do you have issues tracking it? by air or sea?

patience is key. in general, deliveries from cn are inconsistent since the outbreak of covid-19. it could be up to a month; maybe more.

KPrepublic is honestly notorious with slow shipping times. What more when Beijing (where they are supposed to be based) is now under some form of lockdown.

Not sure what stabs you order from them, but, I reckon, re-purchasing them from a local vendor would be a wiser choice, pay a little more, but, you get your build built, now.

Anyone having problem installing Logitech Ghub on their machine? The Ghub installer just stuck on hovering and landing forever.

Opened a support ticket to Logitech but never get a reply.

https://support.logi.com/hc/en-us/community...ing-and-landing

i just did a clean install of w10 2004 build 19041.331 last weekend. ghub is fine.

I also did a clean install of w10 on my Surface Laptop 3, both of i5 and i7 version facing the same issue. Not sure if there is some problem with the pre-loaded Windows.

Old dell laptop with w10 was fine, only the Surface is giving problems.

At long last my mods are (mostly) done.


All switches spring swapped to 67g, bag lubed with Krytox 105. Sliders lubed with Krytox 205. Filmed with TX films.
Foam layer between plate and PCB, foam inside bottom case underneath PCB, top case spray painted.
Stab housings lubed with Krytox 205, wires checked for straightness, lubed with superlube. Attached to plate with PTFE tape to eliminate wobble. PCB band aid modded with cloth band aid and lathered in Superlube.

It is a dream to type on. Sounds wonderful. But the keyboard gods decided to play a cruel joke....

Despite my care during desoldering and soldering, I even did a full tweezer test after desoldering...1 key is not working properly. Luckily it is about the only key(yes I have used Pause/Break before) I don't ever remember using, right alt.

Switch hitter registers one press and TWO ups.


Keyboard tester registers right alt as left ctrl, left alt, right alt, and right ctrl simultaneously.


Switch is fine. Desoldered and tested with multimeter. Same behaviour on both test software with switch removed and using tweezers. If anyone has any suggestions, I might consider fixing it, but for now I'm going to try not to lose my cool and just live with it.

Anyway...in case anyone is curious about the PTFE mod.


Hohoooo, I thought I was so clever. Never seen anyone else do this. Most people stick more band aid pieces in the gap. I tried that and was not satisfied with the stab wobble. I wrapped some PTFE tape around the housing and voila! No more wobble. I invented a new mod!

Not so fast...Side effect of the way I wrapped the tape is that the stabs don't properly latch onto the plate.... So whenever I pull out a stabilized key, the stabs have a tendency to pop up a bit.


Well you just pop them back in before putting the keycap back on.


No big deal. Highly unlikely to pop up during use since you are pressing down on it. Still trying to stay cool. I have a nicely tuned keyboard. Sounds awesome. Let's not dwell on the imperfections ok.

if this is the case it should be related to the hardware, i.e. surface. it's possible that surface can cause incompatibility issues.

come on you know it's a pretty good experience

for the weird key registering issue, i had such incidents when:
1. i over-tightened screws onto the case (tray-mount, so it might cause pressure to the pcb); or
2. when there is too much pressure on pcb from the foams, usually from bottom case; or
3. the pcb had direct contact to metal, and caused short circuit.

as for the stabilizer mod, usually i just put a layer of ptfe tape on the side where the lock is located. the thickness of ptfe tape is 0.25mm. usually it will not move anymore after application. for stabilizer tuning, it's still about making sure the wire is straight, with both tips lubed and pointing at the same angle, and the housings and sliders are lubed.

very nice journey. forget the imperfections, no one is perfect.

i wish u tania !

hi there, am new here with zero knowledge on mechanical keyboards.

Is there any shops in KL people can recommend to test out the range of keyboards switches to know what suits me best?

Can someone recommend me a few budget beginner full-size (with numpad) keyboard to start of with?
perhaps a cheap one, and another slightly pricier one that you think its worth to spend a little more on.
usage for daily work comp, not much a gamer, just casual one so no need super good one, most importantly a nice typing experience

This post has been edited by limtekshi: Jun 27 2020, 03:27 AM

Hi, is there anywhere in lowyat selling Tecware keyboardd? The tecware phantom elite is sold out on the online shopping apps.

Typing experience or modding experience
The typing sure as hell is awesome. It's fully functional even without right alt. That's what keeping me sane and happy with my keeb.

Yeah my plate-foam-PCB sandwich is definitely very tight. I even purposely retightened a few switches by pushing it in while melting the solder joints. Not sure where or how I can release the pressure. Maybe just melt all/most joints and let the pressure push the switch to whatever level. I worry about inconsistent feel and height though.

Trima kasiiih.

I can wholeheartedly recommend the IKBC CD108 non BT edition for just RM279
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.bIMtl

But while browsing Lazada for the link I saw this.
https://s.lazada.com.my/s.bIN3X

Slightly higher end model. Single colour LED backlight. On pre-order for RM1 cheaper.

lyp in kl; digital mall in pj

tecware phantom elite might be ok for you. you can pm quovadis123 for this.

you can also use the group search of mymkb fb group page to look for suggestions (keyword: crowdsourcing), https://www.facebook.com/groups/MalaysiaMechanicalKeyboard/

you can pm quovadis123 for it

both hehe

my best guess is that it's probably the area around the bottom row. (i.e., row 4 and bottom row)

Thanks for the suggestions previously regarding the linear switch.
Been using Topre for a while and finally back to the Cherry Clone game.

KBDFans Pebble built with 62g FFF Switch (Lubed with Krytox 205g0)

Typing Sound
https://youtu.be/M0o0SVe5Xeg

switches made by jwk really hits the scene by storm

Well, tried it and didn't work. Loosened all along the 4 edges and 2 bottom rows. Then on a hunch I removed both Ctrls and LAlt to see if RAlt will behave. No joy.

Tightened everything back up again, and now there's a slight rattle on 1 side of space bar. Then realised I can't remove the stab even with the switch removed because of the foam. Sigh...

My wallet is scared about what I'm going to do tomorrow night when a few units of kbd19x are going on sale.

this has something to do with how they are wired. not sure if you can find the correct matrix that got affected. imo the better bet is to desolder all switches and start over.

i do leave space for a chance to take off plate-mount stabilizers, because i usually screw them up.

to make things easier for self repairs, use true 63/38 solder wires like kester or mechanic, and a good desoldering pump. it helps me a lot especially during the switch desoldering process.

I'm using a generic 63/37. Don't know why it's actually harder to suck up than the factory lead free solder. Maybe it's my soldering technique.

if possible, use true 63/37. it's supposed to be much easier to suck it up. i use 350c, touch the joint with tinned soldering iron for a second or two, then release the primed desoldering pump. just did it just now to fix my backspace on this 60%.