Thanks. I'm not into Cherry switches or testing many switches in general so I'm not very sure.

What do you guys think of ID80 V2?

Will it be inferior to GMMK Pro

On paper it's definitely inferior IMO. Integrated plate vs gasket mount.

Thanks, true also.

Plus the extra foam and polycarb plate for deep thocc lovers.

maybe get both, for different typing experience

i have tried out most of the common keyboard mounting styles listed at https://thomasbaart.nl/2019/04/07/cheat-she...ounting-styles/ (except for that style of plateless mount in the chart) in general, i would say they are all providing different feels and sounds, with their own shares of pros and cons. again, there is no 'the best' imo, and tray-mount is not that bad if further tunings are made.

as of this writing, gasket-mount is the active trend. it's a good time to get them, because vendors have them made available at much cheaper price points. while they are not as robust as those present in highend kits, it's still very good to have them.

i am thinking to get a rk71 as starter. But might want to get different keycaps or switches later on. Is all the keycaps compatible eg hyperx pudding? What about the switches?

it depends on conditions. afaik rk71 is a soldered board. if you are proficient in soldering/desoldering, it's good to go for switch swapping. for key cap swapping, rk71 has key caps that are not fully compatible with standard layouts (check out the keys on the right side of the board), but you might be able to use different profiles, such as xda/dsa. (i guess)

imo for starter, it's better to use hot-swap boards (with kailh/gateron switch sockets, 5-pin switch support, south facing switch orientation), so that it's convenient for you to swap switches on-the-fly. also, use standard layouts if possible, so that there is no funny limits to use different profiles.

Got the ID80 V2 - I'm liking it so far but have not had a chance to use a gasket-mounted keyboard so can't compare.

But if got budget and GMMK Pro too hard to find, perhaps can consider ID80 Crystal instead (I'm sure they will re-release again soon)

I'm using ID80 V1, added the foam top of PCB, but not interested in the bottom plastic cover.
I'm more interested in mixing the switches around, building it mainly for FPS gaming and using it as daily driver.

thanks for the info. is redragon k552 tkl a better choice then?

no idea. maybe you should ask for feedback in mymkb fb group to see if anyone can give you better insights

need help from keychron users. do you guys need wrist rest for k2v2 or k4v2?

bought 3x boxes of glorious panda on a whim, but no keyboard yet lol

Alamak, when did Keys stop selling Krytox 105?

I need it for springs.

wrist rests are optional. i use wrist rest also, but it's optional to me

maybe restocking new is in progress. you can pm him for status

I previously used one for my K2 - its too high causing my wrist to bend.

have any recommendations that are hotswappable but not keychron?

so u dont use wrist rest bcuz its causing u to bend ur wrist?

Wrist rests are to rest your wrist when you aren't typing. When typing, your wrists should be straight and not touching anything(floating).

If you don't have a wrist rest, your options are either keep your wrists floating or put your hands elsewhere.

This post has been edited by niakulah: Apr 17 2021, 04:50 PM

there are plenty of hot-swap boards now, supporting different layouts, plate-mounting styes, and what not. it's really up to your preferences.

i can share what i think is better hot-swap kits:

1. must have kailh/gateron or similar switch sockets; this maximizes support for switches from different brands;
2. must have fully compatible top plate to provide better structural support for the hot-swap board;
3. should have pcb that has 5-pin switch support; this allows the use of 3-pin and 5-pin switches without physical modifications;
4. should have switch south facing orientation (meaning the side of switch for led is facing the user); this helps minimize interference when using cherry profile key caps for asdf row;
5. should provide plate and case foams; these foams are optional. they are handy if you wished to use them in your builds;
6. should have both hot-swap and solderable pcbs, so that you can use them interchangably if you want to. again, this is optional.

the above are just my criteria for good hot-swap kits. it's ok to get any that meets the first two criteria.

i have some hot-swap kits (including kbd67v1, kbd67v2 mkii, tokyo60 r1, z70ultra, mojo60, mojo65, mojo75, drop ctrl), but i just stick to my old first-gen gk64 as test and switch break-in unit mainly.

sounds painful lol just to float ur hands, because my table is quite high and my chair is alrdy at max height with the arm rest touching the table's edge.

besides i do bend my wrist to type and game, thats why keychron is out of the equation right now unless they release lower profile cases.

for reference right now im using ducky one 2 tkl, no wrist rest and bend wrist is comfy but it is low in height.

as for me, who is a beginner, my criteria as of right now is only to get a hotswap 96% keyboard lol. there is a gk96s but reddit says avoid that because software sux,

but comparing gk96s and k4v2, keychron doesnt even have software lol

I feel you bro. So many companies use tables that are high but chairs are low. It's an ergonomic nightmare. At one time I was researching ways to mod my office chair to make it higher. Lol.