Is it not the water pump (like the radiator fan) is controlled by the temp sensor? On high speed, the radiator is cool down by the wind that hit it and therefore the water pump (like the radiator fan) is switched off to prolong its lifespan? Just asking to clear my doubt.

All CVT owner, did you guys aware your temp gauge? It will be normal for 3 bars, when you drive on highway, 110-120, especially morning and night, it will reduce to 2 bars? Wanna collect more info before check with SC. So far i know only 2 people having this issue including me.

so you guys just treat it as "normal" case for the temp gauge or did you guys check with SC before? I will asked them during coming 10k service.

My wild guess is also because the thermostat that using can't react fast enough for this? My main concern is this will impact the fc as ecu might treat low temp and burn more fuel to keep the temp at nominal?

see my attached picture.
this is my FC. From last indicator, i pumped RM74 worth of fuel.
My driving style never exceeds 120km/h and mostly city driving. My RPM are most of the time, between 2000 - 2500 as this range of RPM allows adequate acceleration to the car. Although the picture shows that it hasn't reach the last bar of fuel, but from my experience, around 300km, the fuel indicator will lit, asking me to refuel. If RM74 runs for 300km, that's about RM0.25 for every single KM travelled. That's actually worse than my 2.0L 2008 Lancer GT. The second picture 7.7L/100km, although the figure is very good for me, but it's contradict to my actual spending and experience. The average FC is not accurate for my case.

There are 2 possible answer to this in my mind now:
1. ECU is not properly tweaked for FC
2. Power to weight ratio for Persona is bad because 1600cc need to pull a 1.2 tonne body. The more city driving (start and stop), the more fuel it burns.

It's very different from what Proton had advertised.

By the way, this is my Premium CVT

Old persona are almost the same fc but u need to pay for the extra 10liter fuel. My std cvt best can go around 380km only 80% city driving from full tank to fuel light up. Average 7.3l/100km. Here are some tips i like to share maybe can help fellow cvt owner for better saving:

- Pump the front tyre 220 psi back 200 psi (70kg driver and 60kg front passenger). If back got passengers or luggage then back add 10~20 psi. Check tyre pressure every 2 weeks.

- Off the aircond when starting the car cold, jalan first and on the aircond when temperature indicator got 2 bar. Lower or off the aircond if not that hot.

- After release the brake from a full stop, let the car move a bit first before accelerate gradually. The key of cvt to save fuel are u need to control the gas pedal well at slow driving. If u press hard the gas pedal at wrong timing, u will tend to bring up the rpm  unnecessarily instead of moving the car faster.

Best fuel brand i tested is petronas 95 as it's give better power at low torque.

Those digital fuel range/fuel consumption estimator will never be 100% correct but the discrepancies wont be very obvious. In my opinion 7.7L/100km for city driving isnt that bad because every car will makan minyak during jam and i think 2000-2500 is abit heavy footed for me. Try and just hold the revs below 2k and let the car climb and i think its just that the fuel tank in the persona is really small with only 40L of fuel that makes it feel that the car makan minyak. Take the benz E200 2014 facelift for example and i know its like comparing between apples and oranges but just bear with me on this, the car can achieve 5.8l/100 km if driven at around 80kmh ish but when its super jam it can also go up to crazy 14L/100km. But the fuel tank is around 80L and highway driving itself the car is capable of doing 1k km of range. My point here is that 7.7L/100km for traffic jam/ city driving is not that bad and the fuel tank is just too small. Just my 2 cents     

There are 2 thermostat, mechanical thermostat controlling the water flow into engine, and electrical thermo sensor controlling the radiator fan spin on off... I believe on highway the thermo sensor already shut off the radiator fan when Aircond cut off, but the mechanical thermostat might having lower temp, says 71-82'c， it still allowing water flow, so you observe lower temp during highway drive.

There are 2 thermostat, mechanical thermostat controlling the water flow into engine, and electrical thermo sensor controlling the radiator fan spin on off... I believe on highway the thermo sensor already shut off the radiator fan when Aircond cut off, but the mechanical thermostat might having lower temp, says 71-82'c， it still allowing water flow, so you observe lower temp during highway drive.

If I can really get 7.7L/100km I will be very happy lo.
I know the meter cluster is showing 7.7 but it's contradicting with my actually spending. In reality is like 12L/100km

But these few days I have tried driving below 2000rpm and it really helps to squeeze another 50km out from the fuel tank.
I guess this is something that need you accept

Anyone know how to open this thing? I saw got one screw there for me to open.

If I can really get 7.7L/100km I will be very happy lo.
I know the meter cluster is showing 7.7 but it's contradicting with my actually spending. In reality is like 12L/100km

But these few days I have tried driving below 2000rpm and it really helps to squeeze another 50km out from the fuel tank.
I guess this is something that need you accept

I think a car only have 1 thermostat. =p. Sensor and thermostat are different. Sensor read the coolant temp and send info to ECU and did some control over fuel injection or fan Etc. if the temp gauge show not norminal, so it burn more fuel to keep engine hot?

It seen the thermostat have not do it jobs, I did have xp with my old car before, after I remove a thermostat, my temp gauge can still reach nominal temp, when I speed up, the temp gauge will be low again. I guess ECU also not did it job to compensate that? Hmmm. Confusing

Good feedback.

My long held theory is that the strong wind buffing the radiator in particular and the engine block in general is more efficient in dispersing the heat generated thus causing the temp bar to drop.

Maybe the engine temp tolerance range is within those 2 to 3 bars thus nothing to worry about? Maybe the temp gauge just indicate the radiator temp and not about the internal combustion chamber which should be controlled by spark plugs?

As an owner, I too would like to know more about the temp gauge.

Thinking on doing 10K service in Mutiara Damansara SC, anyone have experience dealing with them. I'm trying to fix the rattling noise and also some minor issues with them.

Could you kindly ask the SA about the Temp Bar dropping from 3 to 2 when on high speed. Will it hurt the engine?

Everlasting love if you can report back to us.