CVT premium here. My FC is about 12.5im/l 100% highway. Daily travel 100km++ around 120-140km/h

Good or bad?

Wow. That's really bad.
I guess the sound is because u carry the key down and close the door?

All CVT owner, did you guys aware your temp gauge? It will be normal for 3 bars, when you drive on highway, 110-120, especially morning and night, it will reduce to 2 bars? Wanna collect more info before check with SC. So far i know only 2 people having this issue including me.

so you guys just treat it as "normal" case for the temp gauge or did you guys check with SC before? I will asked them during coming 10k service.

My wild guess is also because the thermostat that using can't react fast enough for this? My main concern is this will impact the fc as ecu might treat low temp and burn more fuel to keep the temp at nominal?

I think a car only have 1 thermostat. =p. Sensor and thermostat are different. Sensor read the coolant temp and send info to ECU and did some control over fuel injection or fan Etc. if the temp gauge show not norminal, so it burn more fuel to keep engine hot?

It seen the thermostat have not do it jobs, I did have xp with my old car before, after I remove a thermostat, my temp gauge can still reach nominal temp, when I speed up, the temp gauge will be low again. I guess ECU also not did it job to compensate that? Hmmm. Confusing

For my case, almost 95% Highway driving. 14.5km/l while cruising around 110-130km/h where Eco light on. No suddenly pick up. 11.5km/l if cruising at 130-140km/h. Some where in between is around 12km++/l. Not all good not so bad I guess. But tank too small, should have at least 45l instead of 40.

Yes agree. every items for measurement have it tolerance range. Usually engine operation temp should be at around 90-100C. Every thermostat should have marking stated the temp value where it start to open. Usually 75-85C if not mistaken.

the problem now is why can't they set the 2 bar to 3 bar if really the temp is in acceptance case? It should have a standard that from what reading to what reading is nominal value and this standard should apply to all the car outside the market I guess? Seriously this really worry me after I reading below. Just wanna collect more info and reason to question the SC. Else they won't layan u

From Internet
The thermostat is there primarily to help the engine warm up in the morning. As we discussed in a previous article, the engine is designed to operate at it's operating temperature. Most engine wear occurs when the engine is cold, once it's warmed up there is very little wear in a healthy engine. Thus, we definitely want to run a thermostat to allow the engine to warm up as quickly as possible until it reaches our desired and designed operating temperature.

http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/0...-the-advantage/

Yeah. If the temp gauge varying to indicate the actual temp is great. As least I know it is at designed operating temp. So we need to know 2 bar is indicate how much. 70c I don't think is high enough. As normal operating temp should be 90-100C. 20C is huge I guess. Imagine u drive on highway for few hours non stop and operating at 70C, you sure it won't hurt?

How about Conti MC5? Price should be slightly higher den cc6 I guess. P

Thanks for the info man. So which means even the bar drop to 2 during your driving from usj to puchong is around 75-78c reading?

By the way, any daiko here get any after market arm rest? Any recommendation?

Just worry it might hit 70C? With 7 bars indicators, the step ratio should be wide enough, wonder why can't they fit in to the nominal bar.

Yeah.. thats worried me alot. I have been read through many temp related post previously due to car overtemp previously for my other car. Thats why I'm quite sensitive with this.

Wow, means they did fine tune something in ECU, but after you service, it reset back to default.

So only first one is useful?? Anyone try to pair HU with iphone? while using waze, is that possible to listen the radio? I try pair but it didn't speak when I in radio mode. When in phone mode, I can't listen radio >.<

If you wanna be a drift king then can off it else on it to avoid being slipped.

I encounter once when have 2 adult at the back, when stop at the slope at car park when jam, it fall back. Scare us..

My car also having crog crog sound when tekan brake, maybe have since day1, not really pay much attention.

I think rev limiter around 3k abit low gua. I thought common car should have rev limiter around 4k RPM during idle?.

Will try tonight and let you know.

300rpm is low. engine supposing nearly off during that time. or you means drop 300-500 rpm from 2k? means around 1.5krpm?

btw, what for to test #2?

This post has been edited by firegal: Mar 14 2017, 10:40 AM

1) I did try out, it will cut out the fuel when reach around 2.8k rpm.

2) same as you. I think you means it drop around 500rpm from 2k rpm.

I did try with other car, rev till 4K without fuel cut off. Or CVT design to be this low? 2.8k rpm. Hmm

I did did exactly same with with other cars, no drops I could see. Our compressor really heavy load. No wonder fc so bad. Need to try off Aircon and test the fc. Lolx

Not really feel jerking. I guess maybe u quite heavy footer, the throttle respond abit laggy I would say. Try to press harder after awhile will be better I guess. Not green light den full press to the btm. Hehe