For those who have rattling dashboard sound , just buy the rubber from lazada and install it yourself . It's just rm25. I got mine and installed within 5min. So far so good

In lazada , search for the rubber using this keyword :
Dashboard Rubber Seal

When I install the rubber , I can feel the plastic at the edge of the dashboard is really soft and it's like hollow at the center. I found out because I need to push the rubber using my finger into the gap and surprisingly it's like very easy to go in...

So far the result after install and drive for some time.: The rattling definitely lesser now. But like you said , I also heard like there is some wire vibrating and touching the inner of the head unit which caused a slight rattling sound but the sound is definitely lesser now. Think the rubber did it's magic but the rattling sound from inside the head unit is not bothering me.

This post has been edited by cheeshong: Feb 24 2017, 12:01 AM

I don't know any of you has this problem
After my first 1k service , the car drinks petrol like water.
My FC is very bad. It's like rm80 can only give me 300-320km only before it start showing me the orange color indicator

I am sending my car to sc on Monday to have them check on the ECU.

By the way, any sc that allows us to bring own engine lub?

This post has been edited by cheeshong: Feb 24 2017, 12:06 AM

City drive 70percent. Mostly 60kmh to 90kmh
When I got the car new, the FC is far better than this.

I see. Any 3rd party proton service centre that can recommend? Will this give proton excuse to void our warranty if service there?

This post has been edited by cheeshong: Feb 24 2017, 12:31 AM

Thanks!

try do this adapation process. Need to do a few times (3-5 times) as describe in the article

http://service.punchpowertrain.com/product...il1e/id/79.html


This post has been edited by cheeshong: Feb 24 2017, 12:09 PM

Check the first page for the CVT adaptation procedures. Hope it helps

Bros, dashboard rattling issues, how-to-fix, please see here

https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/3925053/+500
Post #513

copied from the post for easier referencing

For head unit crackling sound especially during hot day can try to DIY this.

Insert 2 flat screw driver underneath and slowly pry it out. Apply force towards you and it will pop out.


Once pop out becareful not to pull the whole thing out as there is a cable connected to the front panel. Detach it.



Tape the surrounding area circled with electrical tape.




Some ppl who had rattling sound inside may open up to check. Mine no rattle so i didnt check further.

Once you're done. Push it back to snap back. Remember to put back the connector before snap back the panel.

This post has been edited by cheeshong: Feb 28 2017, 06:10 PM

Our car sounds like train when going up to 140kmh. Engine sound is really loud. And so far Max I tried is 160kmh only. Anyone hit 180 before?

This post has been edited by cheeshong: Feb 28 2017, 08:16 PM

I remember the salesman told me is lifetime warranty.
And I also saw the poster on the wall at sg besi showroom

Must be super loud . Lol

Actually happen to my car too. I tried to calculate the price per km and compare to the dashboard liter per km , I found out they don't match. So I thought my car fc is bad. Then I went to sg besi 3s Centre and ask them to check. The foreman there also notice something wrong after checking. He told me seems like the sensor not very accurate. They added a bottle of fuel treatment for me and ask me to try again for a week then see if this has improved. If not, then go back and they need to open the dashboard or the fuel sensor.

So I think it's the sensor not giving right reading.

by default = on and nothing will show
to off, press and hold, an indicator will show on your dashboard.

Because you opted for a semi synthetic engine oil.
Semi Synthetic engine oil has shorter working lifespan.
If you use fully synthetic, then it's 10,000km

it's true. But practically, is not a good practice actually.
First thing, the oil is inside our engine, noone knows the oil's condition after x km of run. You can't drain and see, you can't suck it up and see, the only thing you can see the oil is from the dipstick. As the engine oil is the only lubricant that maintains the engine's lifetime, it's a better practice to change it earlier rather than using until the life span limit of the engine oil. If you want to take care of your car's heart, you are recommended to do oil change before even reaching the service mileage. For example , 500km before your next service date. Some say rugi to service earlier but long term, you prolong your engine's lifespan.

why say 10w40 is "older" engine oil?
10w40 and 10w30 different in the viscosity. There's no "new" or "old" meaning here.

New cars should use thinner viscosity, preferably 5w30 / 10w30

see my attached picture.
this is my FC. From last indicator, i pumped RM74 worth of fuel.
My driving style never exceeds 120km/h and mostly city driving. My RPM are most of the time, between 2000 - 2500 as this range of RPM allows adequate acceleration to the car. Although the picture shows that it hasn't reach the last bar of fuel, but from my experience, around 300km, the fuel indicator will lit, asking me to refuel. If RM74 runs for 300km, that's about RM0.25 for every single KM travelled. That's actually worse than my 2.0L 2008 Lancer GT. The second picture 7.7L/100km, although the figure is very good for me, but it's contradict to my actual spending and experience. The average FC is not accurate for my case.

There are 2 possible answer to this in my mind now:
1. ECU is not properly tweaked for FC
2. Power to weight ratio for Persona is bad because 1600cc need to pull a 1.2 tonne body. The more city driving (start and stop), the more fuel it burns.

It's very different from what Proton had advertised.

By the way, this is my Premium CVT

This post has been edited by cheeshong: Mar 9 2017, 04:03 PM


Attached thumbnail(s)

Most of the time, just me alone driving, max also 1 more passenger.
Acceleration for my car is very good i would say. Just revving to 2000 is enough to pull the car from standstill to 40km/h which is very enough in city. Stepping in a little more to 2200 - 2300rpm, the car accelerates to 60-80 very quickly. I actually think the acceleration is very smooth and fast so the driving pleasure is great.
My boot is empty, just a pair of shoes so car load wise, shouldn't be a problem.
My weight is just 68kg so i really couldn't think of other thing else other than the PWR

If full load, I can feel the car a bit suffering but still ok. I guess that's normal.

This is a good car, but the FC is like 2.0 car...

This post has been edited by cheeshong: Mar 9 2017, 08:26 PM