After my first experience of that, now I turn the cooler left and right first before I pull it out. No more pulling the CPU out.

careful... i got a friend slipped his grip when twisting and the damage is far worse... he twisted half the pins off.

For me, i press down and push sideways (like how you delid)

This post has been edited by Bonchi: Jul 22 2021, 06:05 PM

Yes you are right. You get 0 back EMF in stationary, and start to generate as soon as it start to rotate and increase proportional until reach equilibrium.
This is why inrush current is highest when you 1st turn ON any motor application.

The formula is motor current I = (V - Back EMF)/R Winding Resistance, from here you can know that when back EMF is reduce, current (I) will increase provided V and R is constant here.
but NO you can't calculate it because the back EMF depends on the motor parameter such as winding, no. of turns, no.of pole pair and magnetic flux which is a proprietary design parameter for each different motor and for sure it is not disclosed by manufacturer themselves.
So just understand the theory behind will do.

But anyway, no need to worry about speed reduction due to dust, it will reduce but definitely not by half, most probably within 100rpm range only.

This post has been edited by coolkwc: Jul 22 2021, 06:13 PM

Before you shutdown and take out the cooler, just remember to fire up the prime95 stress test for 20 minutes to cook the thermal paste such that it become soften.

There is no go back to air cooler after I tasted the water cooling 15 years ago. One of the hassle is to clean dust accumulated in CPU air cooler and the surrounding VRM components on the mobo.

The fan jammed? Otherwise it shouldn't overheat.

Nowadays my CPU doesn't get stucked with it. I usually do it after I use the PC.

Actually some pastes will bake at high heat (80C) and dry up, and it will be cemented (kryonaut is one example). When that happens you will need a screw driver to pry the cpu off from the heatsink.

Damn, i just use Kryonaut on my CPU cooler :lol

I'm still stick with water cooling, just my DDC pump produced some weird noise so no choice have to dismantle the system and might as well do the whole cleaning, after all it was the pump rotor wear off, RM320 gone



This post has been edited by llk: Jul 22 2021, 10:27 PM

Kryonaut also degrades quite quickly in comparison to other pastes. 1 year is about its lifespan.

Usually just use NT-H2 now a days. More expensive, but doesn't suffer from degradation and pump out issue like Kryonaut does yet performs just as well.

I'm trying Kingpin KPx and Kryonaut Extreme. Will let you know if they degrade after a year.

want long lasting can try Honeywell PTM7950SP or PTM7900SP too.

https://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r....id=631006993629

Why use that when Noctua NTH2 exists?

How well do other thermal pastes fare against NT-H2 if I wanted to avoid using Kryonaut? E.g. Gelid GC Extreme, Arctic MX-5, etc. Planning to swap coolers with an AIO on my end.

just choose any thermal paste that you mentioned.

as long the cpu cooler is rated for your cpu max boosted tdp, 3 degree plus minus doesn't affect much la…

I'm more interested to see how little I can avoid a loss of thermal efficiency when switching from Kryonaut to another thermal paste, while avoiding Kryonaut's issues with longevity. Repasting my RTX 3080 with Kryonaut gave me an increase in clockspeeds, and swapping my 5800X from NT-H1 to Kryonaut gave it around 2-3C more headroom.

then better take NT-H2 to try lo…since got feedback better than mx5 and kryonaut.

https://forums.evga.com/m/tm.aspx?m=3230907&p=3

I have both, have used both.

NTH2 is better because it doesn't degrade as quickly as Kryonaut, also won't suffer from pump out issue (this is an issue for Zen CPUs because the IHS is convex). I have used Kryonaut since 2014 and my experience is that you need to change them out in about ~1 year or so. NTH2 has been more than 1 year in my 3900x system, still hasn't suffered any degradation. On my 5900x system, I'm still using the Kryonaut on it but these few weeks I have noticed higher peak temps. No, it's not because of weather affecting ambient temp either because my room temp is always controlled at 22c whenever PC is turned on.

That said, they both perform exactly the same temps wise when both are freshly applied. 0.5c difference is NOT a difference ya.

Ah, exactly what I wanted to know. Only compared NT-H1 to Kryonaut and did see a temp difference with that. If NT-H2 has no discernible difference I guess I can use that.