powerzone good. but price at 460. mfa also more or less dat number. rm400+-

thanks albertb for the link.
also appreciate your tips...davidke20

thought just change the dashboard if cheap.

but now looks like have to diy 

those epoxy glue really good? can really hold those cracks together?

btw your dashboard looks well kept 

me and him only, tagging you so maybe can arrange another session

BTW= anyone here had installed any high lift cams ?

yeah powerzone extractor is proven stuff but if you want to feel more difference take the opportunity to change end to end exhaust. put one large s flow at the end enough, find a silent one cap ayam also ok. piping 1.8 inch should be fine. midbox no need la.. save money

some people say straight flow better but noisy, s-flow quieter but sluggish acceleration... i'm confused.  Can clarify ?

But i went to an exhaust shop today, an old uncle also recommend s-flow for pickup.

Today try survey extractor in my hometown....the shop i went got a 'cap ayam' 421 extractor for iswara about RM150 inc. installation, without flexible pipe aka 'nenas'. the bends look like pressed, not a mandrel. nope.   going to survey more shops....if no choice, fork out RM300 for mfa's extractor. 

Extra question...
Regarding radiator, 2morrow will change timing belt and water pump....wanna flush my rusty radiator....but before or after water pump replacement?
(Also summon Quazacolt    )

too sudden stop?
if require better tire grip/traction, may consider something else other than c drive2.
am using c drive 2 and to be honest it isn't really that suitable for spirited driving however for *most situations* it is adequate, decent comfort and some lower rolling resistance (LRR) also.

or, anticipate better/keep distance. or just having better "Aku brake sendiri" abs
which comes to your brake fluid, if it's contaminated (oxidized, having air pockets etc) it will respond very poorly and especially when you mentioned "faded", which may not be brake fade and it's just the calipers/servo jammed/unresponsive.

do check your caliper checked as well or get it serviced.

As for rotors, i used to have cross drilled/slotted, they eventually cracked at the drills.
Personally they don't offer that much more performance improvements over solid disc, however with just the words of "performance"/"motorsports", they are easily 3 times the pricing of normal rotor replacements just to have some drills/slots added.
They do however have less structural rigidity (due to the cross drill throughs), and no matter how tame (or aggressive) you drive they will eventually develop hairline cracks from the drilled holes. Just a matter of time/luck.
Solid discs will obviously fare better durability since it's a solid one piece, not even vents for our iswara stock rotors anyways.

comparatively, i was on IMP x drilled/slotted rotors and they were rm300+ almost rm400, while the current Shoji oem/aftermarket replacement was like rm110-150 ish iinm.
If your current stock rotors are thinned out/very old (maybe can find a mechanic can have thickness measured or just seek second/multiple opinions from various workshops), then can consider a cheap brembo(not italy ya, just cheapo china oem ones lol)/trw/shoji stock (solid disc) replacement.

i gotten my ebc greenstuff  for iswara at £46.33 (GBP) pricing.
obviously it is much more expensive than aftermarket replacements like Bosch/Bendix, like 3-5 times the price assuming they are around rm60-100 ish, but for something like brakes, i prefer not to compromise.
Not to mention i have a preference to lower brake dust pads, if that's not a requirement, can consider something cheaper like EBC ultimax (or some called black).

Yours a sedan or hatchback?

Possible source of the sound could be from the air vents which are holes in the panel to allow  suction of stale air to the outside using venturi effect. These holes bypass the door seals.

Do a test by temporarily taping up these holes and see if got any difference. After that remove the covering tapes as these holes are important for ventilation.

Hi Albert,

Does that mean that there's no way to eliminate the wind noise if it indeed comes from the (shown) air vents?

From my experience with changing absorber of previous car (also with trailing arms but no ARB), in addition to the jack for removing the wheel, the arm need to be supported by a second jack, or by using bricks or a block of wood. Otherwise the spring will drop off when you remove the absorber. The 1st jack or 2nd jack need to be adjusted to compress the spring to the correct height to fit the absorber mounting bolt holes accurately, especially gas-filled absorber is difficult to compress by hand. So maybe the ARB is not affected in this case. You are having additional ARB to the original factory fitted one? Where is it attached to, does it affect the absorber?

I remember the main problem for DIY is the absorber mounting nut cannot be loosened especially with the rust & dirt, need to use air operated impact wrench.

um, if you only hunting for extractor, i guess can try powerzone...
everyone singing praises for their extractors haha

jedi_master sifu please comment

KYB gas/oil both for iswara also
Sachs for kancil however cant comment for iswara as never used on iswara lol

All Saga/Iswara/Fiore came with standard anti roll bar attached between the sway arm. Not necessarily to detach stock ARB to change damper/spring. I believe what others mean is whether they need to detach their ULARCACING ARB.

My second iswara LMST has just changed absorber. APM biasa mia. Changing steps seemed to be simple as above instructions.
KYB bit expensive? But I guess is KYB standard right?
Yeap ada Ular Cacing Arb kat saya mia Iswara. Tak tau scare workshop broke my welding bracket nia.. Absorber was due long ago tapi takut tax nanti le...

I am not sure, as I have not tried modifying the venting devices. I noticed that the LMST has wind noise close to the vents area and that the vents are more visible though the door gap than the Iswara. The Iswara do not have this kind of noise, so I suspect the vents are the culprit.

Regarding the swimming pool in the boot, other than the suspected windscreen seal and
boot weather seal, another culprit is the tail-lights seal. I have the same swimming pool and I did 2 things, and the results are so far so good. 

1) For the weather seal I washed off the dirt and grime and applied grease in the mating
groove to stop capillary action. (The seal do not seems to be glued, so I just pressed it in)

2) For the tail-lights I applied silicone sealant over the original seal.

Thanks for the pointers Albert.

I'm trying to cut down the amount of wind noise on the old Iswara A/B, and never thought about the vents. It's something that I'll most definitely check out when I get the chance.

Yea, it's possibly the windscreen seal, which if it is, might (or might) be a real pain in the bum. Does that mean it needs to go into the windscreen shop for a fix?
1). I pulled the rubber, and tho it looks pretty good on the outside, the insides were pretty cruddy - caked with dirt, crumbly and possibly even home to a caterpillar. I've cleaned the channels once pretty well, and am about to do it again to make it as close to perfect as possible.

I've got a new seal, so I'll be putting that in. I've already given it a light cleaning with soap and water by running a scotchbrite pad over it before rinsing it. I'm thinking about using silicone spray instead of grease to counter the capillary action - what do you think?

2). I was thinking that too. I'll probably head over to the hardware store tomorrow to get some silicone sealant - thinking RTV sealant would suffice.

The best effect for dashbaord bond is dismantle it, then apply epoxy resin from the INSIDE of the crack. This way you wouldn't have to deal with those bits and lumps on the dashbaord surface after being patched. Once applied, make sure you apply enough support for the dashbaord, incase if the plastic change shape then it spoil all your work. Reason for using epoxy resin is due to the material can stand high heat. If you have the time, after you've applied epoxy to the cracked site, put an extra plastic plate onto of the epoxy as an extra support and glue the surrounding of that piece of patching plastics. That whole area will become a full reinforcement and guaranteed will not crack again.



After enough experience with this, consistently applying tyre shine/silicone base polisher, the entire dashboard had turned into POWDER! *My point is, tyre shine is for tyre! Not your bloody dashboard!!!

No necessarily to remove the UlarCacing ARB for damper replacement. Regardless, magician will have to double jack 1 side(1 is to jack the sway arm to compress the spring, another is to lift the car up) of the car before removing the damper then finally the spring. Hence, with or without the UlarCacing ARB, the way to do remains the same.

As for your worry, if jacking up the car 1 side would rendered the break of welding bracket...I can't imagine how you went through a 90 degeee sharp turn 60kph corner at Sg.Besi interchange Mahameru Might as well find out it breaks during damper change, rather than it breaks during your attack Still can't brain how they came up with such ingenius idea of so called ARB that required welding to make a braket Might as well get a steel bar weld it directly on the sway arms

Heh? Quazacolt

Extra question...
Regarding radiator, 2morrow will change timing belt and water pump....wanna flush my rusty radiator....but before or after water pump replacement?
(Also summon Quazacolt    )

I don’t do spirited driving too often - I promise and I’m not in denial (at least I don’t think i am). I’m more of a smooth drive enjoyer, if you know what i mean. I do a lot of long distance driving tho, usually at the speed limit, but I have tested the car out on quiet stretches to be honest.

The C-drive 2s seem alright, at least for now, and they’re pretty decent on wet too. LOUD AS HELL tho. Sigh.

Since the last post, I’ve checked the callipers, changed the rotors and upgraded to high performance brake pads (Bendix Mountain Kings), and the braking is much much better.

Hey you’ve spent a pretty penny on your ride. She must drive (and brake) like a dream!

igster

PS. Thanks heaps for the advice

KYB bit expensive? But I guess is KYB standard right?

No necessarily to remove the UlarCacing ARB for damper replacement. Regardless, magician will have to double jack 1 side(1 is to jack the sway arm to compress the spring, another is to lift the car up) of the car before removing the damper then finally the spring. Hence, with or without the UlarCacing ARB, the way to do remains the same.

As for your worry, if jacking up the car 1 side would rendered the break of welding bracket...I can't imagine how you went through a 90 degeee sharp turn 60kph corner at Sg.Besi interchange Mahameru Might as well find out it breaks during damper change, rather than it breaks during your attack Still can't brain how they came up with such ingenius idea of so called ARB that required welding to make a braket Might as well get a steel bar weld it directly on the sway arms

Heh? Quazacolt