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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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davidke20
post Jan 14 2015, 09:20 PM

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QUOTE(chrisstse @ Jan 14 2015, 09:02 PM)
Ok, i dried the car liao....today got rain... my car back part is exposed to rain. let me see if tomorrow still got soaking or not. If got can confirm the rubber gone dy right?
*
He was asking you try to clean the rubber and plonk back 1st baru observe ler whistling.gif
Albert B
post Jan 14 2015, 09:49 PM

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QUOTE(chrisstse @ Jan 14 2015, 09:02 PM)
Ok, i dried the car liao....today got rain... my car back part is exposed to rain. let me see if tomorrow still got soaking or not. If got can confirm the rubber gone dy right?
*
Not 100% confirmed yet is the rubber seal. Water entry is usually due to the boot seal, or
tail-lights seal gap, or both. Need some detective work to narrow down the cause. If you can
see the water trail inside the boot it will help - see if got moisture under the boot seal or
at the tail-lights. Otherwise you might end up spending money for a new boot lining and later
find the culprit is the tail-light.

In my case, it was both : the tail-light seal was leaking, plus the boot door lining was having
capillary action. I applied sealant to the tail-lights and also clean/oiled the lining (without
buying a new lining), so far so good, no signs of water in the boot after rain.
chrisstse
post Jan 14 2015, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 14 2015, 09:49 PM)
Not 100% confirmed yet is the rubber seal. Water entry is usually due to the boot seal, or
tail-lights seal gap, or both. Need some detective work to narrow down the cause. If you can
see the water trail inside the boot it will help - see if got moisture under the boot seal or 
at the tail-lights. Otherwise you might end up spending money for a new boot lining and later
find the culprit is the tail-light.

In my case, it was both : the tail-light seal was leaking, plus the boot door lining was having
capillary action. I applied sealant to the tail-lights and also clean/oiled the lining (without
buying a new lining), so far so good, no signs of water in the boot after rain.
*
Thanks for the reminder, I will check both sides, but fingers cross it's not leaking at all... too pity my BRIM wants to go for the car... already spend a lot on it.... cry.gif cry.gif cry.gif
delsoo
post Jan 14 2015, 10:26 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 13 2015, 10:33 PM)
Check and see other signal lights, could be 1 of them fries. Turn signal bulb if colored orange tinted is RM8, uncolored is RM2.
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front , back and at the meter there d blink rate abnormal
delsoo
post Jan 14 2015, 10:34 PM

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IMO , the prettiest saga (before saga blm ) was iswara 2003 se edition. i dont like the design of the saga after that and before saga blm .
davidke20
post Jan 14 2015, 11:07 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 14 2015, 10:26 PM)
front , back and at the meter there d blink rate abnormal
*
It's either 1 or more of your bulb KO, otherwise is the signal relay. I was asking you to check whether all the lights are up when you put hazard light?

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yadea
post Jan 15 2015, 09:36 AM

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I noticed my Proton Saga started developing problems yesterday and seems to be getting worst. When traveling over bumpy road i can hear a "krak" sound somewhere either from between drivers door and rear passengers door or from the wheel area. Today when driving over bumps at around 25-30 kmph then also can hear. Also noticed once when I turn round corner then change gear then heard the sound again(probably due to body swing). Last night and this morning I tried bouncing my car at the right boot area but there was no sound. What could be the problem?
Thanks.
Albert B
post Jan 15 2015, 06:05 PM

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QUOTE(yadea @ Jan 15 2015, 09:36 AM)
I noticed my Proton Saga started developing problems yesterday and seems to be getting worst. When traveling over bumpy road i can hear a "krak" sound somewhere either from between drivers door and rear passengers door or from the wheel area. Today when driving over bumps at around 25-30 kmph then also can hear. Also noticed once when I turn round corner then change gear then heard the sound again(probably due to body swing). Last night and this morning I tried bouncing my car at the right boot area but there was no sound. What could be the problem?
Thanks.
*
I actually had this problem too, exactly as you described. Sound like the door or seats.

I removed the seats, oiled the metal rods/springs, padded the contact surfaces of the bodywork, could not trace where exactly is problem. Opened the door paneling and checked - found nothing. Sprayed lubricant on where the rear springs meet the suspension parts. Still the sound persists.

I suspect the rear axle. Was thinking of listening to the outside through open window.

Then after a couple of months the sound mysteriously disappeared - all was quiet again.

===edit===
For my case, the sound developed immediately after I replaced the exhaust muffler & piping due to corrosion holes. So I thought the sound was from the exhaust system brackets, but I shook the thing hoping to get sound, but it was quiet.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 15 2015, 06:19 PM


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delsoo
post Jan 15 2015, 09:00 PM

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guys, can someone explain to me what is torque and horsepower. After googling , i found out that torque determine the time to get to the certain speed while horsepower keeps the speed..Correct me if i am wrong. I found that i dont have to change the gear so frequently of my iswara 2003 se model when i am slowing down compared to the 1996 model. Is it because of better torque or horsepower of the car?
yadea
post Jan 15 2015, 09:32 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 15 2015, 09:00 PM)
I found that i dont have to change the gear so frequently of my iswara 2003 se model  when i am slowing down compared to the 1996 model. Is it because of better torque or horsepower of the car?
*
engine braking
Albert B
post Jan 15 2015, 10:11 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 15 2015, 09:00 PM)
guys, can someone explain to me what is torque and horsepower. After googling , i found out that torque determine the time to get to the certain speed while horsepower keeps the speed..Correct me if i am wrong. I found that i dont have to change the gear so frequently of my iswara 2003 se model  when i am slowing down compared to the 1996 model. Is it because of better torque or horsepower of the car?
*
Torque is leverage, measured in Newton-metre, pound-foot etc. For example, when you tighten the
bolt using spanner, torque that you applied is your applied force x the spanner length. It is independent of speed.

Horsepower is another name for power which is energy expenditure per unit time. measured in
joules per sec i.e. Watts

The above 2 concepts are related.
Torque x rotational speed = power (kW) or horsepower (hp)
(one horsepower = 0.746 kW)

So in the spanner example above, power depends on how fast you turn the spanner, even if the torque remains the same.

Yes torque determines how much you can accelerate the car, and so is horsepower which not only
accelerates but at what speed at that time. They are not really independent stuff, just what
kind of measurements are involved. Horsepower depends on torque AND speed at any one time.

TECHNICAL STUFF:

Torque of 4G13 engine is 109 Nm @ 4000 rpm (measured at crankshaft).
1st gear ratio = 3.363, final drive gear ratio = 4.322
The gearbox thus reduces the 4000 rpm to 275 rpm while increasing torque to 1584 Nm.

Radius of tire 175/70R13 = 0.288m,
Since torque = force x radius arm, you can calculate the pushing force to be
1584 / 0.288 = 5509 N which is equivalent to 561 kg force.
This means a force equivalent to 561 kg is pushing your car forward in gear 1 at 4000 rpm.

The power that generated at the engine = Torque x rotational speed
= 109 x 4000 x 2 x 3.142 /60 W = 45,664W = 45.664 kW = 61 hp approx.
This is the amount of energy extracted from burning petrol per sec and translated to engine
shaft output.

The power mentioned here is the same thing as in your household appliance like 2000W kettle,
50W lamp etc.

Torque can be increased or decreased by way of the gearbox. Power remains nearly same, i.e.
reduced slightly by frictional losses passing throught the drive chain.

At gear 1 & 4000 rpm, the speed is 30 km/h. The road friction & wind resistance is about
17.8kg, so the balance from the 561-17.8 = 543.2 kilos of force suppled at the wheel is to
accelerate the car.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 15 2015, 10:29 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 16 2015, 12:34 AM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 15 2015, 06:05 PM)
For my case, the sound developed immediately after I replaced the exhaust muffler & piping due to corrosion holes. So I thought the sound was from the exhaust system brackets, but I shook the thing hoping to get sound, but it was quiet.
*
try shaking it more drastically, up/down/front/back.

i've had my share of exhaust woes as well doh.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Jan 16 2015, 12:37 AM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 15 2015, 10:11 PM)
Torque is leverage, measured in Newton-metre, pound-foot etc. For example, when you tighten the
bolt using spanner, torque that you applied is your applied force x the spanner length. It is independent of speed.

Horsepower is another name for power which is energy expenditure per unit time. measured in
joules per sec i.e. Watts

The above 2 concepts are related.
Torque x rotational speed  = power (kW) or horsepower (hp)
(one horsepower  = 0.746 kW)

So in the spanner example above, power depends on how fast you turn the spanner, even if the torque remains the same.

Yes torque determines how much you can accelerate the car, and so is horsepower which not only
accelerates but at what speed at that time. They are not really independent stuff, just what
kind of measurements are involved. Horsepower depends on torque AND speed at any one time.

TECHNICAL STUFF:

Torque of 4G13 engine is 109 Nm @ 4000 rpm (measured at crankshaft).
1st gear ratio = 3.363, final drive gear ratio = 4.322
The gearbox thus reduces the 4000 rpm to 275 rpm while increasing torque to 1584 Nm.

Radius of tire 175/70R13 = 0.288m,
Since torque = force x radius arm, you can calculate the pushing force to be
1584 / 0.288 = 5509 N which is equivalent to 561 kg force.
This means a force equivalent to 561 kg is pushing your car forward in gear 1 at 4000 rpm.

The power that generated at the engine = Torque x rotational speed
=  109 x 4000 x 2 x 3.142 /60 W = 45,664W = 45.664 kW = 61 hp approx.
This is the amount of energy extracted from burning petrol per sec and translated to engine
shaft output.

The power mentioned here is the same thing as in your household appliance like 2000W kettle,
50W lamp etc.

Torque can be increased or decreased by way of the gearbox. Power remains nearly same, i.e.
reduced slightly by frictional losses passing throught the drive chain.

At gear 1 & 4000 rpm, the speed is 30 km/h. The road friction & wind resistance is about
17.8kg, so the balance from the 561-17.8 = 543.2 kilos of force suppled at the wheel is to
accelerate the car.
*
this is very awesome info/calculations notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
davidke20
post Jan 16 2015, 06:12 AM

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From: Kuala Lumpur


QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 15 2015, 10:11 PM)
Torque is leverage, measured in Newton-metre, pound-foot etc. For example, when you tighten the
bolt using spanner, torque that you applied is your applied force x the spanner length. It is independent of speed.

Horsepower is another name for power which is energy expenditure per unit time. measured in
joules per sec i.e. Watts

The above 2 concepts are related.
Torque x rotational speed  = power (kW) or horsepower (hp)
(one horsepower  = 0.746 kW)

So in the spanner example above, power depends on how fast you turn the spanner, even if the torque remains the same.

Yes torque determines how much you can accelerate the car, and so is horsepower which not only
accelerates but at what speed at that time. They are not really independent stuff, just what
kind of measurements are involved. Horsepower depends on torque AND speed at any one time.

TECHNICAL STUFF:

Torque of 4G13 engine is 109 Nm @ 4000 rpm (measured at crankshaft).
1st gear ratio = 3.363, final drive gear ratio = 4.322
The gearbox thus reduces the 4000 rpm to 275 rpm while increasing torque to 1584 Nm.

Radius of tire 175/70R13 = 0.288m,
Since torque = force x radius arm, you can calculate the pushing force to be
1584 / 0.288 = 5509 N which is equivalent to 561 kg force.
This means a force equivalent to 561 kg is pushing your car forward in gear 1 at 4000 rpm.

The power that generated at the engine = Torque x rotational speed
=  109 x 4000 x 2 x 3.142 /60 W = 45,664W = 45.664 kW = 61 hp approx.
This is the amount of energy extracted from burning petrol per sec and translated to engine
shaft output.

The power mentioned here is the same thing as in your household appliance like 2000W kettle,
50W lamp etc.

Torque can be increased or decreased by way of the gearbox. Power remains nearly same, i.e.
reduced slightly by frictional losses passing throught the drive chain.

At gear 1 & 4000 rpm, the speed is 30 km/h. The road friction & wind resistance is about
17.8kg, so the balance from the 561-17.8 = 543.2 kilos of force suppled at the wheel is to
accelerate the car.
*
I tot ayam teknikal enuf, bugger dis is another level liao
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northernhero
post Jan 16 2015, 03:38 PM

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My lmst fc is really superb nia
I pumped Rm80 and can barely drive 320 km
Does that mean my fc = RM80/1.91=41.88L , 313km/41.88=7.47km/l ?
I know its a rough calculation but is tis normal?

Mine is lmst 04 manual
davidke20
post Jan 16 2015, 03:51 PM

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QUOTE(northernhero @ Jan 16 2015, 03:38 PM)
My lmst fc is really superb nia
I pumped Rm80 and can barely drive 320 km
Does that mean my fc = RM80/1.91=41.88L , 313km/41.88=7.47km/l ?
I know its a rough calculation but is tis normal?

Mine is lmst 04 manual
*
Keep doing RM80 full tank for the next 4 tanks. After that, baru use your total fuel up amount divide by total amount of km traveled over that 4 tanks. Like that baru accurate geh.
delsoo
post Jan 16 2015, 05:05 PM

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I pumped my fuel tank to about 85-90% . i am driving to my workplace go and back (total distance = 30km) 5 days a week. I noticed that every 3 days , the fuel tank only become half. p/s : i drive maximum 90km/h , keeping the engine rotate at max 2.5k rpm.I hardly pressed the break pedal most of the time , i let the car slowly decelerate until it reach the traffic light. When the traffic light turn green , i change to gear -2 when the car is not fully stopped. Is the fuel consumpution ok? rclxub.gif

This post has been edited by delsoo: Jan 16 2015, 05:07 PM
chrisstse
post Jan 16 2015, 06:47 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Jan 16 2015, 05:05 PM)
I pumped my fuel tank to about 85-90% . i am driving to my workplace go and back (total distance = 30km) 5 days a week. I noticed that every 3 days , the fuel tank only become half. p/s : i drive maximum 90km/h , keeping the engine rotate at max 2.5k rpm.I hardly pressed the break pedal most of the time , i let the car slowly decelerate until it reach the traffic light. When the traffic light turn green , i change to gear -2 when the car is not fully stopped.  Is the fuel consumpution ok? rclxub.gif
*
Like the bros here always say...
do not estimate your F/c by only 1 fuel up. Do 5 consecutive fuel up and then get an average. Also, your figures count. Please get a drive distance using the odo meter and note down your fuel up in Litres, because unless I am the fuel in your tank, i won't know how much is your 85%. Most old cars if well taken care would go up to 12~13km/L. I would be extremely happy if I go 12km/L. Please do not expect 21km/L like the new Honda City hybrid. Your car is one tenth of the value so please be more lenient.

QUOTE(Albert B @ Jan 14 2015, 09:49 PM)
Not 100% confirmed yet is the rubber seal. Water entry is usually due to the boot seal, or
tail-lights seal gap, or both. Need some detective work to narrow down the cause. If you can
see the water trail inside the boot it will help - see if got moisture under the boot seal or 
at the tail-lights. Otherwise you might end up spending money for a new boot lining and later
find the culprit is the tail-light.

In my case, it was both : the tail-light seal was leaking, plus the boot door lining was having
capillary action. I applied sealant to the tail-lights and also clean/oiled the lining (without
buying a new lining), so far so good, no signs of water in the boot after rain.
*
I just confirm that my right tail lights are letting the water through, moisture can be felt but not like waterfall. sweat.gif sweat.gif
Another thing, the rubber that used to seal my back windscreen is also leaking, letting the water to sip into the space where the rear wiper motor was situated, stay there and when i open up the boot, drain out the water into the boot. Somemore, because of the water, my spare tyre space has rust all over, need to polish and redo the paintings. Looks like a big ang pow for my mechanic when it's near CNY....

I just hold my brim for 3 secs and now have to give it to the mechanic.... cry.gif cry.gif cry.gif
davidke20
post Jan 16 2015, 07:41 PM

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CHAPALANG KAR HUASH TT

Normal car wash + vacuum = RM8
Additional water wax = RM10
Promotion COMBO = RM15

Optional:
Dashboard & cabin panels & furnishing shine(non-grease) for leather use(also can prevent PVC dry cracks) = RM10
Cushion, carpet(not the floor mat) & roof carpet wash = RM170


Date: 17th January, 2015
Time: 10am start TT. First cum first wash basis. Cushion/carpet/roof wash please reschedule directly with tauke, otherwise take up too much of other TTer's time

Personal testimonial in spoiler:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


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alexwsk
post Jan 16 2015, 10:35 PM

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QUOTE(northernhero @ Jan 16 2015, 03:38 PM)
My lmst fc is really superb nia
I pumped Rm80 and can barely drive 320 km
Does that mean my fc = RM80/1.91=41.88L , 313km/41.88=7.47km/l ?
I know its a rough calculation but is tis normal?

Mine is lmst 04 manual
*
mine oso LMST 04 manual
my avg is 12.9km/l, http://www.fuelly.com/car/proton/saga/2004/alexwsk/331816


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