I am not sure where the idle port is. However,
if you examine the diagrams, there is one, maybe two,
ports under the butterfly like in constant venturi carbs.
One of these seem to be fed from a "collection of fuel tube"
the entry of which is aligned to the bottom of the piston.

The passages to these ports are on the opposite side to the
fuel reservoir, so how can these be the idle circuits?

But when I read some of the patents, there are descriptions of
fuel droplets flowing under this piston during idle.

So, is this the idle circuit, scooping fuel from under the
piston and feeding to the port below the butterfly?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 19 2017, 02:34 PM


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The "collection of fuel tube" is seen when the piston is
manually retracted.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 19 2017, 05:02 PM


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Yea i have seen that tube many times , but i can not understand how is it working.
If you dismantle the carb that tube has circuit which goes under the butterfly But the fuel circuits are on the opposite side of this tube and there is no way the fuel flow to that tube.
Unless the fuel drops comes from main jet and then this tubes suck it in the venturi pass and discharge it under the butterfly
But this does not make sense at all .
As also we came to conclusion that idle mixture screw controls air and that is on the other side of carb too which is no way related to this tube.
I do not know maybe some magic is happening there

Well upon further reading about that fuel collection tube i guess it is NOT idle discharge port .
It seems there is some kind of flaw in the designs of these carbs which causes fuel drops to forms on the piston needle and then these drops falls on butterfly which would cause rich conditions so this tube seems to gather these drops to avoid this problem.
I am not sure about it though this is just a guess .

hi albert, can u advise me what can be done. my power steering saga lmst, when car move at >95kph, it become very unstable and very light. even with holding the steering with 2 hand.

but when driving in city, around 70-80, there is no problem at all.

recently i had some new part change to the car as per advised by a service center.

-lower arm
-suspension link
-tie rod
-rack end
-steering boot

is there anything else needed to be changed for a stable driving. 12yrs car with 99780km.

check tires(can be air pressure or if its too old)/dampers (or absorbers)

I have not experienced such a situation, so I am unable
to give a precise answer.

From your list, the items not addressed are the tyres and absorber,
as Quazacolt mentioned. Especially worn-out absorbers which are not
able to damp out resonant oscillations. (I presume another item -
the alignment - was already done during the rack end tie rod job).

Maybe the sifus here who have gone through such situations
can help?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Dec 22 2017, 11:03 AM

darjana
agreed, get toe/camber (if anything within pos or neg 0.5 degrees, don't bother adjusting, save yourself potential camber screw scams lol)
checked as well

i had change 4 new tyres . 5months back and it was rotated during 23point check[ 8/12/17]/ from the check, found out the damaged or wear out things i listed earlier. i had all replaced.

i had serviced the absorber 5months back. i dunno what they do. but they take out the 4piece and then replace the outer black round cover 2pc and i heard some welding sound. then i was charged RM232 for all.

for the stability problem, some suggest it could be the Steering Rack Bush.

managed to reach 95kph when my mechanic was driving and he say very unstable. but due to time constraint, he ask me come back on tuesday.

at the moment, i can manage as driving in penang will not go over 80kph.

thank you sifus for the input.

This post has been edited by darjana: Dec 23 2017, 11:12 PM

Hi, sabahan here

interested to see forum discussion about proton saga iswara here and decided to join since i have a 1991 (1992 registered) saga sedan/saloon

newbie driver (just finished probation license at the end of june this year) so i still novice in automotive stuff

hope dapat tunjuk ajar from gurus in here...tunjuk ajarku sifu

_________________

EDIT: sorry for edit cuz i got a (might be) serious problem

few days ago, while i got my car's fuel tank full with gas, the overfilled gas gushed out from below the car (near the steel fuel line) little by little. one of the pelayan isi minyak noticed as he help authorize pay from a motorist...

can anyone tell what cause it to happen and the solution of the mentioned problem?

i double checked the fuel tank and it doesn't bocor, tank still full


This post has been edited by wajihud: Dec 23 2017, 11:47 PM

Hi Albert, do u know where the radiator fan relay located ? i found that my radiator fan not spin as fast as last time. The motor had change.

Fuse box, top row, the one on the left.


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hi guys,

this is my first time online renew insurance.
when i try to renew my insurance with kurnia, it ask me to choose the transmission model

a) S A/B PS SE Version A
b) S Version A
c) S A/B N-Line NPS Version A

I only know my make & type of body is Proton Iswara 1.3 Aeroback Manual / 4D Hatchback, 1298.0 CC, made in 2007.
So, i am guessing is either a) or c).
What is the difference between a) and c) ?

PS = power steering
NPS = Non PS

Thanks!

managed to fix everything . bills comes to about rm1xxx

but now, new problem crop up. today changed the radiator motor fan as it makes sound. then foreman topup the coolant and then all good. then when idling with aircond on juz now over 20min, the temp increase to 4bar and the temp icon started to blink. i noticed the fan didn't start spinning. so i off the car , then waited 2min then start back engine [4bar still on digital display] without turning the aircond. after 30sec+, then fan started to run and the temp back normal. this is 1st time with 4bar temp, the temp icon started to blink. checked reservoir, all good with some visibility of green coolant

does this indicate a faulty thermostat ? any advice sifus

1) The problem that was fixed - was it the steering rack bush
you mentioned earlier?

2) The 4th bar problem: it is possible the thermostat is the cause,
but we are not 100% sure. Because a faulty thermo-switch or
gauge sensor or instrument electronics can also result in the
4th bar coming on.

I am not sure if the workshops have instruments to analyse
temperature flow etc... to determine whether the operation of the
thermostat, thermos switch and sensor are at their correct
temperatures.

For example, an infra-red thermometer can be used to measure
the running temperatures near the gauge sensor and thermo-switch and
comparing with that of an identical car.

Otherwise, the only way to narrow the cause is
to replace each item by trial-and-error.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 6 2018, 01:59 PM

hi albert. steering bush was one of it. and there was radiator fan motor problem. was making clicking sound sometimes. so all together fetch the amount.

today my mechanic replaced the relay that was under the steering side. Denso 4G15 which labelled for fan operation. the relay part was never replaced before.

the problem now is, when the car moved, temp hover between 3 and 4. if i idle for let say 3 or 5min, the temp shoot up to 4bar blinking temp icon or 5bar. my mechanic advised me to run test again for tmr. then monday i have to go again. from my research in net, found some suggestion such as motor switch, radiator cap , water pump . ALL THESE HAPPENS ONLY WITH AIRCOND TURNED ON.

do u have any other suggestion that i can tell my mechanic to look into .

thanks

This post has been edited by darjana: Jan 6 2018, 08:57 PM


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Assuming your coolant is ok, and no rust (as you mentioned
earlier) my opinion of items to check/change will be as follows,
in the order of easiest first:
1) radiator cap - maybe pressure cannot hold.
2) coolant temperature gauge sensor (at intake manifold) - maybe
false reading.
3) fan thermo switch (radiator bottom) - maybe it switch ON the
fan at too high temperature.
4) thermostat - maybe it opens at too high temperature.
5) core plugs (at engine block front & back) - maybe leaking (happened
to a forum member a few years ago).

edit----
The tension of the belt for the water pump have already been
checked? There is possibility of slippage and the pump runs at
lower speed.

edit 2--(DIY)
When engine is cold, or early morning before starting engine
open the radiator cap - the coolant level should be full up to the
overflow tube opening. This is to confirm the coolant return is
working properly, and no air leaks.




This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 7 2018, 10:54 AM

visually inspected the radiator cap rubber. no sign of crack or tear

update: if i set the aircond temperature to full regardless of air speed, the temperature is stable at 3. sometime comes to 4, but immediately within 10sec, it dropped to 3.

This post has been edited by darjana: Jan 7 2018, 09:52 PM