The coolant looks OK, that means there are no
air pockets that reduce cooling efficiency.

You might want to run the engine and observe
whether the water pump belt is not slipping ...

Another observation item : does the drop from
4 bar to 3 bar correspond to the fan operation
or just random?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 8 2018, 10:16 AM

no one reply to my problem...maybe cuz i'm not member?

hi albert. the problem solved. simply a malfunction connector. done for free by my usual mechanic. he ask me test for 3days again. hill drive, slow drive, traffic stop and idling.

if all the possible of temperature already check and fix. u can try adding one extra one ground cable from the meter to the car body, this maybe can solve your problem.

Albert, do u have the iswara front shock absorber mounting photo ? the rubber mounting and the bearing is that separate or both intact ? Israwa LMST mounting different from old iswara right ? since it have front link.

And do you u know, any tips to check my old shock is gas shock or oil shock ?

This post has been edited by Kbbteoh: Jan 8 2018, 11:27 PM

it's an open forum, no membership here. (at least not that i know of)

as far as i know, no issue as it may be just overfill return hose or something.
unless you're sure that there is a leak, otherwise no need to bother.

if got leak, patch/replace leaking part(s).

Glad to hear the problem solved. Which connector was it,
connected to which equipment?

I enclose the pages from Haynes (UK export version)
as I do not have photos for my own car.

I am not sure if LMST is different from Iswara; they both look
the same to me. May have to ask the sifus here, also for
the gas/oil shock.


Attached thumbnail(s)

let me get u photo of it. it was near the radiator fan side.

From your description, it should be the socket for either the
thermo-switch, or the motor supply, see attached.

Your mechanic was able to find the fault easily, from so many
possible causes.


Attached thumbnail(s)

absolutely this is the problem. and he just rewire it. done within 10min. and fixed the problem. now hardly my car reach 4bar temp unless i stuck in jam. but that was for 10sec then tick sound will come and i can feel the new motor fan spinning at full speed

he jokingly told me he was able to detect on 1st look after 1day test coz i have replaced most component inside my car related to temperature and aircond.

This post has been edited by darjana: Jan 12 2018, 06:05 PM

surprise bill...

so sad...

that day sent my car to change brake oil (ask them to flush and fill new ones), and gear oil....then ask them to check all...

then give a call back, said my lower control arm patah d.....they charged me RM165 ea....both RM330....then i saw lazada...also priced around like that..

huhu, why car so many expenses? haha....

any reason why lower control arm patah? is it that i din change my front absorber for long time?



also just sent my car got carbon wrap, RM300 sama bumbung and bonet, black color...but when drive home, found got bubble here and there =(

when i drive, i heard slight sound on front left corner (something like belt sound, but only got sound once every 5 seconds or so, normally can hear after i drove around 15 mins).

more expenses upcoming? =D i'm thinking of changing absorber depan belakang. I bought this 8-year second hand car, and drove the 4th year d, now the car going to 13th year, not sure about my former driver, but i sendiri belum touch any suspension maintenance/upgrade yet.

suggestion?

This post has been edited by alexkos: Jan 13 2018, 01:51 PM

Did you ask the mechanic to show you where is the broken
part of the lower arm? This is strange because if the lower
control arm is broken, whether at the attachment to the
wheel hub or the bush shaft, the wheel will swing out
and you will not be able to drive the car.

Usually it is the rubber bush that is worn out which will show
up as steering drift and the tyres being worn excessively on
the inside.

My experience with the mechanic about Iswara lower arm is
that we have to change the whole thing, not just the bush which
is cheaper, as was done for my previous car.


Attached thumbnail(s)

yes mine also 13yrs. all item are getting replaced on stages. recently changed lower arm = rm240 ori proton.

haha, ya lo...i dunno what is broken, didn't pay attention that time. But i know is triangle stuff so i google suspension part and the name is 'lower arm' as you pointed it out correctly.

Really surprise bill. Btw, after changing lower arm, my front left still got sound after driving for some 15 mins....hmm....time to upgrade? i sayang my iswara...follow me 4 years since 2013...

my bro said that my gearbox looks like basah, looks like more bomb incoming?

depends on ur usage. for example. like mine, i stay in penang. u cant even go 90kph on normal days. every nook and corner there is traffic light or slow cars. and my primary usage is for business purpose and personal.

my lmst was bought on 2005. till last month, it worked fine. then the time has arrived for parts replacement. i made an excel to convince myself not to buy any new car. with the calculation, i found out that from nov 2016 till to date, i forked out rm2.5k for parts replacement / addons excluding normal oil service. and now the car only left with not so good steering on highway speed. rest is pristine becoz i dont wait till the parts fully gone. at a slightest problem, i bring it to my personal mechanic and sort it out.

This post has been edited by darjana: Jan 17 2018, 03:22 AM

this spec for gearbox oil SAE90EP AP1 GL-4 4L can use for iswara lmst 2004?

After having some of my radiator hoses changed, I find that the radiator always run down on water, every week or so need to fill in about 500ml or more of water.. Around half a coke plastic bottle.

But the reservoir tank remain totally full.

Anything funny going on?

Is it not that the reservoir tank suppose to replenish the radiator ?

If you reduce the level in the reservoir (so that it is
not full), does the level later become higher and higher?

If not, from my experience there are two problems:

1) There is a leak somewhere that cause such a heavy loss
of coolant. Normally there is no need to top up any coolant
for many months, even half a year.

2) There is an air leak during the coolant return from
the reservoir during cooling down of the engine, at the
cap or the little hose connecting to the reservoir.

You may need to observe the parts during the engine warm
up to see if there is any abnormality. Maybe it is just problem (2)
where the water expand to the reservoir and overflow away but
does not return.

Or maybe problems (1) & (2) is a water & air leak at the same place.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jan 19 2018, 06:37 PM

WTA: The recommended brick and motar shop to buy Rubber and trims for Proton Iswara Sedan Yr 2000. Mind are starting to fall apart. Rust sets in. Fragile plastic breaking. Old school digital clock display blackout. And whatnot?


Good car bodyshop that can tighten my car from flexing chassis noise?

Thanks the senior here!