No, the plug removal needs the correct tools. If it is
too tight, let the mechanic handle this.

There should be no oil in the radiator. But I am not sure
in your case it is sign of
1) gasket failure
2) engine block cracked
3) engine head warped

All of which need major overhaul. However in your case
you are losing lots of oil, there should be lots of it in the radiator....

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 14 2017, 01:00 PM

Major overhaul how much? BTW, what's the purpose of checking the spark plug gt oil stains or not?

This post has been edited by delsoo: Oct 14 2017, 01:01 PM

I am not sure it's a lot or not. I defined 100 % as the max level, lower end of dipstick = 0%. The oil level dropped from 75%level to about 40% level...

That is not a lot. Initially when you said half the oil
I thought half of the 3.5 litres in the crankcase....

Max - min lines of the dipstick do not represent the whole
of the oil in the engine, just the maintenance level ....

But is still losing oil, though not as serious as initailly
thought.

The spark plugs will show oil loss as follows:

1) wet oil on the electrodes/insulator = piston rings
letting oil through into the combustion chamber

2) burnt oil on one side of the insulator = oil leaking
past the valve seals dripping down into the chamber.

Then does it means about 35 % of the oil had been lost? From 75 to 40 % according to oil level shown on dipstick

No.

It is not calculated like that.

If you want to calculate based on the dipstick indicator,
you need to know the area of the oil surface in the crankcase.
And the distance from the oil surface to the bottom ...
Furthermore the shape of the crankcase is not uniform, so
even if you try, it is not accurate at all.

The easiest way to know is to measure how much oil was
added to the required level, by using a container of known
volume to measure the amount that was added.


Attached thumbnail(s)

Better do complete since already open the top.


Labour is about RM600

Part u buy yrself cheaper

1) Switch was changed because no one is able to find out what's the problem, or where the problem comes from... So, bit by bit, trial and error, LOL!

2) It's super random, I can't tell when it'll goes up to 4 or when it'll maintain at 3. When the car is idle, it's almost always at 3 bars. Super random, really. All the way to KLCC today no jam, it maintained at 3 bars until I was parking the car in the basement, then it suddenly turned 4 bars. LOL. Then, from KLCC to Time Square, no problem at all, 3 bars all the way. After that, from Time Square back home, slow moving all the way through Sg Besi highway for 30 minutes or so... 3 bars. Vomit blood already...



By the way, Sony Xplod HUD died after almost 10 years of service. Any suggestion which unit to get, and where to get a replacement? Budget around RM200. Brothers?

That means if you are confident the 4th bar is not anything to do
with overheating and wish to pursue the trial-and-error process,
then it is the temperature gauge sensor's (sender unit) turn.
See below for its location.

If the 4th bar comes on, and the fan is does not start, and the opposite
is also true, it is confirmed that it is some quirk of the display circuit.

You might want to jiggle it a little bit to see if it makes any difference.
Beware however, the plastic plug socket is fragile and will disintegrate
as happened in my case (I just bound it back with insulating tape). Or,
replace it....

I am not familiar with the stereo unit, so unable to comment on it.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 14 2017, 04:37 PM


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WTF, it's just that one small thing? LOL! Come to think about it, usually when it turned up to 4 bars, it's while I'm on the road... So, I can't really check on the fan. Hmmm... I'm not sure if it would make any differences, but well... Still need to find out the cause of it. Some experience on overheating, it'll go straight up to 5 bars, and it'll blink. Speaking from personal experience, I was an idiot back then; it was completely dry. No water at all. That was why it went up to 5 bars. This time, it just stick to 3 and 4 and 3 and 4 again. So... LOL. Funny la, in a way.

Oh, by the way, do you know where is the switch to tune the RPM? I think mine is a little too high... It's running at 1.5 at times when the car is idle with air con. Off the air con, and it's at 1

This post has been edited by domo_kun: Oct 14 2017, 08:51 PM

1) Actually, in addition to that small thing, there are electronic circuits
in the instrument panel for LMST; compared to the Iswara which have
only analog dials.

2) The hot idle adjustment screws are on the left (passenger) side of
the carburettor, see below. Not applicable to warming up from cold
stage which have its own screws on the right (driver) side. You can
ask someone to switch the air-cond ON and OFF and you can observe
how it works.


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http://www.xciteaudio.com/

Just add one more ground cable or thicker ground cable from digital meter to car chassis. your problem will be solved !

About same as mine.

Some oil drop, maybe a quarter of your dipstick every 1,000
- 1,500 km, is normal by this time.

My third, followed by my second, now my first too, spark plugs
will fouled up with some oil on the lower insulator and electrodes.

I have to take them out and clean them every few weeks, definitely
not more than a month.

I have changed my valve seals twice - initially improved for the
first few months after the first change, then the third one started
fouling again, which the mechanics couldn't figure out.

I know my piston rings are bound to be a bit loose by this time.

Your piston rings, valve seals, engine cover rubber, etc, are
also bound to be a bit loose by now.

If oil is in your radiator, first thing to look at is your cylinder head
gasket.

Go to your friendly mechanic, ask them to check it out.

To save money, ask if maybe you can just change the head gasket
for a start.

They will also change new valve seals, and grind your valves at the
same time. Ask then to check out the valve stem inserts too (the
metal cylinders which the valves slide up and down).

The last I heard a few years ago, this will cost about $450,
excluding the valve inserts.

The gasket kits which they give you or buy in the parts shops
may not contain Viton valve seals, usually the cheapest nitrile
types, poor heat resistance.

Go buy a set of good Viton valve seals yourself and pass it
to your mechanic. Around $ 30 for 12 seals.

Temperature range of valve seal materials -

Nitrile - 250 deg F
Polyacrylate - 300 F (like the NOK brown types)
Viton - 400 F (like NOK green types)
Teflon - 500 F (usually not used, since teflon is hard and not
flexible when heated up)

If you do a full overhaul (haul up the whole engine, change
piston rings too), I understand this will cost around $1,500
these days with their parts.

Maybe just $500 - 600 for labour alone, if you buy own parts,
like the other poster said.



The amount of oil from top to bottom of dipstick marks
is just about one liter, actually.



This post has been edited by Tham: Oct 15 2017, 01:16 PM

Albert, which company you bought your third party from ?

How much, and any loading ?

Maybe I will buy that next year.

I have bought Tune from post office, $ 260. Loading 15 percent.

Axa quoted me about $170 for third party fire/theft, no loading.

So I thought might as well buy comprehensive from post office.

Ahhh, didn't realize all this until now that you mentioned it... Hehe, thank you, thank you. You're enthusiast or you repair car?

Err, online only? I think Brothers has some cheaper... I remember seeing one less than RM300 with Bluetooth some more... Hehe.

How?

send to the workshop, they will help u do. The dash plastic is very fragile, once u broken cant recover. workshop have special prying tools to do that.

They have store at kepong.

U can survey first before buying. Compare first with brothers.

But u need to find installer

At garage sales they also selling

The premiums are calculated as follows:

Notes:
1) The 3rd party is without fire/theft; it is the bare
minimum to get the road tax renewed. The age loading
and NCD may vary. Without the PA it will be RM139.

2)Comprehensive does not come with loading. Just
straight premium discounted by the NCD.

3) Because of the PA the premiums are almost the same
for both cases. Old car 3rd party is really a raw deal.

4) Problem: Cars older than 10 years are not eligible for
comprehensive.

The post office gives a better deal, and I am thinking
of going there next ...

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 17 2017, 09:32 AM