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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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darjana
post Sep 25 2017, 12:24 AM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Sep 23 2017, 08:53 PM)
how's the result ?  biggrin.gif Is it effective enough ?
*
caltex fuel already got this inside. ron97 has most. i stopped buying after one bottle.
delsoo
post Sep 25 2017, 06:36 AM

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QUOTE(darjana @ Sep 25 2017, 12:24 AM)
caltex fuel already got this inside. ron97 has most. i stopped buying after one bottle.
*
other fuel gt ?
biggrin.gif
kuang85
post Sep 25 2017, 09:47 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Sep 23 2017, 08:53 PM)
how's the result ?  biggrin.gif Is it effective enough ?
*
not much different, haha.
kuang85
post Sep 25 2017, 09:50 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Sep 24 2017, 11:08 AM)
It seems this starting difficulty is a characteristic  of Iswaras;
I experienced this even when the car was new.

1) Cold engine : Starts instantly when cranked.

2) Very hot engine (immediately after stopping) :
Starts instantly when cranked.

3) Warm engine : Need to crank about 3 to 5 seconds.

4) Immediately after engine run-on/dieseling occuring
at shut-off: Need to crank 5 or more seconds.

Pumping the petrol pedal does not seem to help.

So far I have not come across any explanation of this issue.

I believe it has to do with the interaction of following
in some way, and is not a symptom of some fault:

a) choke operation (air bleed for cold & hot state),
b) EGR (which operates after certain temperature),
c) remaining fuel clinging to the walls of the manifold, carb throat etc.
d) hot idle compensator air bleed,
e) petrol fumes inside the intake/carb.
*
Thanks for your info, my one same as you. warm engine need to crank few times only can start.
Pumping the petrol pedal also not help and found more difficult to start.
darjana
post Sep 25 2017, 10:46 PM

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QUOTE(delsoo @ Sep 25 2017, 06:36 AM)
other fuel gt ?
biggrin.gif
*
shell dynaflex
Kbbteoh
post Sep 25 2017, 11:51 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Sep 24 2017, 11:08 AM)
It seems this starting difficulty is a characteristic  of Iswaras;
I experienced this even when the car was new.

1) Cold engine : Starts instantly when cranked.

2) Very hot engine (immediately after stopping) :
Starts instantly when cranked.

3) Warm engine : Need to crank about 3 to 5 seconds.

4) Immediately after engine run-on/dieseling occuring
at shut-off: Need to crank 5 or more seconds.

Pumping the petrol pedal does not seem to help.

So far I have not come across any explanation of this issue.

I believe it has to do with the interaction of following
in some way, and is not a symptom of some fault:

a) choke operation (air bleed for cold & hot state),
b) EGR (which operates after certain temperature),
c) remaining fuel clinging to the walls of the manifold, carb throat etc.
d) hot idle compensator air bleed,
e) petrol fumes inside the intake/carb.
*
Try floor the pedal when warm start.
step
1. turn key to on position.
2. floor the pedal
3. start the car.
4. after start release as fast as can, to prevent piston fly off.

caution to rpm meter, make sure engine run in safe range.

this advice from my friends that he had old iswara same engine as lmst. He said it is not a big deal, because actually the engine already started but just in low rpm like around 500 rpm which nearly same as the starter.
quahkahmeng
post Sep 28 2017, 02:57 PM

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can the saga lmst meter convert to saga flx meter? Is the both meters are the same size? plan to convert it
SUSTham
post Sep 28 2017, 03:26 PM

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@Albert B




Albert, might you be familar with car insurance ?

My car had been insured, comprehensive, with AXA
up to its 20th year, quite low loading.

It's now going into the 21st year, and AXA will only offer
third party, plus fire and theft.

I was at the post office the other day, and the clerk told me
that Tune Insurance will cover comprehensive up to 30 years.

Wow, I thought that was very rare.

I emailed Tune and they said they have it only up to 15 years.


Seems the policies bought thru post office are more relaxed ?
How come they have double standards ?


kuang85
post Sep 28 2017, 08:26 PM

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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Sep 25 2017, 11:51 PM)
Try floor the pedal when warm start.
step
1. turn key to on position.
2. floor the pedal
3. start the car.
4. after start release as fast as can, to prevent piston fly off.

caution to rpm meter, make sure engine run in safe range.

this advice from my friends that he had old iswara same engine as lmst. He said it is not a big deal, because actually the engine already started but just in low rpm like around 500 rpm which nearly same as the starter.
*
Will try and see, thanks for your info.
Albert B
post Sep 28 2017, 09:54 PM

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QUOTE(Tham @ Sep 28 2017, 03:26 PM)
@Albert B
Albert, might you be familar with car insurance ?

My car had been insured, comprehensive, with AXA
up to its 20th year, quite low loading.

It's now going into the 21st year, and AXA will only offer
third party, plus fire and theft.

I was at the post office the other day, and the clerk told me
that Tune Insurance will cover comprehensive up to 30 years.

Wow, I thought that was very rare.

I emailed Tune and they said they have it only up to 15 years.
Seems the policies bought thru post office are more relaxed ?
How come they have double standards ?
*
I have not made the effort to survey the various insurance companies
for the best deals so I am unable to comment on this issue; your info
in the posting is more than what I know.

Vehicle insurance companies have used the justification of
"higher risks" for older vehicles to increase premium loading etc;
See:
http://www.thestar.com.my/opinion/letters/...old-car-owners/

From what you mentioned, you are getting a better deal than what I
have; my company refused to insure comprehensive if the market
value is below RM10k or something like that.

Once I went to those insurance counters outside JPJ office for a quote
(just for curiosity); the premium quoted was more-or-less the same as
what I was paying.

However, after your posting, I looked up on the so-called POS Malaysia
motor-pool insurance ...
https://pos.com.my/postal-courier-services/...ices/?insurance
... it does not give details but it mentions a list of companies.

So I just lookup some of the companies' websites and there are on-line
quotations, e.g.:
http://www.renewinsurance.com.my/what-is-mmip/
http://www.renewinsurance.com.my/online-renewal/
https://www.libertyinsurance.com.my/motor/s...es-listing/mmip
https://w10.financial-link.com.my/PremiumLi.../insuredquo.jsp
https://www.tuneprotect.com/motor-easy-buy/
( the Tune website is kind of sluggish)

I think I will try some of these on-line sites ....
By the way, how does the post office sell the insurance; by dealing
with the companies on our behalf, or by redirecting us to deal with
them? Furthermore, I heard that a Puspakom inspection is mandatory,
is it true?

SUSTham
post Sep 29 2017, 02:49 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Sep 28 2017, 01:54 PM)


From what you mentioned, you are getting a better deal than what I
have; my company refused to insure comprehensive if the market
value is below RM10k or something like that.

Once I went to those insurance counters outside JPJ office for a quote
(just for curiosity); the premium quoted was more-or-less the same as
what I was paying.


I think I will try some of these on-line sites ....
By the way, how does the post office sell the insurance; by dealing
with the companies on our behalf, or by redirecting us to deal with
them? Furthermore, I heard that a Puspakom inspection is mandatory,
is it true?
*
How old is your car ?

If up to 20 years, you can buy comprehensive at AXA. After that,
like mine, they will give third party plus fire/theft.

Insured $10,000, loading 15 %.

They give 10 % discount too, since you are buying direct.

If you don't add windscreen cover, premium less than $300.



I had been buying at the AXA branch at 37A, Jln SS 15/5A,
Subang Jaya, for the past four years.

Multipurpose, now called MPI, also emailed me back
and said they give to 20 years. Don't know their loading.


So I was at post office again yesterday. The girl said she
could not check for me yet, since it was still just outside
the two month period from expiry.

She said insured sum is $8,000, loading around 20%,
but you know these counter clerks usually are not sure.

Any feedback from friends or relatives about reliability
of Tune ? They are new into insurance, so I am a little hesitant.

They also seem to have hardly and branches around KL
and PJ, other than the HQ at Jln Dungun.

Since I am out of a job now, thought maybe just buy
the third party plus fire/theft at Axa. Premium probably
won't be more than $200.

You can buy direct at any Post office, any of companies
on their panel. They are supposed to be agents.

No, I don't think you need a Puspakom inspection.
That's only when you buy a car more than 15 years old,
I think.

The premiums are standard based on rates for engine
size, etc, but the coverage seems more relaxed than
buying direct or thru the usual insurance agents.

Albert B
post Sep 30 2017, 11:47 AM

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QUOTE(Tham @ Sep 29 2017, 02:49 PM)
How old is your car ?

If up to 20 years, you can buy comprehensive at AXA. After that,
like mine, they will give third party plus fire/theft.

Insured $10,000, loading 15 %.
...
She said insured sum is $8,000, loading around 20%,
but you know these counter clerks usually are not sure.

...
You can buy direct at any Post office, any of companies
on their panel. They are supposed to be agents.

...
The premiums are standard based on rates for engine
size, etc, but the coverage seems more relaxed than
buying direct or thru the usual insurance agents.
*
1. My car is about 16 years old.

2. The insured value RM8k, 10k seems to be higher than the
market value. Last time I check, our Iswara is worth only
about RM4 - 5k. Will they reimburse the full insured value or
market value in case of total loss etc?

3. If the post office can give better terms, why not take it
and let them bear the responsibilities, as stated in the
policy documents?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Sep 30 2017, 11:48 AM
Albert B
post Sep 30 2017, 12:13 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Sep 19 2017, 10:04 AM)
if you compare your headlamps with that of a new car side by side,
does the reflecting surface looks like faded? It is supposed to be
like a mirror surface. ...
Below is my headlamp which have its mirror reflective surface
faded after long use. Increasing bulb brightness isn't going
to help ...


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SUSTham
post Sep 30 2017, 03:30 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Sep 30 2017, 03:47 AM)
1. My car is about 16 years old.

2. The insured value RM8k, 10k seems to be higher than the
market value. Last time I check, our Iswara is worth only
about RM4 - 5k. Will they reimburse the full insured value or
market value in case of total loss etc?

3. If the post office can give better terms, why not take it
and let them bear the responsibilities, as stated in the
policy documents?
*
Yes, $8 - 10,000 is much higher than the market value.

The fact that they can offer comprehensive for such an
old car is enough - some companies don't even give third
party, and they ask you to go thru that motor insurance pool.

That's why I took Axa's policy the last few years.

Before that, I bought Multi Purpose at post office, also $8,000,
I think, but the loading was higher, 30 percent.

Obviously they won't compensate you $10,000 in the event
of total loss or theft, but it's useful if, say, your car is badly
damaged, with repairs requiring a few thousand dollars.

You mean your car now is third party, fire/theft ?

This Tune seems to have only one office in the whole of KL
and PJ at Jln Dungun. No branches.

I was at post office again yesterday, and the girl calculated my
premium to be a bit high - $293.




Albert B
post Oct 1 2017, 05:55 PM

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QUOTE(Tham @ Sep 30 2017, 03:30 PM)
Yes, $8 - 10,000 is much higher than the market value.

The fact that they can offer comprehensive for such an
old car is enough - some companies don't even give third
party,  and they ask you to go thru that motor insurance pool.

That's why I took Axa's policy the last few years.

Before that, I bought Multi Purpose at post office, also $8,000,
I think, but the loading was higher, 30 percent.

Obviously they won't compensate you $10,000 in the event
of total loss or theft, but it's useful if, say, your car is badly
damaged, with repairs requiring a few thousand dollars.

You mean your car now is third party, fire/theft ?

This Tune seems to have only one office in the whole of KL
and PJ at Jln Dungun. No branches.

I was at post office again yesterday, and the girl calculated my
premium to be a bit high - $293.
*
Yes 3rd party, no fire/theft. I thought only comprehensive
comes with fire/theft. Anyway isn't 3rd party+fire+theft is
equivalent of two-thirds of comprehensive in terms of benefits?


Your comprehensive comes with loading? I thought only for 3rd
party they will load based on age of car & driver.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 1 2017, 05:57 PM
ricko99
post Oct 2 2017, 11:08 PM

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Can anyone vouch which brand is better for rear absorber replacement? I just need a decent one that works well since my oem one is busted alrwady. Been thinking of getting between sacsh super touring and apm performax
alexkos
post Oct 6 2017, 09:17 PM

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want to ask

1. when my car starts from cold, e.g., in the morning, the rpm struggles to catch up. sometimes drop to as low as 600 rpm.....normally need to wait for few minutes to ensure smoother driving.

anyway to over come this issue?

2. i felt that my car bonnet vibrates alot (i can feel it from my driving seat and dashboard) especially when i'm idle on the road. If on aircon, the situation is worsen. Normally i need to pijak minyak abit to force rpm to go a little higher (the reading while idle with aircon on is around 1000, sometimes is 900, so i need to pijak minyak a bit to let it go around 1100 to feel less vibration and quietness)

what should i do to improve the situation?

3. the cat is going to kaput soon, especially front bonnet and roof. I heard of carbon fiber stuff. Good or not, and budget?

4. my fren recommend me install sobar (is it how that is pronounced?), spring (at the rear), is it good? budget? haha

5. he also recommend me change brake oil (coz he sees very dark d), but i go to repair shop, the repair shop says normally they don't change brake oil, only adding. Lol. what should i do?

6. there's a leaking part (see photo), i gg liao? but i see the ground, no leaking wor.....the photo seems like the part is wet. What part is it? repair expensive ma? =(

7. lastly, my fren also recommend changing gearbox. mine is manual. He didn't test drive my car, just suggest only. What's your opinion on it?

8. i heard of installing what iswara changing engine to 4g15 for better fc. Should i go for it?

9. those rubber rubber stuff. I heard changing is quite expensive, especially the engine part where it needs to be mounted. Is overhaul same meaning of mounting?

Thank you =)

2005 Iswara LMST 1.3 Manual Blue reporting in...


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Albert B
post Oct 7 2017, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Oct 6 2017, 09:17 PM)
want to ask

1. when my car starts from cold, e.g., in the morning, the rpm struggles to catch up. sometimes drop to as low as 600 rpm.....normally need to wait for few minutes to ensure smoother driving.

anyway to over come this issue?

2. i felt that my car bonnet vibrates alot (i can feel it from my driving seat and dashboard) especially when i'm idle on the road. If on aircon, the situation is worsen. Normally i need to pijak minyak abit to force rpm to go a little higher (the reading while idle with aircon on is around 1000, sometimes is 900, so i need to pijak minyak a bit to let it go around 1100 to feel less vibration and quietness)

what should i do to improve the situation?

3. the cat is going to kaput soon, especially front bonnet and roof. I heard of carbon fiber stuff. Good or not, and budget?

4. my fren recommend me install sobar (is it how that is pronounced?), spring (at the rear), is it good? budget? haha

5. he also recommend me change brake oil (coz he sees very dark d), but i go to repair shop, the repair shop says normally they don't change brake oil, only adding. Lol. what should i do?

6. there's a leaking part (see photo), i gg liao? but i see the ground, no leaking wor.....the photo seems like the part is wet. What part is it? repair expensive ma? =(

7. lastly, my fren also recommend changing gearbox. mine is manual. He didn't test drive my car, just suggest only. What's your opinion on it?

8. i heard of installing what iswara changing engine to 4g15 for better fc. Should i go for it?

9. those rubber rubber stuff. I heard changing is quite expensive, especially the engine part where it needs to be mounted. Is overhaul same meaning of mounting?

Below are my quick comments; details are available in previous
postings in this thread. Need to search for them to give a full
reply.

1) First, the autochoke needs to be checked whether it is working.
If it is, then the cold idle screws need to be adjusted.
UPDATE: Your car still have the thermostat or have
been removed?


2) For this one, the hot idle screw/air-cond fast idle screw need to
be adjusted, can be done easily.

3) ---

4) sobar = absorber (damper)? Sway bar? Stabiliser bar?

5) Brake fluid needs to be changed at certain intervals, and is
mentioned in the Proton owners service manual.

6) Maybe it is the rocker cover seal, not very expensive. But let the
mechanic check so as to confirm.

7) Why change gearbox, is it to auto?

8) ---

9) Overhaul is not mounting. Overhaul is to take apart the engine or
gearbox etc to renew stuff, refurbish parts, service/clean things ...
Mounting bushes are the rubber wear parts for the engine mounts,
suspension track arm etc. I am not sure if the workshops change the little
rubber pieces instead of the whole unit (example the lower track arm).

This post has been edited by Albert B: Oct 7 2017, 08:14 PM
alexkos
post Oct 7 2017, 10:11 AM

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tq...appreciate a lot =)
SUSrazhar
post Oct 8 2017, 01:01 PM

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my saga 2004's clutch bearing for compressor has started to produce unwanted sound..how to fix it?

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