do share here if you found one, i'm oso from subang area, thx

the GPS is correct, i thk the lmst meter was calibrated for 13 inch wheel
mine also roughly 10% less than speedometer, so 100 at meter is only 90km/h

use the same gps in BLM and the speedometer speed matches the GPS

This post has been edited by alexwsk: Aug 23 2017, 08:53 PM

I am unable to comment on this as I do not constantly use GPS;
hopefully members here with lots of GPS experience can help
out. (I have heard elsewhere that some car makers purposely
show higher speed to make the drivers stay within the limit but
I am not sure if this is true).

However, I did some checking other than GPS, and it seems that
there is evidence of higher readings:

1) I calculate the engine rpm - gear ratio - tyre diameter
to get the road speed (see below), at 3000 rpm, 4th gear the
theoretical speed is 80.5 km/h, but the speedo reads 85 km/hr.

2) I did a distance check using Google maps for a drive and compare the trip
meter reading, the map shows 24 km, the tripmeter shows 26km.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Aug 24 2017, 09:40 AM


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The Iswara / LMST do not have cabin filters. The cooling coil
needs to be cleaned of the dirt. This can be done by the air-cond shop
as they have the tools, during your periodic service for the air-cond
(see below).


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I would add the alternator too, just to be safe; the copper coils inside it can be
seen through the holes.

Hi guys, any idea to make lmst more fuel efficient?
Full tank can Jalan 300km++ only

The only thing i can say is
Have your tyres to optimum pressure, reduce the weight of your car, most important of all, light footed lol.

for lmst we don't have a filter from the blower side to replace, i found that myself too (as mentioned by the mechanic also). Unless there's some filter under the dash there

For exterior
clean the evaporator, other than that i not sure wat more can be done.

For interior
Clean the blower, clean the cooling coil, maybe replace the dryer if needed, expansion valve depends on what the mechanic say. Keep in mind that when cleaning up the cooling coil also might require dismantling the coil from the AC system which will need to draw out the refrigerant/'gas'.

Ald done with tat. Gg lo.

I think the no-filter is why is easier for Iswara / LMST to pickup those rubbish truck smells if following behind.

hi. my temperature gauge going up more than half if driving up to steep road and will back to normal after downhill. Is it cause by radiator not enough to cope it?

1) How steep was the slope? Use 1st or 2nd gear, and for how long?

2) Did the needle go to the red zone? or only slightly above normal?

3) How is the condition of the coolant in the radiator? Any air pockets,
corrosion, deposits in the water tubes?

1. Drove at jalan hulu langat. If you know how steep that road. Maintain using 2nd and 3rd gear when climbing and descending.

2. Fortunately needle not go to red zone. Just slightly more than half but before this needle will stay slightly below half if driving uphill.

3. Just recently changed coolant. Usually will check for air pocket after changing coolant.

From your reply, the gauge would be showing the temperature
position like in the photo, together with Proton manual instruction
for this issue. That would mean the engine is not overheating.

However, the concern is there is a change from your previous
experience. The reason could be different conditions (steeper road,
hotter day, heavier car loading, more wheel/tyre/road resistance ... ),
or, a deterioration in cooling performance.

When you changed your coolant recently, did you see rust, dirt,
teh-tarik colour coolant etc when the cap was opened and old
coolant drained out? If there was, and if no flushing was done
there could be some rust coating the tubes or passages and this
reduces heat removal.

If there is a sudden leak at the overflow hose or cap, air pockets
can form by drawing in air instead of coolant when cooling down.
You can check this by opening the cap in the morning before you
start the engine.



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Yes, same like the photo when driving uphill.

Got some of rust and dirt but not teh tarik coolant when changing it. But when flushing I ensure that no rust or dirt forming again by repeating all over again.

Next, I will check the cap for air pockets after this.

before that how many mileage per tank ? what is the mileage of your car ?

Tat figure all the time. 300++km per tank

Assuming your car gets 350 km and full tank = 40 litres
when refueling, your car is giving 8.8 km/l, or consuming
11.4 litres per 100 km.

There is no single solution to this problem, as we do not
know where the inefficiency is.

However, to help narrow down the possibilities, do a
"coast-down" test to see if it is from the demand side
(car resistance), or from the supply side (engine output).

Find a straight level stretch of road with minimal traffic,
accelerate to 85 or 95 km/h, put to neutral, and see the
trip-meter reading at say, 90 or 80 km/hr, then at 60 or 50 km/h.
For safety you may want to get a helper to record these data.
Do a few runs, making sure there is no wind to affect the
results.

Typical distance required for the car speed to drop from
90 to 60 km/hr is about 0.6 to 0.7 km. This data will determine
if your car have too much aerodynamic and rolling resistance.

I presume your car is used in city driving with lots of jams,
traffic lights etc. One of the major fuel consumption item is
energy wasted in acceleration and braking. If you can adjust
your driving style to reduce these to a minimum, you might
see some results; however you have to overcome the desire to
close vehicle distance gaps, and bear with some impatient
drivers behind you.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Aug 31 2017, 06:45 PM

Also look at the condition of the tubes visible when
you open the cap, to see if there are scale or coating
the insides.

Based on my experience, i only know jammed auto choke will cause sudden decrease in fuel efficiency.

Does radiator cap influence the temperature?