If you mean whether using a higher pressure cap can affect the
temperature, it depends on whether your cooling system is
operating near the boiling point. If it is, the higher pressure
raises the boiling point giving a higher margin before the water
boils. However this also means that your cooling system is
faulty and the source of the fault should be rectified; the system
is designed to operate at temperatures much lower than the
boiling point. The higher pressure itself is not the cause of
higher temperatures, it just prevents or delays the boiling.

If you mean whether a faulty cap can increase the temperature,
the answer is yes, because if it cannot maintain the required
pressure, the water may start to boil, and steam bubbles cannot
remove heat effectively from the system, and so excess heat
accumulates, making it worse. Alternatively, if the vacuum
return water valve or hose or the top seal are faulty, air replaces
the coolant and reduces the amount of coolant in the radiator.

If your system is working correctly, using a higher cap gives
a higher margin that is not necessary, with the side effect of
higher pressure loading on the seals, hoses, radiator structure
etc. From what I know, the higher pressure does not give any
significant improvement in the density/mass flow and the
specific heat capacity of the water, two of the properties
that determine the amount of heat removed.

I need help...both headlamps of my saga lmst not functioning..where can I find the relay for the headlamp? when I switched on the lamp...the high beam symbol is on..






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There is some discussion about the headlamp relays in this thread,
see around this posting:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=85528841

Take note the fuse for headlamps is not in the fusebox,
it is some sort of glass cylinder type attached to a harness
near the battery.

The wiring plug can also be checked for signs of
heat damage , see:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=85471963
The terminals in this plug can be tested with a multimeter
to help narrow down the fault, but I do not have the circuit
that shows which terminal pins are related to the headlamps.
Maybe other members here can help.

Otherwise you may have to troubleshoot the stalk switch
at the steering column.

update=====
see also
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=75108398

This post has been edited by Albert B: Sep 10 2017, 11:36 AM

i need help .
my proton iswara year 2005 both headlamp lights are not bright enough.
how to make the headlamp lights brighter ?

how to open the cover? need to open the steering wheel?

relays changed...still same...the said wire already done by previous owner..any idea? any idea about this diagram?



This post has been edited by razhar: Sep 11 2017, 04:06 PM


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To open the plastic covers under the steering wheel, you need
to open 5 screws if I remember correctly. But to remove the
stalk switch you need to remove the steering wheel; its top cover
is probably secured by 1 screw you can feel at the bottom side.
Some photos from the net attached:

=====UPDATE=====
Have you checked the fuse located near the battery?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Sep 11 2017, 08:28 PM


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will check for all fuses tomorrow morning...where to get 2nd stalk in klang? (In case)

1) FUSE : from what I read in this thread, there is only 1 fuse
for headlamps, it is not in the fuse box.

2) Iswara lamp turn signal wiper switch:
see search result:
https://www.google.com/search?q=iswara+lamp...0.0.YSor-qJaWaQ

examples:
http://www.ecsenang.com/goods.php?id=2043
https://www.lelong.com.my/1-set-turn-signal...8-01-Sale-P.htm
etc.
You should try the spare parts shops also.

is it dimmer when aircond turned on ? last time same problem. then changed battery + mechanic added something he say booster. then bought bosch gigalight. now vy good.

now the reading is 14.4 from cigarette port.

to increase the brightness, the automotive tech told me we need to add relay and better bulb...

This post has been edited by razhar: Sep 19 2017, 04:23 PM

if you compare your headlamps with that of a new car side by side,
does the reflecting surface looks like faded? It is supposed to be
like a mirror surface. In my case, I tried to clean the surface through
the opening for the bulb, the chrome material came off so I gave up.

Maybe new headlamps are required.

=====update
see also
http://cyan-tjxian.blogspot.my/2014/09/bri...headlights.html

This post has been edited by Albert B: Sep 19 2017, 09:40 PM


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Hi Albert, based on last few pic about the headlamp wiring things, I'm abit confuse. Actually what is the max power ( watt ) that can be draw from the stock cable ? I'm thinking to add harness wire kit to brighter up my lamp. Current I using the Philip H4 55/60W bulb.

I do not have the Proton specifications for the circuits, so
I compiled some data from Haynes manual and from the internet,
see attached pictures.

The Haynes circuit shows the main wire to the headlamps is 2 sq.mm
i.e. gauge 14 AWG. Then the individual wires to the bulbs are 0.85 and
1.25 sq.mm i.e. 18 and 16 AWG approximately.

From the tables and description the power or amp limitation depends
on a few things, mainly heat and voltage drop (which depends on length).

The standard 55/60W bulb will draw about 5 amps (60W divided by 12V =
5 A). The tables shows the wire amp capacity much higher than this, probably
because voltage drop was also an important factor, plus safety factor.

If you want to calculate Power the formula is Power = Voltage x Amps.
Voltage drop = resistance (Ohms) x Amps.

It is difficult to give a definite answer for the power capacity, the design
calculations need to be examined. Besides wiring, there are also relays,
plugs (notorious for heat damage), and suspected current flow through
the steering column switch.

By the way, what is the harness wire kit composed of? What bulb rating
will be required?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Sep 20 2017, 12:55 PM


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Hi , anyone use those fuel injector cleaner before ? I saw it in the supermaket , plan to give it a try . Should I pour in the whole bottle to the fuel tank ? Or just a little proportion only ?

I need some advice from all sifu


This post has been edited by kuang85: Apr 14 2019, 09:05 PM

I did try Caltex one before, instruction is pour whole bottle into fuel tank and fill the petrol.
My colleague suggest "Mayvel mystery oil", it can pour into fuel tank and also engine oil. I will try it on next oil change.
http://www.marvelmysteryoil.com/index.php/site/mmo/

how's the result ? Is it effective enough ?

It seems this starting difficulty is a characteristic of Iswaras;
I experienced this even when the car was new.

1) Cold engine : Starts instantly when cranked.

2) Very hot engine (immediately after stopping) :
Starts instantly when cranked.

3) Warm engine : Need to crank about 3 to 5 seconds.

4) Immediately after engine run-on/dieseling occuring
at shut-off: Need to crank 5 or more seconds.

Pumping the petrol pedal does not seem to help.

So far I have not come across any explanation of this issue.

I believe it has to do with the interaction of following
in some way, and is not a symptom of some fault:

a) choke operation (air bleed for cold & hot state),
b) EGR (which operates after certain temperature),
c) remaining fuel clinging to the walls of the manifold, carb throat etc.
d) hot idle compensator air bleed,
e) petrol fumes inside the intake/carb.

Hah! Same here with my 2004 LMST. I would have expected the opposite, i.e easier to start when warm