Guys, bad mounting causing the steering to shake / vibrate during idle.
Any long-term problems if left it unrepaired? Other than annoyance.
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
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May 21 2017, 03:25 PM
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#1
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Guys, bad mounting causing the steering to shake / vibrate during idle.
Any long-term problems if left it unrepaired? Other than annoyance. |
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May 23 2017, 10:56 AM
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#2
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QUOTE(Exa_Bytez @ May 23 2017, 08:59 AM) I have the same problem as you and I changed my engine mounting two years ago. Anyway, what's your idle rpm? I set it low myself to save fuel. NO A/C Idle = 600-700 (not too much vibration) still ok A/C Idle = 600-700 - moderate rattling 700-900 - very significant ratting... the whole dashboardand steering go ta ta ta ta ta loudly 950 or 1100 rpm - rattling reduced again. How much you changed the mounting? Is the mouting change a labour intensive work? Maybe I wait until timing belt change, then do it together if so. |
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May 24 2017, 04:58 PM
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#3
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QUOTE(Exa_Bytez @ May 24 2017, 08:44 AM) I cant remember the price. I did it along with top overhaul. But as far as I can remember, after changing the mounting, the steering column still shaking. Hence I set the idle higher to minimize the rattling >1k ac off since my carb dont have ac on idle adjustment. For my case, the dashboard only rattle if I am not holding the steering. It's the same for me. The steering rattle but if I put my hand there, the rattle stop.That means steering rattle is not mounting problem?? |
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May 30 2017, 11:03 AM
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Jun 11 2017, 01:13 PM
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#5
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Is the Iswara petrol cap suppose to be able to close in air-tight condition?
Because sometimes I check the tyre and is near the gas cap, I can smell a bit of petrol. And also, for closing the lid, should we close it as tight as we can twist the cap? |
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Jul 9 2017, 01:35 PM
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#6
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I think most of the old cars will have part of the seatbelt turning into 'hairy' areas.
For me the part made the buckle stuck on a particular position on the belt. No problem with buckling/unbuckling, only that when in a rush to unbuckle, the spring is quite quick to spring back causing the metal buckle to hit the window. I wonder any risk that one day it might cracked the window. And any idea what to do with he belt to minimize the hitting risk? |
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Jul 17 2017, 01:35 PM
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#7
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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 17 2017, 09:02 AM) I have not changed my brake pads which are still the factory fitted ones, so I am unable to comment on this. Perhaps the sifus here who have tried aftermarket and performance pads could help out? I changed at some dodgy shop once... End up the tyre rims are showered with brake pad brown dust everyday... No sound or anything.. But I just felt unsatisfied about the dust issue.. so in the end purchased another set of ori pads from Proton... no dust since. |
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Jul 18 2017, 10:36 AM
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#8
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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Jul 16 2017, 11:17 PM) Albert, any brake pads brands suggestion? i use before proton original from factory and bosch one ( currently using ). I changed that many years ago.. probably less than 50. not sure about now.i want those brake pads will no produce too much noise when come to nearly stop. i hate the noise and the jerking feeling when it nearly hit stop. Other than bosch and proton ori, any other suggestion brands suit my terms ? |
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Aug 10 2017, 04:04 PM
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#9
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Anyone know whether unwashed empty engine oil bottle (with clean residue engine oil), is safe to store petrol during emergencies (eg. when ran out of fuel)?
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Aug 15 2017, 12:35 PM
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#10
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The iswara fuel tank outlet pipe is at the bottom most part of the tank?
Means there's no such thing as if the fuel gets too low, dirt get suck up etc? |
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Aug 23 2017, 12:58 PM
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#11
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Is there any need to clean anything inside the air-cond system on periodic basis?
Anything like the filters we have in room AC? |
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Aug 25 2017, 02:47 PM
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#12
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QUOTE(hawk1lo @ Aug 25 2017, 09:58 AM) for lmst we don't have a filter from the blower side to replace, i found that myself too (as mentioned by the mechanic also). Unless there's some filter under the dash there I think the no-filter is why is easier for Iswara / LMST to pickup those rubbish truck smells if following behind.For exterior clean the evaporator, other than that i not sure wat more can be done. For interior Clean the blower, clean the cooling coil, maybe replace the dryer if needed, expansion valve depends on what the mechanic say. Keep in mind that when cleaning up the cooling coil also might require dismantling the coil from the AC system which will need to draw out the refrigerant/'gas'. |
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Mar 2 2019, 11:57 AM
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#13
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If steering sort of wobble left and right when driving straight on slow speed what could be the issue? feels like the steering is wobbling or shaking left and right.. tyre balance? or something else?
and if acceleration on 2nd gear feels very restricted like cant accelerated enough to catch on to 3rd gear sufficiently what possible causes? it seems like the power doesn't really want to come despite hard revving at 2nd gear. 3rd and Fourth gear onward is fine but that's because I don't rev up to more than 2k rpm at this gears. Maybe I have problems with high revving cannot generated enough power but on higher gears the gear help to derive the power so I didn't perceived the sluggishness. This post has been edited by frontierzone: Mar 2 2019, 11:59 AM |
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Mar 8 2019, 02:30 PM
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Mar 8 2019, 02:31 PM
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#15
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QUOTE(Exa_Bytez @ Feb 28 2019, 10:21 PM) Hi guys. I plan to restore my saga 8v to its former glory aesthetically. Where can I find all the original parts particularly the tail lamp and all the interior plastic trim. Mine cracked and became brittle already. Also the front logo. I bought and installed one 2 years ago but now it had yellowed. Do you still use the stock Sydney Blaupunkt radio? That speaker system beats many low end stock music system today. Like those in Myvi, Saga BLM all sounds pretty lousy. |
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May 30 2019, 10:29 AM
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#16
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During U turn when steering turn maximum to right or during 3 point turn (max steering to right), during movement I can sense there like "tak tak tak" sound like something going to break. Haven't test this out exclusively but on random occasions I noticed this. What's the problem?
Sound likely from the suspension or some linkages to the tyres. This post has been edited by frontierzone: May 30 2019, 10:30 AM |
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May 31 2019, 10:19 AM
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#17
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QUOTE(Albert B @ May 31 2019, 09:47 AM) One of your CV joints have its rubber boot/cover broken Okay will have a check. Do I have to tilt the tyres sideways first before checking? If confirm leaks, is it urgent for immediate fix?and causing the grease to leak out and dirt to get in. If you look at the inside of the wheel you will see it as in the photo below. You need to replace the CV joint. |
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May 31 2019, 07:54 PM
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QUOTE(Albert B @ May 31 2019, 10:52 AM) Yes you can turn the steering to the maximum It seems nothing looks leaking on both inner and outer CV joints. Tilted both wheels to inspect and also open the hood to look at the inner CV. It's all dry and look intact.and look at the wheel suspension/hub assembly to see the CV joint. It is difficult to say how long the damaged CV joint will last; very likely it will fail while taking tight corners because this will flex the joint the most (thus the loud sound). I think it is better to replace it ASAP rather than wait and get stranded on the road (and who knows what other damage it will cause when it happens); anyway it needs to be replaced sooner or later. |
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Jun 9 2019, 11:46 AM
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#19
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Is it difficult to open the timing belt cover to have a look at the timing belt? How many screws have to be unbolted?
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Mar 28 2022, 01:43 PM
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#20
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Is it normal that when we follow behind cars throwing black smoke or when trailing an Garbage truck, all the foul smell enters cabin even though AC set to recirculation mode? Do I have a faulty recirculation/bring outside air valve mechanism?
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