Thanks for the info.

Yes, your new belt and the old one at 90,000 km doesn't
seem to have much of a difference, at least at the sides.

My last belt - I quickly changed it when I found out it was at 105,000 km
- the lettering had all gone, but the inner rubber and sides still looked good.

However, when I took out this old belt again last week for a closer examination,
I noted that on one of the teeth, the tiny metal strands (or was it nylon) were
fraying out.

Maybe that was minor, but I guess these strands ran along the whole belt
and would start peeling out further along its length with time.

I was told by James that Mitsuboshi belts were rated at 80,000 km, so
change at 60,000.

Moreover, Mitsuboshi is known to have fake ones on the market.

There was one guy called Wan on these forums selling parts online -
I called him a few years ago and he said his Bosch belts, made in
Singapore, are rated at 100,000 km. I think he was charging quite cheap
- only $50 or so ?


Have you had experience with Dayco belts ? Where are they made ?

Drain it out.

Have u change your petrol filter & air filter?


What bout yr aircond fan?

Is it urgent/necessary or alright to leave it as is?

for my case, i always put extra, add more than max line a bit, until now there is no problem. because lazy to drain out and put back again.

for your problem 1,

1. does ur petrol cap leaking ?
2. leaking fuel line ? got smell petrol after u stop the car ?
3. got morning or cold start shake ? ( mean auto choke and thermostatic vacuum need to check and service )
4. leaking vacuum pipe ?
5. got valve sound when u accelerate the car ? ( valve gap need to adjust )
6. petrol filter, air filter change ?
7. will your rpm drop fast after u accelerate ? ( distributor, spark plug cable and spark plug need to check, suggest to change spark plug 1st. )
8. black smoke when engine warm ? ( Incorrect air fuel mixture, maybe also cause by faulty auto choke as well )
9. lastly is faulty carburetor. ( i have no idea and experience fix this before )

1 to 8 had experience. 9 i think is only service the carb and change the part inside or just change the whole new carb only

ps, one more, when u change engine oil u can try engine flush from liqui moly. every time i use for 5000km change oil. it clean the clot from engine part. make the engine part cleaner run more smooth and save fuel as well. Or u just use fully synthetic oil 5w-40 ( do not use 5w-30 or lower grade which is not suitable for iswara engine ) which also help clean the engine part as well and can run about 10k km oil change

problem 2,

i think is normal. my black lmst even hotter under direct sunlight, they just cold down very slowly because old car don have heat insulator. if not try to check your blower.

This post has been edited by Kbbteoh: Apr 18 2017, 10:34 PM

Greetings everyone.

I would like to if anyone have the list for bulb to led replacement. It seems the image above is no longer exist.

Any performance issue with the above max line amount?
Like lesser acceleration or anything?

If want to drain out, need to open the plug down there slowly right?

Actually before this, with the normal level of engine oil I normally can feel sometimes during cruising on straight road, once in a while I can sense a certain unexpected power boost. But with this current level, it seems like sometimes there's a bit of resistance instead.

By the way, I am using 15W40 because mine doesn't consume engine oil. But the mech told me they normally give 20W50 for Iswara. I remembered back then I have always used 15W40 the yellow Helix from Shell. Once before I tried the red Helix which is 20W50, it feels like driving a truck with no power and loud engine.

This post has been edited by fortuner11: Apr 19 2017, 12:59 PM

performance issue, i doesnt feel any changes even put extra abit engine oil.

unexpected power boost may due to cut off of aircon.

20w50 is for iswara that facing the piston ring problem such as piston ring lose. more sticky oil make the rings more stick to the cylinder wall. reduce white smoke.
there is 15w50 fully synthetic oil which u can try. cost the same as 5w40. all function are the same only its more sticky oil for high mileage car. until now i know only pertronas and shell have this kind of grade oil

normally 5w40, 10w40, 15w40 and above all suitable. for iswara hot engine the oil must be in grade "40" which indicate at the last 2 digit of the grade indicator. grade '50' is for high millage car 150k and above. but if u complete overhaul the car just use back the suitable grade. i personally using 5w40 reason is my family member is well maintain which my family is 1st hand they use 5w40 all they way until now. 2nd, its clean the engine and protect the engine part. 3rd is its synthetic oil ( Ps i using shell helix i buy from 220 until now 248 i may consider castrol which cheaper, 220), 4th if use engine flush easy to flush out the dirt and clot out. 5th 110k km+ now engine still smooth and silent. 6th easy detect leaking only at cold engine if hot engine leaking than u will face a big problem. 7th, 10k service intervals save time but no save money

This post has been edited by Kbbteoh: Apr 19 2017, 03:04 PM

thank you for the in detail question.

1. Nope
2. Nope
3. No such problem even 5am start when im going back from office. just one start and then start drive back.
4. Not sure. Any way to check it from my side
5. Accelerate normal
6. Will ask the mechanic about this
7. Spark plug changed last november 2016. normal one. about rm60 i think
8. no smoke is visible
9. next service will ask him to check.

For oil, he always use shell semi syn hx5. For petrol. i strictly use caltex and per month one bottle of their petrol cleaner RM45.

i wondering what brand spark plug you use ? why cost rm60 ? use the normal one from proton cost only around rm30, bosch one cost about rm37 ( those are flat head spark splug). currently i using bosch, doesn't have different as previous using ori proton one. Do not use shape head spark plug, like NGK G-Power Platinum Spark Plug cost about rm60++ ( ps NGK iradium i never try before and its too expensive ). it doesn't burn all the fuel in the piston although driving doesn't feel any different . UNLESS u re-tune ur engine.

Petrol cleaner what brand u using ? i use liqui moly injector cleaner every 5k km only. do not use petrol treatment too offen, will cause damage to fuel system and burn ur wallet as well.

shell semi synthetic oil only have helix HX7. shell helix HX5 and helix HX3 is mineral oil.

This post has been edited by Kbbteoh: Apr 20 2017, 07:31 AM

Just wondering. What's the symptom for a faulty fuel pump for iswara?

Would at time hesitating to accelerate caused by it? It's like

Engage gear one.
Press and goes up to a certain speed then just hold there for awhile and then it continues to accelerate.

This happens on gear 1 - 5...

check throttle body shaft under the carburetor, is that go back to idle position after full throttle open. if is doesnt go back to idle mean u have jam throttle body shaft. check when engine is fully heat up, to prevent auto choke kick in.

Solution, just take WD-40 or something oil spray, spray the shaft both side.

if fuel pump got problem,
1. poor acceleration
2. sudden engine stall in certain rpm
3. unstable idle
4. Hard start. need cran longer time.

that's what i know and experience before.

1. As I understand it, the reinforcement cords are all non-metallic,
some nylon, glass fibre etc. Could you post a photo of the strands?
- it would be interesting to see a symptom for a worn out belt.

2. Those cords that run lengthwise, they seems to be visible in new
belts (photo below of new Gates belts in 2 Iswaras). It seems during
manufacture the belts are just sliced from large sleeves and thus
exposing the cords.

3. If you mean RM50 then it is very cheap. A few years ago when I
was shopping around for my belt replacement, a workshop offered
RM95 parts & labour and claimed to use a Proton original belt. I declined
as I was quite suspicious.

4. The problem is that fakes are not only affecting Mitsuboshi , I think
those counterfeiters will fake any of the big brands.

5. I am not familiar with Dayco or other aftermarket belts as the belt
replacement is such an infrequent event.

6. Attached is a Gates compilation booklet of the replacement intervals
- the magic number 60,000 miles (=100,000 km rounded up) appears in
almost all car makers.


Attached thumbnail(s)


Attached File(s)
 timing_belt_replacement_guide_raauto.com.pdf ( 2.71mb ) Number of downloads: 41

anyone know how to take off the dashboard piece that i circle ? only the top part of dash.
Thank you.


Attached thumbnail(s)

This trim piece gotta be very careful. Too much pressure or bending will cause it to snap (trim snap not clip snap), and proton doesn't carry anymore, last known price in system 280/380.

This trim is only held by clips. You can try to start with driver side, remove the fuse box cover, then reach your hand way up to one of the clips on the side the fake air con vent, feel the clips, and give it a push to unlatch the first clip. Then slowly work towards opposite. Do expect to break a few clips "stands".

If insists by "pushing out" the clips form below instead of normal "pulling/prying out method", remove the meter cover, push out another few clips, air con/radio panel, push out another few clips, then passenger glove box, push out the last few clips.

And also once the clip stands broke, I use epoxy glue to hold it and not long the clip stands will break free again. Then here comes another new rattling sound.

Suggest not to touch unless really neccessary as vehicle is a bit age the clips stands are really fragile now and just cant take any "new" forces.

Thanks for the info. Where is the throttle body shaft? Is it the square piece that opens and close?



that piece in between the four gold tube.

Another thing is, I'm looking for the middle piece long plastic that is situated in between the two rear light for my lmss. Can I mod the older version, the one with the reverse light to it? Sparepart shop say cannot and they couldn't find a replacement part for my car and it's cracked.

roughly this position. which connect to a throttle cable.


Attached image(s)

Macam very big project if wanna dismantle it myself...

You have experienced a leaking fuel line, could you share
some details:
- which fuel line, the location ?
- how you solve the problem?

I detect some petrol smell after a trip; so far the mechanic
does not think it is an issue when I asked him. I think this
should be checked because it could be a fire risk. I have
inspected and felt the tank/pipes around the area where
the smell is strongest but could not find anything.

I also heard from a friend his car (a Waja) had this problem
and he said he had it fixed in a specialist shop.