What items were carried out for the RM800, were there extra besides the usual valve grind/stem seals, gaskets...?

Headlight circuit should not be affected by the top overhaul, maybe the rattling affected the stalk switch at the steering column.

RPM meter wild behaviour could be due to the rattling, or the connection at the distributor which will be affected by the top overhaul.

When you say your car cannot be started, you mean starter not working, or have to crank many times to get it started?

Yours is the 8- or 12-valve engine? According to Haynes manual it is 800 ± 50 rpm for 8valve. Elsewhere info for 12-valve engine is 750 ± 100 rpm (from pdf manual - url provided at 1st page of this thread). If you wish to DIY adjust the rpm, below is the photo showing the screw to adjust (tighten to increase, loosen to decrease)

Was your mechanic aware of the rattling after he did the overhaul?

Yes it is possible the loose connection may be one of the causes of electrical mis-behaviour.

DId you not go back to the mechanic and pester him to make good?

Air-con is OFF position. see attached for another view.

Yes it is possible the loose connection may be one of the causes of electrical mis-behaviour.

DId you not go back to the mechanic and pester him to make good?

Air-con is OFF position. see attached for another view.

If I understand the photos correctly, your car appears to be originally 8-valve engine using
external ignition coil, and later it was changed to 12-valve engine using built-in coil in the
distributor. The external coil & ballast resistor can still be seen, but not connected as it is not in use. And it appears the carburettor is the old one. So my earlier posting pictures are not correct one.
From what info I got, the screw is as shown in the attached.

I believe should be air-con OFF, but I am not sure. Maybe you can experiment and see.
So far when I search the internet for info on Aisan carburettors, the most informative sites are in Russian.
e.g. : (where I got the diagram from)
http://japancar.pp.ru/japonskie-karburatory-48
https://www.google.com.my/search?q=aisan+28..._sm=93&ie=UTF-8

The page in English is scanned from Haynes manual.

==edit==
attached is the manual for your carburettor, in Russian. I believe there is an English version somewhere, but I can't find it....

I believe should be air-con OFF, but I am not sure. Maybe you can experiment and see.
So far when I search the internet for info on Aisan carburettors, the most informative sites are in Russian.
e.g. : (where I got the diagram from)
http://japancar.pp.ru/japonskie-karburatory-48
https://www.google.com.my/search?q=aisan+28..._sm=93&ie=UTF-8

The page in English is scanned from Haynes manual.

==edit==
attached is the manual for your carburettor, in Russian. I believe there is an English version somewhere, but I can't find it....

Prepared this a while back. The idea was to replace ALL bulbs to LEDs. Need to double-check the accuracy of the info though.

1. Not sure about this.

2. If the fan runs even when car is started with cold engine,
then it has nothing to do with the thermostat (the one at the
manifold). The probable causes are below, need to check to
narrow down the cause:
- a)  failed temperature switch at the bottom of the radiator
- b)  jammed relay in the fuse box
- c)  the mechanic shorted the temperature switch or fixed a
constant 12V supply to the fan to make it run all the time.

3. Better have the master pump checked at the workshop.

4. At that kind of mileage, probably the car would have been
through many cycles of equipment replacements and overhauls.
Starter motor, fuel pump, water pump, clutch,  all have been changed?

Should not be 20 turns to get a response. I am not sure about your FICD,
but usually it uses engine vacuum actuator to press the throttle. You can
observe its workings with someone switching the air-cond ON & OFF
and see if it reaches the throttle lever. On Iswaras, the adjustment screw
is quite small, the length won't be much more than 20 threads. (Probably
your FICD works in different way).

The air filter is quite dirty, change it.

I am not familiar with this FICD, I think it is similar to those
in the following links:

http://www.ben9166.com/2011/09/diy-install...for-better.html

http://www.diytacra.com/2010/11/ficd-fast-...rol-device.html

http://wirahybrid.blogspot.my/2013/07/an-i...rkshop-diy.html

It seems to work by altering the air intake at the manifold to control rpm.
This method is new to me.

Your intake manifold has some kind of device in place of a
thermostatic vacuum switching valve (TVSV), and there is
an extra vacuum hose apparently connected to this thing but
has been disconnected. If connected, I can't make out what
function it has.

The EGR valve is connected to the metal pipe which then
comes out at the other side to the TVSV.

It could be they have separated the TVSV like you said; I am
not familiar with this version of the Saga engine fittings. I looked
around the net and found some similar photos (see below) from
these sites:

http://z4.invisionfree.com/Saga_Iswara_Club/ar/t16144.htm
http://www.zerotohundred.com/newforums/sho...ad.php?t=426981

Vacuum line diagrams are not publicly available for the Proton,
so far I found only this site but the diagrams do not seem to be
applicable to the Saga. (Member Tham have traced the lines
in postings here some pages back)

http://alflash.com.ua/Vacuum.htm

That unplugged hose could be letting in air which may affect the
air/fuel ratio. What happens if you plug it back? Rough idle could
have many causes; it is possible to be from those open vacuum lines.
Even my Iswara has it but only for a minute or so from cold engine
start, despite a fully functional autochoke.

Maybe the sifus here can help shed some light on this.

The outlet tube is as shown below. It should be detachable so that you can clean the box outlet hole. I used to attach a garden hose to it and force water in for a few seconds, sort of reverse flow to clear  the block, taking care not to overdo it otherwise the water overflows into the cabin.

Guys, bad mounting causing the steering to shake / vibrate during idle.
Any long-term problems if left it unrepaired? Other than annoyance.

I set it low myself to save fuel.

NO A/C Idle = 600-700 (not too much vibration) still ok

A/C Idle =

600-700 - moderate rattling
700-900 - very significant ratting... the whole dashboardand steering go ta ta ta ta ta
loudly
950 or 1100 rpm - rattling reduced again.

How much you changed the mounting?
Is the mouting change a labour intensive work? Maybe I wait until timing belt change, then do it together if so.