no need ! it just located at bottom if the air filter housing. just spray on it only. no need disassembly anythings

Hi guys,
I'm a proud owner of lmst 07'. My car doesn't have power steering and it pains me to see my parents struggle when steering.

Is it advisable to convert to power steering? If it's possible, how much normally it would cost?

Thanks.

Spray the carb opening? Yeah I removed the air filter before. Another thing is, can we spray those tiny gold nozzle? Can those spray access the autochoke from carb opening or do I need to remove the autochoke?

Not cheap but well worth it. Mine converted since I got the car and that is like 02.

Mine is around the fuel filter area. Replaced the filter and tighten all the hose around that area, smell is gone.


This post has been edited by elementum: Apr 21 2017, 09:48 PM

i change all the fuel line at the front engine only. as u said mechanics say is normal but i felt its a risk fire as well. so i change it all except the fuel line from fuel tank to fuel filter. i didnt check exactly which line.

yes the problem is solve. no smell of petrol from front engine.

please do not spray on the tiny gold nozzle, do not spray anythings inside the air filter.

just spray beside the carb only

the spray cannot access to autochoke, since autochock is different housing from carb.

very sorry, i do not have the pic to show u. now i outstation.

How much did u pay for the conversion? Any recommendations for a workshop..unless you are staying outside of klang valley😅
Edit : ah sorry..misread. your car was already converted.

This post has been edited by sacremento: Apr 22 2017, 03:13 AM

Thanks for the comments.

In my case the petrol smell was at the left rear tyre.

I checked the filler cap, there was no smell there. Same for
the engine compartment.

In my friend's Waja, he said it was the metal pipe that has
a crack.

If mounting is bad, is it good to let the steering vibrate or rattle during idle?
Any long-term problems?
If I set the idle RPM higher the rattle will disappear.
Can I just leave it rattling (don't care about the noise for now)?

1) "Dieseling"?
https://www.google.com/search?q=%22Dieselin...chrome&ie=UTF-8

Some members here reduce it by letting the radiator fan run
to lower engine temperatures before switching off the engine. Some
says that a long outstation trip on a highway may combust away
the carbon deposits that is one of the causes. Or decarbonise the
combustion chamber through overhauling or by using certain
decarbonising cleaner. Note that other things like overheating
lean mixture, timing etc can be the cause.

2) That problem needs some testing to narrow down the cause : -
is it drag from rear brakes etc, or from engine, or transmission.
Sometimes the parking brake lining sticks to the drum especially
if parked for long periods or after driving through flooded roads.
Does it happen all the time? Does it occur only when engine is
cold?

3) This one is strange, I have never encountered the handbrake
handle releasing by itself, or needing frequent adjustments. Does
the spring at the button feel very weak? Maybe the thread for the
knob adjustment has worn away allowing it to 'jump' thread?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Apr 24 2017, 03:07 PM

My gas pedal got stuck. Izzit caused by cable or others?

Changing my saga flx tyre (all 4)

is ecopia recommended for my saga flx?

since i have it in persona, is fine.

wanna try it on saga

This post has been edited by lansi_raju: Apr 25 2017, 03:19 PM

Switch over to 97 petrol for a couple of weeks and see how you do.

95 octane has been described as even worse then the old 92.

There was some discussion here or in other forums about this.

The petrol companies are cheating us. I believe the octane rating
is more like 90. They are using additives to try to mask for this.


Or you could buy those "Octane Boosters" additives from parts shops
and add in half a bottle every tankful.

However, many of these use MMT, a manganese-based formula, which
will color your spark plugs orange and clog up your carburettors and
catalytic converters over time, I was told.

Your rear drums' cylinders may be jamming. There will also tend to
be lots of powder from the pads in there.

Can also be due to water/rain as Albert said, if you have driven over water
on in heavy rainfall. Quite normal.

Take to the mechanic and ask him to open them up to take a look.

Make sure you don't use Bosch, made in China. They won't last
more than a year or so.

I bought Bosch, gave the mechanic to replace. One lasted a year and half,
the other, 6 months.

Ask him to take a look at your handbrake cables and the detent knob
on the handle. Sometimes the knob or button can be replaced, like in
my old Toyota.

In the Saga/Iswara's case, I was told that the whole handle has to be replaced.

my 2007 lmst got the same problem no.1 . i call it as engine want die but cannot die

dieseling is quite normal problem, due to petrol issue.

another method can try if u found dieseling. try do not switch off the engine directly after a ride. after stop, switch off air con and all electrical accessories, wait the engine drop to lowest rpm about 10-15 second ( should be lower than 1k RPM, normal is around 850 RPM ) than should be ok.

if your engine still runing higher than 1k RPM than dieseling happen will be higher chance.

if not due to petrol issue than dieseling may due to too rich mixture.

guys, my FC improved abit after changed the worn out clutch plate. from 265km to 300km full tank.

What else can be done or this is it the max ?

Please advise. 80% city 20% highway

How much Ur mileage now ?
1st time change clutch plate ?
Will u feel stiffer or softer when u press on the clutch pedal ?
What brand u using ?

PS I have never change my clutch plate before since my family got it 1st hand 2007 until now.

Yesterday I accidentally drove past a pothole and it was a deep one. I think the suspension was fine but there was some kind of fluid leakage at this part of the engine bay from this part



The rubber thing seems to be torn apart and the fluid inside leak because my dad has an LMST as well and the rubber part on his car does not move whereas mine moves. Any idea what is that part and how much is it gonna cost to replace it?

odm drive shafts, around rm180-220 iinm

If that's the driveshaft then what is this one near the firewall? The one circled in blue



This post has been edited by ricko99: Apr 29 2017, 12:20 PM

Steering rack boot /cover.