Wanna check with you guys. My meter cluster faulty and I don't wanna replace them. Anyone got any lubang for those white mirage or rvr meter convert to our car?
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!
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Mar 2 2017, 12:02 AM
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#1
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Junior Member
41 posts Joined: Jan 2015 |
Wanna check with you guys. My meter cluster faulty and I don't wanna replace them. Anyone got any lubang for those white mirage or rvr meter convert to our car?
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Mar 13 2017, 05:12 PM
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#2
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41 posts Joined: Jan 2015 |
Just wondering. Anyone has actually dismantle the whole distributor and change the oil seal in it? I've replaced the o-ring and there are still some leak below it.
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Apr 2 2017, 10:38 AM
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#3
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QUOTE(Tham @ Mar 25 2017, 01:31 PM) That oil seal is in the inner shaft and quite difficult to take out. Yeah. I saw a distributor laying around at my mech's place, there is a pin to remove from the shaft, then only you can access the oil seal. Not many mechanics know how to do it. Ah Keong in Cheras says it is risky as the plastic parts in there are flimsy and might fall apart, so he says you better get a used one from the junkyard ready as a spare first if he were to dismantle it for me. Edmond, the other mechanic in Sentul, says the seal can't really be replaced and they normally ask you to get a new distributor. Ah Tee, the aircon man, says he has done it before with 80 percent success rate. He charges $80. He is in Jinjang South. Ah Tee says the seal has to be hammered out. My first one leaked, so my brother-in-law gave me his son's distributor, an original APM, which he had mistakenly replaced with a Taiwanese one earlier when he thought it was malfunctioning. I used it to replace mine, but that started leaking too after about a year. According to both Ah Tee and Ah Keong, the leaking oil won't really affect the electronics inside, so you can leave it alone. I was thinking of solving all the oil leak problem around my engine and the last part to solve was the distributor. Replaced quite a number of stuff the past few weeks including drive shaft long and short, lower arm, clutch plate + clutch cable, valve cover, timing belt, aircond compressor + it's filter and hose + that ufo looking device that goes up and down when the compressor kicks in, all the belts, absorber links, steering bushes, flywheel seals, gearbox oil change x 2, radiator to two layer, plugs, and a few more I can't remember. the car has not started and run for a year. the only leak now comes from the distributor, replaced the O ring for the distributor myself, now thinking whether to replace the whole thing, why not just dismantled it and replaced the damn oil seal. I've already bought the oil seal. Now sourcing for the pin puncher... now the temperature is slightly high, middle of the bar, probably due to the teksi pakai sae40 oil i bought to see whether there is oil leak or not. planning to replace the headlights, the sarung and the front bumper, then i'm done with the car. This post has been edited by elementum: Apr 2 2017, 10:41 AM |
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Apr 2 2017, 11:02 PM
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#4
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QUOTE(Tham @ Apr 2 2017, 06:00 PM) Wow, you did all these repairs yourself, including replacing Lol. Nah. How I wish. Some basic maintenance, no problem, but all these beyond my expertise. Got a mech to work on it. But it is running well now. For a 400+k km clocked on a 15 year iswara aeroback se, I'm actually very happy with it. Engine still runs fine. Oil leak minimize to the distributor. I was leaking a pool each run to the shop due to the leak from the flywheel seal. Lost like 3 liter in 1k km run.the clutch ? Must be very skilled and experienced. Mechanics these days charge a lot for car repairs, and many do not do a good job either. Maybe I should look for you one of these days. |
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Apr 3 2017, 05:36 PM
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#5
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QUOTE(Tham @ Apr 3 2017, 11:03 AM) Yes, I was told that flywheel oil seal leaks a lot when worn. Yeah. I have the mech do everything at one go. Clutch set, clutch cable, clutch switch and seal, bearing, flywheel oil seal, lower arm and the drive shaft plus the absorber link and also steering boot coz the mech say since going to do the drive shaft, do together since it going to involve the Gearbox. I was quite surprised it was still the ori clutch seal was original from day one though I had them replaced at 200+k. Some mech are seriously asshole....My last car, the Toyota Corolla, the oil really gushed out below the gearbox when driving out from this shorty (and cocky) mechanic shop's in Sri Hartamas, below my office years ago, after some other repairs, years ago. Since he had spotted it for me, I let him replace it for me the next day, as a mark of gratitude to him. My usual mechanic in Cheras at that time, Ah Keong had not replaced it for me at the same time he replaced the clutch a couple of years before that. No wonder this air con man in Jinjang, Ah Tee, said you must replace the flywheel seal at the same time as the clutch, especially if you do not do that much driving, since the clutch will tend to last longer then, but the seal itself will wear with age. Did you replace the driveshaft oil seals at the same time as the clutch and flywheel seal ? The boss in AME Parts, Simon, when I went to buy the clutch disc, diaphragm, bearing and all three seals from from him recently, asked me whey I was buying the two driveshaft seals as well, since those normally do not leak and lasts a very long time. This post has been edited by elementum: Apr 3 2017, 05:38 PM |
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Apr 20 2017, 09:57 AM
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#6
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41 posts Joined: Jan 2015 |
Just wondering. What's the symptom for a faulty fuel pump for iswara?
Would at time hesitating to accelerate caused by it? It's like Engage gear one. Press and goes up to a certain speed then just hold there for awhile and then it continues to accelerate. This happens on gear 1 - 5... |
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Apr 20 2017, 11:36 AM
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#7
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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Apr 20 2017, 11:06 AM) check throttle body shaft under the carburetor, is that go back to idle position after full throttle open. if is doesnt go back to idle mean u have jam throttle body shaft. check when engine is fully heat up, to prevent auto choke kick in. Thanks for the info. Where is the throttle body shaft? Is it the square piece that opens and close?Solution, just take WD-40 or something oil spray, spray the shaft both side. if fuel pump got problem, 1. poor acceleration 2. sudden engine stall in certain rpm 3. unstable idle 4. Hard start. need cran longer time. that's what i know and experience before. ![]() that piece in between the four gold tube. Another thing is, I'm looking for the middle piece long plastic that is situated in between the two rear light for my lmss. Can I mod the older version, the one with the reverse light to it? Sparepart shop say cannot and they couldn't find a replacement part for my car and it's cracked. |
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Apr 20 2017, 06:12 PM
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#8
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41 posts Joined: Jan 2015 |
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Apr 21 2017, 09:47 PM
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#9
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QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Apr 20 2017, 11:29 PM) no need ! it just located at bottom if the air filter housing. just spray on it only. no need disassembly anythings Spray the carb opening? Yeah I removed the air filter before. Another thing is, can we spray those tiny gold nozzle? Can those spray access the autochoke from carb opening or do I need to remove the autochoke?QUOTE(sacremento @ Apr 21 2017, 07:00 AM) Hi guys, Not cheap but well worth it. Mine converted since I got the car and that is like 02.I'm a proud owner of lmst 07'. My car doesn't have power steering and it pains me to see my parents struggle when steering. Is it advisable to convert to power steering? If it's possible, how much normally it would cost? Thanks. QUOTE(Albert B @ Apr 20 2017, 08:40 PM) You have experienced a leaking fuel line, could you share Mine is around the fuel filter area. Replaced the filter and tighten all the hose around that area, smell is gone.some details: - which fuel line, the location ? - how you solve the problem? I detect some petrol smell after a trip; so far the mechanic does not think it is an issue when I asked him. I think this should be checked because it could be a fire risk. I have inspected and felt the tank/pipes around the area where the smell is strongest but could not find anything. I also heard from a friend his car (a Waja) had this problem and he said he had it fixed in a specialist shop. This post has been edited by elementum: Apr 21 2017, 09:48 PM |
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Apr 30 2017, 09:06 PM
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#10
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QUOTE(sacremento @ Apr 22 2017, 03:11 AM) How much did u pay for the conversion? Any recommendations for a workshop..unless you are staying outside of klang valley😅 It was done by my dad circa around when I got the car, like probably 15 years ago. That time it's around Rm600 i believe or somewhere there. Never had any issues except I had to replace the rack once. Motor is original from day one and never had replace the oil before until lately I decided to change the oil myself.Edit : ah sorry..misread. your car was already converted. QUOTE(Kbbteoh @ Apr 21 2017, 10:22 PM) please do not spray on the tiny gold nozzle, do not spray anythings inside the air filter. If accidentally spray into the small tiny gold nozzle, what will happen? just spray beside the carb only the spray cannot access to autochoke, since autochock is different housing from carb. very sorry, i do not have the pic to show u. now i outstation. In that case, I've already service the carb. Found that the carb opening a little sticky. Can I use WD40 on that piece of metal that opens and close? QUOTE(Albert B @ Apr 22 2017, 10:32 AM) Thanks for the comments. Check the fuel line. Probably somewhere got crack or leak. Get a mech and do it.In my case the petrol smell was at the left rear tyre. I checked the filler cap, there was no smell there. Same for the engine compartment. In my friend's Waja, he said it was the metal pipe that has a crack. QUOTE(darjana @ Apr 30 2017, 12:47 AM) and guys, today i have some problems. after long distance driving from penang to ipoh and back, my engine oil already exceed 92195 and now its 92230. while about 92200, the car vibrates badly if reached 80kph so i maintained 60kph and then when i reach a hill which is steep (balik pulau, penang), suddenly lose power and the temperature icon light goes off and come back within 2 sec. then for safety of other cars, i go side n use gear 1 only to climb and safely reach my shop. i checked the engine oil. seems very cair but my mechanic say its normal. then off the car for 30min n then tried drive again with same testing above 80kph, none of the problem persists again. oil doesn't make such problem. try check your carb/fuel filter/spark plugs.please advise. need to wait till tuesday . QUOTE(ricko99 @ Apr 29 2017, 05:15 PM) OK thanks for the info, have to ask my mechanic the cost of replacing the driveshaft then. Typical kl potholes always burn my wallet around rm160 each long and short minus workmanship. consider replacing the flywheel, the oil seal and some other stuff since you are going to remove the gearbox as well.This post has been edited by elementum: Apr 30 2017, 09:12 PM |
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Apr 30 2017, 09:14 PM
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#11
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41 posts Joined: Jan 2015 |
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Apr 30 2017, 09:15 PM
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#12
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41 posts Joined: Jan 2015 |
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May 2 2017, 12:13 AM
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#13
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41 posts Joined: Jan 2015 |
QUOTE(darjana @ Apr 30 2017, 10:27 PM) it didnt. if its did, sure i go buy the same oil n topup till this tuesday which is due for service. im very beginner on this thing coz previously the car is owned/operated and maintained by my bro. recently it passed to me and i started to spend changing some things for more smoother drive. the bulb might be burnt. 90k plus is quite low. mine is already 400k plus....anyway for now, its settled after some mechanic offer me to refill the thing n assured me shud be fine for moment and advise me to check for leaking and weekly monitor. ask the mech to raise the car and see where the leak comes from... |
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