Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

Forum Announcement

Please keep your account's email current. http://lowy.at/chgEmail

253 Pages « < 2 3 4 5 6 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

> Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

views
     
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 06:33 PM)
You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls.

If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment.

I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.
*
definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol...
I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car laugh.gif

btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value.
i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day

much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries.
maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knock rolleyes.gif
though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me laugh.gif

btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol
empire23
post Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM

Team Island Hopper
Group Icon
Staff
9,416 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 12 2014, 06:46 PM)
definitely will need to save up for the tuning equipments... everything don't come cheap and at the end of the day one would wonder if it's even worth it for a puny 100hp 4B10 lol...
I'm actually thinking of something like a scooby for my next car, but that's something to be explored maybe 7 years later or if i strike lottery or something since i just started out with my new car laugh.gif

btw, the ECU also compensate knocking not only via ignition but AFR as well? damn that could explain the commanded AFR values despite the mapping specified 12.8 to be the lowest value.
i do know that the ignition advance did not went as high as i had on that previous screenshot i @ ping'd you that other day

much thanks for the info bro, that definitely help solved a few mysteries.
maybe next dyno i'll go drug up the car to prevent knockĀ  rolleyes.gif
though, i either wasn't sensitive on the knocking, or the knock sensors/compensation was done so perfectly it totally slipped past me laugh.gif

btw prepping the supermarket car for the parents? lol
*
Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor.

As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it.

Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help laugh.gif

My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang.

This post has been edited by empire23: Aug 12 2014, 07:42 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 12 2014, 07:51 PM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(empire23 @ Aug 12 2014, 07:40 PM)
Well the Tactrix OpenPort can be used with a lot of vehicles. Subaru included and so can the WBO2 sensor.

As for the ECU compensating, well, it's an unknown quantity at this moment as you're only editing stuff via the CANbus, the logic is still up to the ECU itself and that's the hard bit. Just like how the Evo X switches between 3 maps, nobody knows how the interpolation on map selection is done by the ECU, we just try our best to mod around it. 

Best you can do is log things and see how it affects other variables. And of course take what I say with a grain of salt, I'm no expert on Mitsubishi ECUs or any car based ECUs for that matter. Although if you need help with GM DELPHI, E-Controls and other industrial ECUs, I can help laugh.gif

My parents say they want to come in December. I oso say ok lah, but I wanted to clean the car up before I serviced everything. One of those syiok sendiri things. Diff, transfer case, engine, power steering, brake and gearbox oils all changes with a fresh set of plugs and with a very shiny car. Feels good mang.
*
if anything i know there 2 separate MIVEC timings just for hot/cold coolant temperatures, god knows how many other variables are there (eg: the 3 maps you mentioned)

your information has definitely helped me understand a lot of things in the past/now so definitely appreciate them thumbup.gif

and yes, that's what most car guys do, no? *coughdetailingthreadcough*
efaceninja
post Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
12 posts

Joined: Apr 2005


anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 26 2014, 07:59 PM)
anyone used any radiator coolant flush product before?
*
used this from Eneos:
user posted image

but as i google i found :
http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf

probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol

anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
efaceninja
post Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
12 posts

Joined: Apr 2005


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
user posted image

but as i google i found :
http://www.prop65daily.com/Litigation/Peop...ncorporated.pdf

probably why they seem to be so hard to google these days, company closed? lol

anyways if your car is still new, just replace the coolant more frequently if you don't want risk that may come from coolant flushes.
*
the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket. not sure how frequent it changed. and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. tongue.gif well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. rclxub.gif now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell. so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
TSQuazacolt
post Aug 27 2014, 09:21 AM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(efaceninja @ Aug 27 2014, 08:58 AM)
the car i intended to use on is old car, the coolant so far i believe has been using RM 6 coolant off the shelve of supermarket.  not sure how frequent it changed.  and i think there was a period it was filled with plain pipe water only.. tongue.gif  well, back then i was not knowledgeable as now.. rclxub.gif  now i plan to replace it with those long life one from shell.  so before that, was thinking of giving it a flush first.

hmmm, what risk here you referring to? you mean it may harden the seals or dislodge a clogged hole (make the hole reappear and leak)??

also, i've discovered that radiator flush coolant product are a lot more rare than engine oil flush.
*
ya pretty much what you've mentioned on the risk.

it's a given actually, radiators are a whole lot cheaper to replace. maybe 300-600 for the average radiators?
an engine is in the thousand, so products tend to focus more on the engine where else radiators? spoil/leak/corrode/clogged etc just get new? lol.

of course you could just replace coolant more frequently, use distilled water only and so on and they'd probably last many long years until you need to deal with clogging/corrosion] and even then replacing one still probably wouldn't be a killer.
efaceninja
post Aug 30 2014, 09:54 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
12 posts

Joined: Apr 2005


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Aug 27 2014, 03:50 AM)
used this from Eneos:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
lols saw your blue cloral radiator flush at one of the Acehardware store. and many others brand.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

zionanubis
post Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
27 posts

Joined: Jan 2007


using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image


my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 2 2014, 03:06 PM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.
*
if worry, change the oil filter on the 6 month and top up accordingly.
check the engine oil condition/level via dipstick every month
711726
post Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
444 posts

Joined: Dec 2008


QUOTE(zionanubis @ Sep 2 2014, 01:54 PM)
using this oil for my weekend car.

mobil 1 5W-30 EP

user posted image
my car, Civic FD1 (R18A) engine.

feel little different with honda OEM oil ( honda service package 5w-30 eco friendly oil )

is it really can push up till 1 year, only oil exchange ?

i'm weekday driving, 1 month maximum run about 450~500KM

500KM X 12mth= 6000 ++ km for a year.

icon_question.gif
*
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
empire23
post Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM

Team Island Hopper
Group Icon
Staff
9,416 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.

user posted image
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:40 PM)
Reorganized my oils and everything into a proper shelf in the corner of my room.

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol

our plastic bottles looks kinda plain sweat.gif

=edit=
high5 on megs/turtle wax tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM
empire23
post Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM

Team Island Hopper
Group Icon
Staff
9,416 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 04:43 PM)
notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif  notworthy.gif
those metal can 300v packaging look damn nice lol

our plastic bottles looks kinda plain sweat.gif

=edit=
high5 on megs/turtle wax tongue.gif
*
I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore.

Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle. When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue.

I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 3 2014, 04:51 PM)
I think the plastic bottles are the older Double Ester technology, I used to get those. The new stuff that comes in a can is called EsterCore.

Most fluids I hantam and use as required, then restock, the only thing I skimp on is the Castrol SRF Racing. 340 ringgit for 1L bottle.  When feeling cheap I use Penrite SIN, Motul RBF660 or ATE Super Blue.

I don't detail the car much these days. I'm not home very often.
*
neh ester core:
https://plus.google.com/+JasonLimQuazacolt/posts/3pv5ZxGdhUX
from motul's site they still run both metal/plastic packaging
my ester core 300v are year 2013 production batch (assuming the date looking formatted numbers are the production dates) and since 300v stocks for Malaysia runs damn slow (i'd assume), year 2013 batches are still circulating around lol

Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw?
not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me:
http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html

it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang...
haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options.

well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
efaceninja
post Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
12 posts

Joined: Apr 2005


QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM)
well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
*
in kitchen too? cool2.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif whistling.gif
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 4 2014, 11:14 AM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(efaceninja @ Sep 4 2014, 09:05 AM)
in kitchen too? cool2.gif  whistling.gif  whistling.gif  whistling.gif
*
And living room lol
empire23
post Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM

Team Island Hopper
Group Icon
Staff
9,416 posts

Joined: Jan 2003
From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Sep 3 2014, 05:14 PM)
Hmm i've been recommended on ATE brake fluids, how are they btw?
not too interested in the super blue racing fluids, just their ultra low viscosity SL.6 intrigues me:
http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes.../bf_sl6_us.html

it being DOT4 and still able to have better temperatures/viscosity rating and yet still being cheaper than motul DOT 5.1 i've just recently purchased to bleed my brakes for this upcoming Sepang...
haven't come across them locally though, so still looking around the internet/options.

well my detailing products are just sitting there for the most part... i mean the last time i washed my new car (or any car for that matter lol) was months ago sweat.gif
*
ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close.

Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around.

This post has been edited by empire23: Sep 5 2014, 08:54 PM
TSQuazacolt
post Sep 6 2014, 04:24 AM

Riding couple
*******
Senior Member
4,415 posts

Joined: Jan 2007
From: KL Malaysia


QUOTE(empire23 @ Sep 5 2014, 08:53 PM)
ATE's SuperBlue and Type 200 are pretty good. The SL6 is ATE's offering for high performance driving but I've never used it before as Superblue isn't that much more expensive. Have used Superblue on the Evo X previously but preferred the pedal feel from Castrol's React SRF. Otherwise they're pretty damned close.

Yeah I hardly detail these days, just an autowash and a vacuuming when I get back and before I leave for site. Just serviced the Evo today, she feels good to drive and the engine runs as it should with the 300V 5W-30, flushed it with LiquiMoly Engine Flush as well but might use a light weight flushing oil the next time around.
*
hmm in regards to pedal feel, would it's viscosity property be it's major contribution?

assuming so, would you prefer thinner or thicker viscosity?
i have a personal preference for lighter viscosity in almost everything, and in regards to brakes, the braking feels so much sharper. Not to mention more precise clutch controlling as the brake/clutch shares from the same reservoir/fluids.

will definiftely check out castrol, they should be easier to get around here i'd reckon?
i had a choice for motul's RBF and DOT5.1, the pricing was as you said (for the ATE anyways) damn similar, only opted the DOT5.1 in the end because of the much lighter viscosity especially on cold starts slow/half clutching.

btw any reasoning on avoiding engine flush and opting for light weight flushing oil? which sort of flushing oil would you be referring to? most hdeo seems very thick in viscosity from the top of my head.
zionanubis
post Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM

New Member
*
Junior Member
27 posts

Joined: Jan 2007


[quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM]
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? brows.gif Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2 thumbup.gif
*

[/quote

wow RM140, where u get it ?

dont mind pm the that seller? smile.gif


so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15?

noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~

thumbup.gif


253 Pages « < 2 3 4 5 6 > » Top
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0212sec    0.88    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 2nd December 2021 - 07:58 PM