Personally I feel that the majority contribution to pedal feel is compressibility, viscosity is less important. What I look for ultimately are the wet and dry boiling points, wet being the most important as it determines the stability of the fluid in the long term and its ability to function when subjected to real world conditions. I'm not worried about cold starting temps because it primarily acts as a hydraulic fluid.

ATE's fluids tend to last 1 or 2 track days due to their formula being less able to reject the effects of moisture but it is well known that Castrol's SRF Racing will only need 1 or 2 changes per season. Also the wet boiling point is about 100 degrees higher.

My logic behind my preference for a flushing oil (my definition is : Oil used as an intermediary to flush rather than a purpose made flushing oil) is simply because if I'm going to put new expensive engine oil in, it is probably better for it to go into a cleaned engine, free from any old leftovers. So I'll probably use some cheap oil and filter, give it a hard drive and then service it quickly with the much more expensive 300V and high perf filter.

[quote=zionanubis,Sep 7 2014, 01:33 PM]
[quote=711726,Sep 2 2014, 10:33 PM]
Can feel immediate punchy feel right? Bought it on offer on Ramadhan ~RM140, used it on my mum's saga LMST, can tarik kaw2

[/quote

wow RM140, where u get it ?

dont mind pm the that seller?
so your saga LMST, 4G13 or 4G15?

noting happend with 5w-30? sure powerful + smooth ~



[/quote]

Bought it at Tesco Seremban on sale haha. My mum's LMST has the 4G13 engine. Planning to pour the same oil into my wife's Myvi. Tried eneos semi syn 5w30 and petrocanada semi syn 5w30 as well, but the eneos was better. Can't wait to see what will the mobil 1 does to the myvi's engine

This post has been edited by 711726: Sep 7 2014, 11:57 PM

i see, so overall it would be a deal of trial and error i guess? (what fluid provides what sort of compress-ability/pedal feel)
my experience from switching over to the 5.1 (not even a full drain, merely bled the brakes and top up with the 5.1) is that the clutch feel during cold starts are very precise and doesn't "lag". as i lift of the clutch gradually the engagement is very precise compared to previous, either the car barely moves and if i lift off more i'd over do it and the horrible "manual transmission jerks " will surface as the rpm dipped too low.

SRF = http://msdspds.castrol.com/bpglis/FusionPD...RF%20Racing.pdf ?
the viscosity on both cold/100c is almost double against bosch/motul's 5.1 fluids

i guess this make sense then? it's a bit hard on the layman/consumers if there's no actual compress-ability tests/data spec to compare with

I see i guess that does make sense on the flushing part. At least you won't have any left over engine flush that *may* deter the performance of your new engine oil.


thanks for the insights as usual bro

I usually attribute the lack of bite in clutch during cold starts to the friction material of the clutch itself rather than the fluid for clutch actuation. My remedy is to simply feather it for 5 seconds until the material heats up. But I guess it might be different in a Mitsubishi CJ based car as both brake and clutch share the same reservoir. My old R34 had independent reservoirs.

The SRF is more viscous but it is an ester based fluid rather than a polyglycol one. Thus the pedal feel is spongier due to compressibility being higher. Castrol have obviously tweaked the formula to limit this issue greatly, but it will be slightly different to your standard high performance based poly fluid. But otherwise its performance under stress is extremely good.

ah good info as always
really tempted on the SRF after all the info you've provided... btw regardless of what castrol mention, would there be any issue mixing silicon ester (ya that silicon keyword is a worry) with regular glycol based fluids?

on my FL, proton ady updated recommend use 10w30.

they changed the booklet or something? or got official letter/announcement?

=edit=
i actually stand corrected as iinm matrix pointed out to me the booklet for inspira is actually just a copy from mitsubishi's manual and it is also recommending 0w20

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Sep 10 2014, 03:38 PM

got supplementary @additional printout. stating use 10w30. later i dig-out the print out.

great information bro
will help to put on page 1 since we do have a lot of proton/campro users on LYN

New engine oil in town,welcome to get it from me and try it to believe it,

any info on certifications that can be publicly queried such as the API?

mind elaborate what kind of little different u felt?

i tot u will do all the research,

https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...dName%3Dmaxxoil

supplier told me that starting from 2015,nascar and global time attack will have their billboard on it,we shall see...

from the link, the brand name and products don't match at all.

noticed how they did not put the proper API donut/star burst logo and i believe it's because they are not certified.
Considering they are supposedly a US company, they would get into serious trouble putting the API donut/star burst logo if they aren't actually certified

Just started using Motul 8100 x-cess engine oil for my diesel engine. Very hard to find real quality engine oil for diesel engines especially those suited for performance.



https://www.motul.com/gb/en/products/oils-l...100-x-cess-5w40

So far it makes the diesel engine feel quite smooth as compared to the standard ones which the dealership provides which are normally Castrol 5w-30.

as i've been told,they are in the process of putting all of the products into the api directory,and they will separate the company,of course,not sure whether they are bull shiting anot,i can only wait for next year.....so far the semi i gotten from them have the vw and mb approval,mean while other brand semi oil rarely has the approval number,so if is true,i am on the right bet...

but then,how about this picture??



This post has been edited by Mahihi: Sep 14 2014, 10:36 PM

is that for the products listed from that "olein" company? if not then it could be a serious breach of trust.

perhaps i can inquire further with maxxoil, see what they say (as what i've done to Torco/Liqui moly )

Can't use this on my car

No LL-01 or LL-04 rating....

ya lo,olein aka OLIN,lol....

eh,help me ask2,i scared kena tipu leh,

i can oni afford semi for now,their fully selling price for the customer is at least RM 220,