So a TBN of 7.8 is low? But too many factors to consider as I read through all those technicals.

My usual workshop mechanic reckon should try w-50 for better
top end & can reduced lifter noise..not sure about fc part might be worsen or better...

Heard some owner of 4G93, engine will get better top end power band & lifter noise reduced also..

Btw, I saw tesco offered RM139 for Mobil1 5w-50..tempting get 1

well API SN specified within 6.1-8
so 7.8 is just right.

also depends on how you drive as well and what OCI you're practicing.

try different brand/model of lubes, not thicker viscosity.

Try Penrite 5W40 HPR or their premium range. Confirm will reduce lifter noise. Don't know how it does it.

Thanks for the interesting info

Btw, i came across these 2 today.



Seems cheap. whats the normal price btw?
Any owners have any feedback using them on a 4B11 and 1NZ-FE? which is the better of the 2?

300v 15w50 for your 4B11T?

For a good 60k kms, I was happy with TorqNM's VM155 15w50 until my friend decided to close his business. Currently running on Synergie 6100 15w50 and not really happy with it.

no comments on the 1NZ-FE engine as i'm not worthy.
for 4B1x, i'd prefer to go xw20 strictly.

however if you're ok on xw40, consider this instead thanks to nzh0920

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69341868

ori price is rm230-240ish.

That's the last natural gas pureplus base stock collaborated with Pennzoil.

he ran with xw20 on regular roads and xw30 for hard tracking usage iinm

How about 30 viscosity? Thinner & lighter?

Thanks for suggesting bro 😊
managed bought Mitsubishi Fully Syn 5w-40 from Aeon today RM119 costed slightly more than those forumer selling here..

This post has been edited by Klemann C: Aug 11 2014, 11:21 PM

assuming the original specification was xw40, sure why not.

although even 4g15 was ORIGINALLY specified to be xw30 from Mitsubishi Service manual i dug up some time ago. Proton called xw50
considering you mentioned Mitsubishi engine... who knows eh lol

xw-20, I wanna try it long ago for its lighter properties. Just don't know which one therefore have been using 5W-40 all the way. For K20Z2 by the way.

That's 20 weight higher than what Mitsubishi recommends. Unless you're driving Le Mans 24hrs or some form of endurance racing with elevated temperatures with a requirement to maintain very stable oil pressures, that's too heavy and you'll never get the temps high enough for the oil to pass through the squirters and journals at the right rate.

Essentially if you don't drive it hard enough, an oil at that weight will wear your engine faster. Also being a MPFI engine, you won't have problems with dilution, which means your oil weight more or less stays the same. 15W is quite thick upon start up and thus unless there a strong ester or metal "clingy" additive, you will experience more wear upon start up as Mitsubishi recommends a maximum of 5W all year round for summer conditions with 0w for winter.

and there you have it!

ps: AFAIK proton recommends 10w40 for the inspira so...

That's within the range of Mistubishi's recommendation but 10W is as thick as you'd go upon startup if you want acceptable engine wear. That's I usually don't go any higher than 5W. 40 weight is quite heavy but still within the 10+- rule of thumb I use.

But going 50 is outside that rule and thus the oil would have a seriously hard time squeezing past those journals and tiny oil passages.

Anyways ordering 8 litres of Motul DCTF now. Nearly 200 dollars or 600 ringgit. Need to service the Getrag DCT in the car as well. Filter oso mahal.

4B11T maybe, 4B10/4B11 recommended is 0w20 and it's +20 heavier.
it's a NA econ box afterall

hmm 8 liters for rm600 (75/l, somemore things at Australia seems a lot more expensive in comparison) doesn't seem all too bad.
i'm paying like rm50/liter for Motul's ATF 1A
seem like the way to go if i'm letting go of lubegard platinum additive. That, and my favorite Caltex ATF-J price hike (maybe i spread the word too much on LYN and caltex got wind of it, like Techron concentrated additive)

I think that's the new recommendation but it isn't due to a technical concern, it is because Mitsubishi had to satisfy the CAFE (Corporate Average Fuel Economy) for most of its cars sold and a lighter oil helps it do that. Proton doesn't need to satisfy CAFE laws in the US.

The Evos don't have a renewed recommendation because CAFE is sales weighted. Meaning the cars that sell the most are the most affected.

Thus I'd try both 0W-30 and 0W-20 and get UOA analysis done on them to determine which is best for what. As you have no turbo to contend with, but your clearances might be more/less due to many factors as the 4B11T uses Mahle's forged hypereutectic pistons in a 2618 alloy. But being within the range you can't go wrong.

I usually buy all my DCT lube from the US or Europe. Too mahal here. Motul DCTF is nearly double that price I buy local. If I buy Mitsubishi DiaQueen SSTF-1 (rebranded Castrol Transmax Dual), it is 500 dollars for 8 litres from Mitsubishi.

aye that's pretty much my reasoning on sticking with the lightest viscosity within Mitsubishi's range.

My UOA did show a bit high wear despite the additives, but hey who knows if they are the ones causing trouble instead? lol
then again the lab guys weren't concern about the wear i'm experience due to the engine being very new and i do trash it very hard.

btw once i can confirm on some figures i'll post my latest dyno...
it's as you said, the ecu seriously did richen itself insanely despite the richest value on the remapped is 12.8 AFR
OBD already shows commanded AFR being 11.5-12 so it definitely due air filter stuck or air starvation... i actually double checked the drop in box to confirm there's no dead rat sitting in there

ah that pricing is not from AUD? then yea it is rather pricey, though being in the limited DCT market, i guess it cant be helped

Cheam@C&R Autocare Glenmarie carries Motul DCTF. Cant recall the exact price, but was told its lesser than RM100 if I recall correctly. If my 20L pack of HKS cannot reach in time, its either Motul DCTF or Millers.

Well noted and thanks for the heads up on Mitsubishi's recommended grade of engine oil.

btw glad you happen to stumble across this thread also, hopefully i get to see you in action personally during Sepang
bro empire23 is in Australia i believe and his Evo X is now a supermarket car

do give it a go with lower viscosities; You've been missing out a LOT on your 4B11T man
heck i'm a lowly 4B10 and i've been really happy on it's rev happy nature with 0w20 EO's since day 1

You'll have high wear for your first UOA and it progressively gets lower as everything fits in. As for your tuning I'd suggest sitting down with a WBO2 sensor and tuning up everything after a few pulls.

If you're going rich, I'd check the knock value and see if it is the ECU compensating for knock. Also check your ignition time. I believe that investing in a Tactrix OpenPort 2.0 cable for logging while you do your WOT pulls might be a wise investment.

Motul DCTF is about 25 dollars a bottle over the internet, I'll buy it and it'll probably be here once I get back from site. Hopefully. The filter isn't too hard to find as there's an equivalent Ford part number for it.

I just cleaned the Evo today and wiped all the leather down with cleaner and conditioner, Kyrtoxed all the rubber seals and essentially left it in top condition. If I come back in 3 weeks and the car is dirty, somebody's gonna get hurt real bad.