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 Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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empire23
post Oct 9 2014, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM)
nicer than the current bmw?  shocking.gif
all my jelly lol
*
It'll be cool. Obviously not BAC Mono cool, but still cool nonetheless.
OC4/3
post Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM)
Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month.

The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find.

Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year.
*
Nicer as in Porsche?
Cayman/Boxster??
reddevils10
post Oct 10 2014, 11:36 PM

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Has anyone tried ConocoPhillips EO before? Saw the 76 Super Synthetic Blend 5w30 going for RM21.50/Quart on the forum.
Tempting...
empire23
post Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM

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QUOTE(OC4/3 @ Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM)
Nicer as in Porsche?
Cayman/Boxster??
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Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe.
OC4/3
post Oct 11 2014, 03:20 PM

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QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM)
Nop. Was thinking about a Cayman S with all the added goodies, but I already have a coupe.
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Then which Porsche??

y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM

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hello all sifus!

I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly

I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions?
grade wise, and of course, good engine protection!
thank you!
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM)
hello all sifus!

I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly

I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions?
grade wise, and of course, good engine protection!
thank you!
*
Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true, consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM)
Check your manual,  I believe someone mentioned xw30
If that's true,  consider trying out 0w20

Then there's budget,  for run of the mill,  there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres

Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended)  is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres

There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out.
I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres

If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page)
They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres
If you want some certification like api,  then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series.  Yes f***ing miles not km)
Should be a bit cheaper than signature series
*
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM

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wait...
300v RM340/4L?

Can tell me where you buy?

TSQuazacolt
post Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM)
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
*
The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.
it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol.

i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade.
there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20.
personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem.

SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page)

200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend.
the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well.

Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20.
example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process smile.gif

you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil.
he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement.
worse case? DIY.

QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM)
wait...
300v  RM340/4L?

Can tell me where you buy?
*
hmm should be a typo, 350++
but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing sweat.gif
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM)
The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.
it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol.

i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade.
there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20.
personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem.

SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page)

200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend.
the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well.

Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20.
example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process smile.gif

you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil.
he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement.
worse case? DIY.
hmm should be a typo, 350++
but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing sweat.gif
*
Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?

TSQuazacolt
post Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM)
Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?
*
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Eng_Tat
post Oct 12 2014, 02:41 PM

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hi all, want to ask which grade of eo is suitable for 2.4 Alphard for Malaysian weather? 5w/30 10w/30, 5w/40 or 10w/40? many thanks.
y4ng
post Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM)
Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 12 2014, 03:13 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM)
Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice
*
you're welcome smile.gif
y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM

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yo sifus! chemlube anyone?

thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1)
TSQuazacolt
post Oct 13 2014, 02:05 AM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM)
yo sifus! chemlube anyone?

thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1)
*
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Name%3Dchemlube
my only worry is that locally available/distributed chemlube are not on the "CHEMLUBE PREMIUM GOLD FULL SYNTHETIC" label unless the gold color bottle is "premium gold" unsure.gif

that and the lack of 0w20 is enough for me to say no.
That said, i have however used their gear oil on my kancil 660 MT and experience have been very positive.

i had my chemlube gear oil accidentally drained when i replace 1 side of the drive shaft and as workshop help me topped up regular gear oil, the gear shifts feels like shit instantaneously doh.gif
very hard to get into gear especially when it's cold.
since my sis is driving it, unless she's willing to fork out the money to get chemlube gear oil back, i'm not going to bother tongue.gif
y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 08:06 AM

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Hmmm i was comparing the specs, seems more or less like sr1. Think i will try one round of sr1 before going for chemlube. Any fake torco out there? I am a bit worried to buy from LYN forummers sometimes when it comes it EO.
peejayboy
post Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM

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QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM)
fast reply hehe!

i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn?

motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges

for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan.
*
Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents biggrin.gif


y4ng
post Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM

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QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM)
Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.

Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30.

As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that.

Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents  biggrin.gif
*
hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now..

just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad?

so what oil are you using currently?







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