QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 9 2014, 11:22 AM)
It'll be cool. Obviously not BAC Mono cool, but still cool nonetheless.Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids
Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids
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Oct 9 2014, 03:34 PM
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory |
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Oct 9 2014, 05:31 PM
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Elite
4,746 posts Joined: Dec 2007 From: Speed rule |
QUOTE(empire23 @ Oct 9 2014, 07:22 AM) Because it is 50 bucks a litre. Which is somewhat unjustified for a car that is only driven 3 times a month. Nicer as in Porsche?The OEM Diaqueen SSTF is merely a rebadged Castrol BOT341/Transmax Dual, but it's a lot harder to find. Plus I might be selling the X to fund a nicer car at the end of the year. Cayman/Boxster?? |
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Oct 10 2014, 11:36 PM
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Junior Member
83 posts Joined: Jul 2011 |
Has anyone tried ConocoPhillips EO before? Saw the 76 Super Synthetic Blend 5w30 going for RM21.50/Quart on the forum.
Tempting... |
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Oct 11 2014, 07:47 AM
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Staff
9,417 posts Joined: Jan 2003 From: Bladin Point, Northern Territory |
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Oct 11 2014, 03:20 PM
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Elite
4,746 posts Joined: Dec 2007 From: Speed rule |
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Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
hello all sifus!
I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions? grade wise, and of course, good engine protection! thank you! |
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Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM
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Senior Member
5,366 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:36 AM) hello all sifus! Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30I am driving a neo cps manual, currently using semi syn Liqui Moly I wanna change to fully syn, looking at torco or motul...any suggestions? grade wise, and of course, good engine protection! thank you! If that's true, consider trying out 0w20 Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out. I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page) They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km) Should be a bit cheaper than signature series |
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Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 12:47 AM) Check your manual, I believe someone mentioned xw30 fast reply hehe!If that's true, consider trying out 0w20 Then there's budget, for run of the mill, there's Motul h tech 100 plus. About 180 for 4 litres Torco SR1 (i also highly recommended) is more performance oriented however they go for around 240/4 litres There's also motul 8100 series although I haven't tried them out. I have and is currently on their 300v and my god those double esters are smooth! Not cheap though at about 340/4 litres If you're looking for insanely long oci, look no further than amsoil signature series (which I have included uoa on first page) They go at about 180 to 200/4 litres If you want some certification like api, then scale down to amsoil OE series which also guarantees damn long oci as well (iinm 15k miles instead of 25k miles compared to signature series. Yes f***ing miles not km) Should be a bit cheaper than signature series i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn? motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan. |
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Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
wait...
300v RM340/4L? Can tell me where you buy? |
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Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM
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Senior Member
5,366 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM) fast reply hehe! The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last.i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn? motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan. it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol. i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade. there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20. personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem. SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page) 200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend. the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well. Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20. example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil. he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement. worse case? DIY. QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 01:08 AM) hmm should be a typo, 350++but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing |
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Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:34 AM) The R's aren't API SN certified though, and i doubt they'd put any more detergent/additives for to have the oil last. Anytime u r buying 300v? Maybe gatal wanna try hehehe....can share where u buy please?it's as per advertised, for racing purposes, however there's always the SR5 or better racing oils so i'm assuming for the more budget conscious racers perhaps? lol. i use xw20 or xw30 because in malaysia, there's no winter, and w is basically winter grade. there are MINOR differences on the overall viscosity if you check the data specs, so generally i prefer to go a slow as possible, such as 0w20 instead of say 5w20. personally i prefer to go as thin viscosity as possible (if manufacturer says xw30, i'll go 10 lower to xw20) depending on manufacturer. AFAIK Campros are either xw30 or xw40 specified, so xw20/xw30 is no problem. SR1's (or ANY reputable full synthetics especially API SN certified ones) have absolutely NO issue on 10k km, i did 14k km or 16k km afaik (may refer to my previous posts or the ones i saved on first page) 200 ranges i believe the Motul 8100 series would qualify although i've never used them before so i can't personally comment/recommend. the amsoil/torco SR1 all fall into your budget as well. Filter don't last long? no problem! half way down the oci cycle you're free to change the oil filter! can diy or send to workshops paying rm10-20. example: your oci is 20k km, at 10k km just replace the oil filter only, and top up any oil loss during the process you pay mech rm20 also you'd STILL SAVE money in the long run as you only spent 1 time engine oil. he tulan rm 20? go other mechanics. there's plentiful of places who'd gladly accept a quick buck for a quick oil filter replacement. worse case? DIY. hmm should be a typo, 350++ but then again i pretty much bought in bulk and the bill was way over 1k+ to get better pricing |
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Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM
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Senior Member
5,366 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:26 PM) From Zhapalang at kepong http://www.zhapalangmotorsport.com/2010/06/contact-us.html |
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Oct 12 2014, 02:41 PM
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Senior Member
2,215 posts Joined: Nov 2007 From: Cheras, KL. |
hi all, want to ask which grade of eo is suitable for 2.4 Alphard for Malaysian weather? 5w/30 10w/30, 5w/40 or 10w/40? many thanks.
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Oct 12 2014, 03:08 PM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Oct 12 2014, 01:58 PM) Thank you! Kepong quite near to where i work maybe i drop by if the price is right =) thank you fr your great advice |
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Oct 12 2014, 03:13 PM
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Senior Member
5,366 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
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Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
yo sifus! chemlube anyone?
thinking of bulk and chemlube in my range hehehe (cheaper than sr1) |
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Oct 13 2014, 02:05 AM
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Senior Member
5,366 posts Joined: Jan 2007 From: KL Malaysia |
QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 13 2014, 12:25 AM) https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Name%3Dchemlubemy only worry is that locally available/distributed chemlube are not on the "CHEMLUBE PREMIUM GOLD FULL SYNTHETIC" label unless the gold color bottle is "premium gold" that and the lack of 0w20 is enough for me to say no. That said, i have however used their gear oil on my kancil 660 MT and experience have been very positive. i had my chemlube gear oil accidentally drained when i replace 1 side of the drive shaft and as workshop help me topped up regular gear oil, the gear shifts feels like shit instantaneously very hard to get into gear especially when it's cold. since my sis is driving it, unless she's willing to fork out the money to get chemlube gear oil back, i'm not going to bother |
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Oct 13 2014, 08:06 AM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
Hmmm i was comparing the specs, seems more or less like sr1. Think i will try one round of sr1 before going for chemlube. Any fake torco out there? I am a bit worried to buy from LYN forummers sometimes when it comes it EO.
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Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM
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Newbie
1 posts Joined: Apr 2012 |
QUOTE(y4ng @ Oct 12 2014, 12:54 AM) fast reply hehe! Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that.i am looking at Torco SR-1R 10W-40, cos my engine overhauled once (cos 1st owner sucked at maintaining), should i go for lower grade? 30s? 5W or 10W dont really make a diff right? i change at 10k when i use fully syn? motul, used by proton's R3 team as well correct? too expensive for RM340 >.< I am looking at 200++ ranges for amsoil, erm malaysia's proton filter kenot last that long, so using so long good meh? lazy go to mechanic as them replace oil filter nia, sure he oso tulan. Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30. As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that. Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents |
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Oct 13 2014, 04:47 PM
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Junior Member
639 posts Joined: Oct 2007 |
QUOTE(peejayboy @ Oct 13 2014, 04:30 PM) Tried and tested Motul H Tech 100 + , honestly there is nothing to shout about where it degrades right after 4k km and engine is terribly rough after that. hmm okies thanks! i have placed an order for sr-1 for now..Try and use Idemitsu fully synthetic 5w30, Syntium 5000 0w30, Total Quartz 9000 5w30 or Torco SR-1 5w30. As for me even if i use fully syn oils, my OCI are always 5000km/3 months or maximum 7000km/5 months. Not anything longer than that. Fyi, Proton oil filter is not that bad in terms of their quality. And usually thinner oil provides better overall lubrication and since you do not redline 24/7, there is no reason to use thicker oil. Just my dua cents just wondering, u r using neo w r3 extractor but u sold off your 1.5 myvi for it? before i bought my neo cps i was looking at 1.5 myvi manual is it that bad? so what oil are you using currently? |
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