Wax can. But sealant not too sure. Perhaps not.

eh guys.. wanna ask noob question..

how am i gonna different out which is WAX, which is SEALANT?

can i have example on below this

Mags' Ultimate Liquid/Paste Wax
Mags' Cleaner Wax
Mags' M16

Thanks

The ultimate useful articles:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/hot-to...ishing-wax.html

http://www.meguiarsonline.com/forums/showt...different-waxes

Thanks for the info bro..

coz im reading the thread Car Care & Detailing V1.. they mention hafta use Sealant (M21) and then top up with Wax (GC).. thats y it confuse me awhile on my detailing toys..

but do we need to do that? i was thinking use either 1 (M21/GC) will do then just top up with Quik Wax when is possible..

correct me if im wrong.. newbie learning..

This post has been edited by mirage81: Feb 26 2014, 02:38 PM

The ultimate use article on topping:

http://www.autogeekonline.net/forum/how-ar...ed-topping.html

As for need or not. That is subjective.
Like what the article says, unless you do a test session and then compare the result, otherwise there is no way to tell with concrete evidence that your eyes sense a difference.
But as long as you feel good then go ahead and do it, no harm, other than spending some extra money. I always say overkill is completely fine LOL.

Your choice of using M21 first then top with spray wax is a method too.

Speaking about wax, two weeks ago I applied Meguiars Ultimate Paste Wax on my black coloured car which already had Autoglym's HD Wax since before CNY. Ease of application is not bad for a paste wax. Can streak on the bonnet if not applied evenly and easier to remedy. Gives very dark glossy wet look with just one application. I also found that not much dust sticks onto the car body as I managed to wash the car with ease last weekend.

On my wifey's dark blue coloured car, I decided to top up on top of the existing Autoglym's HD Wax with Meguiars Gold Class Carnauba Plus liquid wax last weekend. I noted that it's like a cleaner wax because my application pad got quite dirty pretty quickly. Very easy to apply. No streaking and the results are very satisfying. Need for next weekend to see if the car body collects dust and if it's easier to wash the car.

This weekend see got time or nt.. gonna shop for Sealant wax to keep stock. my small bottle Ultimate Liquid Wax from New Car Kit guess gonna finish soon. temp only have Mags M16 as for my 2nd wax only..

Guys, scoutfai Quazacolt KrisMas
Regarding my case that I posted before at #1074

Bought the EZY touchup paint already, I would like to ask, after washing & drying up the area,
Can/Should I apply the Turtlewax Scratch & Swirl beforehand or straight apply EZY touchup paint following their steps provided?

Aside from that, just curious

this picture? http://imgur.com/NkxSTBY

for the lighter ones maybe can try the turtlewax scratch & swirl first. however for obvious chips such as the bottom/last image, don't bother, just ezy touchup first.
for that one, you can consider sanding down the paint scraps that's poushed aside to the right else the finishing won't be good.

- yes should be just clearcoat.
generally, scratches you can't feel with your fingers are considered very light and clear coat only damage. those that you could, will really depend on the situation.
from your image though it was quite clear that it's gone all the way down to the primer/base metal already.

- for ALL sanding/compounding/polishing, it evens out the SURROUNDING surface to the same level. so eventually, you WILL be thinning out your clear coat and eventually once it gets too thin you will need to do a full paint job/respray.

only glazes/fillers will have "coat" (not exactly coat per say) being applied, or rather fillers being applied to FILL the defects/scratches. it's a temporary hiding/masking and once it wears off the scratch/swirl will re-surface again.

Like a women with her makeup on (filler) to cover up their wrinkles and pimples. Lol...

Oh, nice info.
Thanks

Autoglym's HD Wax as I know is highly expensive/luxury wax I never used it before I am unable to comment on it sorry
But Meguiar's Ultimate Paste Wax and Meguiar's Gold Class Paste Wax I used both before. Actually still using.
I agree with you on the characteristics you observed for both of these Meguiar's products. Gold class wax will be even more beneficial on dark color car, so you should be able to gain the most from Gold Class wax by using it on your wife's dark blue car.
Gold class wax is a natural wax product, so it does not last long. I think maximum one month you have to re-apply already. Its water beading effect is not as strong as other Meguiar's product too. As for dust attraction, I deem it attracts dust quite easily, but I think that is then nature of most carnauba wax product.

If we define SEALANT as something contains absolutely no natural wax content in its composition, and WAX as something consists of naturally occurring wax substance such as carnauba wax up to certain % ratio (you can never have 100% carnauba wax, because it is a solid, unusable). Then, by this definition (only by this definition), Meguiar's Ultimate Wax is a sealant, not a wax, though it has the word "wax" printed on its bottle for marketing purpose.
I actually read from Meguiar's forum that this is indeed the intended purpose because if they label it as sealant, most likely the sales will not be as good as now as average joe consumer do not understand sealant as well as wax.
Meguiar's NXT Wax by this definition is also a sealant, which Meguiar's has agree on this statement in their forum, the word WAX printed on the bottle is solely for marketing purpose.

Nevertheless, you do not have to agree on this definition. There is no detailing police who legislates the use and definition of various terminology in detailing.

Post some pics bro.

Bring someone along to safeguard your wallet or be prepare to shop till drop XD
BTW Meguiar's FB page states that they having 10% sales at 28 Feb at AEON.
So grab your chance.

bro Quazacolt has covers it completely for you! I agree on what he said.

If you are first time user, practice first on a hard plastic surface, to have a feeling of the viscosity and adsorbability of the touch up paint.

Not sure about what tools you have, I will do as follow:

1) Detergent wash the area.
2) Use the supplied Wax and Grease remover and wipe on the scratch and chip using the supplied brush.
3) IPA wipe again if you have IPA. You should have super duper clean area by now. Bare paint or bare metal or bare fiber glass expose to you only.
4) Shake your touch up paint thoroughly. Use a sharp tool, like toothpick, to apply the touch up paint from the bottle to your panel. Use dab motion, brushing motion is just not practical from my experience. If you have very large area then maybe you can consider using the supplied brush. Otherwise, toothpick is always good start.
5) It is better to have one time process only, i.e. once you dab a location, do not re-dab if you feel you didn't do a nice job. You either wipe it away completely (easy while it still have not dry) or wait till this layer of application sufficiently dry, then re-dab 2nd time, then repeat 3rd time, till you cover the area sufficiently thick.
6) Now here is the tips, if you do not have tool to level down the blob of touch up paint, it is better you dab till it almost level then stop. Doing so will not provide a level, smooth touch up job but because you do not have the tool (like polisher) to level the blob later, it is better to stop at there first. You can always wait till you acquire the tool then re-dab again.
7) if you do have the tool, then dab till it forms a blob of touch up paint. Wait it dries for some weeks. Then sand it down level, polish it back to shine.

You can get the surgical purpose IPA wipe cotton, sold in pharmacy like Guardian, piece by piece one. For small touch up job like yours several pieces will be sufficient. nevertheless this step is optional. I use it cause I so happen have such cotton wipe from my dad due to his medical need.

Use hair dryer to blow the area if you feel you need to re-dab. What is sufficiently dry? dry till when you lightly dab again with toothpick, it will not cause a mark on the touch up paint. So test this on a sample first. Experiment (I trial and error so many times, it is fun).

The Ezy Touch Up paint is very fluidity, so when you dip the applicator (brush or toothpick) into the touch up paint and lift it up then bring it to your scratch area, remember do not breath too strong, you will accidentally blow some drop of touch up paint on the neighborhood area of the panel. Wear a mask to prevent strong flow of breath air if necessary.

I provide some videos on two different touch up jobs of some reputable detailer, one with feather edge technique, one without:







Please be reminded, your car color is light color, so the shadow edge of the scratch will be easily visible even after you put the touch up paint. It is really very difficult to have a perfect touch up paint job on a light color car. So do expect it will not look perfect, because a perfect job is most likely only possible with re-spray. Nevertheless, few feets away should still give your car a better look than before touch up.

I myself still struggling to touch up perfectly for my metallic silver car so I can only comment till this stage. Be dare to experiment and always use your common sense and natural instinct when you doing your touch up job. Whenever you feel unhappy with the result, you can always wipe the touch up paint away using some kind of solvent (or the wax and grease remover provided in the kit), best use with a cotton tipped applicator.

Remember to share before after pics

This post has been edited by scoutfai: Feb 26 2014, 10:39 PM

im getting a fresh respray for my whole car. what should i do the first few day it is out? should i go polish and wax it asap or wait for a few days to let the paint cure first then only polish and wax? other treatment i missed out? lol, sorry im noob here. :>

Alright, Got it!
Thx for the steps by steps guideline, very informative.

Seems quite a hassle, gonna stay calm & apply. HaHaa~

Oh yea! Mayb will try seek out for M21 and looking Mags glass cleaner..

It could be days or weeks process. So patient is the key. Do not rush. When in doubt, take pics, stop, go online, ask question seek help, then re-try again. There is really no reason to rush especially when it is such a delicate job.

Another reminder, the touch up paint after dry will tend to shrink in size a bit. Says now you dab it till it forms a blob while still wet. You might expect after it dries the blob still there but the truth is when it dries, the blob will either disappear becomes back a valley or not as high as you first see it when it is still not dry. So re-visit your result after some time of curing to see whether the dried touch up paint has reaches to the depth and level you want it to be.

Forgotten to tell you the 10% discount is for Aeon member privilege only. So you got to have Aeon member card.

I think you will not find mirror glaze line of product in Aeon. Try Home Fix instead. Aeon just carry consumer range product and even so they do not carry all the consumer range neither.

Good luck in shopping.

Or can try Duragloss products...cheap cheap...still got some more from my friend's 'shut-down' stocks...