Edit : double post

This post has been edited by terryfu: Feb 22 2014, 03:56 AM

For so many times I pass through this building, I only see Ferrari, Porsche, Lamborghini parks there.
The least luxury cars I seen there are Benz, BMW, VW, all top class series, no VW polo.
Base on this information, guess-estimate the price yourself.

But this detailing shop carries good reputation of delicate workmanship. So I guess you are getting what you paid for, but the question is can you get similar workmanship from a cheaper alternative.

Look forward to hear you sharing your experience after detailing there. Take pic please.

It's been fun reading from V1 to V3. Many information gather. Newbies checking in. To the otai otai, have you guys heard before Wellson brand? Is a Japanese products. Google high and low for a review but only a few appear. Wellson PS coat that claim 1 year of durability.

Never heard before.
Show us your user experience please.
But Japan indeed has a lot of great stuffs for detailing. The only problem is they are all printed in Japanese, which is why it does not get so popular in other country who communicate in English.
Guess I need to learn Japanese Language 101. Watching Naruto only taught me few terms which is completely irrelevant to detailing.
Korea too has great stuff. But then, only printed in Korean. To understand the user manual is already headache, let alone discuss it.

btw, Otai Otai means?

This post has been edited by scoutfai: Feb 22 2014, 04:31 PM

Will get one of the PS coat to try out.
OTAI otai means sifu sifu sekalian. Lol.

hey guys, can i refurbish my signal lights? i already refurbish my headlights with sand paper and clear lacquer spray paint can i do the same to my signal lights?

car model is honda accord sm4
http://images03.olx-st.com/ui/20/06/06/133...rd-SM4-Vtec.jpg (not my image)
signal lights is the one below in orange colour

Hi guys is waxing can be done everytime whenever I like? Or it will damage the surface? Also what is the recommended time to do another waxing session after the 1st one? I guessing a few months?

You mean Willson coatings. Saw a few types in Autobacs Klang. One local enthusiast did some comparison tests but can't remember his conclusion. Will come back after I read through his post again.

Yeah...same principle for surface defects as on headlamps.

Can do as frequent as you want to. Just make sure the paint is clean and the applicator pad stays clean during use. During 'waxing' the applicator would clean up some dirt from the surface...change pad immediately when the pad gets too dirty.

If you are using pure wax, i.e. non-abrasive content wax, be it synthetic (i.e. sealant) or natural wax (i.e. carnauba wax), then as KrisMas bro has said, you can do it as often as you like.

If you accidentally trap hard particle between the applicator foam pad and your paint surface, then yes it can create scratch, I think this is common sense though. Just be caution.

As for time of application in between each wax session, it is highly subjective and on a case by case basic. Assuming you referring to a daily driver, drive around Klang Valley, park in outside more than 50% of the time. Wash weekly using good quality shampoo. Clay before wax. In between wash you do not boost the wax with spray wax or quik detailer, I will say as a rule of thumb for pure carnauba wax at most one month, for sealant, maybe 3 months (depend on brand).

Easiest way of determining whether you need a new layer of wax application is to observe water beading. If it has deteriorated to a level you feel unsatisfactory even after a wash, then re-apply. Overkill is completely fine.
Nevertheless, lost of water beading effect to naked eyes does not necessary equals to lost of wax layer existence and wax protection. To confirm on existence of wax layer on top of paint surface, you need to perform at least what Meguiar's call Squeak Test.

Like a car CSI….

Because good car wax so expensive so only can afford to use it in the most cost effective way.
I look forward to ur coating experience sharing.

did you wait 3-5 minutes?

also the red residue/color change is due to the chemicals reacting to the iron/metallic particles from brake dusts.
if you're not a person who hard brakes all the time/having performance brake pads or rotors, chances are you won't be getting much of those red/black ish color change.

maybe past 10ys havent so much detailing shop~
and not so much ppl know abt detailing

only knew that POLISH POLISH POLISH~
wash & vacuum~

getting bosch ROB soon, would like know do i need to get a pad for it? or i can use the default pad coming with the ROB for waxing. For polish any pad recommended? prefer online shopping its so hard to find those "poison" you guys recommended.

[quote=KrisMas,Feb 22 2014, 07:39 PM]
You mean Willson coatings. Saw a few types in Autobacs Klang. One local enthusiast did some comparison tests but can't remember his conclusion. Will come back after I read through his post again.

Yes, the Willson coatings that seems very easy to apply.Just spray on and wipe/buff off. Just like some spray on wax method.. Guys…Just went to Tesco and saw this Sonax High Speed spray on wax (Red bottle)..Any review on that?

This post has been edited by cashloke: Feb 23 2014, 03:40 PM

experienced some hazing/residue with BSD too.

from my observation:
- surface have to be really clean.

- from the surface that i re-apply meguiar's ULW, the hazing is a lot less/easier to buff off

- surface that have dirt/spots that my washing missed will be a b**** to deal with

- when wiping/buffing off, apply light to no pressure so that you don't squeeze more BSD to the surface and you have to re-buff off again.

- as you apply BSD on the MF/surface, the cloth itself will begin to bead as the product sets in. consider multiple cloths when working with BSD to save time as the product will just bead itself off the cloth after long usage.

comparison with Meguiar's Ultimate quik (spray) wax:
- much more viscous/thicker, easier to apply on straight/vertical panels as it doesn't drips off very fast

- much more glossier, which i think it's due to the more concentrated formula (more viscous)

- the thing beads off the cloth that i am applying it with, so it probably work better than megs

- very picky on surface

- unable to perform wipe on and forget, definitely need to wipe on/wipe off (or buff off, rather)

- the spray bottle is very bad at misting lol
and if you're unable to mist, applying concentrated form on cloth can be a b**** as it beads and rolls off the cloth, potential drip/mess

same goes to panels, if it drips to panels/spots that you just buffed, guess what, buff again lol.

=edit=
after reading your previous posts, you actually used 2 cloths and experienced problems? good guess is dirty surface.

because i only used ONE piece of cloth on my entire car (Proton Inspira, not a small car by any means)
and yes, the last few panels were a nightmare as the cloth is damp/saturated


update:
yeah the wheel cleaner i gotten this time (with the rim coating package) does not turn red
i tried my current Sonax Xtreme Wheel cleaner plus full effect, it does turn red a bit (well it's the 2nd time spray so there aren't much brake dust/residue left)

it smells a lot more pleasant than the one i got (yellow'ish in color, then turns red)
however doesn't seem as effective as there is still left over brake dust/residue? definitely need a bit of agitation with tool.

reminds me of meguiar's wheel brightener, very similar effect/strength and smell.

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 24 2014, 05:14 AM

You should be able to buy some online from Duraglos Malaysia web.

Can you quote the part number. I'd like to do some digging. I was curious when Reza told me the liquid inside was clear instead of the neon/florescent yellow like the one I have. Thanks.

Yeah, in fact, I think I waited for more than 5 minutes because I was waiting for the red "substance" to appear

Nothing has been changed to the brakes or tires since the day I took it out of the showroom and I'm not a person who brakes hard but the thing is, the last car wash I had was a week ago but the surprising thing is, I "was" expecting to see some "red" but nothing, I mean "nothing"

by "surface have to be really clean" meaning free from contaminants or just a normal car wash? I applied the BSD immediately the car wash and a proper wipe.

in respect of the application, I employed the mentality that my car paint was made from tofu :haha: I just very lightly spread the BSD and then buff it off softly. I initially though the hazing was due to the improper buffing and the BSD just stayed on.

I had two cloths though, one to spread and another to buff.

:hmmm:

will do, will update again once i get home

preferably free from contaminants.

from my regular wash experience, some spots the shampoo didn't clear, it'll be hard to apply BSD.
on the spots that i re-apply wax, very easily. almost effortless, VERY NEAR wipe on and forget experience.

well i did flip the cloth around very regularly and basically the entire surface/both sides were utilized. that and my car's relatively clean as it's a weekend drive

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Feb 24 2014, 12:06 PM

https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonLimQuazac...sts/VR5EqWv1Vv5

Detailed since yesterday midnight till early morning:

- Sonax Xtreme Wheel cleaner plus full effect
- Meguiar's gold class car wash
- clayed the rims with clay cloth + Turtle wax F21 car shampoo as lubricant.
- Touch up on front bonnet with Poorboy's black hole (refer previous post on doodle: https://plus.google.com/u/0/+JasonLimQuazac...sts/Xg2st9qWpZi )
- Re-apply Meguiar's ultimate liquid wax on front bonnet/roof/rear trunk hood/bonnet
- Meguiar's headlamp protectant
- Sonax Brilliant Shine detailer
- Sonax Rim coating
- Meguiar's Endurance tire gel