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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion Thread Ver.19, D7100 announced weeeee~

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alpha_company
post Mar 2 2013, 08:28 AM

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QUOTE(Decky @ Mar 2 2013, 12:25 AM)
Thanks for the reply dude.

I'm not sure if the dust issue is still prevalent, but Nikon USA has announced that they have sent instructions to nikon repair centres to fix the issue apparently. So even if I do encounter the dust problem, I'm assuming that Nikon will fix it for me without much hassle. I've actually done quite an in depth research on the D600 vs my other alternatives such as a 6D or 2nd hand 5dmkII and d700 and found that the d600 suits my needs the most. So yeah.
as for the focus shift issue, yes I've read that the lens does have it. But isn't it more of an issue with your copy of the lens and not the lens itself? As in, can't you send your lens back to Nikon for fixing?
*
Like ifer said, it's true. It's a lens & body combination. Take for example my friend's AFD 80-200 that he used on his d7000. it front focuses quite badly. but when tested out on a d700 and d800, the focus was sharp and it was fine. Another example would be my case, i tested it out on a d7000 for a while and it was fine and on fx the problem was clear for me to see. I was really satisfied by it when I shoot it for a company's family day, the bokeh was not distracting and wide open sharpness was really good. I shot it around f/1.8 to f/2.8 on single subjects, and wideopen on suitable distances, it will make the subject pop even if this is a wide angle lens. But when subjected to shooting couples & groups with apertures ranging from f4 to f5.6, that's when I saw the focus shift problem. I was forced to shoot at f1.8 to 2.8 ..then skip the whole range and can start back again at f8 to be safe.

Yes there are people who shoot with this lens and satisfied by it and gave good to great reviews about this lens. I saw the reviews' images taken with this lens and it the images were great, but all (at least what I saw) were done on single subjects. When I shoot on couples and groups, and when the objects or people in the back are sharper... yeah this is where I was like "OHH dang, i should have listened to those other reviewers who talked about the focus shift problem". It became a f/1.8 and f8 only lens for me.

1. If say it was my copy of the lens being problematic -
(A) My copy was a new batch with very recent production/serial numbers so that means that this problem is still there.
(B) If my copy of the lens was problematic, doesn't that worry you as the problems I am having are clearly the EXACT SAME with others. Meaning that this exact problem of mine doesnt just happen to me, it happened to others too. I would be fine & not worry if this lens had a faulty af motor, sharpness or other problems, but this lens has the same problems as others have said. That means that most probably this problem is wide spread and a reviewer also said that this happens because of the lens elements used & the way the lens is designed and if that's true, we're doomed.

2. I thought about sending it for focus calibration, but i wised up and thought, i wouldnt waste my time with it. How the heck to correct this lens focus problems other than physically opening & fixing the lens. Why cant focus calibration work? I can do focus calibration myself on the camera body but the thing is that if they correct it for a certain aperture, it would be correct only for that aperture and have wrong af for others. It's not as easy as fixing a back/front focus issue which is easier because it's telling the camera+lens to focus more to the front or more to the back, that's all.

I used quite a number of nikon lenses and tested out some of tamron lenses & sigma's prime 50 & 85 (which is prone to having a back/front focus issue for certain cameras, some new & some after a few months of using) but you know what? This is the first time I think that there's no real fix for the problem I am having. Man I was so dissatisfied with it, I sold it within around 2 months after buying it.
celciuz
post Mar 2 2013, 11:00 AM

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Okay guys, need some advise. I still have my D90 lying around, and I guess the value is kinda low at the moment, also getting bored with both my FX... thinking to do something new... which is IR!

How much is it to convert D90 to IR? And where/who can do it?
ifer
post Mar 2 2013, 11:08 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Mar 2 2013, 11:00 AM)
Okay guys, need some advise. I still have my D90 lying around, and I guess the value is kinda low at the moment, also getting bored with both my FX... thinking to do something new... which is IR!

How much is it to convert D90 to IR? And where/who can do it?
*
eh, i was thinking of the same thing too. except that i won't be using my d90 and will use my d200 instead...
check this out:

infrared filter for camera
celciuz
post Mar 2 2013, 11:23 AM

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QUOTE(ifer @ Mar 2 2013, 11:08 AM)
eh, i was thinking of the same thing too. except that i won't be using my d90 and will use my d200 instead...
check this out:

infrared filter for camera
*
Ah, based in USA sad.gif. I don't mind paying USD250 for the modding... and if DIY I'm a little skeptical :S...
sukhoi37
post Mar 2 2013, 12:05 PM

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QUOTE(alpha_company @ Mar 1 2013, 09:06 PM)
First off, i wanted to ask you, if maybe you would know. Is the "dust problem" with the D600 solved/fixed already in newer batches? and how to know whether new batches or not? I'm asking about this because I read about it online and it's quite a problem especially if you are a landscape shooter (using small apertures). I thought "OK THIS IS JUST A SMALL PROBLEM" but it happened to my close friend who bought it maybe 4 months ago (not sure exactly when) and it was a big problem as shooting at even f/5.6 already shows the problematic dust bunnies on your images. Wonder what will happen at f8 or f16... and for some reason after he send it for cleaning the AF just stopped working and need to send it again for a 2nd time (the AF thing was maybe a fluke, not sure)

Secondly, I had the AFS 28 1.8G Nano for about 2 months. Read about the reviews online before buying. The good thing - the price is good and it's very light. Now to the bad thing - Basically the main problem most people are talking about the lens is that it has focus shift problems (you can read about it online for more details). Some say the problem is really pronounced and some say it just doesn't exist and it the cameraman's fault.

I used the 28G on mostly on a D3s and sometimes on a D7000. I used the 28G for several wedding shoots. This is what happened :

1. When shooting and viewing it on the camera's LCD it is okay and has good bokeh and colors.
2. When I got back home and checked in on my Adobe Camera Raw I was like "what daaafuuuu~~" The focus shift that some people are talking about really exist and it's not my fault! I do understand that with big apertures I need to be aware & careful of my focusing, but the thing is - my wide open shots at f/1.8 was fine and my f/4 & especially f/5.6 shots was making me crazy mad and worried to use the lens ever again!!!

3. The problem with this lens is focus shift, which most primes have to a certain extend but the thing that makes this lens especially heartbreaking is that is has a FOCUS SHIFT + FIELD CURVATURE. Double the trouble!

At f/1.8 and f/2 the focus is nice and the field curvature problem is not pronounced and most of the time you dont even know it has it. Going down to f4 and f5.6 you get serious problems here, the focus shift + field curvature problem is very pronounced.

EXAMPLE 1 : I was shooting a bride & groom next to each on a malay pelamin (bridal bed) and the background was the flower decoration on several images at f1.8, 2.8 all towards f4. Guess what? The bride & groom is sometimes in focus (not sharpest) and sometimes not in focus but the weird thing is that the decoration at the back has perfectly sharp focus like I was purposely focusing at the decoration. At first I thought I wrongly focused at the back OR the lens has backfocus problems but it turns out that ONLY my f/1.8 shots were fine and the focus field was as I would expect. At other smaller apertures it went backfocus.

EXAMPLE 2 : I was taking a picture of a bride & groom sitting by each other on a bed. I was kneeling straight 90 degrees towards them and using f/2.8 at around 1 meter from the couple. Yes their faces are really close like 10cm from each other & it was a wide shot & NOT a tight close up shot.Guess what? The focus on the bride is just barely okay and the groom just beside her is just like @#%^&! it's not in focus. People might think the lens is not sharp but the thing is that the bed/decoration behind the groom is really sharp and in perfect focus.. i was like WTH? THE SOLUTION : I SOLD THE LENS AND GOT A 16-35 VR. IT WORKS!

This is what i mean:

» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


I had the D700 for quite some time and was satisfied by the performance. I tested out the D600 and was disappointed. The focus speed of d300/d700 was faster and more so in lowlight. 1/4000s on d600? Yeah.. that's why the initial price d600 was the same as the last price of d700 which is around 6k. The initial price of the d700 was 8-9k if im not mistaken. Again this is your choice if you are okay with the D600. I am not okay with it personally.

I had the 28G and really really really hated it because of that focus shift problem. It does not show (at least in my testing it) on DX but it does show this particular problem on FX. It would be a great lens with the Nano coating, decent price, colour, image quality and lightweight but it's not because of what I experienced. I say this : For environmental portraits (only one subject) shooting wide open (f1.8 or f2) this lens is really great and you don't notice the problem. For couple/group/family shots, basically if you have more than one subject and shoot at this aperture "f2.8-f5.6" forget this lens.

The other options like the AFD 20mm, 24mm & 28mm (all f/2.8) does not have the wide open sharpness & colour rendition of the 28G but these lenses work. FORGET the sigma equivalent it's much worse.

If you are on a limited budget I recommend this :

D600 + AFD 28 or AFD 35 + SB900
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I got the similar experience with you.
28G with D700 got some focus shift issue.
Sold it after 2 weeks. sweat.gif

Yes, D600 AF is not as good as I expect.
Nikon give quite a lot of points, but all clustered at the centre.
I prefer quality than quantity doh.gif
D700 is a much more reliable when comes to AF performance.
Everdying
post Mar 2 2013, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Mar 2 2013, 11:00 AM)
Okay guys, need some advise. I still have my D90 lying around, and I guess the value is kinda low at the moment, also getting bored with both my FX... thinking to do something new... which is IR!

How much is it to convert D90 to IR? And where/who can do it?
*
http://www.ylcamera.com.my/product.php?pag...dbrowse_order=0
Decky
post Mar 2 2013, 12:18 PM

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QUOTE(sukhoi37 @ Mar 2 2013, 12:05 PM)
I got the similar experience with you.
28G with D700 got some focus shift issue.
Sold it after 2 weeks. sweat.gif

Yes, D600 AF is not as good as I expect.
Nikon give quite a lot of points, but all clustered at the centre.
I prefer quality than quantity doh.gif
D700 is a much more reliable when comes to AF performance.
*
Hmm.. did you guy test it at the shop before selling it?

I acknowledge that many people have encountered the focus shift issue, but the fact that some didn't baffles me. Why would Nikon produce such a flawed lens?

Alpha, your focus shift you mean that when you take group shots, the field curvature causes some of the people to be not sharp while some being sharp?

I'm fine if it's a little soft, but is it merely not sharp or completely OOF?


The 35mm AFD seems fine, but the worry I have is that I can't find any other shops selling it as of now other than YL or shashinki (1.2k ish)

And since it's such an old lens, I don't think Nikon will fix it if there's an issue and the resale value might be really low

This post has been edited by Decky: Mar 2 2013, 12:23 PM
kizwan
post Mar 2 2013, 04:00 PM

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Hi,

I'm eyeing Nikon COOLPIX P510. Price is around RM1300. What do you guys think about this camera? According to specification, it does look good. However I'm not an expert on camera. Hope to know any weakness this camera have. I only have a budget of RM1500.

Thanks.

kizwan
teetaatee
post Mar 2 2013, 04:06 PM

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pic spam biggrin.gif
some recent photos

user posted image
IMG_4020 by Song laa, on Flickr

user posted image
IMG_4013 by Song laa, on Flickr
celciuz
post Mar 2 2013, 05:45 PM

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QUOTE(teetaatee @ Mar 2 2013, 04:06 PM)
pic spam biggrin.gif
some recent photos

user posted image
IMG_4020 by Song laa, on Flickr

user posted image
IMG_4013 by Song laa, on Flickr
*
Not bad, but I would like it better with rim light on the right side. His hat is sort of sinking into the background.
BlizzardCraft
post Mar 2 2013, 05:49 PM

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user posted image

http://500px.com/photo/27206573


Shot this in the CNY biggrin.gif mum trying to cover the child's ear from the explosion from the firework display smile.gif
celciuz
post Mar 2 2013, 05:51 PM

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I checked, RM400+ for conversion for D90... hmm hmm.. itchy itchy...
ifer
post Mar 2 2013, 07:29 PM

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Guys,
Any Nikonian here is interested to work in Nikon Centre (Time Square) for Nikon Club Malaysia? Job scope is to assist in Nikon workshop and walkround that's organised by the Nikon Club.

It's a full time job and they are looking for bumi only. and ohh, stupid requirement perhaps: must be a Nikon user lol... mean nonac shooters can't apply.

PM me if you are interested
[PF] T.J.
post Mar 2 2013, 09:17 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Mar 2 2013, 05:51 PM)
I checked, RM400+ for conversion for D90... hmm hmm.. itchy itchy...
*
Not too expensive hehe, go for it, go for it brows.gif brows.gif brows.gif
pspslim007
post Mar 2 2013, 09:36 PM

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erm is it stupid to get a 35mm 2f if i have a 50mm 1.4f ?
teetaatee
post Mar 2 2013, 11:06 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Mar 2 2013, 05:45 PM)
Not bad, but I would like it better with rim light on the right side. His hat is sort of sinking into the background.
*
okie.. will try out soon thumbup.gif thanks for the tips

This post has been edited by teetaatee: Mar 2 2013, 11:06 PM
ongdennis
post Mar 2 2013, 11:26 PM

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QUOTE(pspslim007 @ Mar 2 2013, 09:36 PM)
erm is it stupid to get a 35mm 2f if i have a 50mm 1.4f ?
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nothing wrong rite?
if u have u have 50mm f1.4 and still want to get 50mm f1.8 then maybe a bit...
alpha_company
post Mar 3 2013, 01:06 AM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Mar 2 2013, 11:00 AM)
Okay guys, need some advise. I still have my D90 lying around, and I guess the value is kinda low at the moment, also getting bored with both my FX... thinking to do something new... which is IR!

How much is it to convert D90 to IR? And where/who can do it?
*
QUOTE(ifer)
eh, i was thinking of the same thing too. except that i won't be using my d90 and will use my d200 instead...
check this out:
*
Got a few hardcore friends that likes IR images... they said that d70/d70s is good but D50 is the best for IR at colour reproduction. Not sure why though..maybe the sensor or weakness or IR filtering on the sensor.

One friend has this group that sends dslr cameras to Indonesia for conversion. They bring a whole bag full of dslr bodies for conversion. They charge around rm700-750 iinm. Even got a few people converting D3s ... shocking.gif They will bring the dslr to indo maybe 2-4 times a year, as long as they achieve their quota. Can choose a number of false colour/IR versions.

My other friend did his IR conversion in Ipoh (done by his friend). Can be done as fast as a day if really urgent. Can choose a number of false colour/IR versions. Around 500+ I think..

As far as I know full IR requires quite a bit of editing in photoshop and know-how to process it so that it will come out good, otherwise it will just be a bunch of weird colours. Another thing to note, different lenses will produce different grades of colour reproduction. Some lenses will make your ir/false colour pop and some other lenses will make it look duller. Not sure why though, maybe the nano coating block certain type of light? One of the best (at least what my friend said after testing a lot of lenses) is the 18-55VR... blink.gif .. great colours and it's cheap!

Both parties can do full IR, but most of these IR junkies are more interested in false colour. Im not sure how to say it but as far as i know.. they used a certain kind of IR glass filter or maybe a combination of them to block certain lightwaves and letting in specific ones in, thus the trademark colours of false colour names like Batavia, Littoralis etc.. and if you buy from them they will give a set of WB presets to achieve those trademark colours.

This post has been edited by alpha_company: Mar 3 2013, 01:14 AM
KTCY
post Mar 3 2013, 01:35 AM

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QUOTE(pspslim007 @ Mar 2 2013, 09:36 PM)
erm is it stupid to get a 35mm 2f if i have a 50mm 1.4f ?
*
used to own both. Nothing stupid
alpha_company
post Mar 3 2013, 01:50 AM

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QUOTE(Decky @ Mar 2 2013, 12:18 PM)
Hmm.. did you guy test it at the shop before selling it?

I acknowledge that many people have encountered the focus shift issue, but the fact that some didn't baffles me. Why would Nikon produce such a flawed lens?

Alpha, your focus shift you mean that when you take group shots, the field curvature causes some of the people to be not sharp while some being sharp?

I'm fine if it's a little soft, but is it merely not sharp or completely OOF?
The 35mm AFD seems fine, but the worry I have is that I can't find any other shops selling it as of now other than YL or shashinki (1.2k ish)

And since it's such an old lens, I don't think Nikon will fix it if there's an issue and the resale value might be really low
*
You can see the seriousness of the problem.. he sold it within 2 weeks.. I could have sold it within a month if I had a buyer then, but needed to wait another month for a buyer. You would NOT see the problem when testing it at the shop... unless you can take specific kinds of test shots at the shop and transfer the images into a PC/laptop and look at it. Yeah right...

Like I explained before in my previous post, dont be surprised if some said it is a great lens. They tested it out on a ONE subject at mostly wide open apertures. IT"S JUST IMPOSSIBLE to see it at those settings.Yeah this lens is great at wide open (sharpness,colour) but the reviewers who saw this problem tested it on numerous other things/subjects including a focus chart at various apertures. I just dont know why nikon produced such a flawed lens. Im not so surprised as around the same time they produced the D600 with the dust problem which is a PHYSICAL defect/design & D800 with the left focus point issue. I can understand software/firmware defects but if its physical, especially if it's the insides of the camera or lens.. i'm much better off buying older proven technology.

Yes, exactly.. field curvature does that but the most horrible thing is when this two guys come together : FIELD CURVATURE & FOCUS SHIFT .. Double trouble. I explained it in my previous post. You'll know pain when you take group shots and the center is soft/blurred, the guy standing on the SAME LINE at the left & right is sharp, the guy on the THIRD LINE is sharpest .. WTF?

You can find a used AFD 35 f2... the lens is tough enough cause it doenst have an af motor. a used AF 35mm f2 (non-D) will be much cheaper. Both will AF fine on your camera.

FYI, the OLD Nikon 85mm 1.4D is still in production.. the OLD Nikon 50 1.8D is still in production.. the OLD Nikon 20 2.8D is still in production. Guess what? The 35D is still in production.. why? market wise if this lens was discontinued, what other 35mm prime can you buy for FX? The AFS 35 1.4G? you know how much that costs? Nikon doesnt want people to buy to Sigma/Tamron lenses..they need variety in their product line (price wise).

Dont think Nikon will fix it? Man.. if you buy new, it has a warranty card. THEY WILL FIX IT.

Resale value of the 35D? Around 700-900 depends on age/condition/warranty etc..

This post has been edited by alpha_company: Mar 3 2013, 01:55 AM

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