Anybody knows how to adjust monitor/lcd brightness based on cd/m2?
E.g. adjust your display to 90cd/m2? But our monitor display brightness is 0-100 (I suppose in percentage?)

talk about fungus i should check my lens as well

because recently raining days i notice got something round spot fog in my lens... O_O

now dont have after i wipe it.

in rear glass and front element

havent check with shot with f/16 or above

This post has been edited by Agito666: Mar 1 2013, 02:10 PM

why need f/16 ?
I open the aperture blade see thru light can view perfectly clear already lo

also check dust got in my sensor or not lulz

Hey guys, I'm sort of in a purchase dilemma here and I need some advice.

Depending on my results, I am most likely going to be getting a D600 body with 1 prime lens and perhaps a flash unit.

My estimated budget is around RM8k

I want a prime only because I like shooting with them (wider aperture + cheap +sharp + makes me think about framing alot)

From my past experience, my most favorite focal length (and hence my best shots) are from the fujifilm x100's 23mm f2 lens (which is around 36mm on FF). I'm currently using a 35mm on a crop sensor body and while I don't mind the 52mm focal length, I just prefer a slightly wider view. (I don't prefer to take headshots)

So I've been considering the D600 + 28mm f1.8g combo as the lens seems to be really really good and it's wide. The problem being that it's gonna consume my whole budget leaving no space for a speedlite and that I've forgot how it's like to have 28mm on FF equivalent sensors. If my calculations are right, 28mm on FF would be around 18mm-ish on a crop sensor? 18mm on crop was rather wide to me last time, not sure about now. I really want 35mm on FF, but since I can't afford even the sigma alternative, I thought perhaps 28mm won't be too far off.

My question being, is 7mm a big difference?

My other option is to get the 50mm f1.8g which isn't too stressful on my wallet. But having lived with a 52mm FOV and thinking that it's just "slightly" too narrow for my comfort, I'm also a little worried.

So do you think I should get the 50mm f1.8g and save up for a 35mm or stick with the 28mm?


The plan is to get 3 primes for my kit first. (either the 28mm, 50mm and 85mm or the 35mm 50mm then 85mm)

Since I got my 35mm f1.8 for my DX frame I find that I hardly use the flash. The low f and Great noise control by Nikon makes nice pictures even in low light condition. Should be even better on your body since the size is bigger hence better noise control.

D600 (RM 5900) + Nikkor 35mm f/2D (1050) + SB700 (1k)
Nicely in your budget

This post has been edited by KTCY: Mar 1 2013, 04:21 PM

Very nice photo

was gonna say the same thing hehe

Is it a MF lens?

I guess I'm also thinking of futureproofing etc. so I think I'm still stuck between getting a 50mm and saving for a good 35mm or getting the 28mm as a replacement.

is 7mm alot?

This post has been edited by Decky: Mar 1 2013, 05:19 PM

Nope.
it a D lens with 35mm f2. it still can auto focus because D600 has focus motor in body.

7mm for guy means a lot
so does DSLR world but I guess 35mm is wide enough

hi everyone , i am new to this photography thing , but just curious , why do we need big aperture like 1.4/f ? do we use until that high aperture ? i mean i normally shoot my subject at most is 2.8/f .

First off, i wanted to ask you, if maybe you would know. Is the "dust problem" with the D600 solved/fixed already in newer batches? and how to know whether new batches or not? I'm asking about this because I read about it online and it's quite a problem especially if you are a landscape shooter (using small apertures). I thought "OK THIS IS JUST A SMALL PROBLEM" but it happened to my close friend who bought it maybe 4 months ago (not sure exactly when) and it was a big problem as shooting at even f/5.6 already shows the problematic dust bunnies on your images. Wonder what will happen at f8 or f16... and for some reason after he send it for cleaning the AF just stopped working and need to send it again for a 2nd time (the AF thing was maybe a fluke, not sure)

Secondly, I had the AFS 28 1.8G Nano for about 2 months. Read about the reviews online before buying. The good thing - the price is good and it's very light. Now to the bad thing - Basically the main problem most people are talking about the lens is that it has focus shift problems (you can read about it online for more details). Some say the problem is really pronounced and some say it just doesn't exist and it the cameraman's fault.

I used the 28G on mostly on a D3s and sometimes on a D7000. I used the 28G for several wedding shoots. This is what happened :

1. When shooting and viewing it on the camera's LCD it is okay and has good bokeh and colors.
2. When I got back home and checked in on my Adobe Camera Raw I was like "what daaafuuuu~~" The focus shift that some people are talking about really exist and it's not my fault! I do understand that with big apertures I need to be aware & careful of my focusing, but the thing is - my wide open shots at f/1.8 was fine and my f/4 & especially f/5.6 shots was making me crazy mad and worried to use the lens ever again!!!

3. The problem with this lens is focus shift, which most primes have to a certain extend but the thing that makes this lens especially heartbreaking is that is has a FOCUS SHIFT + FIELD CURVATURE. Double the trouble!

At f/1.8 and f/2 the focus is nice and the field curvature problem is not pronounced and most of the time you dont even know it has it. Going down to f4 and f5.6 you get serious problems here, the focus shift + field curvature problem is very pronounced.

EXAMPLE 1 : I was shooting a bride & groom next to each on a malay pelamin (bridal bed) and the background was the flower decoration on several images at f1.8, 2.8 all towards f4. Guess what? The bride & groom is sometimes in focus (not sharpest) and sometimes not in focus but the weird thing is that the decoration at the back has perfectly sharp focus like I was purposely focusing at the decoration. At first I thought I wrongly focused at the back OR the lens has backfocus problems but it turns out that ONLY my f/1.8 shots were fine and the focus field was as I would expect. At other smaller apertures it went backfocus.

EXAMPLE 2 : I was taking a picture of a bride & groom sitting by each other on a bed. I was kneeling straight 90 degrees towards them and using f/2.8 at around 1 meter from the couple. Yes their faces are really close like 10cm from each other & it was a wide shot & NOT a tight close up shot.Guess what? The focus on the bride is just barely okay and the groom just beside her is just like @#%^&! it's not in focus. People might think the lens is not sharp but the thing is that the bed/decoration behind the groom is really sharp and in perfect focus.. i was like WTH? THE SOLUTION : I SOLD THE LENS AND GOT A 16-35 VR. IT WORKS!

This is what i mean:



I had the D700 for quite some time and was satisfied by the performance. I tested out the D600 and was disappointed. The focus speed of d300/d700 was faster and more so in lowlight. 1/4000s on d600? Yeah.. that's why the initial price d600 was the same as the last price of d700 which is around 6k. The initial price of the d700 was 8-9k if im not mistaken. Again this is your choice if you are okay with the D600. I am not okay with it personally.

I had the 28G and really really really hated it because of that focus shift problem. It does not show (at least in my testing it) on DX but it does show this particular problem on FX. It would be a great lens with the Nano coating, decent price, colour, image quality and lightweight but it's not because of what I experienced. I say this : For environmental portraits (only one subject) shooting wide open (f1.8 or f2) this lens is really great and you don't notice the problem. For couple/group/family shots, basically if you have more than one subject and shoot at this aperture "f2.8-f5.6" forget this lens.

The other options like the AFD 20mm, 24mm & 28mm (all f/2.8) does not have the wide open sharpness & colour rendition of the 28G but these lenses work. FORGET the sigma equivalent it's much worse.

If you are on a limited budget I recommend this :

D600 + AFD 28 or AFD 35 + SB900

This post has been edited by alpha_company: Mar 1 2013, 10:33 PM

Just curious, does that happen only on 28mm... or those wide primes?

Thanks bro

As far as I know, focus shift happens to most, if not all prime lenses. The only difference is that whether it has a large or small focus shift. It usually disappears or appear to be gone by f/8 or smaller.

This is what happens to my 28 1.8G :

1. I focus and shoot at f/1.8 - Dslr achieves focus but on this particular lens (28G) the range of the area in focus will be a little bit more towards the back, but still the subject will be clearly in focus. Not a problem here for me.

2. I focus and shoot at f/5.6 - When you half-press the shutter button, the camera ALWAYS achieves focus at the widest aperture regardless of the setting on your camera (in this case f/1.8) , but when you fully press the shutter button to snap an image, only then the camera stops down to f/5.6 and the problem here comes because at 5.6 the focus area shifts more towards the back compared to the wide open focus area.


THIS IS WHAT I MEANT BY FOCUS SHIFT

For most zoom lens lets say the 2470G :

1. When i shoot at f/2.8 on a human eye, the focus area is, lets say TOTAL 4 inches (2 inch to the front of the eye and 2 inches to the back).
2. When i change to f/5.6 lets say the focus area is TOTAL 8 inches (4 inches to the front of the eye and 4 inches to the back)

That is usually what happens for zoom lenses or what we would like to it to be. We have more control here.


For primes lets say 28G :

1. When i shoot at f/1.8 on a human eye, the focus area is, lets say TOTAL 4 inches (2 inch to the front of the eye and 2 inches to the back).
2. When i change to f/5.6 lets say the focus area is TOTAL 8 inches (2 inches to the front of the eye and 6 inches to the back)

It depends on the severity of focus shift. If it shifts too much like what I experienced for 28G (especially at close range) it will be useless for shooting at various apertures because you don't know what to expect.

It has a solution however, sort of that is. If you are shooting at only a certain aperture like say you are ONLY shooting at f/5.6, you can adjust the AF-FINE TUNE so that it would have perfect focus at that specific aperture, but the downside is that at other apertures, the focus will be follow the same af fine tune setting, eg. if you set it to be more front focus, at 1.8 it will have too much front focus.

FIELD CURVATURE

The other problem is the field curvature. Nice for environmental portraits because of the way the focus area is curved, but not nice for most other types of shooting especially landscape. The 28G has it and combined with the focus shift as you can see in the image i posted above, the problem got much worse.

I'm not sure sure why this happens and to what types of lenses but I've read somewhere it has to do with the construction or build/shape and/or material of the elements inside the lens. Most people think to make lenses you need glass, but like spectacles, camera lenses also uses plastic optics.

This post has been edited by alpha_company: Mar 1 2013, 11:53 PM

Thanks for the reply dude.

I'm not sure if the dust issue is still prevalent, but Nikon USA has announced that they have sent instructions to nikon repair centres to fix the issue apparently. So even if I do encounter the dust problem, I'm assuming that Nikon will fix it for me without much hassle. I've actually done quite an in depth research on the D600 vs my other alternatives such as a 6D or 2nd hand 5dmkII and d700 and found that the d600 suits my needs the most. So yeah.


as for the focus shift issue, yes I've read that the lens does have it. But isn't it more of an issue with your copy of the lens and not the lens itself? As in, can't you send your lens back to Nikon for fixing?

Really liked your detailed explanation of focus shift btw.

focus shift happens to both nikon and canon system. it's a combination of the lens and the camera body's problem.

want a system that do not suffer from focus shift?
hasselblad h4d system