The company knows what they are doing, most of the time is the user. A filter is a filter. Hi flow filter is letting in more 'dirt' as well. And hi flow filter user need it because they want to race and thus rev high. If you hardly rev your engine and use hi flow filter, what is the use for hi flow filter? Having more 'dirt' passing the sensor is asking for trouble. It is even worse if you don't rev, slow 'dirt' stick on the sensor more easily than a very fast 'dirt'.

And the 'dirt' reduces your engine lifespan relatively as well - hence racing people like to change their oil more often because those much 'dirt' came via their hi flow filter and engine oil & filter need change more often.

If you stay with hi flow filter and still happily do 10k km engine oil change... think about it. Logical or not, up to you to decide.

bro this is the first time i saw such claims. That using the hi flow filter K&N gonna ruin the sensor.
Even if i change engine oil + filter every 3 km, judging from your post my sensor will die off as well.
the sensors are the nearest to the air filter. Engine oil would be another issue for discussion.

I am not saying using these high performance filter we do not need to service that often.
but to me regular service is just fine. if you want 10k, use a premium full synthetic, switch the filter in between.
or go for semi 7k, or mineral 5k.

nothing out of the usual to me whether or not i use the K&N.
(a 30k km Temp sensor/MAF cleaning wouldn't hurt too, and throttle body cleaning)

I will keep in mind what you said though, and observe like usually i do.
(Hopefully i can keep this car for another 2yrs )

P.S: one thing i find it contradicting though. If like you mentioned its the user's fault instead of the company making those filters, why wouldn't they recommend the maintenance needed to use the filter in the first place? Beats me...

This post has been edited by dtna7: Sep 6 2012, 06:06 PM

Got my car back n still have to pay for the 2pcs of O2 sensor n MAF sensor, this morning the sa call say everything is fine now, ask what they do, answer the sensor change n some tuning, test my car n was suprise throttle is ok but the rpm is not so stable as before but rpm is quiet low but anyway quiet happy becos problem solve but have to folk out RM1810.50

This post has been edited by Dickong: Sep 6 2012, 09:15 PM

I too faced the same issue last year, but they change the O2 sensor under warranty, its only $600 plus. Why are yours so exp? I wonder why the current gen Vios have this O2 sensor issue.

Fyi, the same prob (rpm drop) happened again after 2 months replacing the sensor. I couldn't be bothered anymore. Kinda disappointed with Toyota.

---

Added on September 6, 2012, 10:03 pmI too faced the same issue last year, but they change the O2 sensor under warranty, its only $600 plus. Why are yours so exp? I wonder why the current gen Vios have this O2 sensor issue.

Fyi, the same prob (rpm drop) happened again after 2 months replacing the sensor. I couldn't be bothered anymore. Kinda disappointed with Toyota.

This post has been edited by potatoes: Sep 6 2012, 10:03 PM

Hi Guys,
I just got my vios J (M) 2 months ago, and current kilometer is around 4500. i am having the issue like very hard to go for "1st gear", it just feel like something stuck in middle, and have to go for few times.
Anyone else facing the same issue with me?

also, when i try to start up my engine for every time, the engine sound is similar to "Lion Shout", dam bising la.. haiz

Besides, dashboard and passenger seat also have some weird sound during the ride.

Yes. The engine oil thing have nothing to do with the sensor but to keep in mind high flow air filter do affect somewhat. And of course you can do your regular service with regular intervals. I'm just saying it now to prevent years later will come back and complain their Toyota keep having problems here & there where they were using additives and aftermarket parts everywhere. Well of course I also hope all the cars owned by everyone would last.


The company is targeting certain users and certain driving patterns (hence they keep mentioning high performance). Nothing to be contradicted. Someone can also feed the cheap-branded Nasa engine oil into the engine and yell in the forum claiming Toyota engine sluggish, low quality and sucks but mentioned nothing about the Nasa oil because they had sold million of litres but no complain.


And regarding Toyota SC, they are a waste of time.

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Added on September 7, 2012, 9:07 amOh yeah talking about the throttle body, our service schedule do mention when to do it. But I doubt Toyota SC did it because my throttle body module is dusty, even after service, no even a mark or finger mark smudges away the dust - it is left untouched.

This post has been edited by dstl1128: Sep 7 2012, 09:07 AM

With my previous Vios (M) i also faced with the same 1st gear issue for the first 2-3 months but after a few service round it seems to be ok already no more issue with the 1st gear and reverse gear...

as for the sound in the dashboard.. maybe can check at the glove compartment.. some people said this is the place where most of the sound is generated ( the glove compartment body hitting the dashboard body).... but my brother vios actually have a sound coming out from the dashboard (on top of the meter area) and toyota open up the thing and put something to where the sound originated....

my 2cent

kuman

Well, I faced some idling issues too, 1 year ago, when I had my Vios G for 4 years at 126k. My car could not idle for long, anything more than 1 minute, the engine will stutter than die. This is especially so at traffic lights and traffic jams. Went to my usual mechanic, he thought it was the MAF. I changed the sensor for RM280. Problem resolved for 3 days. Then the same problem came back. He later serviced the throttle body. The car was all right was 2 days, and not surprisingly, the problem came back. My mechanic went to his friend who had a better diagnostic tool, and it was reported throttle body failure. Changed the throttle body. Luckily he is my usual mechanic, did not have to pay for it, just use it first and see. And 2 days later, back to the same issue. <<i'm a naughty boy who just used a naughty word>>! Very fed up and very stressful driving the car in KL. Anytime can kong!

Went to another place recommended by a KIA sales agent. This mechanic is a sifu with Vios in Sunway industrial park. Seems even the Subang Jaya Toyota service centre will refer chronic cases to him. He checked my coils, 2 bad coils. Ok, changed them. Better now. But… you guessed it, the problem came back. Now I am really pissed. I then remembered from my days of driving a Conti, the issue could have been related to the O2 sensors. So I got the mech to change the sensors. He did not have new stock but he got some old ones with the same specs (but different sockets). Anyway, he modified the sockets to fit my car. Lo and behold, the problem disappeared. Drove like that for a week until I had the time to install the new O2 sensors.

Idling back to normal, very smooth, even at 600 rpm. Even when the aircon cuts in and out. With aircon on, it idles at 750 rpm.

Total damage, for the MAF – RM280, coils – RM1,320 (ori from Japan), O2 – RM900 (ori from Japan). Throttle body return to my mech.

Fast forward 1 year to last 2 months… idling went flaky a bit, can feel the car vibrating a lot but idling speed still at around 600 rpm. Feels like dying but never died.

Checked with the 2nd mech, tested, everything ok except that when I am in D, my idling will drop further to 500 rpm. Seems my gearbox is putting a lot of drag on the engine (well, I had gearbox issues when the car was 6 months old), kept sending to SC Toyota and they always claimed nothing wrong. But if nothing is wrong, why the h#ll does it “bang” into gears when I am on full throttle? Ok, I drive my cars hard.

Anyway, the mech also found 1 engine mount about to koyak, hence the vibration. For prudent measure, he also adjusted my idling a bit higher, so now it idles at 750, with aircon on about 800 and when I am in gear, D, it drops to 600 rpm (the drop is a bit too high per the mech and he says it could be my gearbox issue now about to manifest into something bigger). And it has been like this for the past 2 months with no further issues. Still driving it hard (I usually “explore” the upper reaches of the RPM).

And since my car is about to be 5 years old and I am getting fed up with the issues, I have already sold it but still using it until my new car arrives (which I have booked 2 months back and SA not sure when the car is coming). Going to other brands… also from the EAST.

Ok, that is my rant for the day. I know it is a bit long but….

The dashboard sound I also have, complain once, and they say is some wire hanging around and knocking the dashboard and fixed already.

For the 1st gear problem, if your are is already moving, it is normal hard to engaged back to 1st gear.

this is a good sharing bro.
and an eye opener too

i had the NCP42 same 5 yrs old currently with me. I bet yours is the newer version NCP93?
apart from regular servicing and a major one after 5yrs & 100km mileage, i don't have any problems with my car at all. In fact, it still feels very much alike the first day i had it.

The insides of NCP42 vs NCP93 should not differ that much, which is why it is still very hard for me to believe your past experience.

Mind to disclose your new EASTERN car?

For manual user this is normal issue even when u use good GB oil some time very hard to enter 1 gear and reverse gear.


Good info..... notice this if idling RPM not smooth this is not only happen to some vios but also some nissan owner as now days most of the car maker use drive by wire technology .... as inside the throttle body chip is damage or the motor is damage....

this make me scare bout vios problem...cost for repair make me kkkkkaaabbbboooommmmm.....must be carefull/service check after this

Any car brand is a liability and have their own problem.
Luckily Toyota parts is not sold at Ferrari pricing level.

Vios has 2 O2 sensors, around RM600 each.

Hi, I want to ask something...

1. engine clicking noice (spark plug tick sound maybe??)
I noticed that everytime after long journey... or a hot journey..
parked outside my car.. idiling... i can hear the engine ticking sound very very clearly... meaning very loud la... compare to when I start the engine cold... is this thing expected or not?

2. torque converter release
I also noticed that... but this does not always happen..
when in traffic light. i will put the car into 'N' to wait for the 160second.. sometimes longer/ shorted... but sudenly the car is like get a push from the torgue converter... and my car can drift for less then 50cm...
the feel is like some1 softly bang u from the back of the car... terkejut..

anyone getting issues as above??? please advice.

thanks.

Regards,
Popopi

[quote=potatoes,Sep 6 2012, 10:02 PM]
I too faced the same issue last year, but they change the O2 sensor under warranty, its only $600 plus. Why are yours so exp? I wonder why the current gen Vios have this O2 sensor issue.

Fyi, the same prob (rpm drop) happened again after 2 months replacing the sensor. I couldn't be bothered anymore. Kinda disappointed with Toyota.

Bro, my 2pcs of O2 sensor n 1pc of MAF sensor is that expensive i dont know, as long as it fine now its ok but rpm a bit low when on A/C only 6000rpm no A/C 6500rpm of course a pinch in the wallet.

bro, you rev till that high? almost redline already right?
what's the rpm like before the problem occurred?

Sorry 600rpm n 650rpm not 6000rpm n 6500rpm mistake due to hole in the pocket.

dtna7 - Yup, mine is NCP93. Besides the idling issue, the car has been reliable. Even when it had the idling issue, the car got me stranded only once. The rest of the time I managed to limp back home or the workshop, but very stressful driving.

For the NCP93, the accelerator is drive-by-wire whereas for the NCP42, it is still cable operated. IICRC, NCP42 only 1 O2 sensor whereas NCP93 has 2. Actually the car has held up pretty well considering I like to torture my cars. According to my 2 mechs, they even agree with me the NCP42 is a more reliable car, lesser issues. I have come across 5 other NCP93, around the same age as mine suffering the same idling fate - O2 sensors. Hmmmm, planned absolecense of the O2 sensors?

One of my mech advised me it is better to use RON97. If cannot afford, then better to alternate between RON95 and RON97. From his experience, the RON95, tends to run hotter and burn the O2 sensors faster. That is based on his observation because whenever he comes across O2 sensor problems, he will ask the owners what fuel they us.

In a way I have to agree with him because when I alternate RON95 and RON97, my car actually idles better.

My new EASTERN car? From the kimchi land. I have one already for my wifey (a Forte 1.6SX). Changing my own Vios for the Elantra 1.6 HS (only hope the damn SA do not FFK me or I will cancel my order and stick with my dugong). Personally both the kimchi cars are better "cruisers" whereas I find my dugong better for cut and thrust style of driving . At higher speeds, I find the kimchi cars more relaxing to drive whereas the dugong is more frantic.

Since I am getting older now, I need a more relaxing ride. Those days of spirited driving is slowly going away.

Good info..... i cant comment much on RON 95 burn hotter compare to RON97, for my scangauge info after some testing both read about the same but i notice 1 major different is but both fuel on the ignition timing is different RON97 ignition advance time is less compare to RON95 maybe this part it kill our ignition coil...


Here are some info to share.
Fuel injection systems