Well, I faced some idling issues too, 1 year ago, when I had my Vios G for 4 years at 126k. My car could not idle for long, anything more than 1 minute, the engine will stutter than die. This is especially so at traffic lights and traffic jams. Went to my usual mechanic, he thought it was the MAF. I changed the sensor for RM280. Problem resolved for 3 days. Then the same problem came back. He later serviced the throttle body. The car was all right was 2 days, and not surprisingly, the problem came back. My mechanic went to his friend who had a better diagnostic tool, and it was reported throttle body failure. Changed the throttle body. Luckily he is my usual mechanic, did not have to pay for it, just use it first and see. And 2 days later, back to the same issue. <<i'm a naughty boy who just used a naughty word>>! Very fed up and very stressful driving the car in KL. Anytime can kong!

Went to another place recommended by a KIA sales agent. This mechanic is a sifu with Vios in Sunway industrial park. Seems even the Subang Jaya Toyota service centre will refer chronic cases to him. He checked my coils, 2 bad coils. Ok, changed them. Better now. But… you guessed it, the problem came back. Now I am really pissed. I then remembered from my days of driving a Conti, the issue could have been related to the O2 sensors. So I got the mech to change the sensors. He did not have new stock but he got some old ones with the same specs (but different sockets). Anyway, he modified the sockets to fit my car. Lo and behold, the problem disappeared. Drove like that for a week until I had the time to install the new O2 sensors.

Idling back to normal, very smooth, even at 600 rpm. Even when the aircon cuts in and out. With aircon on, it idles at 750 rpm.

Total damage, for the MAF – RM280, coils – RM1,320 (ori from Japan), O2 – RM900 (ori from Japan). Throttle body return to my mech.

Fast forward 1 year to last 2 months… idling went flaky a bit, can feel the car vibrating a lot but idling speed still at around 600 rpm. Feels like dying but never died.

Checked with the 2nd mech, tested, everything ok except that when I am in D, my idling will drop further to 500 rpm. Seems my gearbox is putting a lot of drag on the engine (well, I had gearbox issues when the car was 6 months old), kept sending to SC Toyota and they always claimed nothing wrong. But if nothing is wrong, why the h#ll does it “bang” into gears when I am on full throttle? Ok, I drive my cars hard.

Anyway, the mech also found 1 engine mount about to koyak, hence the vibration. For prudent measure, he also adjusted my idling a bit higher, so now it idles at 750, with aircon on about 800 and when I am in gear, D, it drops to 600 rpm (the drop is a bit too high per the mech and he says it could be my gearbox issue now about to manifest into something bigger). And it has been like this for the past 2 months with no further issues. Still driving it hard (I usually “explore” the upper reaches of the RPM).

And since my car is about to be 5 years old and I am getting fed up with the issues, I have already sold it but still using it until my new car arrives (which I have booked 2 months back and SA not sure when the car is coming). Going to other brands… also from the EAST.

Ok, that is my rant for the day. I know it is a bit long but….

dtna7 - Yup, mine is NCP93. Besides the idling issue, the car has been reliable. Even when it had the idling issue, the car got me stranded only once. The rest of the time I managed to limp back home or the workshop, but very stressful driving.

For the NCP93, the accelerator is drive-by-wire whereas for the NCP42, it is still cable operated. IICRC, NCP42 only 1 O2 sensor whereas NCP93 has 2. Actually the car has held up pretty well considering I like to torture my cars. According to my 2 mechs, they even agree with me the NCP42 is a more reliable car, lesser issues. I have come across 5 other NCP93, around the same age as mine suffering the same idling fate - O2 sensors. Hmmmm, planned absolecense of the O2 sensors?

One of my mech advised me it is better to use RON97. If cannot afford, then better to alternate between RON95 and RON97. From his experience, the RON95, tends to run hotter and burn the O2 sensors faster. That is based on his observation because whenever he comes across O2 sensor problems, he will ask the owners what fuel they us.

In a way I have to agree with him because when I alternate RON95 and RON97, my car actually idles better.

My new EASTERN car? From the kimchi land. I have one already for my wifey (a Forte 1.6SX). Changing my own Vios for the Elantra 1.6 HS (only hope the damn SA do not FFK me or I will cancel my order and stick with my dugong). Personally both the kimchi cars are better "cruisers" whereas I find my dugong better for cut and thrust style of driving . At higher speeds, I find the kimchi cars more relaxing to drive whereas the dugong is more frantic.

Since I am getting older now, I need a more relaxing ride. Those days of spirited driving is slowly going away.

I too had issues of dashboard sound, especially at the centre area. Whenever I press down in front of the meters, the sound disappears. Taken to SC a few times, they could not rectify the problem. Will be gone a few weeks, and after that, the sound is back.

Got fed up one day, decided to DIY. It is easy. The panels are easy to take out, they are attached with just push fit clips! Pull the bottom one first, the middle one behind the gearshift, then the 2 side panels and lastly the meter surround. Took me sometime to find out where the sound came from. Use a stick on felt pad to isolate the offending panel from the metal underneath and presto, no sound, after 1 year. There is actually a video on youtibe showing how to take out the panels.

Putting back was easy, just push in.

Had that squealing brake issue when I was using OEM pads. My mech skimmed the leading edge of the pads a bit and the squeal was gone... until the pad wears down again and the squeal came back. Skimmed it a bit and the squeal gone and so on and on and on.

Changed to another brand of pads... no squeal! But these new pads, very dusty. Forgot what brand and stopping power is better than OEM.

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Added on September 24, 2012, 8:41 amIt is the bottom one just behind the gearshift. Just put you fingers under and pull. You need to get that out before you can pull out both the sides one. No need to use too much force.

Better yet, surf the youtube for how to dismantle vios or yaris dashboard.

This post has been edited by flashg: Sep 24 2012, 08:41 AM

Will be letting go my vios tomorrow for another Kcar. Gonna miss it.