off topic, also sharing thought. After reading all the reviews on preve by media, i think that i notice, all saying the iafm+ cvt variant really loud in term of engine sound.
If u follow closely, they mentioned it loud when pedal to metal@at 5k rpm. Not only the engine sound but cvt whining also contribute to that.
The question is, do u need to pedal to metal to overtake driving cvt or even driving uphill or driving up to speed 140-160kmh?
The answer that i gain from my source, is no. Malaysian still new with cvt gbox even its already been around long time ago.
Driving a cvt is not the same as driving twin clutch, conv at n manual where to extract all the power and torque by pedal to metal.
By pedal to metal cvt, the full cvt mode change to 'slow sat mode' where u can see the rev counter climbing slowly to redline(not too slow, it like u r driving only 1 speed gbox, u can see the rev climbing), while in full cvt, the rev can jump to any rpm, depend on input from throttle.
When it reach highest rev, it will static, n of course, u will hear the sound really loud, like driving manual, first gear, rev to redline n never change to next gear.
Pedal to metal only apply in cvt if u need to reach its top most speed(km/h) which is rarely unless u want to test up what is the top speed of ur car or just suka suka.
For example, those who are driving iafm+ cvt, only need to rev around 2k rpm and below for town driving, n 2.5k-3k rpm highway driving, depend on speed u want to reach. If only u want to overtake@needed all the torque available, just pedal up to 4k rpm where the max torque available in engine. Max 85% of throttle input is needed coz beyond 85%,its enter the slow sat mode.
So, in daily or normal driving, balik kampung driving, conquer hilly route, climbing high places n etc,no need to rev beyond 4k rpm. Need better power, just slotted to L mode, it rev 20% higher than normal D mode, n throttle will be crispier n engine braking will be apparent.
Then, if u drive cvt like what it supposed to, then, the engine sound wont be bugging u too much.
Even if u want to gauge the century sprint timing, no need pedal to metal. Just rev up to 4k rpm only coz all torque is there. If u want to get faster timing, slot to L, then rev 4k rpm. While the others keep pedal to metal to reach century sprint n stress the engine to get there(means other 1.6 na with conv auto@manual), u just relaxing cruising at 4k without any jerk due to gear shifting.
Erm, it seems they really used 90kmh control env data for fc in cvt iafm+1.6,rather than target fc @90kmh as in flx 1.3. Coz the real data for flx 1.3 iafm+ cvt is 5.65 L/100km@90kmh, but they publish 6 L/100km based on target fc@90kmh. While mixed fc around 7.68L+-/100km
So, i think combine fc for iafm+1.6 cvt is around 8L+-/100km.
For cfe cvt, no need to comment coz all torque available at 2k rpm, n at 1.5k rpm, already has better torque than iafm+. Just my advice for cfe cvt owners,, try to control ur right foot, dont drive reaching 2k rpm in town driving if u want to extract to most fc for cfe.
You're spot on. This is how I drive my Honda City IDSI and Exora Bold CFE. In normal condition, just need to maintain about 2100 RPM for EB, and 2600 RPM for IDSI to smoothly accelerate. To overtake, use the S or L mode. The surge is there. Especially for EB, the engine will scream when I floored the pedal, but the speed gain is so smal, comparatively. Malaysians are probably could not get used to drive with CVT. That's why Honda dropped it altogether and replaced with conventional AT for the new Honda City, I believe.