Hi guys!

I have been printing a lot of stuff over the weekend. Im still struggling to get the most optimum position for the z-axis. Found out that i will most likely have to glue the nut holding the threaded pole in place since sometimes it will move out of it's socket.

I am also planning for an upgrade once I am done figuring out the problem with my heatbed and RAMPS. I will most likely get either a LCD control module or get a finer nozzle for the heatend. Any other suggestion?

Thanks in advance.

My experiment with abs juice without heatbed


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abs juice looks abit thick no?

ABS juice??? Does it smell bad?

This post has been edited by eehtsitna: Feb 2 2015, 03:15 PM

Since I haven't finished my RepRap (priorities...) I'm not sure how you the RepRap levels the bed? For my Up 3D we key in the variance of the corners from the given nozzle height limit, to do that I basically made a.. feeler meter(?) with a piece of paper to know how far out it is.

I find it thin doesn't work without heatbed. I'm still tweaking to get a good print.

Hi guys!

Anyone have any extra 0.35mm nozzle for sell? I am using a 0.4mm nozzle at the moment and i was wondering if should try out different size of nozzle for my printer.

Another thing. Do you guys build special housing for your module? Having it dangling on the side of my PRUSA i3 doesnt seems right to me.

I have a still-not-in-use-and-not-sold 0.3 mm China JHead hotend for sale. I have been using this Jhead model for all of my prints and so far I have not have any problems with it and all of my prints turned out really nice. I won't be able to sell you the nozzle alone and besides, you have to get the whole hotend since the nozzle is part of the heating block. If you are interested, you can PM me more about it.



Housing for my RPI? I prefer it naked...



My recommendation, just print a housing for it and attach it to your reprap. It will save you the trouble from unplgging and setting it up as you move the printer around and protects it from dust and PLA/ABS stringing buildup.

Eh? The nozzle is part of the heating block? I thought i read somewhere that its actually separate part. Anyway, thanks for pointing out that it is most likely too much trouble trying to switch the hotend/nozzle around all the time. I might as well get a second printer with a different nozzle size.

Have been looking high and low for a housing. Will try to look for it again tonight.

Nozzle is a separate part, if ur not in a hurry, just order one online. as for housing, search thingiverse or design your own

This is wonderful. Spent the whole day reading learnt so much on 3D printing. Count me in... looking to get one for some fun and printing. Will continue to do my research and update if I actually take the plunge.

Feel free to join us! In fact, i bought my DIY 3d printer like a few weeks ago. Having a blast building, tweaking and printing with it. To the point that i have actually finish 1 roll of 1kg filament.

Anyone know where i can get good quality filament at a reasonable price?

Thank you.

http://www.yumeprinter.com/product-category/filament/

I've been seeing these guys post in some fb groups i'm in, not sure about quality but price is def cheap

Thanks! With that price tag, i guess there is no harm in getting a roll and try it out.

converted my mendelmax 1.5 to something diffrent, still need to recalibrate Z and bed leveling my inductive sensor decide to fail on me so have to manually level the bed now , changed the heated to aluminum heatbed but I can't get the dam thing to heat up too 110c, I only able to heat it up to 80c never go beyond that I'm using 12v 30A power supply and only heating the bed my extruder have no problem getting to 230c seem the printer does not want to print ABS just yet

plus last week the green ramps connector melted on me, I always see warning about the connector melting and I see it first hand , and any idea on the heat bed, don't really want to install back my mk2a heat bed to test lol

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Feb 4 2015, 09:56 AM


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I like your workbench, as messy as mine
Also check the transistor that heats the heatbed and see if its overheating, if it is, could be why it cant reach 110, the thermal protection may have kicked in.
http://forum.felixprinters.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=595

This post has been edited by KLKS: Feb 4 2015, 10:23 AM

what you see only tip of the ice berg of messiness I try get a got shot I don't reveal it to the world , you mean the polyfuse or the mosfet? I have a fans beside the mosfet so chance of it overheating quite low but I will check it later, I going to try to heat up my prusa i3 bed see if it can reach 110c or not, as I bought same bed from same source, if not I guess I need to replace the mosfet to IRF3808

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Feb 4 2015, 11:08 AM

Sorry to hear about all the problem you are facing. Makes me wonder though, does the inductive sensor works on a glass print bed?

Well I was expecting problem anyway this printer already have almost 100+ hrs of print time , inductive sensor wont work on glass bed, but capacitive sensor does my printer don't have glass bed I print direct on aluminum,

I have been trying to order some capacitive sensor from Ebay 3 times now all of them end up missing, even if sellers willing to refund but 3 time missing when shipped from 3 different seller is frustrating hehe, I going to try getting another order of capacitive sensor hopefully this time it wont end up missing again

ship them with tracking number.