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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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altan
post Jan 28 2015, 02:00 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Jan 28 2015, 01:18 PM)
Thanks for the encouragement. In fact I would like to thank everyone here for their support and making this thread such a wonderful place for people like me to learn about 3D printing. biggrin.gif

Normally i would prefer to search for a solution in the net but its very difficult if you dont know the name of the thing which you are looking for. Thanks for the link! It is very helpful. Hopefully i didnt over tighten the heatbreak/heater block. tongue.gif
*
Appreciate the acknowledgement. thumbup.gif I am also learning from you guys as well.

Normally I would look up in reprap.org for the names of the things or the terms but forums are still the best place to ask.

If for some reason the tightening fails, use one or two layers of PTFE/teflon tape or plumbers white tape to form a nice seal between the hole and thread. biggrin.gif You can buy it off from any hardware store for a few ringgit.
feiming
post Jan 28 2015, 02:55 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jan 27 2015, 10:43 PM)
Whoops, my bad. Wasn't paying attention.  sweat.gif

Could it be your wiring and or check to see if there is power at your extruder connector? Also, make sure its connected to the correct terminal connector, its D10 for the first extruder and D9 for the second extruder. You might want to post some pictures of your setup.

Can you try check if the MOSFET is working with a multimeter with the dial in voltage.

Your extruder heater cartridge is definitely working but now it could be the connection or the MOSFET or your firmware.
*
I found the problem. Arduino and shield don't have contact. My friend was helping me debugging it thru a phone. We were testing resistor's voltage, i notice it work when i press hard.

Thanks for the advice.

This post has been edited by feiming: Jan 28 2015, 02:55 PM
altan
post Jan 28 2015, 03:05 PM

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QUOTE(feiming @ Jan 28 2015, 02:55 PM)
I found the problem. Arduino and shield don't have contact. My friend was helping me debugging it thru a phone. We were testing resistor's voltage, i notice it work when i press hard.

Thanks for the advice.
*
Sure and how did your friend use his phone to debug the problem?

feiming
post Jan 28 2015, 03:21 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jan 28 2015, 03:05 PM)
Sure and how did your friend use his phone to debug the problem?
*
telling me where to test while he look at the schematic
eehtsitna
post Jan 28 2015, 04:15 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Jan 28 2015, 03:00 PM)
Appreciate the acknowledgement.  thumbup.gif I am also learning from you guys as well.

Normally I would look up in reprap.org for the names of the things or the terms but forums are still the best place to ask.

If for some reason the tightening fails, use one or two layers of PTFE/teflon tape or plumbers white tape to form a nice seal between the hole and thread.  biggrin.gif You can buy it off from any hardware store for a few ringgit.
*
PTFE/teflon or plumber white tape? I thought those cant withstand high temperature. tongue.gif

Anyway, is there a way to prevent PLA from warping while on the glass print bed? Im printing without a heatbed for now since i dont want my house to be on fire yet. tongue.gif
altan
post Jan 28 2015, 05:21 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Jan 28 2015, 04:15 PM)
PTFE/teflon or plumber white tape? I thought those cant withstand high temperature. tongue.gif

Anyway, is there a way to prevent PLA from warping while on the glass print bed? Im printing without a heatbed for now since i dont want my house to be on fire yet. tongue.gif
*
If you check wikipedia http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polytetrafluoroethylene, the melting temperature is quite high and in some hotends, they use a teflon tube as a lubricating sleeve for the filament guide.

I have not tried printing on glass before but you can lay masking tape and use dilute PVA glue for the first layer adhesion and to reduce warpage. Another method is to use raft or brim (my favorite) to create better surface adhesion. Brim creates a border that extends surrounding your print so mounting to the bed surface is better for your print while holding down the edge from warping.

eehtsitna
post Jan 29 2015, 11:20 AM

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I am done with the issue of PLA leakage. Now im trying to troubleshoot another problem. I observed that the first few layers of my prints tend to be squashed and as a result produce print which is off in terms of height. Can anyone suggest what seems to be the issue here?

Thanks again.
cha.968
post Jan 29 2015, 01:31 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Jan 29 2015, 11:20 AM)
I am done with the issue of PLA leakage. Now im trying to troubleshoot another problem. I observed that the first few layers of my prints tend to be squashed and as a result produce print which is off in terms of height. Can anyone suggest what seems to be the issue here?

Thanks again.
*
Warping?
Might refer to this guide although you are not using Ultimaker.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
altan
post Jan 29 2015, 02:09 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Jan 29 2015, 11:20 AM)
I am done with the issue of PLA leakage. Now im trying to troubleshoot another problem. I observed that the first few layers of my prints tend to be squashed and as a result produce print which is off in terms of height. Can anyone suggest what seems to be the issue here?

Thanks again.
*
Let us know which problem you are facing based on the link provided by cha.968.

QUOTE(cha.968 @ Jan 29 2015, 01:31 PM)
Warping?
Might refer to this guide although you are not using Ultimaker.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
*
Nice find! That's a really good link for 3D printing diagnostics. thumbup.gif
eehtsitna
post Jan 29 2015, 02:29 PM

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QUOTE(cha.968 @ Jan 29 2015, 02:31 PM)
Warping?
Might refer to this guide although you are not using Ultimaker.
http://support.3dverkstan.se/article/23-a-visual-ultimaker-troubleshooting-guide
*
Going to bookmarked this for future reference. As for now i guess my problem is both elephant's leg and also warping. tongue.gif
cha.968
post Jan 29 2015, 08:34 PM

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Ricoh Malaysia, local distributor of Makerbot.
are organizing IMAGINE 3D CONTEST
IMAGINE FUNCTIONALITY: THE PERFECT OFFICE AID

CHECK IT OUT: bit.ly/ricohimagine3D

END 8TH MARCH, 2015

TERMS & CONDITIONS:

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eehtsitna
post Jan 30 2015, 09:27 AM

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Some update on my attempt.

Managed to readjust the hotend to reduce the elephant leg's effect. Not to close and not too far from the print bed. Is there actually a guideline i can use for this? For example a distance of 1mm or 2mm from print bed? Its very difficult to "main agak2". And do you guys actually recalibrate your z-axis everytime you print?

I even managed to eliminate the warping effect by using the glue stick approach. Very cheap and efficient way to deal with warping.

Over and out.
DarkTenno
post Jan 30 2015, 09:37 AM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Jan 30 2015, 09:27 AM)
Some update on my attempt.

Managed to readjust the hotend to reduce the elephant leg's effect. Not to close and not too far from the print bed. Is there actually a guideline i can use for this? For example a distance of 1mm or 2mm from print bed? Its very difficult to "main agak2". And do you guys actually recalibrate your z-axis everytime you print?

I even managed to eliminate the warping effect by using the glue stick approach. Very cheap and efficient way to deal with warping.

Over and out.
*
we dont agak-agak the distant we use a very precise and sophisticated tool which is a piece of paper thumbup.gif

this is basic reprap leveling bed,

http://reprap.org/wiki/Leveling_the_Print_Bed

or watch this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED1Gxvw2Rmw

QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Jan 28 2015, 12:17 AM)
Sorry havent got used to a lot of terms and components.

Once again sorry for the dark picture. There is this piece of rectangle thing on the hotend. I guess its the heatsink for the hotend. Notice there are some dark substance on it?
*
if you bought your printer from blomker then it not E3D, that just custom hotend from blomker E3D normally have wider and larger heatsink

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Jan 30 2015, 09:56 AM
eehtsitna
post Jan 30 2015, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jan 30 2015, 10:37 AM)
we dont agak-agak the distant we use a very precise and sophisticated tool which is a piece of paper  thumbup.gif

this is basic reprap leveling bed,

http://reprap.org/wiki/Leveling_the_Print_Bed

or watch this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED1Gxvw2Rmw
*
Yup i used that sophisticated tool too. tongue.gif Just slide in under the tip and move it around see if it gets stuck. Will try to read through the link and see if there is anything i can learn from it.

Thanks again. biggrin.gif
altan
post Jan 30 2015, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jan 30 2015, 09:37 AM)
we dont agak-agak the distant we use a very precise and sophisticated tool which is a piece of paper  thumbup.gif

this is basic reprap leveling bed,

http://reprap.org/wiki/Leveling_the_Print_Bed

or watch this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ED1Gxvw2Rmw
if you bought your printer from blomker then it not E3D, that just custom hotend from blomker E3D normally have wider and larger heatsink
*
Yup, some recommend using business card as a more advance way of leveling the bed.


QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Jan 30 2015, 09:57 AM)
Yup i used that sophisticated tool too. tongue.gif Just slide in under the tip and move it around see if it gets stuck. Will try to read through the link and see if there is anything i can learn from it.

Thanks again. biggrin.gif
*
After a long time of leveling beds and with enough experience, you can use the agak2 method to level beds. I do that a lot nowadays because I ran out of business cards for that. tongue.gif
DarkTenno
post Jan 30 2015, 01:22 PM

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wow you throw out the business card eh? tongue.gif, some business card are thick not really suitable but sticky note can do also, but I'm normally use my feeler gauge if I can find it if not sticky note will do hehe
KLKS
post Jan 30 2015, 01:32 PM

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i do it by agak2, hasn't failed me so far smile.gif. Normally check the bed after every 5-7 prints.
altan
post Jan 30 2015, 01:39 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Jan 30 2015, 01:22 PM)
wow you throw out the business card eh? tongue.gif, some business card are thick not really suitable but sticky note can do also, but I'm normally use my feeler gauge if I can find it if not sticky note will do hehe
*
More like lost the business card biggrin.gif and I normally level with the hotend warmed up to 210 Deg so any hotend expansion is taken into account with the leveling for the first layer.

QUOTE(KLKS @ Jan 30 2015, 01:32 PM)
i do it by agak2, hasn't failed me so far smile.gif. Normally check the bed after every 5-7 prints.
*
Normally, I only check when the first layer print is having problems, otherwise I won't disturb the bed. I also notice the bed level will shift especially after removing a finish print that was stuck to the bed. Probably the prying and pulling caused the problem.

eehtsitna
post Jan 30 2015, 02:36 PM

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I see i see. So its actually normal to recalibrate the printbed after each printing session. I thought i was the one being paranoid here. tongue.gif

That aside, mind sharing what or how does it mean by having problem with the first layer print? As for me, I consider that there is a problem when the first few layer seems to be too thin.

Another thing. The nut holding the threaded pole from the Z-axis on my printer likes to pop out from time to time. Do you guys have issue with that? I am thinking of gluing it in place to save me the trouble. tongue.gif
izzudinhafiz
post Feb 1 2015, 03:30 AM

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i actually use a thick card like a credit card to level the bed. since i can use my caliper to know the exact thickness of the card. so when the nozzle touches the card. i'll set my z height to 0.7 (which is the card's thickness). gives me more control since the card is stiffer so less pinching

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