Hello, good to know there are still active 3D printer owner in Malaysia.

I have recently printed and sold the plastic bits for a Prusa i3 but I have not build one yet on my own. What I like about it is the small number of plastic parts needed to build a functional reprap. I think a Prusa is a good start for first time reprappers since its design to have one single frame supporting the x and z axis. Besides the part count is minimal.

I do know there are some local stores selling 3D printer wares online but they are really pricy when compared to buying from international stores.

So far I have not come across a micro delta kit but a Rostock kit is available at any online stores. About the delta, you should look for modified corners designed for extruded aluminum instead of linear rods, since it was discuss in some forums that the linear rod does wobble quite a fair bit during prints.

BTW, you could just source for the vitamins (nuts and bolts) locally and check your nearest hardware store for threaded rods. You could use your up printer to make the plastuc bits in PLA or get someone to print the parts for you. Since its reprap, you are encouraged to modify, improvise, and jury rig the printer in whatever way for it to function.

I am sure there are some enthusiast but I find a lot of them seem inactive or just gone dark for some reason. Maybe their presence isn't well know or they just simply got bored or frustrated over their printers.

Yes, buying internationally has the risk of being taxed but it occurred to me many times I buy from experience sellers from China or Hong Kong they would declare the package value far lower than the taxable threshold, say USD 10, and so far I have not been taxed from buying from them. You could also request the seller to declare a value lower than the taxable threshold, which I am having a hard time pin pointing the exact value.

I have not bought from 3dprinter.my before but I don't know whether their claim of selling out 10 units of Prusa-i3 (mentioned at the bottom of their product description) is true since there are no reviews or any customer feedback on their website.

You could try purchasing from them and let us know your thought about them, especially their after sales service which normally fails for a lot of 3D printing sale companies because its been reported by 3D printer enthusiast that countless of times they cannot manage many printers located all over the country.

Reference:

Yup, there's the 6 months warranty they stated in their website but I don't know if they provide troubleshooting which I am sure every enthusiast have to experience it someday. I know one makerbot operator who has his printer failed due to extruder jamming and the sales agent could not provide technical service since the technician is based in the states.

Whether its a kit or not, another after sales service is to provide training or documentation in operating the printer which is useful for beginners going into reprap but obviously this step is usially left to the user to hunt for the relevant information online. From my experience, teaching new users on using the printer in a 1 hour session can save them a day's worth of searching and reading solutions online.

I was lucky enough to attend a 3D printing workshop for a reprap printer which I find very useful and at that time I know nothing about 3D printing.

It is magical   when a 3D printer does its job but true enough, the technical factor is still a necessity when it comes to getting successful prints and troubleshooting when the time arise since stuff can randomly go wrong at anytime. New users think that 3D printing has reached a level where pressing buttons is all there is to do to get a statue or a toy coming out of their printers. This is one reason why 3D printing became such a fad in the past few years when Makerbot first introduce desktop grade 3D printers into the market. Apparently their concept was to bring down the technical barrier in 3D printing so everyone at home can just use it as an everyday appliance, say a washing machine or microwave oven.

If you have tried out Makerware, the host software for the Makerbot printers, you will notice how easy and simple to just download models from Thingiverse and just press the start button to initiate the print. I am not against the idea of simplifying 3D printing which a lots of start-ups are doing right now but the fact is that they ignore the technical growth aspect of the 3D printer user, making them less knowledgeable about 3D printing rather turning them into button pushers.
You should try asking them to send you a print sample for one of their printer so you can get a feel of the actual quality.

If its ramps, then the controller board is likely an Arduino Mega 2560.

If the basics is what you aim in achieving, then I would recommend getting the kit since it comes with everything needed to build a reprap and you don't have to worry about sourcing which is somewhat time consuming and requires a good knowledge in hunting down parts. I mean you could start with sourcing for parts but you won't learn the basics until the printer is complete and it would be really frustrating to go from shop to shop and still not get the parts to build a working reprap.

Frankly, I did not start off with a kit but I did get my hands on a reprap printer and from the maintenance, repairs, and testing out mods, I can say I did learn a lot before I got a desktop 3D printer and in which I have modded it till it looks completely unrecognizable. So, as long as you got the budget and time to setup one reprap printer, then I think getting a kit would do wonders.

Also, before you can get your hands dirty and waiting for your kit to be delivered, you might want to read up the print troubleshooting guide at raprap.org which isn't an absolute guide to fixing print problems but its tells you what to expect and what is a possible solution.

Another very common mistake made by new 3D printer enthusiasts is buying cheap or low quality filaments. Try to get filaments from reputable sellers and if unsure, pay a little bit more and try their sample filament before making a bigger order.

Yes you got the idea right and an example is your UP printer software which is both the slicer and host software for your UP printer. What I mean is there are two software you will need to download and install in order to 1) slice/translate your .STL files into machine instructions or commonly known as G-code (hence the file name is .gcode) and 2) to have a host establish a connection to your printer and send the G-code instruction to the printer using your G-code file. You can get both the host and slicer integrated together with a software called Repetier-Host, which is used mainly as a host software but it comes integrated with a few slicer such as Cura, Slic3r, or Skeinforge.

Another host software that is easier to use is Pronterface which is based on a command line host called Printrun but spruced up with a graphical user interface. When I first started, I used Pronterface because the interface was minimal and direct to the point while Repetier-Host has quite a lot of tabs and graphical diarrhea making it hard to navigate for first timers.

Now I am using another host called OctoPrint which has a clean interface and I have it installed and remotely operated through Wifi on a Raspberry Pi. Its available for the PC but why leave your main computer on the whole day just for your 3D printer when you can get a low cost and energy saving mini computer to do the job.

Anyway, regarding slicer software, my default and all time favorite would be Cura 14 by Ultimaker because the number of parameters available for fine tuning is just enough to get by with a good print and doesn't take too long to setup and run a slice on the .STL file. If you want to dig deep into every available parameter for slicing, you should use Slic3r. I find it useful when you really want to perform complicated tasks such as printing multiple objects separately on one go and have different fill pattern which provides different internal structural strength to printed objects. The third is skeinforge but I can't say much since I never have gotten to use it yet.

Apparently, these three slicer software are commonly reviewed by users on forums and blogs, and each of them even with same parameters setups will give different results. I guess you might want to tryout each one of them and see which works best for you and your printer.

they are local, why don't you just call them? much faster waiting them replying your email , when I was looking for a printer I did call few of local seller and end up become loyal customer with blomker hehe

I wouldn't be surprise if there isn't any after sales service. Besides its reprap and a lot of times these businesses tend to fade away when cheaper and less complicated desktop 3D printers enters the market. I know a guy who was also selling reprap printers on his own as a side job didn't last too long (one or two years if I recalled correctly) due to difficult customers and upkeep with after sales services. After that he completely abandoned the business and went on doing other more lucrative businesses.

The attitude is quite common for part time business because probably the margin is high but sale volume is very low. I have an article here that tells the reason why 3D printer business fail in crowd funding but the concept applied to regular business. The summary of the article is that, to succeed and survive by selling 3D printer, you have to meet the minimum unit sale (in thousands) per year just to pay off all the cost in a year no matter how high is your profit margin.

blomker are ok, he usually have stock and fast delivery if he in the country that is , kapton tape there a seller at lelong.com selling them blue painter tape can be found at Ace hardware, If you printing PLA with heatbed just use PVA white glue mixed with water, spread it on the glass bed with bed set to 50-60c is enough to make PLA stick to the glass bed without any problem

PM me for blomker number if you want it , can chat with him at whatapps, check his website first usually he have all the specs listed on the web, FYI he selling

Mendemax 1.5
Prusa i3
Kossel mini

I bought my first printer mendemax 1.5 from him and just got a 2x Prusa i3 kits for a friend of mine joinning us into the 3d printing community

don't get kossel if you dont want to spend to much time tuning , have you try acetone abs solution? mix some ABS with acetone and spread it on the glass bed, and try to enable brim enclosure for the printer also help keeping the heat up

just get the 3d printed mounts, use your mini UP to print a spare for it if it broke (the benefit of having 2 3d printer    ), if you take the acrylic what if that thing broke you have no choice contact them again for replacement and worst case scenario they dont have the part then they recommended you to use a 3d printed replacement part , my prusa i3 all used 3d printer part with Aluminum frame

which one did you get wood or acrylic? btw anyone know where to get acrylic I want to make a enclosure for my delta

hi.nearcomer here..which 3d printer is good for a entry user..price and spec please

well in the video probably the guy mistake + slicing software setting problem , I wonder why did he print it vertically for something like that for optimal strengths those gear best to be printed lay on flat and will have less support materiel and less headache , but still I agree it not something you press print and something magically pops out as marauderz said  

Hi Marauderz,

Have you tried the ABS Juice or Hair Spray or Super Glue trick to prevent ABS print object from warping?
We have tried all and Super Glue is our favourite.

Cover your print surface with Kapton tape and then spread a thin layer of super glue before heating up the bed.
Painter's tape work as well but the tape will stick to your print object during removal from print bed.
And you will need to replace the painter tape everytime.
Give it a try....I am sure you will like this solution.