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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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sooyewguan
post Feb 8 2015, 05:34 PM

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QUOTE(blomker @ Dec 14 2014, 07:43 PM)
It could be the temperature sensor giving some false reading bro.  I have experienced this before but the problem disappeared after two times printing.  I will send you a new temperature sensor together with PTFE lining for standby. 

Btw, this is Blomker Industries custom made screw in temperature sensor.  Ordered about 500pcs of this from the factory.
It is 100K +/- 1% thermistor inserted in a brass screw (M3 thread) and sealed with high temperature epoxy.
The wires are Teflon insulated to withstand the high temperature.

If anyone need a piece, will be happy to provide it free of charge.  Just contact us.

user posted image
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Just broke my thermistor leg doh.gif
Do you guys still have stock for this thermistor ?

altan
post Feb 8 2015, 07:20 PM

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QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 8 2015, 05:34 PM)
Just broke my thermistor leg doh.gif
Do you guys still have stock for this thermistor ?
*
How did you break a leg? biggrin.gif
eehtsitna
post Feb 10 2015, 08:43 AM

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Where is everybody? Why so quiet all of a sudden. Anyway, here is another question from yours truly.

How do i change the homing position for my PRUSA i3? Been looking for the answer on google so either i am clueless or I do not know what I am looking for.

Thanks in advance.
DarkTenno
post Feb 10 2015, 09:32 AM

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via firmware you can manually set your home position, if you firmware enabled eeprom you can set it via eeprom if I'm not mistaken, why do you need to change your home? you can always add a custom gcode line in slic3r or cura to more the hotend where ever you one while it heating or after finish printing smile.gif
eehtsitna
post Feb 10 2015, 09:43 AM

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Hmmm... guess i better not play around with the setting in the firmware. I find it inconvenient to have the home position in front. Most of all, i would like the printer to present the completed print in front so i wont have to push all the wiring aside.

I will most likely try that approach you have mentioned which is to tweak the setting in slic3r.

Thanks again. biggrin.gif
sooyewguan
post Feb 10 2015, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 8 2015, 07:20 PM)
How did you break a leg?  biggrin.gif
*
my e3d hotend keep clogging, so i have to dissemble everything and put it back again. i guess after few time, the leg just gave up sweat.gif
sooyewguan
post Feb 10 2015, 03:16 PM

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Everyone is busy with CNY I guess.

Just arrived rclxms.gif rclxms.gif
user posted image

what should i print hmm.gif hmm.gif
eehtsitna
post Feb 10 2015, 03:40 PM

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QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 10 2015, 04:16 PM)
Everyone is busy with CNY I guess.

Just arrived  rclxms.gif  rclxms.gif
user posted image

what should i print  hmm.gif  hmm.gif
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May i know how much did you pay for these? biggrin.gif
sooyewguan
post Feb 10 2015, 04:18 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 10 2015, 03:40 PM)
May i know how much did you pay for these? biggrin.gif
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ABS and PLA is SGD38.00

Flexi is bit expensive, SGD90.00
eehtsitna
post Feb 10 2015, 04:39 PM

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QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 10 2015, 05:18 PM)
ABS and PLA is SGD38.00

Flexi is bit expensive, SGD90.00
*
So you bought it from Singapore? Wonder how much its going to cost to have it shipped to my location. tongue.gif
sooyewguan
post Feb 10 2015, 05:05 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 10 2015, 04:39 PM)
So you bought it from Singapore? Wonder how much its going to cost to have it shipped to my location. tongue.gif
*
Well Qwikfab doesnt charge much on shipping, only SGD15 to Melaka.

Try check the cost to ship to your place.
http://web.qwikfab.com/

altan
post Feb 10 2015, 06:10 PM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 10 2015, 09:43 AM)
Hmmm... guess i better not play around with the setting in the firmware. I find it inconvenient to have the home position in front. Most of all, i would like the printer to present the completed print in front so i wont have to push all the wiring aside.

I will most likely try that approach you have mentioned which is to tweak the setting in slic3r.

Thanks again. biggrin.gif
*
If not mistaken, Slic3r allows you to add additional Gcode to the start and end of the print. You can add a Gcode command saying where you want the hotend to move to the end of the print. I forgot which command to use, you have to search it up.

Recently been busy... sweat.gif


QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 10 2015, 01:58 PM)
my e3d hotend keep clogging, so i have to dissemble everything and put it back again. i guess after few time, the leg just gave up  sweat.gif
*
I have a few 100k NTC thermistor for sale, If you like, just PM me. Though its not the same as the one in your picture, it a 1mm glass glass sealed thermistor, the common one.


QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 10 2015, 05:05 PM)
Well Qwikfab doesnt charge much on shipping, only SGD15 to Melaka.

Try check the cost to ship to your place.
http://web.qwikfab.com/
*
Lucky for me, I travel between JB and SG so I can go over to their office, chit chat, and buy a couple of filaments... tongue.gif

This post has been edited by altan: Feb 10 2015, 06:11 PM
eehtsitna
post Feb 10 2015, 07:00 PM

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QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 10 2015, 06:05 PM)
Well Qwikfab doesnt charge much on shipping, only SGD15 to Melaka.

Try check the cost to ship to your place.
http://web.qwikfab.com/
*
Thanks for the info. Definitely good to have multiple option for filament supply. Anyway, have anyone tried getting filament from yume 3d printing yet?
DarkTenno
post Feb 11 2015, 11:14 AM

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QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 10 2015, 09:43 AM)
Hmmm... guess i better not play around with the setting in the firmware. I find it inconvenient to have the home position in front. Most of all, i would like the printer to present the completed print in front so i wont have to push all the wiring aside.

I will most likely try that approach you have mentioned which is to tweak the setting in slic3r.

Thanks again. biggrin.gif
*
this is my start and stop gcode in slic3r setting

Start gcode
CODE

G28; home all axes
G1 Z10 F5000; Z to 10MM
G1 Y100; Y to 100MM


Stop gcode
CODE

M104 S0; turn off temperature
M140 S0; Make sure the bed is turned off.
G28 X0; home X axis
G1 Y190; Y to 190MM
M84    ; disable motors


and I have changed my mosfet, my heated bed still can't go beyond 88c, I will try to add relay if that does not work I probably can assume the heated bed itself the problem doh.gif

QUOTE(sooyewguan @ Feb 10 2015, 01:58 PM)
my e3d hotend keep clogging, so i have to dissemble everything and put it back again. i guess after few time, the leg just gave up  sweat.gif
*
printing PLA? e3d have a bad reputation with jamming when printing PLA but they print fine with ABS

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Feb 11 2015, 11:22 AM
feiming
post Feb 11 2015, 07:44 PM

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Nvm.

This post has been edited by feiming: Feb 11 2015, 10:31 PM
DarkTenno
post Feb 12 2015, 12:35 PM

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manage to get my aluminum heatbed to heat up to 100c but it will never pass 105c, I have to bump up my power supply to 14v in order for it to get to 100c if the bed only getting 12v it will never able to reach 100c as claim by 3dprinter.my

Did contacting via email but never got any reply calling them always said need to check with technician not sure when but never got any reply ever since, adding no so good review on their product pages obviously wont get approved by them

to prove my point I connected the heated bed to a power supply directly and monitor the temp via my IR thermometer with 12v max it can go only to 90c, when I bumped the voltage 14v (equal to supplying more power to it) it able to ge to 105c and stop there

heated bed work fine if you printing PLA but if you guys plan to print ABS be aware that those aluminum heated bed sold by 3dprinter.my will not heat up too 100c with 12v power supply I guessing you will need at least 15v or probably 24v to the heated bed
wnyeen
post Feb 12 2015, 12:50 PM

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guys, where to get M4 and M5 tap drill bit? Also epoxy glue ... assembling my kossel mini...thx
KLKS
post Feb 12 2015, 03:47 PM

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QUOTE(DarkTenno @ Feb 12 2015, 12:35 PM)
manage to get my aluminum heatbed to heat up to 100c but it will never pass 105c, I have to bump up my power supply to 14v in order for it to get to 100c if the bed only getting 12v it will never able to reach 100c as claim by 3dprinter.my

Did contacting via email but never got any reply calling them always said need to check with technician not sure when but never got any reply ever since, adding no so good review on their product pages obviously wont get approved by them

to prove my point I connected the heated bed to a power supply directly and monitor the temp via my IR thermometer with 12v max it can go only to 90c, when I bumped the voltage 14v (equal to supplying more power to it) it able to ge to 105c and stop there

heated bed work fine if you printing PLA but if you guys plan to print ABS be aware that those aluminum heated bed sold by 3dprinter.my will not heat up too 100c with 12v power supply I guessing you will need at least 15v or probably 24v to the heated bed
*
Did you try measuring how many Amps the bed was pulling vs total amps pushable by the power supply?
altan
post Feb 13 2015, 09:29 AM

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Does anyone know how to contact the e-Nable community in Malaysia (the group that showed up in the newspaper for 3D printing a hand for a kid) because someone I know would like to contact them.
cha.968
post Feb 13 2015, 07:48 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 13 2015, 09:29 AM)
Does anyone know how to contact the e-Nable community in Malaysia (the group that showed up in the newspaper for 3D printing a hand for a kid) because someone I know would like to contact them.
*
You could try FaceboOK
https://m.facebook.com/pebbelreka

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