Ah! I see! Will try to troubleshoot the thermistor tonight.

Congrats on the assembly.

As for your heater bed issue, it could be a few things but I don't know you will have the tools to test the system. Anyway you should read this http://forums.reprap.org/read.php?219,169361,169361 since this has the same issue as your heater bed transistor overheating. You have to check the resistance in your heater bed to find the current draw for a 12 volt supply. I have a 8" x 8" MK2A heater bed and it has a resistance of about 1 to 2 ohms which means it will draw about 6 to 12 Amps, so your bed should be between these resistance ranges. Another thing to look for are the polyfuse, which are the flat light brown pieces (either shape as a disc or square) mounted next to the transistor. Make sure the plastic bit that got burnt isn't the fuse because the fuse may not work properly when damaged. If all else fails, it could be the transistor and you may have to try replacing it with a different one.

Try checking your heater bed connection and measure the resistance of the heater bed.

Not heater bed,I don't have heat bed. Its the hotend. Extruder heater.

This post has been edited by feiming: Jan 26 2015, 03:30 PM

Guys! How do i config the print area around the center of the bed? I tried adjusting the home position but it seems like it doesnt work that way.

Thanks in advance.


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Is your bed size setting correct during slicing ?

Print area 200 x 200
Centre 100 x 100

That should be right.

I was told by a friend that some thermistor has polarity so i switch the polar and now it works! The heatbed is around 28C in room temperature so thats normal. Now i need to test out the resistance of the heatbed before proceeding to the RAMPS.

PS. Is it normal for PLA to leak out of the hotend?

Thanks for the advice! I will check on the MOSFET and polyfuses too.

what software you use for slicing? did you home your printer ? I like using repetier host as it can visualize the part same goes with cura but I mainly use repetier host as it easy to use

first check few thing

1. Y endstop position
2. X endstop position

for my prusa i3,

Y is at the back and X is on the left (viewed from the front) and take note that for prusa max X is only 180 more than that you will hit the X END, my Y I manage to get 200mm as I put a extended Y endstop holder if not I can only get 190 more than that it will hit the frame rod

normal if coming out from nozzle that what we call oozing , but if coming out from other part example at the joint of the heatbreak that not normal

This post has been edited by DarkTenno: Jan 27 2015, 11:33 AM

Hi, eehtsitna
It is abnormal.
May you snap photos of leaking area, so that we could help to comment?

Got the problem corrected 98%, the Y bed was unequal, right side was off by 2-4mm, after correcting it, prints seem more square.

Whoops, my bad. Wasn't paying attention.

Could it be your wiring and or check to see if there is power at your extruder connector? Also, make sure its connected to the correct terminal connector, its D10 for the first extruder and D9 for the second extruder. You might want to post some pictures of your setup.

Can you try check if the MOSFET is working with a multimeter with the dial in voltage.

Your extruder heater cartridge is definitely working but now it could be the connection or the MOSFET or your firmware.

This post has been edited by altan: Jan 27 2015, 10:47 PM

Can you post a picture of your thermistor or your hotend? Thermistors don't have polarity because it is sensed based on the change in resistance with temperature. The one thermal sensor that has polarity are thermocouples, which is sensed based on the voltage (polarity) produced when heated.

"Leak out" is quite vague for us, you might have to state where its leaking...

Sorry havent got used to a lot of terms and components.

Once again sorry for the dark picture. There is this piece of rectangle thing on the hotend. I guess its the heatsink for the hotend. Notice there are some dark substance on it?


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No worries, you will eventually learn the terms and components while tinkering with your printer.

That is bad, I mean that dark substance on top the heater block indicates PLA leakage. This is usually due to the heater block coming loose when heated or the threading may have been compromised. One way to fix this is to tighten the connection between heater block and heat sink by using a spanner. Make sure to heat up the hotend to about 100 to 150 deg before attempting to unscrew or tighten the connection because the PLA inside the hot end will make it difficult to unscrew or tighten. By the way, that should be a E3D hotend right?

Hi, eehtsitna don't mention it ("Sorry").
You got the right attitude to ask and learn.
altan are right too for the instruction.
You can search online for the detailed assembly guide to tighten the heater block.

For example:
http://wiki.e3d-online.com/index.php?title=E3D-v6_Assembly

Finally done designing the mounting for the E3D hotend


This is how it looks like on the printer together with an inductive proximity sensor

That's one huge proximity sensor!

Yup thats a E3D hotend. Managed to fix this issue before i go to work.

Will test it out and see if there is still any leakage when i get back home from work.

Thanks for the encouragement. In fact I would like to thank everyone here for their support and making this thread such a wonderful place for people like me to learn about 3D printing.

Normally i would prefer to search for a solution in the net but its very difficult if you dont know the name of the thing which you are looking for. Thanks for the link! It is very helpful. Hopefully i didnt over tighten the heatbreak/heater block.

This post has been edited by eehtsitna: Jan 28 2015, 01:20 PM