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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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altan
post Feb 14 2016, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(huiko12 @ Feb 14 2016, 02:49 AM)
@altan just wondering, will prusa i3 give the same quality as the consumer printer ?
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A RepRap can achieve consumer grade prints by sourcing quality hardware (linear rods, lead screws, frame, electronics, design, etc) and optimising the settings for the electronics and firmware. In other words, RepRap aren't consumer grade printers unless you intentionally put in the time, money, and effort to redesign and build a consumer grade RepRap printer. RepRap gives you the basic framework to barely print something but a lot of development is needed to make it a great 3D printer.

I always have second thought about buying a kit from any seller because theses kits may have parts that aren't up to standard.

Also, hihi recently built a Prusa i3 steel and he might be able to share some insights on his printer. If he is still active.
huiko12
post Feb 14 2016, 02:33 PM

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where can i order all the stuff except for the main body ... they use Full acrylic frame i was thinking to make mine full metal frame
altan
post Feb 14 2016, 02:47 PM

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QUOTE(huiko12 @ Feb 14 2016, 02:33 PM)
where can i order all the stuff except for the main body ... they use Full acrylic frame i was thinking to make mine full metal frame
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Refer to page 72 in this topic for the steel frames. https://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2249129/+1420

Sourcing for the chrome plated linear bearings locally is expensive, so I suggest try taobao or eBay. Same for electronics as well.

You can get the hotend set from me. See my sig below.
Gameview
post Feb 15 2016, 10:55 AM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 13 2016, 02:42 AM)
The most budge friendly RepRap is still the Prusa i3. There are not many RepRap variants sold in Malaysia other than the Mendel, Rostock/kossel, and Prusa. On the other hand, if you have the budget for anything more than 2.5k then I would recommend getting a consumer 3D printer that's fully assemble (if you are not the adventurous type). Just note that a lot of these desktop 3D printer vary in price and the price absolutely does not guarantee reliablility. Even an expensive Makerbot can get jams and print issues compared to cheaper clones like the Flashforge for the same specs.

My advice is to read up about 3D printers first or ask about other people experience before deciding on getting a 3D printer.

If you just want to print a few things, then I would recommend using a 3D printing service as seen in my signature below.  whistling.gif
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Hi, im new in this field. Been reading/researching the printer but seem i lost in track. Any recommendation 3D printer for new entry user?
hihi
post Feb 15 2016, 05:41 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 14 2016, 12:02 PM)
A RepRap can achieve consumer grade prints by sourcing quality hardware (linear rods, lead screws, frame, electronics, design, etc) and optimising the settings for the electronics and firmware. In other words, RepRap aren't consumer grade printers unless you intentionally put in the time, money, and effort to redesign and build a consumer grade RepRap printer. RepRap gives you the basic framework to barely print something but a lot of development is needed to make it a great 3D printer.

I always have second thought about buying a kit from any seller because theses kits may have parts that aren't up to standard.

Also, hihi recently built a Prusa i3 steel and he might be able to share some insights on his printer. If he is still active.
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Recently busy, who interest to build their own printer can just ask here. Sure i will share my experience here.
Gameview
post Feb 16 2016, 10:17 AM

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QUOTE(Gameview @ Feb 15 2016, 10:55 AM)
Hi, im new in this field. Been reading/researching the printer but seem i lost in track. Any recommendation 3D printer for new entry user?
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QUOTE(hihi @ Feb 15 2016, 05:41 PM)
Recently busy, who interest to build their own printer can just ask here. Sure i will share my experience here.
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SupermotoXL
post Feb 16 2016, 10:30 AM

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Hey guys, sharing my 3d printing project... WIP.

Dev page details: Foldable drone racer


Photos:
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This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Feb 16 2016, 10:31 AM
ozak
post Feb 16 2016, 10:43 AM

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QUOTE(SupermotoXL @ Feb 16 2016, 10:30 AM)
Hey guys, sharing my 3d printing project... WIP.

Dev page details:  Foldable drone racer
Photos:
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How strong is the print plastic strength? Have you test the strength, rigid etc?
altan
post Feb 16 2016, 01:00 PM

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QUOTE(SupermotoXL @ Feb 16 2016, 10:30 AM)
Hey guys, sharing my 3d printing project... WIP.

Dev page details:  Foldable drone racer
Photos:
user posted image

user posted image

user posted image

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user posted image

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Wow nice. thumbup.gif
SupermotoXL
post Feb 16 2016, 01:30 PM

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QUOTE(ozak @ Feb 16 2016, 10:43 AM)
How strong is the print plastic strength? Have you test the strength, rigid etc?
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I'm using ABS filament bought from here: http://www.banggood.com/1_75mm-3D-Printer-...6363706201312DW

They are super strong compare to my original makerbot and pp3dp filament i bought from the vendor. China made from banggood vendor filament seems to be stronger more elastic and ultra durable plus very cheap for 1kg per-roll. I already tested a lot of my published 3D printed project for my drone and its super tough.

Photos:
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Check out my projects here, mostly i use ABS plastic from China:
http://www.supermotoxl.com/3D-printed-real...enu-id-124.html

This post has been edited by SupermotoXL: Feb 16 2016, 01:31 PM
Drian
post Feb 18 2016, 01:17 AM

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I was thinking of changing the plastic parts on the frame in my prusa i3 to pure aluminium. X-axis motor mount plastic holding the LM8UU broke. No big deal , can just print another one but I thought perhaps changing it to all aluminum would look better.
Has anyone done it before or know if any company sells it?

altan
post Feb 18 2016, 01:50 AM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Feb 18 2016, 01:17 AM)
I was thinking of changing the plastic parts on the frame in my prusa i3 to pure aluminium. X-axis motor mount plastic holding the LM8UU broke. No big deal , can just print another one but I thought perhaps changing it to all aluminum would look better.
Has anyone done it before or know if any company sells it?
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How did the x-axis motor mount break? Was the plastic part printed with ABS or PLA?

Aluminium would be expensive and probably some machine shops may not make it for you considering the design of the part. I don't think any company would stock Prusa i3 printable parts in aluminum.
Drian
post Feb 18 2016, 02:01 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 18 2016, 01:50 AM)
How did the x-axis motor mount break? Was the plastic part printed with ABS or PLA?

Aluminium would be expensive and probably some machine shops may not make it for you considering the design of the part. I don't think any company would stock Prusa i3 printable parts in aluminum.
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I guess there were many times the z axis limit switch wasnt aligned properly so when the print head crash the bed causing stress on the plastic part holding the lm8uu.
eehtsitna
post Feb 18 2016, 02:32 PM

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Havent visit this thread and play with my 3D printer for a while. How is everyone around here? biggrin.gif
altan
post Feb 18 2016, 02:41 PM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Feb 18 2016, 02:01 PM)
I guess there were many times the z axis limit switch wasnt aligned properly so when the print head crash the bed causing stress on the plastic part holding the lm8uu.
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I also really hate it when the hotend crashes into the build plate. I think better if the part breaks or else if it keeps going without stopping, the aluminum couplers will deform from continuous stretching.

QUOTE(eehtsitna @ Feb 18 2016, 02:32 PM)
Havent visit this thread and play with my 3D printer for a while. How is everyone around here? biggrin.gif
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Thread activity died down a while a go. Now picking up speed I think. laugh.gif

Me currently busy fulfilling 3D printing orders from clients. whistling.gif

A little overloaded right now and its almost time for me to buy a second 3D printer.
izzudinhafiz
post Feb 18 2016, 06:44 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 18 2016, 02:41 PM)
I also really hate it when the hotend crashes into the build plate. I think better if the part breaks or else if it keeps going without stopping, the aluminum couplers will deform from continuous stretching.
Thread activity died down a while a go. Now picking up speed I think.  laugh.gif

Me currently busy fulfilling 3D printing orders from clients.  whistling.gif

A little overloaded right now and its almost time for me to buy a second 3D printer.
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Nice to hear business is good for you! biggrin.gif Maybe one day you can make a 3D printer supply bussiness! Easy for us to get good local stuffs hehehe
altan
post Feb 18 2016, 10:20 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Feb 18 2016, 06:44 PM)
Nice to hear business is good for you! biggrin.gif Maybe one day you can make a 3D printer supply bussiness! Easy for us to get good local stuffs hehehe
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Thanks but for that to happen, I will need to invest in setting up a metal fab workshop and also do a proper survey on the number of 3D printer owners in Malaysia. I can keep supplies but if no one wants to buy them then I have a lot more than I can use for maintaining my current printer. biggrin.gif
Drian
post Feb 22 2016, 11:26 AM

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Anyone here has done a core xy 3d printer build?

Thinking of taking apart my prusa i3 to build one using aluminium extrusion.


altan
post Feb 22 2016, 12:31 PM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Feb 22 2016, 11:26 AM)
Anyone here has done a core xy 3d printer build?

Thinking of taking apart my prusa i3 to build one using aluminium extrusion.
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Nope but I have seen someone made a small 3D printer with that design. Why don't you buy a new set of linear rods and bearings instead of dismantling the Prusa i3. You can sell the assembled Prusa i3 to someone who wants to get into RepRap quickly.

Also, you might need to purchase really long GT2 timing belt since the corexy design utilizes long belt lengths. The belt follows along the 3 sides of the printer frame and loops on towards the centre so, the length depends on the perimeter of the printer size.
izzudinhafiz
post Feb 22 2016, 05:19 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 22 2016, 12:31 PM)
Nope but I have seen someone made a small 3D printer with that design. Why don't you buy a new set of linear rods and bearings instead of dismantling the Prusa i3. You can sell the assembled Prusa i3 to someone who wants to get into RepRap quickly.

Also, you might need to purchase really long GT2 timing belt since the corexy design utilizes long belt lengths. The belt follows along the 3 sides of the printer frame and loops on towards the centre so, the length depends on the perimeter of the printer size.
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u can get free length GT2 belts on ebay for quite a bargain. although the shipping time for eBay is always unpredictable. If im not mistaken, blomker sells GT2 belts by the meter as well. quite reasonably priced aswell

on a side note, why dont upgrade to Hiwin linear rails instead of linear rods and linear bearings? They're much better at resisting twisting motion. i've used them for a different project. a shop at Loke Yew sells them for like RM 100 for a 45cm long ones if i recall correctly

This post has been edited by izzudinhafiz: Feb 22 2016, 05:21 PM

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