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 Repraps and DIY 3D Printing!, Open source hardware~

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altan
post Feb 22 2016, 06:01 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Feb 22 2016, 05:19 PM)
u can get free length GT2 belts on ebay for quite a bargain. although the shipping time for eBay is always unpredictable. If im not mistaken, blomker sells GT2 belts by the meter as well. quite reasonably priced aswell

on a side note, why dont upgrade to Hiwin linear rails instead of linear rods and linear bearings? They're much better at resisting twisting motion. i've used them for a different project. a shop at Loke Yew sells them for like RM 100 for a 45cm long ones if i recall correctly
*
Good to know there a shop selling linear rails in KL for a reasonable price, provided if you want to spend that kind of money. biggrin.gif

Nowadays you can get stuff delivered from ebay within 2 - 4 weeks even for economy shipping. Obviously there is still that randomness factor but my last batch of shipping all came within 2 weeks. hmm.gif

By the way, I have a 10 meter roll of GT2 timing belt.
Drian
post Feb 22 2016, 07:01 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Feb 22 2016, 05:19 PM)
u can get free length GT2 belts on ebay for quite a bargain. although the shipping time for eBay is always unpredictable. If im not mistaken, blomker sells GT2 belts by the meter as well. quite reasonably priced aswell

on a side note, why dont upgrade to Hiwin linear rails instead of linear rods and linear bearings? They're much better at resisting twisting motion. i've used them for a different project. a shop at Loke Yew sells them for like RM 100 for a 45cm long ones if i recall correctly
*
Does the rail look heavy or else the stepper motor have to push lots of weight around, slowing the max printing speed.

I'm pretty sure someone would have thought of using it
Drian
post Feb 22 2016, 07:06 PM

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QUOTE(altan @ Feb 22 2016, 12:31 PM)
Nope but I have seen someone made a small 3D printer with that design. Why don't you buy a new set of linear rods and bearings instead of dismantling the Prusa i3. You can sell the assembled Prusa i3 to someone who wants to get into RepRap quickly.

Also, you might need to purchase really long GT2 timing belt since the corexy design utilizes long belt lengths. The belt follows along the 3 sides of the printer frame and loops on towards the centre so, the length depends on the perimeter of the printer size.
*
there's probably 700-800 ringgit worth of salvageable parts there , 4 8mm rod, 2 100mm rods, electronics, 8 lm8uu, 5 stepper motors, heat plate, bearing.

Unless I can sell it at that price.

altan
post Feb 22 2016, 07:29 PM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Feb 22 2016, 07:06 PM)
there's probably 700-800 ringgit worth of salvageable parts there , 4 8mm rod, 2 100mm rods, electronics,  8 lm8uu, 5 stepper motors, heat plate, bearing.

Unless I can sell it at that price.
*
PMed you for your Prusa i3. biggrin.gif

Also, the rails are considered better than the linear rods since, they are usually made with hardened steel (very hard to bend and never flexes). I worked with one reprap printer using these rails and they are way better than linear rods and bearings since you only need one rail each to support a build platform or extruder in the 2 horizontal axis. You can use 2 rails for the z-axis, placed on two ends of one side of the printer against the wall.
Drian
post Feb 23 2016, 03:34 PM

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QUOTE(izzudinhafiz @ Feb 22 2016, 05:19 PM)
u can get free length GT2 belts on ebay for quite a bargain. although the shipping time for eBay is always unpredictable. If im not mistaken, blomker sells GT2 belts by the meter as well. quite reasonably priced aswell

on a side note, why dont upgrade to Hiwin linear rails instead of linear rods and linear bearings? They're much better at resisting twisting motion. i've used them for a different project. a shop at Loke Yew sells them for like RM 100 for a 45cm long ones if i recall correctly
*
I've researched a little bit on the rails and it seems like people do use it , especially on the Kossel kit.
On aliexpress I can get 3 400mm rails and 3 "blocks" for about 60usd.

The price you quoted is it "rails" only or come with the block?
do you have the name of the shop.


hihi
post Feb 25 2016, 09:50 AM

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Do you guys using fan to cool down during your printing? I'm using abs and always having problem for the edge especially smaller object.
Print a 2 in 1 fan duct, it's help but sometimes will have crack problem.

altan
post Feb 25 2016, 09:57 AM

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QUOTE(hihi @ Feb 25 2016, 09:50 AM)
Do you guys using fan to cool down during your printing? I'm using abs and always having problem for the edge especially smaller object.
Print a 2 in 1 fan duct, it's help but sometimes will have crack problem.
*
ABS is very difficult to print for first time users. PLA is an easy alternative but trade off between s the material property.

For ABS printing, never use an external cooling fan at all even during bridging. The cooling fan causes severe warping and causes uneven temperature around the print. This will lead to uneven heights and even cracks.

I find that printing ABS requires no air flow and steady environment temperature.
izzudinhafiz
post Feb 26 2016, 06:50 PM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Feb 23 2016, 03:34 PM)
I've researched a little bit on the rails and it seems like people do use it , especially on the Kossel kit.
On aliexpress I can get 3 400mm rails and 3 "blocks" for about 60usd.

The price you quoted is it "rails" only or come with the block?
do you have the name of the shop.
*
a rail and a block. They're more expensive here than online tho. The best benefit is their ability to resist torsion force. If u hold ur extruder and try to twist it, the rods and bearing will flex. I've used these rails on a cutting machine and they can resist huge torsion forces.

QUOTE(hihi @ Feb 25 2016, 09:50 AM)
Do you guys using fan to cool down during your printing? I'm using abs and always having problem for the edge especially smaller object.
Print a 2 in 1 fan duct, it's help but sometimes will have crack problem.
*
Yeah, ABS is extremely difficult to print properly. The only fan i turn on when printing ABS is the hotend fan to keep it from overheating. The fan that is pointed to the print is turned off. Heated bed temp has to be quite high, I have mine set at 110C and also u need to prevent the part from cooling down. Keep airflow to minimum and try to keep the environment temp as high as possible.

This post has been edited by izzudinhafiz: Feb 26 2016, 06:53 PM
bai1101
post Mar 1 2016, 10:40 AM

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Guy i got a small gear from robot that few of it teeth Is gone

Possible to use 3d print to duplicate it?
altan
post Mar 1 2016, 10:53 AM

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QUOTE(bai1101 @ Mar 1 2016, 10:40 AM)
Guy i got a small gear from robot that few of it teeth Is gone

Possible to use 3d print to duplicate it?
*
A picture with a ruler will help a lot for us. I am assuming the gear is a nylon gear.
Prosperer
post Mar 3 2016, 10:42 PM

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Anyone know where i can get aluminum profile 20x20 here in malaysia? i'm contact misumi malaysia but they only accept order from company.

I still need 10pcs more to complete my list for corexy
cha.968
post Mar 3 2016, 11:13 PM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 3 2016, 10:42 PM)
Anyone know where i can get aluminum profile 20x20 here in malaysia? i'm contact misumi malaysia but they only accept order from company.
I still need 10pcs more to complete my list for corexy
*
PM me the list, the length and quantity. I may try to buy for you.
No surcharges.
izzudinhafiz
post Mar 5 2016, 01:29 AM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 3 2016, 10:42 PM)
Anyone know where i can get aluminum profile 20x20 here in malaysia? i'm contact misumi malaysia but they only accept order from company.

I still need 10pcs more to complete my list for corexy
*
KAMCO ALUMINIUM SDN BHD

Lot No.338, Jalan Sungai Besi,
57100 Kuala Lumpur,
Malaysia

they accept walk ins. I've bought from them before
Prosperer
post Mar 5 2016, 01:39 PM

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Journey to build second 3d printer start rclxm9.gif

user posted image


Drian
post Mar 6 2016, 02:47 AM

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QUOTE(Prosperer @ Mar 5 2016, 01:39 PM)
Journey to build second 3d printer start  rclxm9.gif

user posted image
*
Nice corexy build,
I'm planning to build one as well except using hiwin linear rails(clone)

Prosperer
post Mar 6 2016, 03:03 PM

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Nice, share your build also smile.gif hiwin is nice but i can't afford it right now but i will upgrade to hiwin in the future
kalkamel
post Mar 6 2016, 06:25 PM

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Does anyone offer service for assembling a Prusa i3 kit plus calibration? I may be able to get my hands on one but I just don't have the time to put it together.
Prosperer
post Mar 6 2016, 07:37 PM

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QUOTE(kalkamel @ Mar 6 2016, 06:25 PM)
Does anyone offer service for assembling a Prusa i3 kit plus calibration? I may be able to get my hands on one but I just don't have the time to put it together.
*
Check out @altan salepage here https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3843739# i think he offer services for assembling and calibration for rm500 fee. If you from kuching then i can help biggrin.gif
Drian
post Mar 8 2016, 09:57 AM

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Does anyone know where to get PETG filament? From what I read,

It is stronger than both PLA and ABS.
Minimal shrinkage which means larger print parts can be used.
Extrusion temp around 240c and 70-75C bed/ non heated bead
means it's not as taxing as printing abs and closer to PLA.

Thinking of using this to print my printer parts once it's done as PLA doesn't last.


izzudinhafiz
post Mar 8 2016, 12:00 PM

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QUOTE(Drian @ Mar 8 2016, 09:57 AM)
Does anyone know where to get PETG filament? From what I read,

It is stronger than both PLA and ABS.
Minimal shrinkage which means larger print parts can be used.
Extrusion temp around 240c and 70-75C bed/ non heated bead
means it's not as taxing as printing abs and closer to PLA.

Thinking of using this to print my printer parts once it's done as PLA doesn't last.
*
https://reprapworld.com/?products/listing&cPath/_1590

http://taulman3d.com/buy-direct.html - look at their Tech-G material. u have to scroll down abit

i dont think it'll be easy to find PETG locally.

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