Hi, want to see how good is the rotary hammer, compared to impact drill ?



I just published a simple video clip showing the performance comparison between typical impact drill and rotary hammer to youtube, for educational purpose.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RZ6BZI27gSg

BTW, please follow the safety precaution while handling and operating power tools. I was very lucky because no injury occurred during the making of this video clip.

I used Exceed brand 550W impact drill which I bought some years ago. The drill bit is moderately used, but still in good condition. The size of the drill bit is 6mm, which I bought from local hardware store. For rotary hammer, I used 2 SDS+ drill bits, 6mm and 12mm. The concrete block looks small, but is also quite awesome, because, it is quite heavy, at 39.4 kg. From the density calcution, the concrete block density is 1800 kg/m^3

The first cut, I drilled with impact drill, and you can see it took about 1 minute to drill to the depth for inserting typical plastic wall plug (wall anchor). What we cannot feel from the video is the 'pain' caused from the vibration.

The 2nd cut, showing the drilling with rotary hammer with 6mm drill bit, it tooks about 3 seconds. Since it finished quite quickly, I tried with 12mm drill bit, and you can see yourself the result in the 3rd cut.

Finally, here is the behind the scene, when making this video clip.



If Makita HR2810 is my favorite power tool, then the 'Keep' brand ball head tripod is my favorite photography tool.

BTW, I am just an IT guy, and DIY or home fixing is just my hobby. I am not a professional photograher, movie maker or trade man. So, please excuse me for the video clip quality.

Update: 2011-12-02
I just published another youtube clip demonstrating the rotary hammer's power. Yes, it is possible to drill into wood, but, the hole is not as clean as when drilled using proper wood bit. :


Camera: Ricoh GXR P10.

Update : 2011-12-10
Quick review: Boyai BY2.24R. Cheap China mad 24mm rotary hammer.

http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=ST&f...2051914&st=140#

Update: 2012-02-27
Change the title from Impact drill vs Rotary Hammer. (Video) to [Power Tool] Masonry/Concrete Drilling to generalized the methods to drill into concrete or masonry.

Thank you..

Reference:
Correct way to handle power tool
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oGphjIuyDg4

Cordless impact drill vs cordless rotary hammer
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SKDIggpbXqU

This post has been edited by bahathir: Feb 27 2012, 10:00 AM

How much is your HR2810 ?

Makita HR2810 cost me MYR640, but compared to other 'well known' brands with similar specs, it might be the cheapest.

The cheap impact drill cost me around less than MYR200, it still can do it's jobs, but, the performance and ease of work is more important.

You can get a cheaper and lighter class of rotary hammer, 18-24 mm, which might cost around MYR400-600 for well known brand or MYR200-300 for cap ayam brand, and still can out perform any impact drill at any price.

Bottom linr is, rotary hammer is an excellent tool for drilling into concrete, bricks and masonry.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Sep 29 2011, 10:20 PM

I know rotary is superb. Use one for sometime and it make impact drills like baby.

thats quite reasonable...

does it have a "hammer-only" aka chiseling function ?

cause bosch with 800w with 3j hammering cost abt 800 bux..

http://www.makita.com.sg/products_details....mID=60&typeID=2

from here seems like your is the same only the weight is different abt 1kg..

Sure it has. Look carefully at the mode selector in the picture or in the video clip . BTW, HR2810 is 3 modes rotary hammer (aka combinational rotary hammer) with capability to drill 28mm drill bit into concrete. If you go to hardware shop, look at how big and heavy is the 28mm drill bit, For typical DIY, 16-22mm class rotary hammer is MORE than enough. typical 24mm and larger rotary hammer might has hammer only (chisel) mode.

In my case, The chisel mode is really handy, when breaking big stones, cements, bricks and roof tiles which are buried in my garden. I need to remove these 'unwanted' material before I able to dig deep enough to plant a tree. Honestly, I was in dilemma to choose 18mm (Makita HR1830) and 28mm (Makita HR2810), because, HR1830 is smaller and lighter (1.7 kg), but the chisel mode is a big plus, eventhough it is a bit larger and heavier (3.2kg).

This post has been edited by bahathir: Sep 30 2011, 10:57 AM

thats good to know..

just curious can also share your "bits" collection for the makita ? lol

Actually, I got Makita brand 5 pieces SDS plus drill bit set (6, 6.5, 8, 10, 12 mm) FREE, when I bought the rotary hammer. It is more than enough because, I only use 6mm for most of the wall anchoring.

I also bought flat chisel and bull-point for breaking and minor demolition.

BTW, I am not a contractor, so, my tool collection is simple.

See it for yourself.



TQ

If not mistaken black and decker rotary 18mm (or was it 20mm) version have chisel mode only.

seems like a very good investment if your into DIY , handy tools are handy when they are needed

Yes, and who knows, I can do 'part time' wall fixing/anchoring job in future.. heh eh e..

IMHO, any brand rotary hammer can ease your drilling job. In my case and perfect situation, I can drill 6mm hole in 3 seconds into concrete. and if your rotary hammer can do it in about 10 seconds or less, it is also OK. Compared to 1 minute of pain and agony when using impact drill.

BTW, drilling into typical wall should be fine with impact drill, which may take about 10 to 20 seconds (based on my limited experiences), but once you hit concrete or harder material, then the it will be another story. Imagine if you need to drill 20 holes for curtain railing, where in some case, the location of it are at concrete beam. Also if you live in high rise building, for sure, the wall is a hardened concrete.

Oya, if you cannot afford to buy a decent rotary hammer, you can try to 'RENT' it from hardware store.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Sep 30 2011, 12:22 PM

yeah but not all hardware store do rental,

and price wise not that economical... unless u can rent a 1k to 2k tool ..

for a tool worth 600/700 better just buy it outright...

Another impact hammer drill vs rotary hammer comparison.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6UMY4lkcCqE

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 24 2011, 02:14 PM

hi.... u like diy?...where u from?...i also got some of power tools...

This post has been edited by yi_min82: Oct 9 2011, 11:10 AM

in before pics or it didn't happen share la

bro where did u buy this?

Ok, Here you go... I bought the rotary hammer here. Call them for availability and 'new' price.



Other accessories are from varous hardware shops.

IF you unable to get Makita HR280, Makita HR2470 also a good choice, 24mm, lighther, also has chisel/hammer only mode, and one of the very popular models around.

TQ.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 17 2011, 02:50 PM

Advice needed here please :-

I have to mount about 10 s/steel shelves
onto homogen tiled walls.

My old B&D impact hammer drill keeps burning
the tile bits, smoking when operating and takes
like 2-5 minutes to bore 1 hole. Too much of a
hassle...even my wrists ache after 3 holes!

Can any of you here offer me some solution
or advice? Many thanks.

For tiles, you can use SLOWER speed at rotary only mode. You also an try drill bit with CARBIDE tip, or try the Bosch Multi purpose drill bit. Also, try to apply grease or lubricant oil to cools down the drill bit's.

Oya,... PUSH HARDER...

Good luck.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 17 2011, 03:14 PM

Gosh your tip is appreciated.

Been using hammer mode plus hi-speed
so now I will use rotary mode, slower speed
plus oil or water to cool/lube the tile bit.

Will try this ltr today and hope it solves
my sore wrists and burnt bits! If cannot
then it's diamond bits for me.

Thanks!

Yup diamond bit should be your last options. Yeah, start slow, increase the speed until the bit getting 'better bites'. Remember push harder.

BTW, if possible try to mark the drill point with CENTER PUNCH. It help the bit to stay at one place, and at the same time breaking the smooth hard surface, which make drilling easier...


Please do report back here about your progress

Thank you.

Wow, din knw got 'rotary' drill, time to retire my old drill. Using it on concrete was a piss, the oil in the drill splatted out ..

i just use normal drill with impact button..
so if want to drill wall..i use the impact button..

---

Added on October 17, 2011, 5:13 pmu can also use smaller diameter carbide tip drill bit at first..
then change to bigger size ...i always use way..although maybe need to change 1-2 x
it makes drilling a lot more easier..

This post has been edited by gjohn: Oct 17 2011, 05:13 PM

To get the exact drill point I usually use 2" masking
tape over the area and mark the point with ballpoint
pen or marker. The tape also helps prevent the drill
from jumping and scratching the precicious surface.
Centerpunching may cause the tile to chip or form
an ugly crack if not done properly.

This post has been edited by ride00: Oct 17 2011, 06:58 PM

how much is the flat chisel and bull point cost you ?
so the total you paid is ?

i was thinking of bosch gbh2-26

as it comes with

Part no. 0 611 254 76A
Carrying case (2 605 438 098)
Auxiliary handle (2 602 025 141)
Depth stop 210 mm (1 613 001 010)
SDS-plus quick-change chuck (2 608 572 213)
Keyless chuck 13 mm (2 608 572 212)
Set of concrete drill bits (6.5, 8, 10 mm)
Pointed chisel (SP no. 2 608 690 095)

Bosch GBH2-26.. An awesome rotary hammer., good chooice. Hope you can give a review about it later.


Since I am not using flat chisel and bull point much, I bought the 'cap ayam'/no brand
1) Flat chisel (small) : MYR9
2) Bullpoint : MUR15
3) SDS+ keyless chuck (bought from China), at MYR 25, Actually the cost only MYR11
4) Another 6mm drill bit. A Carbide tipped drill bit (Bosch X5L). MYR 29

Others,
1) Small combination L Squre with spirit level. Nice to have, if you want a 'perfectly' leveled fixings. No more guessing. Bought at ACE Hardware Mines.
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Rolson-6-Mini-Comb...e/dp/B005DKJUKI

2) Center punch, for marking and make a small 'pre-hole' before drillng.

3) Leather gloves. Just nice to have a pair. Not that expensive, MYR5 and above.

4) Small towel. Keeep tools cleaned.

5) A can of grease : Put small amoun of grease at the drill bit's groove and shaft for better
performance and longer lasting.

6) Lubricant oil.. Petronas Synthium 1000. the left over. All the drill bits are cleaned and lubricated with the oil before storage.

7) Dust mask. Very useful if you have asthma .

8) Safety glasses.Try to drill ceiling/overhead without them.

9) Concrete block for PRACTICING, as you seen in the youtube clip. Since I don't drill everyday, the concrete block is good for 'lepas gian' .. Seriously, since I got the HR2810, my interest in DIY is increasing tremendously.. Oya, I got the block lying beside a street at Balakong, near a construction site.

I want to mention another power tool which is the companion for my rotary hammer.


Makita TD0101F, corded impact driver with Vanadium Chrome #2 Philips bit. The hook is made using cloth hangging wire. This tool really make screw driving very handy and quck. The picture was taken just after fixing a curtain rail in my house.


Most of the DIYers have 'work bench' but, this is my 'work ladder', a 7 feet ladder

My wishlis
1) 16 and 24 mm Zentro, 4 cutters SDS+ drill bits. I don't know why I want that big sized drill bits, but who know, it might come handy in future.
2) Goatskin gloves...I found a pair at ACE Hardware@Mines,

Hope others also can share their experiences too.
Thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 18 2011, 05:40 PM

L sq with spirit hmm you mentioned leeded fixing meaning ??

curious how does it help with leeded fixing..

hmm my wishlist is diamond tip dry coring bits lol

did you try your bullpoint on your concrete block and see how fast you can break it ? lol

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Oct 18 2011, 04:55 PM

Sorry for the typos... it should read as 'LEVELED'

Addition to my wishlist:
1) Digital Laser Range meter... Example : Bosch DLE 50 or DLE 70 or Makita LP060. The price..., wow....
2)... Reserved

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 18 2011, 05:25 PM

@bahathir not sure how can the L level, help if you have something to drill which the holes are apart big painting.. thinking chinese horse picture the long big one..

how will that help.. a laser leveler would be more appropriate lol

But, if you are installing curtain rails or hanging pciture frames with 2 or more anchors, then a leveler is very handy to make them leveled.

Yeah, the laser leveler or ranger finder are nice to have tools, but, the PRICE keep me some distance away. It just too costly for DIYer like me.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 18 2011, 05:53 PM

i've seen some china laser leveler that cost less than 100 bux.. around...

seems like

cthardware is having promo for

bosch gbh 2-26 dfr

http://cthardware.com/gbh-2-26-dfr-professional.html

seems quite worth while

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Oct 19 2011, 02:01 PM

I did few experiments drilling through 2 types of tile using hammer drill and rotary hammer.

1) Porcelain (hard) tile
I tried to drill through a tile which being used as porch flooring. Yes, this tile is VERY HARD!. . I am not successfully to drill through using grease or lubricant oil. I only managed to drill a shallow hole. I also managed break the tile in seconds when using rotary hammer's rotary+hammer mode. So, rotary only mode is the only way to drill tiles. But, Just I found a technique.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FzwpBI5ZS2U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W2CXLSjpVhU
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aQbI6sNgF2M

Ooo.. using water soaked sponge for cooling,.. neat..
Key point is to keep drill bit cool. l. If I have time, I'll try the technique this weekend, hopefully. Drill guide plate, mmm... I can use hole from the soft tile, which I made earlier.
Bottom line: Diamond drill bit is your friend.


2) Normal (soft) tiles.
It is EASY to drill through normal tiles which being used in bathroom. I used 6mm Bosch Multi purpose drill bit for hammer drill, and Bosch X5L 6mm SDS+ and Makita 12mm SDS+ drill bits, which all these drill bits are carbide tipped.
In my tests, I able use hammer drill's hammer mode without damaging the tile. The key point is, start slow and increase the speed until it gets better 'bite'. In excellent condition, I able to drill through in 4 seconds.

Last night, I drilled 4 holes at my bathroom's tiled wall, to install a soap dispenser, using only rotary hammer and normal concrete/masonry 6mm drill bit.The combination made clean holes without any damage/crack to tiles.


Thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 20 2011, 12:39 PM

Got fed up with my ancient B&D impact drill
so I went out and bought myself a Makita
rotary hammer 2740 with 3 mode operation,
came with 5 bits plus regular chuck.

Felt real solid when operated and drilling into
hard tiles was easier and faster....saved me
lotsa time!

Hammering mode may crack the tiles, I try that before.

i use a free impact drill to drill simple hole on the wall.. It's free coz I got it free when I bought a Petronas Fully Synthetic Oil long time ago.. I guess, the value also must be around rm100++, but it does its job!

Congratulation for your Makita HR2470 (yup,HR2470 .

Yes, the HR2470 does feel solid and and the weight is also not that heavy (2.6kg), and nice to hold too. My advice is, starts slowly.. (1/2 power) before pushing it to full power. In my tests/experiments, I able to drill a hole in concrete even at about 1/4 of the power from my HR2810, but it took about 45 seconds to finished the task. At 1/2 of the power, I got 7 seconds, and with full power, 3 seconds....


Yeah, as weikee said, if you are using rotary hammer to drill through tiles, don't use rotary+hammer mode, because of the higher risk of breaking the tiles.


BTW, in this topic, I regularly use the term 'tests' or 'experiments' because, home fixing DIY is just my hobby, and I like to use the tools as efficient as possible. Using tool correctly will make the tool performs better and longer lasting. Also, it may prevent from injury or unwanted accident. That's why, I am training drilling into a concrete block, to gain experiences and 'feel' how the tool performs or limits, in real life.

Thank you.

---

Added on October 20, 2011, 5:45 pmYup impact hammer drill also did its job too for typical usage:)... But the limitations did drive me away from it, and that's why I got the rotary hammer.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 20 2011, 05:45 PM

I am thinking of SKIL 1715, 550w, and cheap. Wonder if that will be a better tool to replace my old hammer drill.

how much did it cost you ? u got it from the shop that ts recommended/bought his's from ?

i like the design of it very "modern"

SKIL 1715 : 2 kg class, 20 mm rotary hammer.

Actually, I was going to buy this model, after first experience using my brother in-law's rotary hammer. The attractive price, which is less than MYR300, and I did really want to buy it immediately at Home Depot. It is light weight (2.2 kg) and IMHO very suitable for light duty DIY tasks, such as drill wall for fixing or anchoring. The hammer only/chisel is a big plus. Most of rotary hammers are designed to last... If you try to use most of rotary hammer, you can feel how robustness and solid it being built. Remember this kind of tool need to destroy/demolish concrete wall/floor into pieces without being destroyed.

After researching in Internet, and based on reviews/articles, I chose Makita brand because of quality and excellent price/performance value. I picked Makita HR2810 because of the L shaped design looks attractive.

Ref:
http://www.skil.com.sg/skil/l0/product/pro...d=20&pid=&id=52

@bahathir

want to check with you, do you know how to quantify the feel of the impact energy rating ?

----

price i stated is the lowest i could find/see

SKIL 1715 , 550 watt, Impact 1.5 J , MYR ????
Makita HR2470 , 780watt, Impact 2.7J , MYR 500
Makita HR2810 , 800watt, Impact 2.7J, MYR ???
Bosch GBH2-26 DFR , 800watt, Impact 3.0J , MYR 750

seems like 2470 gives the best bang for the bucks spent vs performance

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Oct 21 2011, 03:46 PM

You can consider Hilti too. Hitachi tool. I see many construction industries using it.

CT at TMN Megah selling Skil 1715 for RM 299.00

---

Added on October 21, 2011, 3:42 pmAnyone know where to get Dewalt? if maybe around RM 400+- can get this model D25013K will be good. hehe.

This post has been edited by weikee: Oct 21 2011, 03:42 PM

CT got sell makita ? i know they got sell bosch..

---

Added on October 21, 2011, 3:54 pmquite rare... not everywhere selling.. yeah hitachi is good but hard to find makes me feel parts also hard to get..

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Oct 21 2011, 03:54 PM

Did not see Makita, only wide range of bosch and small range of skil.

Now i just need to know how strong is 1.5J, before buying 1715.

hahaha i also want to know how does one quantify the energy rating of 1.5J to 2.7J for makita with the bosch 3J



google is not helpinggggg

SKIL 1715 : MYR289 @Home Depot Bangi.
Makita HR2810 : see page 1
Makita HR2470 : MYR499 or less.. ask the hw shop which I posted in page 2.
Bosch GBH2-26 : Yup around that figure.

Impact power, in Joule, is how much ENERGY being transferred to the drill bits for EACH beat/impact. Example if you have 2.0J per impact, and 3000 impact/minute, it means that in a minute the drill bit gets 3000/60 sx2.0J = 200J/s. In other word, event though the impact energer is lower, but the total energy in 1 seconds is might higher than 3.0j @ 1200 impact/min.

hey guys,

"ride00", is helping me to get "Makita HR2470" for about 550ish there.. maybe cheaper if there are more people interested aka bulk..

anybody interested ?

ps: if you guys want the price of 499, u can go cheras..

Where in Cheras? Thank you.

pm-ed you...

Thank you. This shop is much easier to find compare Kepong shop

anybody seen this item in KL/PJ /klang valley before ?



http://www.screwfix.com/p/armeg-sds-plus-c...isel-55mm/16606

Don't know if it work on concrete or red brick. The video show only on cement sand brick.

Maybe this is much better

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dXA_8MW2rDg

Yes, it seem to works on 'softer' cement/sand brick wall. from I read somewhere in the youtube comments .

Nice tool. Will try to look for it.

yup NICE tool to have.. but not quite nessasary lol but its good if your into little self reno..

not sure if it can cut/chisel through cement./concrete eg the layer on the wall and also red bricks.. if can then its a SUPER GOOD TOOL...

I m DIY guy. This can use for some small reno. Should be no problem with sand brick and cement. And a bit harder on red brick I guess. But not sure about the concrete.

I believe it is more important on the rotary hammer side rather the tool. If your rotary hammer have a better strong impact, it should be able brick the concrete surface. And vise versa.

Great to see this topic 'growing' steadily. I really hope this topic can be the one of source of information related to drilling.

Purchasing rotary hammer might be quite difficult or burden for some of DIYers, but, considering time, pain and hassle to drill a hole, in long term, investment in rotary hammer may be the 'wise' investment. You can help neighbors, relatives or 'gotong-royong' or even a part time fixer with it.

Oya, beside drilling wall, I also use rotary hammer as a 'dumbbell' for my arms and hands exercises. It's weight 3.2 kg or 6.6 kg with carrying case, is good for the purpose, the result is, it make the rotary hammer felt 'lighter' when using/holding it.

I really like to hear some more experiences from you all.
Thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 24 2011, 02:37 PM

Actually beside impact drill, I have many others power tool for my DIY job. Like makita chainsaw, makita circularsaw, Hitachi bench drill, bosh orbi sander, disc grinder, dremel small drill etc.

This tool is like my toy. But some don't no go where after lend to friend.

Big Boy's Toys.
Wow, that's amazing collection of power tools. Are you a professional carpenter ? , or , are you build your own house as a hobby? heh eh he .

For sure I am NOT lending my rotary hammer to others... I willing to drill for them, because it is damn easy and fun. Not to mention 'addictive' .

I have a relative who really loe DIYing. He made a 'STEEL' kitchen cabinet for his house. He even can repair and refurbish old industrial sewing machine. His level is far-far higher than mine.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 24 2011, 03:35 PM

My friend stay in Perth, he build his own house. Take about 2 years.

Yeah great to have all that skills. In today's kind of economic, house price is 'crazy'... I really wish I can have my own land, and enough knowledge/skill to build my own house.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 24 2011, 03:39 PM

You need friends, time and tools. Sure can do it.

My job is no related to construction or carpenter. I wish I can build my own house. My knowledge of construction is limited to small job laying a brick and cement.

I use this tool to fix something, install some parts, lay some wire or pipe or build some rack. DIY is 1 of my hobby. But now abit lazy liau. He....

Those sucker friend borrow my tool will take sometime to return to me. After a while, don't no this tool to who, that tool to where.

Yes, sure.... but, I can start small by building a 'reban ayam' first. . Wait, I don't have a land area for it.


Back to the topic, here is a youtube clip, briefly explaining about hammer drill and rotary hammer.



Note: The clip shows Bosch Bulldog Extreme, Bosch GBH3-28 and Makita HR2811F. HR2811F is a HR2810 with shock absorber and work light. HR2811F/FT is not available for Malaysian market, but it's OK, because, HR2810 is surely much cheaper.

Yup, my friend too in melbourne renovate and do some extension on his ownhouse by himself. Damn cheap.

After show some progressing picture to me, it is not that diffiuclt to do. Their medthod of build is easy and everthing is pretty standard the parts. All this parts can get it at bunning hardware store. Same like ACE but 20x bigger.

Yup, agreed. Here, around Balakong and Jalan Reko (Kajang), there are several 'grand' hardware shops, which have EVERYTHING to build a house.

Can tell me what name this shop? Would like to see what they have.

Sure, I'll post the hardware shops name later.

this is a good buy/"nice" to have toolset

The Bathroom Fitters Kit Max
http://www.365drills.com/pages/BFKMX.htm

if only MYR is not that "Weak"..

edit : and we complain its hard to drill tiles.. but they are using only a batt power hand drill..

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Oct 24 2011, 05:18 PM

Wondering how our local builders do the bathroom fittings.... The holes on 'soft' tiles are not smooth and sometime it's just ugly. I can drill holes better and neat than that. Yeah, they did sloppy jobs due to time constraint, in addition to working with very limited tools/resources.

yeah.. they are doing it as a business... so faster finish move nex job = more money..

maybe that the main reason i DIY.. cause of the "hand-work" of now days very very bad..

edit : got my makita HR 2470 , thanks to "ride00" for arranging the good deal appreciate it

---

Added on October 26, 2011, 10:45 pmsince sds plus bits needs some grease for the chuck

what are u guys using as lubricant/grease ?

This post has been edited by JinXXX: Oct 26 2011, 10:45 PM

have done some work with settings on rotary,
rotary+hammer the past few days with the makita
2470...real powerful compared to the old faithful
impact drill.
wanted to do some he-man hammer mode work
today but was floored by the flu bug so I will have to
wait for another coupla days to experience the power
feedback! got some exterior wall drain clearance and
waterflow outlets to smoothen....

Brought myself a 2470. Did not put it to real test. Just did some no load testing. Feel like hammering is on the light side. Maybe is because no load.

mAybee we should all get together, jinxxx, weikee &
me and inaugurate a 2470 makita handlers club...?

Could have a coupla TT sessions and HH, then go
mash up some boulders, rocks, monsoon drains
and cliff walls...WOW! WOW! WOW!

Ham it up mannnnnnnnn! Think of the possibilities.......

TT sure okie one..

hmm where to rent portable generator then can go some hill and do some demolishing work lol

i still want to buy diamond coring/drilling/bathroom set like the one i posted one

Now i need to get variable speed grinder.

Congratulation.... another rotary hammer's club member. ... Any model/brand of rotary hammer users are welcomed too. TT session? Hope we can bring along a concrete block for us to 'lepas gian' and learn proper way to use the power tool.



There is a feature/function called 'No Hammering When Idling", which make less vibrations and make the hammering mechanism long lasting. The hammering will starts when to push the drill bits to the target. Even you start hammering, the vibration of the rotary hammer is still low and comfortable.

BTW, this weekend, I drilled 9 holes into the wall, for hanging pictures and a mirror. . Actually, preparing tasks took more time than drilling, where the drilling each holes only took several seconds, but preparing and packing took more than 1 hour 30 minutes totally.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Oct 30 2011, 10:38 PM

plan to get this

http://www.bosch-pt.com.my/papocs-my/Produ...object_id=16835

seems like a versatile all in one tool.. check out some of the youtube videos...

but would like to have the corded version of it

saw that in the brochure nice feature i would say

I need to use to grind and polish concrete, most likely get the normal variable grinder.

hmm actually i think that device can also do that... not sure it can like grind.. but i know it can sand

wow, i really impressed by the Rotary Hammer mode, damn fast...

Can sand, but to sand concrete it need special material. Sand paper will not last 1 mins.

Impact drill
- cheaper option
- good for DIY for home user
- best budget for DIY

Rotary hammer
-get the job faster cause is hammering while drilling
-more expensive
- best suited for installer and professional users
- tiles , either very slow speed or use special method

I relied on Bosch product cause Makita/Maktec is cheaper but not reliable as Bosch does.

I recommend Bosch GBH 2-26DRE or else DFR model for removable chuck.

damn the makita i bought seems like the best toy i ever bought

tested it out today drilling a 12mm hole effortlessly...

chiseling out a hole using the hammer only function so easy and effortlessly.. (chiseling out a hole on red brick wall)

damn its the best tool to have.. impact drill sorry i have to abandon you already..

once you go rotary you can't go back lol

I use my makita till now white color, need to take blower to clean it. Use too many time. Another good investment is variable speed grinder. Diamond cutter + rotary make conceal cabling so easy.

After makita, I brought variable speed grinder, and dig back my old sander, Bosch spray gun. Got myself a set of polisher for marble / cement / granit.

if they can find a way to make it work quieter it would be awesome

Great to see and read some more reviews/experiences here.

Quieter? Yeah... but, it's still sound good, just like.mmm... yeah the minigun



BTW, for hole drilling, it just took less than 10 seconds, compared to more than 30 seconds of whining and screeching sound of the impact drill, and I prefer the minigun's likes sound of rotary hammer.

After finish using it, make a practice to wipe off the dust and clean it before store it. Also, put a small amount of grease at the driil/chise/bulpoint bit's grooves before inserting it to the chuck. I already have my rotary hammer for 6 months, and it is like new, even after making about 100 of holes in concrete.

Aaa.. you felt the same, that,we are not going back for the impact drill. 12mm ? It is still a small hole, compared to the H2470's full potential, handling up to 24mm masonry drill bits. In my case, most of the time, I only use 1/2 of the my rotary hammer for more controllable drilling jobs. At full power I need to add more pushing force to keep the rotary hammer from 'bouncing'.

Durability: Since most of the readers here are DIYers, and some of us have very tight budget, buying a good and cheap rotary hammer always a priority. Remember we are not making hundreds of holes EVERYDAY, , then a mid range priced rotary hammer is always a good choice. This is why I bought Makita HR2810. There are several other brands, such as Hitachi, Hilti and Dewalt which are also a good brand too. Don't forget that, rotary hammer has to be built to last. and not being destroyed while destrying/demolishing building into dust.

Last week, I used the rotary hammer + bulllpoint bit to break and remove some stones, bricks and dried cement in my lawn yard. Yeah, my lawn yard is like a waste//leftover dump site underneath the soil. I also use it to loosen up the soil to make digging much easier.

Ok, I did another experiment using roraty hammer.
How fast to drill a hole into a WOOD using rotary hammer + masonry drill bit, compared to an impact driver using auger/wood bit? Hint: Ignore the result quality.

Thank you.

This post has been edited by bahathir: Nov 15 2011, 02:05 PM