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Photography The Official Nikon Discussion thread V11, The Darth Vader troops !

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xbbshampoo
post Jul 24 2011, 02:50 PM

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QUOTE(e_k1117 @ Jul 24 2011, 01:53 PM)
Hi Guys, i using D90 and recently i found out that when i shot indoor, the cam seems like produce inconsistent WB. when outdoor it seems fine...
below is the pic. taken using the same setting with N50 1.4. however, outcome produce is diff. WB. some with partial yellowish taken with same angle.

Pls advice whats wrong with my D90......  cry.gif
thanks in advance....
*
i have the same condition like u if i am shooting in frameburst mode. every picture's white balance is different. i don't know why cry.gif
e_k1117
post Jul 24 2011, 03:23 PM

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QUOTE(xbbshampoo @ Jul 24 2011, 02:50 PM)
i have the same condition like u if i am shooting in frameburst mode. every picture's white balance is different. i don't know why  cry.gif
*
mine one shot in single mode also happen this issue la.... cry.gif icon_question.gif
lighter
post Jul 24 2011, 03:56 PM

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QUOTE(e_k1117 @ Jul 24 2011, 01:53 PM)
Hi Guys, i using D90 and recently i found out that when i shot indoor, the cam seems like produce inconsistent WB. when outdoor it seems fine...
below is the pic. taken using the same setting with N50 1.4. however, outcome produce is diff. WB. some with partial yellowish taken with same angle.
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


Pls advice whats wrong with my D90......  cry.gif
thanks in advance....
*
QUOTE(xbbshampoo @ Jul 24 2011, 02:50 PM)
i have the same condition like u if i am shooting in frameburst mode. every picture's white balance is different. i don't know why  cry.gif
*
this problem has been discussed in LYN before. I do not know how to explain in technical way. As for my understanding a normal 220/240v fluorescents are on 50/60Hz which means it's blinking 50 or 60 times a second.. Base on your pics EXIF you're shooting on 1/200s means your shutter is faster than the blinks.. In human eye we can't capture the "blinks" that fast so we will see only white light in our eye.

example below

Let's brake the 1 second to 5 which means we only see the first 10 blinks in fluorescent light

1/5 second
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->
1st blink ---> 2nd blink --> 3rd blink --> 4th blink --> 5th blink --> 6th blink --> etc
___^___________^___________^____________^
Yr 1st Shot! 2nd shot 3rd shot 4th shot

1st shot the light is white... 2nd shot the light is white.. 3rd shot the light started to turns to green and 4th shot you got most green.. because between the blink the light will turn to green...

above is just an example you might shot in between 20th --> 21st blink..

That is why SB-900 flashlight provide a green gel filter for shooting under fluorescent..

If you the green disappear try to shoot slower than 30/s.. it will have enough time to capture 25-30 blinks so the green will not that obvious..

correct me if i'm wrong..

apologize for my poor english grammar..

This post has been edited by lighter: Jul 24 2011, 05:35 PM
Agito666
post Jul 24 2011, 04:40 PM

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PLEASE SPOILER THE PICTURE DURING REPLYING THE PICTURES POST. THANKS. smile.gif
e_k1117
post Jul 24 2011, 05:01 PM

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QUOTE(lighter @ Jul 24 2011, 03:56 PM)
this problem has been discussed in LYN before. I do not know how to explain in technical way. As for my understanding a normal 220/240v fluorescents are on 50/60Hz which means it's blinking 50 or 60 times a second.. Base on your pics EXIF you're shooting on 1/200s means your shutter is faster than the blinks.. In human eye we can't capture the "blinks" that fast so we will see only white light in our eye.

example below

Let's brake the 1 second to 5 which means we only see the first 10 blinks in fluorescent light

1/5 second
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->
1st blink ---> 2nd blink --> 3rd blink --> 4th blink --> 5th blink --> 6th blink --> etc
___^___________^___________^____________^
Yr 1st Shot!      2nd shot          3rd shot          4th shot

1st shot the light is white... 2nd shot the light is white.. 3rd shot the light started to turns to green and 4th shot you got most green.. because between the blink the light will turn to green...

above is just an example you might shot in between 20th --> 21st blink..

That is why SB-900 flashlight provide a green gel filter for shooting under fluorescent..

If you the green disappear try to shoot slower than 30/s.. it will have enough time to capture 25-30 blinks so the green will not that obvious..

correct me if i'm wrong..

apologize for my poor english grammar..
*
Hi bro lighter, does it mean that my D90's ok? how i should test whether it my body prob or wat?
pls advice. thanks
celciuz
post Jul 24 2011, 05:08 PM

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QUOTE(e_k1117 @ Jul 24 2011, 05:01 PM)
Hi bro lighter, does it mean that my D90's ok? how i should test whether it my body prob or wat?
pls advice. thanks
*
It is normal, basically your DSLR is not fast enough to change the WB due to the fluorescent light flickering nature.
lighter
post Jul 24 2011, 05:35 PM

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QUOTE(e_k1117 @ Jul 24 2011, 05:01 PM)
Hi bro lighter, does it mean that my D90's ok? how i should test whether it my body prob or wat?
pls advice. thanks
*
that's not a problem.. even d3x will have the same problem..


Added on July 24, 2011, 5:37 pm
QUOTE(Agito666 @ Jul 24 2011, 04:40 PM)
PLEASE SPOILER THE PICTURE DURING REPLYING THE PICTURES POST. THANKS.  smile.gif
*
ok.. edited with spoiler.. FYI even the picture in spoiler.. it will still load first before you open.. means there will be no difference.. wink.gif

This post has been edited by lighter: Jul 24 2011, 05:37 PM
e_k1117
post Jul 24 2011, 05:38 PM

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so what is the suitable s/speed to avoid this kind of issue? 1/80? or below?
Agito666
post Jul 24 2011, 06:06 PM

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QUOTE(lighter @ Jul 24 2011, 05:35 PM)
that's not a problem.. even d3x will have the same problem..


Added on July 24, 2011, 5:37 pm

ok.. edited with spoiler.. FYI even the picture in spoiler.. it will still load first before you open.. means there will be no difference..  wink.gif
*
not really for mobile viewer, and it is saving my energy to scroll freaking long page in pathetic resolution. smile.gif
in spoiler they wont load the picture first unless you open it.
Everdying
post Jul 24 2011, 06:42 PM

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QUOTE(e_k1117 @ Jul 24 2011, 05:38 PM)
so what is the suitable s/speed to avoid this kind of issue? 1/80? or below?
*
shoot in burst mode and hope for one of them to be nice.
or use a flash.
vearn27
post Jul 24 2011, 08:40 PM

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Which mode(s) you guys usually use when shooting an event? unsure.gif

I still use Aperture Priority mode for most of my shooting. However, seniors I know recommending me to shoot with Programmed Auto mode to save time on adjusting settings and to ensure all shots are sharp.

When I'm using Programmed Auto mode, the aperture will be set at 7.1 the most. Shooting just a few shots will ended up my SB-900 overheated on i-TTL BL mode sweat.gif

How would you guys set your DSLR and flashgun when shooting an event?
celciuz
post Jul 24 2011, 09:31 PM

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QUOTE(vearn27 @ Jul 24 2011, 08:40 PM)
Which mode(s) you guys usually use when shooting an event? unsure.gif

I still use Aperture Priority mode for most of my shooting. However, seniors I know recommending me to shoot with Programmed Auto mode to save time on adjusting settings and to ensure all shots are sharp.

When I'm using Programmed Auto mode, the aperture will be set at 7.1 the most. Shooting just a few shots will ended up my SB-900 overheated on i-TTL BL mode sweat.gif

How would you guys set your DSLR and flashgun when shooting an event?
*
Manual or Aperture mode, flash? Usually TTL, TTL-BL when I shoot direct flash.
vearn27
post Jul 24 2011, 09:48 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jul 24 2011, 09:31 PM)
Manual or Aperture mode, flash? Usually TTL, TTL-BL when I shoot direct flash.
*
You have sufficient time to set your Manual settings or one exposure setting for the entire event? blink.gif

How about using the flash for fill-flash, TTL and TTL-BL as well? Did you ever face SB-900 reaching its overheat limits in your event shooting experience?

My SB-900 already get overheated after multiple exposures at f/5 ~ f/7.1 and I'm getting worry if I continuously reaching its limit will cause the unit to be faulty sweat.gif
chiahau
post Jul 24 2011, 09:59 PM

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QUOTE(vearn27 @ Jul 24 2011, 09:48 PM)
You have sufficient time to set your Manual settings or one exposure setting for the entire event? blink.gif

How about using the flash for fill-flash, TTL and TTL-BL as well? Did you ever face SB-900 reaching its overheat limits in your event shooting experience?

My SB-900 already get overheated after multiple exposures at f/5 ~ f/7.1 and I'm getting worry if I continuously reaching its limit will cause the unit to be faulty sweat.gif
*
Well, if you rajin, can set to M and slowly change.

If not, can set a A mode and just adjust the aperture.

For me, I let the Flash on TTL, let it decide itself while I manually tweak the aperture.
celciuz
post Jul 24 2011, 10:00 PM

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QUOTE(vearn27 @ Jul 24 2011, 09:48 PM)
You have sufficient time to set your Manual settings or one exposure setting for the entire event? blink.gif

How about using the flash for fill-flash, TTL and TTL-BL as well? Did you ever face SB-900 reaching its overheat limits in your event shooting experience?

My SB-900 already get overheated after multiple exposures at f/5 ~ f/7.1 and I'm getting worry if I continuously reaching its limit will cause the unit to be faulty sweat.gif
*
Nope... depends la. If the condition some parts dark some parts bright then I use aperture. else its manual.

My SB900 rarely overheat..
vearn27
post Jul 24 2011, 10:13 PM

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QUOTE(chiahau @ Jul 24 2011, 09:59 PM)
Well, if you rajin, can set to M and slowly change.

If not, can set a A mode and just adjust the aperture.

For me, I let the Flash on TTL, let it decide itself while I manually tweak the aperture.
*
It's about whether "rajin" or not, but rather "sempat tak?" in a event where movements change swiftly and required to capture the moments at best possible.

QUOTE(celciuz @ Jul 24 2011, 10:00 PM)
Nope... depends la. If the condition some parts dark some parts bright then I use aperture. else its manual.

My SB900 rarely overheat..
*
When I shoot 6~7 shots in a short period of time on group photo or quick movement of the event @ f/5 ~ f/7.1 ISO800 (inside house), my SB-900 will reach its max heat on TTL or TTL-BL sweat.gif

Well, the aperture value automatically goes to f/5 ~ f/7.1 when I use Programmed Auto mode.
celciuz
post Jul 24 2011, 10:47 PM

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QUOTE(vearn27 @ Jul 24 2011, 10:13 PM)
It's about whether "rajin" or not, but rather "sempat tak?" in a event where movements change swiftly and required to capture the moments at best possible.
When I shoot 6~7 shots in a short period of time on group photo or quick movement of the event @ f/5 ~ f/7.1 ISO800 (inside house), my SB-900 will reach its max heat on TTL or TTL-BL sweat.gif

Well, the aperture value automatically goes to f/5 ~ f/7.1 when I use Programmed Auto mode.
*
Sure.. you're talking indoor, and what was your shutter speed?
vearn27
post Jul 24 2011, 10:52 PM

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QUOTE(celciuz @ Jul 24 2011, 10:47 PM)
Sure.. you're talking indoor, and what was your shutter speed?
*
Sure as in you also reach your SB-900 overheat limit when you shoot indoor? My SS was 1/60.
-kytz-
post Jul 24 2011, 10:54 PM

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You mostly get well lit foreground, but dark backgrounds?
vearn27
post Jul 24 2011, 11:00 PM

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QUOTE(-kytz- @ Jul 24 2011, 10:54 PM)
You mostly get well lit foreground, but dark backgrounds?
*
This time I'm taking group shot inside house, therefore the background is wall doesn't has dark background unlike ballroom. A couple of blast @ f/7.1, ISO800, SS 1/60 with flash at TTL, the SB-900 overheat immediately sweat.gif

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