Increasing the ISO will make the flash require less power to lit the subject right?

Also a friend of mine who's a event photographer (mostly those corporate events) said his technique for flash is to set it at 1/4 or 1/2 of the power then just change the aperture accordingly...works best if have big aperture lens obviously. I havent tried it myself so cant really comment

Use bigger aperture, so that your flash output need not be that powerful

Well, if you are good, using M all the way is no problem.

At least, for me. Just need some tweak here and there but generally, if its an important shoot, just use A for safety.

Yeap. In fact using bigger aperture, lowering shutter speed and increasing ISO will make the flash require less power.

Your friend's technique is indeed correct. I have met a senior that he taught me on how to use Manual setting for flash instead of relying on TTL. Setting the flash either at 1/2, 1/4 or 1/8 depending on the environment lighting, then adjust the ISO accordingly to each shot. In anyway, bigger aperture do help in lowering the flash power but we couldn't go way too low for group shooting where we need to get everyone in focus.

Again, we couldn't go too low for group shooting, isn't?

Then I would be honest enough to say I'm not there by any chance

I would prefer to focus on the event and movement than changing my M settings for each shot especially in an environment where you did not get even lighting.

If you are already using f/2.8 lens and set at a wide angle of say 17 or 18mm, you can take a group shot of 6 people or so side by side and stand about 7 feet away from them. That gives you a total DoF of about 6 feet (between 5.1 feet to 11.1 feet in front of you, subjects in that zone would be in focus). So you don't need to worry about DoF at wide open.

If you're taking full length portraits of the wedding couple in portrait mode, you would be about 17 feet away from them if you are at 55mm on focal length. At f/2.8, your DoF is about 3.3 feet in total (between 15.5 feet to 18.8 feet in front of you, subjects in that zone would be in focus). Still a lot of DoF to get your subjects sharp in focus at the tele end.

The 17-55 is excellent wide open and using it wide open saves a lot of SB 900 juice. Your photos will turn out better because the flash would compliment the ambient lighting and would not be the only source of light like when you shoot using f/7.1.

Why not switch to 1/30 instead of the default 1/60 when you use flash? You get extra 1 stop of flash power.

Yes.

That would be using flash as fill flash.

Yup.

Like I suggested, you can also stick to manual exposure and leave flash at TTL to fill in as needed.

This post has been edited by jchue73: Jul 24 2011, 11:50 PM

Just revisited DOF Master, shooting approximately 8 ft from the subject will give me approximately 9.78 ft of DOF which is enough to cover what I'm shooting yesterday where maximum there was 20 of them to fit 17mm (25.5 effective) focal length. Hmm... I shouldn't be afraid to step up my aperture value ._.

I'm worried shooting at 1/30 will cause blurry image although equipped with flash. Furthermore, this is the first time I officially shot using the new lens 17-55 and without VR.

If I'm stepping up my aperture value, I shouldn't need to be worry on SB-900 overheat if I'm using TTL mode

In fact, I actually have a couple of shots using Aperture Priority at f/2.8 before I forgotten that I have no switch to Programmed Auto which is at f/7.1. The earlier seem looks better than the latter

Glad that somebody appreciates the technicalities and bothers to check how much DoF you get.

Do some test shots. Try and purposely shake while shooting at 1/30 with flash. See the outcome. If you're still afraid, then stick with 1/60 lor...

Of course it does.

Using flash can help to freeze motion; Using flash, you can even handheld shooting portrait at 200mm (350mm on DX) at 1/30 and still get sharp image; However if the movement is "fast enough", you will get shadows or trails (more obvious when you zoom in); Usually portraiture or group photo, it should be alright.

Technicalities still important anyhow. I'm an IT guy myself, I do understand how small fraction of specification mistake could overrun the whole system

It's not until few days ago I took my time to flip again every pages of my D7000 manual only to notice I missed out some important function (I knew I missed them earlier but yet able to spare time to look into it )

I checked my group photos which I shot at f/2.8 using flash @ 1/60. In total 3 of them, one is slightly blurred probably due to my wrong focus or handshake.

Noted on that. Will set my Flash Shutter Speed to 1/30 instead of keeping it at 1/60

same as me.. but because most of the time too lazy to change2 then Aperture priority lah~

too technical hahaha but very good explaination

It's not complicated. Just punch in the numbers and the results will be automatically calculated. If you do not know what the numbers mean, there is a diagram there to illustrate how much of DoF you will get.

Besides, after spending so much, you owe yourself to learn and appreciate the lens more.

hi guys, anyone uses sigma lens? if the lens is brought in by the local distributor "Audio & Photo Distributor (FE) Sdn. Bhd." would there be this company chop on the warranty card? i'm sure some of you uses sigma lenses here.. thanks

Guys I'm getting the D5100 kit tomorrow, what is the appropriate price to sell the 18-55 kit lens at garage sales?

if don't want the kit lens why bother paying for it at the first place?

Cause it is a lucky draw present. I'm collecting it tomorrow. I already have a 35mm 1.8 so getting rid of the kit lens.

what was your old body then? XD

Hi All Sifus,

I'm looking for telephoto zoom lens but not so sure which are better. I have two lenses in my consideration so appreciate if all sifu could give opinion which is a better choice especially in terms of IQ.

Tamron AF 70-300mm Di VC USD
Nikon AFS 55-300mm VR f3.5-5.6

Btw what are the differences btwn these 2 lenses?
Which one worth buying? Or there are other option which are better?
Sharp image is quite crutial for me and I need lens with built in motor.

TQ

++ I'm using D7000 with kit lens 18-105mm currently.

This post has been edited by ashland: Jul 26 2011, 11:00 AM

there would be an extra card from the distributor, apart from the sigma warranty card.

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Added on July 26, 2011, 12:16 pmif below RM2k, i would pick nikon 70-300 VR.
70-300 in general should have better IQ on D7000 cameras, as its actually a FX lens, but probably not by much.
55-300 has slower focusing speeds than 70-300.

but if ur on a tight budget, i guess 55-300 is good enough.
never tried the tamron, tho i think its also more expensive than the nikon 70-300?

This post has been edited by Everdying: Jul 26 2011, 12:16 PM

thanks for the explanation. luckily i didn't buy it zzzzz.. the shop owner kept reassuring me it's the local disti set... despite the price which is a lot cheaper than what other shops are offering..

Heard the tamron 70-300mm VC is a good sharp lens, try reading some reviews first