Currently, I'm shooting most are events where people will be keep on moving (talking, gesturing, walking, etc.). One senior advised me to use Manual Flash Mode to conserve batteries. Setting at 1/4 or 1/8 depending on the scene and then adjust the power of the flash using ISO shooting in Programmed Mode. I find myself often underexpose the photos probably because I still get used to i-TTL. I have 8 rechargeable batteries anyway

What I'm doing now is setting the flash at i-TTL mode, even spread and setting the Flash Sync Speed at 1/250s (Auto FP) if I'm outdoor and 1/250s if I'm indoor. Usually in bright area will use i-TTL Fill Flash mode.

Anyone been doing the same or any tips on enhancing my flashgun utilization for better photos?

Regarding the general rules of flash from the link you given:

APERTURE CONTROLS FLASH EXPOSURE
SHUTTER SPEED CONTROLS AMBIENT EXPOSURE

How could I combine these two rules on shooting with Aperture Priority mode?

I don't think you can do that in Aperture Priority but Manual mode.

What's that senior told you make sense, although I won't dare to go that route yet. Unless I know my equipment inside out. In any event, motions change every second and so does the lighting.

Since you got 8 batts, why don't you grab an SD9?

Anyway, underexpose is better than over

Hmm... but I sort of getting the idea of the rules you mentioned. Previously, I was shooting wedding dinner in a ballroom where the lighting is very poor. Then when I'm shooting the photo of group of people around a table, the background goes black as if there's no light. In a way, it can be the highlight of the participants around the table in the photo, but actually to light up the environment which is the background in my case, I'll need to step down my shutter speed. Here's where the rules of APERTURE CONTROLS FLASH EXPOSURE and SHUTTER SPEED CONTROLS AMBIENT EXPOSURE step-in

Still can't get myself used to that Manual setting method of flash utilization, relying on i-TTL to do the magic

SD9? No need lar... carrying separate boxes of 4 batteries each enough liao

Andy214 has been mentioned this a lot of times in the forum, an underexpose photo will generates more noise compared with overexposed photos.

Yes, that is one of those moments where you need slower shutter speed. I also do that, if I want to include more ambient light, I'd switched to Manual and adjust the SS accordingly.

SD9 can refresh faster ma

I've read those posts before. Ideally you must get the exposure right each time. Under = noise (controllable, as long as not that much). Over = lose details (read blown highlights). Personally, I'd rather choose the former

This post has been edited by opfish: Jul 22 2011, 11:39 PM

I shoot most on Aperture Priority and only sometime on Programmed Mode. In Aperture Priority, when I wanted to step down the SS will be lowering the ISO. Vice versa when I wanted to step up the shutter speed. However, when shooting in Aperture Priority with flashgun will go slowest 1/60 only, am I right?

Still yet to be confident on using Manual mode. Anyway, did you utilize the Auto-ISO setting like setting your highest ISO and lowest SS?

The Eneelop I'm having currently sufficient of refreshing at my pace. Need not extravaganza speed. In anyway, the SB-900 heats up very fast too after blazing a few high powered shoot within a short period

imo.
on camera, better to use TTL.
btw, sb900 default should be TTL BL right...which tries to balance exposure with the background.
else thats where spot metering comes in.

for manual, i would most probably only use it when 2 or more flashes are involved...so can control the ratio of light from each flash.
eg. for highkey shots.

btw, why do u set Auto FP when its also at 1/250s same as the indoor setting? theres no difference in exposure right?

Hmm... you also been using TTL mode when shooting on camera? When shooting for events, I usually use TTL BL and matrix metering. In what kind of situation where I should switch in between spot metering, center-weighed or matrix?

Yet to have chance to play with multiple flashes.

Isn't 1/250s (Auto FP) is to be used when flash sync speed need to go beyond 1/250s for using fill flash in bright scene?

That's why go Manual when the camera sees differently from what we want. Aperture Priority = we control the aperture, camera controls SS. Shutter Priority = we control shutter, camera controls aperture. 1/60 or not, I'm not too sure but I think it depends on your lens selection. I'm sure you can go slower than that if shooting wide open on a f1.4.

I'm sure you choose Programmed mode when you want to let the camera do everything and give you some guidelines on the settings rite? Same goes with Manual. Shoot in AP first (since you are mostly on that) then switch to Manual. Use the same setting and play with the SS.

I'm also using Eneloop, and I totally agree on the SB900's overheating issue.

i would just stick with center weighted.
i hardly use flash anyway, but why not just stick with TTL? afterall for events etc, u often dont get a 2nd chance to get the exposure right.

and guess i misunderstood the Auto FP.
thought u were just going to stick it at 1/250s outdoors also

Shooting wide at f/1.4 isn't will make the SS go much faster? Still need to meddle on the flash setting when shooting with flash.

Nah... actually the senior advised me to use Programmed Auto therefore I try it out. He said that events photography not necessary need special effect shots but good coverage and good angles with the details will do. Only need to control the ISO sensitivity and the flash power if using Manual flash mode.

I usually shoot with Aperture Priority combined with Auto-ISO settings when I'm getting busy with the movement of the event. Depending on the scene, either set the max ISO at 800 or 1600 with the SS at 1/60 slowest. Yeap, I used the method you mentioned. Shoot with AP and then duplicate the same settings on Manual and adjust it slightly according to likeliness.

Center-weighed... so far I have been sticking with Matrix instead, unless portrait I'll go center-weighed and less using spot metering.

Yeah, what I'm doing now is using TTL mode and then swing the flash head accordingly to get the bounce to lit my subject

Well... sometime I forgot to adjust the Flash Sync setting therefore few of my photos will be overblown if I didn't review them properly after shooting

When using flash by default it will try to lock at 1/60. You can make it slower under menu. Look for "Flash Shutter Speed" it only effects P mode and A mode.

I always go iTTL for events. If you find that the iTTL seems too much under you and always +ev on the flash unit. That would increase the over all output of the flash power. But for events with limited positions I would go manual flash. Just to practice

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Added on July 23, 2011, 1:40 amWell said, I own a 17-55 as well. 3 years ... loving it every time I use it. My ultimate workhorse. I have friends who went the cheaper route, lets jst say, not many of them (the lens) function properly by 3rd year. Then again, I had to makan roti for one year to pay of the credit card debt! It all boils down to how bad you kena poison hehe


Shot with SP90

This post has been edited by gerald7: Jul 23 2011, 01:41 AM

^ I only owned 35mm , 50mm


Thanks

i look at the price between 680 and 681 , not much diff lol

shashinki sold 680b RM199 , 681 RM198 (as reference) , 681 able to load more weight and higher than 680b how come cheaper than 680b?

How much you bought at outside?

This post has been edited by SSY22: Jul 23 2011, 08:58 AM

Good stuff, I have a friend who goes all primes on his D60. Manual focus most of his lens, but can create magnificent images. respect.

i going to buy nikon D5100........ will slowly explore the function in there

first time get dlsr camera .

To be frank, I can't recall the price... About shashinki's price if not mistaken.

I picked 680B because it is shorter when the monopod is kept. 681B is longer when kept.

i got a 680 as well, bought it for basically rm150 on sale.
i would guess if u can go engtong can get much cheaper than shashinki also.

First time I see a four legged subject photographed by you.

Using manual power at 1/8 or /14 indeed saves power but I use it when I want fill light only. That would mean that under low light, I would probably use f/2.8 at a little higher ISO for main exposure and the flash will only lift shadows on the subject. The flash function in this case would not be used as the main source of light.

If the OP shot in RAW, recovery would be better if the picture was overexposed. You can still get back overblown details and not bring up undesired noise if you were in underexposed in the first place. I think with LR and shooting JPGs, this is also preferred method.

Don't know if you have tried this... I use manual exposure on the camera body and let the flash be in TTL-BL or TTL if you're in spot metering.

First, I meter the dimly lit background by using spot meter on the camera in aperture or shutter priority (whichever suites you). Even easier now since you have a f/2.8 lens. Note what aperture and shutter values. I notice that I get about 1/30s, f/2.8 @ISO1600 for a typically dim wedding dinner environment. Perhaps you can tone down and put a little underexposure in the background by half a stop or so and arrive at ISO 1000 perhaps or stay at ISO 1600 and stop down aperture to f/3.2 or f/3.5. Fire away and the flash in TTL mode should take care bring the picture (including background) up to correct exposure.

In a wide angle setting, your main subjects should all be in focus at f/2.8 with the exception of the background. But then again, that should be ok since you only want to expose the background to see what's going without wanting the background to be tact sharp.

This one also 4 legs ma..


Dog at work by CY Pixels, on Flickr

Why not; As I said, there're pro wedding photographers using it, I think kytz also mention one pro photographer using it. Anyway, it's not that bad until it's not usable, just that you need to learn how to utilize your tools; Better tools, surely helps, save time, trouble, hassle and the disappointment (e.g. getting out of focus shots due to inaccuracy, not able to capture the moment).

As for 16-85 and 18-70, as I reply to isepunye posting, for people looking for f/2.8 equivalent, they would not have look here. Anyway, nobody is saying the 3rd party is superior, just an option/alternative.


I think the debate is in "proper discussion" manner, it good for information sharing and clearing any misunderstanding. In non-malaysian forum, it's very normal especially long replies. Honestly, I start internet from those forums, so I'm already use to it; just try not to make it into personal issue which tends to happen in forums. I would see this is positive and constructive.

Anyway, actually, for 3rd party, if you read reviews around, there're few 3rd party that were highly recommended.
1. Sigma 50mm f/1.4
2. Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 (You can read most reviews will give high recommendation on this)
3. Tamron SP90 f/2.8 (Tough, the price against the Nikkor, is MUCH LESS difference compared to 17-50 Tamron VS 17-55 Nikkor)
The Tamron in this case, extends during focusing, it's MUCH SLOWER; To be honest, it's a much worst recommendation comparing Tamron 17-50mm f/2.8 and Nikkor 17-55mm f/2.8;
* and some others

So, you see, recommending the 3rd party is VERY COMMON; If you have to know, go read others and see how others debate over it. Honestly, I just give a small suggestion/alternative based on the "SCENARIO" provided and what the person is use for, in other forums, you'll read even more "strong" debate.

Anyway, I've made it clear, and I'm just "simply" suggesting a 3rd party, it's not a crime. If it makes anyone unhappy, I'm truly sorry for that. I did not say Nikkor version is not good or anything, just stating my personal opinion on the price and altervatives, it's purely personal opinion, anyone may disagree, but hope anyone don't get "unpleasant" over it.

^Andy , i think is heartpatrick using tamron 17-50.

@Celciuz and everdying , thanks you =) .