keazyc is right. dx lens will be no crop for dx body. it will be crop when fx lens on dx body..

im actually lazy to explain i detail.. when fx lens attach to dx body the image view will be same as dx lens. but with the fx lens on dx body its actually cropped..as you guyz said, dx is cheaper bcoz its less glass and why fx lens is more expensive? bcoz it using more glass.. so more glass on dx body, the dx body only use part of the glass to capture image. that is what i meant.. if still dont understand i will draw u guyz a picture when im free..

This post has been edited by lighter: Jul 19 2011, 12:08 PM

taikor.. dont confuse my point ler.. i bever mention dx lens on fx body.. that is vignetting i understand..


i will draw you guyz a picture later.. using phone to online very hard to type..

this is what i'm trying to explain.. look at the picture below...

Picture 1 is my so call "crop" not the "sensor crop"



hope you guyz understand what i'm trying to show..

I personally will not buy 3rd party lens anymore.. Have a bad experience on 3rd party lens.. bad build quality, front/back focusing issue, slow focusing, difficult to focus & etc.. I owned tamron 18-270 & 17-55 and sold it off after few months.. Now i would rather save more money and stick back to orignal.. I would say for 3rd party brand Tokina is the best.. but again, TTL will not be accurate in wide open..

this problem has been discussed in LYN before. I do not know how to explain in technical way. As for my understanding a normal 220/240v fluorescents are on 50/60Hz which means it's blinking 50 or 60 times a second.. Base on your pics EXIF you're shooting on 1/200s means your shutter is faster than the blinks.. In human eye we can't capture the "blinks" that fast so we will see only white light in our eye.

example below

Let's brake the 1 second to 5 which means we only see the first 10 blinks in fluorescent light

1/5 second
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------->
1st blink ---> 2nd blink --> 3rd blink --> 4th blink --> 5th blink --> 6th blink --> etc
___^___________^___________^____________^
Yr 1st Shot! 2nd shot 3rd shot 4th shot

1st shot the light is white... 2nd shot the light is white.. 3rd shot the light started to turns to green and 4th shot you got most green.. because between the blink the light will turn to green...

above is just an example you might shot in between 20th --> 21st blink..

That is why SB-900 flashlight provide a green gel filter for shooting under fluorescent..

If you the green disappear try to shoot slower than 30/s.. it will have enough time to capture 25-30 blinks so the green will not that obvious..

correct me if i'm wrong..

apologize for my poor english grammar..

This post has been edited by lighter: Jul 24 2011, 05:35 PM

that's not a problem.. even d3x will have the same problem..

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Added on July 24, 2011, 5:37 pmok.. edited with spoiler.. FYI even the picture in spoiler.. it will still load first before you open.. means there will be no difference..

This post has been edited by lighter: Jul 24 2011, 05:37 PM

Letting go my Nikon 17-55mm f/2.8G AF-S anyone interested?

i'm selling off all my nikon gadget.. please check my siggy..