to be very honest, i'm still not really sure if the whitish coulding is caused by algae which normally happens with distilled water. i've seen brown or green type of algae growths before, which is pretty easily identifiable. this type seems to happen with some types of coolant additives.

one thing i know is that if ur rad and blocks are not cleaned properly before putting them into the loop u'll get other sorts of deposits into the loop. make sure those are cleaned properly before use.

the radiators and waterblocks of high end watercooling parts consists of brass(which is copper+zink) and copper, thus they cannot rust. only ferrous metals will rust, ie steel.

be careful with aluminium mixing with copper. thats one thing you should avoid, even if its anodized. the apogee GTX might be an exception coz its nickel/cobalt plated... whether that is ok or not is debatable.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: May 31 2007, 01:50 AM

yeah the cleaning part is dam important.... make sure your parts are not polluted with other material then ur loop shd be fine with algae and stuff as its a close loop its hard for things to get in after u set it up

Wondering whether here is the right place for me to ask...
Can I know that the Apogee GT water block can fit into ASUS Striker Extreme mobo? Hope someone could answer me, thanks.

pic of simple kit n add on of mcw30 + wcw60 + 120 rad


pic of dual mcp350 pump splitted with 2 'T' joins

ok, i wanna wc my rig n i wanna start simple 1st... ie, all swiftech here... micro resevior, d5(mcp655)/mcp350 pump, 240mm rad, apogee gt

if i got it up n running trouble free, then might upgrade with another 120mm rad + mcw30 (nb block) + wcw60 (gpu)

i wanna know if i got the routing of the piping (tubing) correct... will the 240mm + 120mm rad be sufficient???

is it better i put the both 240mm n 120mm rad in serial (120mm rite after 240mm rad like in pic) or locate the 120mm after the mcw30 (nb)??? i thought if i locate after the nb, the gpu might get lower temp water as the rad might be able so shed off some heat... will it cause problem like restriction or flow???

my proc (50 idle load near 70) n nb (at 1.95vmch) is kinda hot... my gpu is idle at near 60 too...

i ther any1 selling the mcp350 pump???

will it be better if i run dual mcp350 pumps??? 1 for proc n nb, another for gpu...

i wan the wc setup to be silent... heard the d5 make some high pitch noise which is irritating... is it???

1/2" or 3/8" tubing better???

i know i got maybe too much prob here but i'd spent tons of time to figure out the wc setup, it juz dat i have no idea how should i loop them n wat should i buy... my case can't fit a 360mm (120.3) rad, so the best bet to fit everything inside my casing is 240mm + 120mm rad... i hope the pictures r clear enuf...



or this might be a better looping route???

This post has been edited by HaHaNoCluE: Jun 3 2007, 04:41 PM

New waterblock from Swiftech for G80 graphic cards.
Built specially for nVidia 8800GTS, 8800GTX & 8800Ultra

Swiftech Stealth

Product Link:
http://www.swiftech.com/products/stealth.asp


Introduction
Named after the famous Stealth fighter bomber because of its angular shapes and black livery, Swiftech' Stealth is a VGA water-block designed exclusively for nVidia's high-end GeForce(tm) 8 series graphics cards. At the time of publication, the Stealth is compatible with the 8800 GTS, GTX and Ultra models.

The ultimate GeForce(tm) cooling performance:
Using the same core cooling technology as the Apogee(tm) GT and GTX CPU water-blocks which are recognized as the best performing water-blocks on the market, the Stealth unique design approach focuses cooling where it is most needed: at the GPU level; with its extended wings covering the memory modules and NVIO chip, the massive aluminum housing also maintains the lowest possible temperature of these surface mount components; this allows in effect for the most advanced overclocking techniques which are necessary to take core and memory frequencies well beyond factory specifications.

Performance and flow data
Thanks to the Apogee GT cold plate technology, the Stealth offers ultimate thermal performance with moderately high flow restriction as shown below:



One example of a Stealth SLI setup, also including MCW30 cooling on both Northbridge and Southdridge chipsets. In this example, the water-blocks are installed in series.


This example of stealth SLI setup shows the water blocks installed in parallel using regular 3/8" T's. This type of arrangement is ideal to keep the highest possible flow rate in the CPU water-block, while maintaining sufficient flow rate for the GPU's. In effect the Stealth water-block does not require high flow rates to provide extreme cooling to the GPU.

Specifications
Internal structure: the CNC machined C110 copper base plate is at the heart of Stealth water-block cooling efficiency. Designed and optimized using Computational Fluid Dynamics, it benefits from the same Diamond Pin Matrix technology used in the Award Winning GT and GTX CPU water-blocks. In fact, we use the Apogee GT/GTX base plates with the Stealth, thus guaranteeing the absolute best performance on the market.


The Stealth utilizes the same Diamond Pin Matrix
cold plate technology as the Apogee(tm) GT & GTX

The housing is CNC machined out of billet aluminum and receives two plating treatments for a lifetime protection against corrosion: electroless nickel plating (MIL-C-26074E grade B) and Zinc Cobalt plating (ASTM B 840-99 grade 6). A black die is applied after plating strictly for cosmetic appeal.
The port threads are 1/4" BSPP standard.
The housing is supported by a 5 year limited(*) warranty.


The Stealth is shipped with 1/4" BSPP to 1/2" barb chrome fittings, and is also fully compatible with Swiftech's or other 1/4" BSPP to 3/8" barb fittings.
The spring loaded screws shipped with the Stealth are the same as those used in nVidia's stock aircooled solutions.

I just realised... the Stealth is a lot more restrictive than the MCW60 and even the FuZion GFX.
So far the MCW60 is still the least restrictive graphics block out there.

funny swiftech decided to use a different measurement for pressure drop in the Stealth's graphs...

at 1.5GPM flow rate, pressure drop is 5.5 mH2O (@4 C) = 7.8 PSI

for comparison. pressure drop at 1.5 GPM flow rate and all 1/2" fittings:
Swiftech Stealth = 7.8 PSI
Swiftech MCW60 = 0.8 PSI
Swiftech Storm Rev 2 = 3.45 PSI
Swiftech Apogee = 0.65 PSI
AquaXtreme MP-05 SP LE = 4.25 PSI
D-TEK FuZion GFX = 3.9 PSI
D-TEK FuZion CPU = 1.5 PSI

comparing with Apogee GT/GTX since it has the same base plate. Stealth's flow is diagonal like the GTX. pressure drop all at 1.5 GPM flow rate:
Swiftech Apogee GT 3/8" fittings = 1.2 mH2O
Swiftech Apogee GTX 3/8" fittings = 1.4 mH2O
Swiftech Stealth 1/2" fittings = 5.5 mH2O

Just when you thought the MP-05 and Storm is restrictive... think again... the numbers are shocking.
as you can see... the Stealth is ridiculously restrictive... even the Storm is half as restrictive....
the Stealth which has the same diagonal flow as the GTX... Stealth (1/2" fittings) is already 4 times more restrictive than the GTX (3/8" fittings).

I cant help to think what are Swiftech and D-TEK thinking with their latest graphics blocks?

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 4 2007, 06:59 PM

wah my block dam restrictive man >.<
just wanna know is there a lot of temp diff on the mcp655 using low speed and high speed??? and does putting a fan blowing on the pump helps to drop the temp???

IMHO the mcp655 isnt hot to the touch... blowing a fan at it probably would do nothing.
temperature difference between max and min speed... check out our Apogee GT review i posted earlier. the graphs tell the story: http://www.pcmoddingmy.com/e107_plugins/co...p?content.408.6
I tested at max and minimum pump speed. on low restriction blocks like the apogee series, there was a 3 deg difference on our test bench. difference will be less if the heat load is less. on high restriction blocks like the MP-05 and the Storm, flow rates make a big difference. mix and max, there was a 6 deg difference.

WTA - Is a Nirox P2800 pump good? Some people swear by it while others tend to avoid it. Or are there any other pumps worth recommending within 100-200 budget?

Well I don't know if anyone "swears by it", but its is popular simply because it is cheap and it works. It is actually extremely similar to the Hydor Seltz L20 pump (it might be made by the same ppl or maybe not, knowing china peeps for making copies of other products.)
Nevertheless, quite a few ppl use it here for budget water cooling. It has reasonable amount of max head, approx 1.8-2 m (box and pump sticker stays different figures LOL), which is good enough for not too restrictive loops.
The downside, is lower reliability than well known pumps like the Laing D5. over time it can make some clicking sounds, but not loud in my experience. And then, it makes louder noises... a sign that it's probably deteriorating (hearing from user experiences). Typical lifespan probably 1-2 years? That you need to ask the users on this board as I don't use this pump a whole lot.

i'm experimenting adding clorox ( not clorox bleach ) to fight against stained tubing. 1 drop over 1 Litre. B4, i oso tried adding a few drop of dettol (3 drop actually), but in 2 week timeframe, but, when i flushed my loop, blue-ish color came out. hopefully, dis time, clorox will work.

hey i have a question before i install my wc kit this weekend, i am planning to install a backplate with my block and i found out that the screw thickness is not fit, is that ok if i use a thinner screw instead of the original one as the backplate uses slightly thinner screw....

Nirox pumps huh....when new their fine, as they age, they start raise a racket and get pretty noisey, but as a budget pump they're pretty good. But once I changed to a Laing D5, I realised how much better things were with a good pump. The Laing is utterly silent....even a new nirox is much noisier.

^now this is someone who has used nirox more than I do. Mine has had only a total of less than 4 months of use i guess.
Personally, when new it has a minor clicking sound. Other than that its pretty silent, as long as the pump's vibration is dampened well (as with any pump). The clicking sound is actually caused by the impeller slipping on the rotor shaft (its designed to be like that to be like that to assist starting), common with a lot of AC pumps. As time went, mine started clicking more and thats only when it started to get noticeable. But u've used the pump longer than I did, so u'd probably know what happened next haha.

This post has been edited by MetalZone: Jun 8 2007, 07:33 PM

Interesting Review of water blocks, a bit dated...more for nostalgic reasons...lol

http://sgoverclockers.com/modules.php?name...owcontent&id=61

This post has been edited by BurgerRI: Jun 10 2007, 10:36 PM

anyone tried the bowed apogee gt on s939 amd system before? how does it perform? any info on that?

any link for 1st timer installation of wc kit???

http://www.xtremesystems.org/forums/showthread.php?t=54331

Call me for emergency helpline

uhuuuuu... i juz got the wc kit... yeah, but i haven't got myself the tubing yet... n time... hmmm, need some time to do some study n finding the necessay tools... hehe, tq tq..

NICE SELLER, N OSO NICE FREN... if v happen to have holiday to meet in kl, bring me to see some of ur frens drift huh..!

*next project, gotta get myself a new mountain bike...

[off topic]Thank you. I'm in ipoh most of the time now though. Go check out D1 GP Malaysia then, I know a couple of the competitors there personally.[/off topic]