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 Discussion about watercooling and the results, Version 2

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sup3rfly
post Jun 4 2006, 03:51 AM

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hi...i m quite interested with the water cooling setup now... i have some question that i need to ask...
1. how is the maintenance of a water cooling setup???
2. if there is maintenance that need to be done... how long to do it??? 6 months once ??

thanks in advance smile.gif
sup3rfly
post Apr 28 2007, 06:01 AM

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Hi here is my setup give some comment plz sweat.gif
CPU Block: DTek Fuzion / MP05
Rad: Swiftech MCR220 Quiet Power Series Dual 120 mm
Res: Swiftech Micro Res
Pump: Laing D5

current rig is on my sig... what do u guys think about this build??? plz advice...thx in advance smile.gif
question: which block shd i get... according to sifu metalzone, the fuzion has bigger footprint and its meant to use on a multi die proc and mp05 shd be the king for single die proc...fuzion is more future proof as all proc are goin to quadcore liao tongue.gif
plz give comment on that also...

This post has been edited by sup3rfly: Apr 28 2007, 06:01 AM
sup3rfly
post Apr 28 2007, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(hiphop @ Apr 28 2007, 11:12 PM)
i will go for Fuzion. cool2.gif
*
nvm i have gotten a second hand mp05..... see how it perform 1st tongue.gif
sup3rfly
post May 7 2007, 04:50 PM

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almost there spray ur barb to chrome color...the spray can get from Ace HW too... anyway i need those chrome barb too cry.gif
sup3rfly
post May 14 2007, 05:20 PM

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just wonder if i can use the EK barb for my micro res and my MCR220 rad? just wan to confirm...i have check it shd be ok...but just wanna confirm from the procs ...and 1 more thing....if i m using 7/16 tubing... can this barb fits in??if cant i die lo cry.gif
sup3rfly
post May 14 2007, 10:02 PM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ May 14 2007, 08:12 PM)
the MCR220 rad depends actually. there's some with 1/4" thread and some with 3/8" thread. i assumed you checked and ur's is the 1/4" thread version, so that means can.
yes 7/16" ID can fit over 1/2" barbs. its a little tighter. you might have to dip the ends on hot water to soften it before putting it on if you find it too tight, especially the D5 barbs (coz the wider lips on it).
*
well to be frank i m not quite sure about my rad lo..its a second hand ones.... BUDGETTING sad.gif
anyway that i can measure aR???
sup3rfly
post May 18 2007, 04:51 PM

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QUOTE(Seijyuro @ May 18 2007, 04:41 PM)
ello, i'm a noob in watercooling. i've been using coolermaster aquagate mini for almost 2 years, and i have juz recently upgraded to gigabyte 3d galaxy 2. so does anyone here knows where to customize or make ur own waterblock?
*
i suggest u to buy as there is a lot of material that is not available in malaysia.... if u made one it will cose more than a ready made ones
sup3rfly
post May 18 2007, 10:57 PM

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QUOTE(HaHaNoCluE @ May 18 2007, 08:06 PM)
those china made pure copper cpu block ok a??? only cost rm70 in china (RMB150)... my bro in law saw 1 ther... still planning to try my water tank wc.. my room is in the middle of renovation... hahaha... i've changed the tank size to 200 gallon... i'll juz run tap water... the big water pump confirm functioning... n it got control for adjustment...
*
my say is dun save money on that.... later the block pecah then ur whole rig kena.... and better dun use tap water later got algae then u know sweat.gif

sup3rfly
post May 29 2007, 11:30 PM

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if beverage tubing really doesnt give the cloudy problem and its crystal i am kinda interested...provided the price is not too high smile.gif
oh ya...btw anyone know what is thos cloudy thingy actually???
sup3rfly
post May 30 2007, 12:04 AM

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QUOTE(sHawTY @ May 29 2007, 11:42 PM)
What about UV CCFL? blink.gif
I've heard that those UV lights used in the aquarium will slow down the alga growth, does UV CCFL that we use in our casing work at the same way as the UV Light used in the aquarium? blink.gif
*
nop cant...those that we use are Class 1....u need to use Class 2...FYI class 2 will harm our body....
sup3rfly
post May 31 2007, 12:02 PM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ May 31 2007, 01:44 AM)
to be very honest, i'm still not really sure if the whitish coulding is caused by algae which normally happens with distilled water. i've seen brown or green type of algae growths before, which is pretty easily identifiable. this type seems to happen with some types of coolant additives.

one thing i know is that if ur rad and blocks are not cleaned properly before putting them into the loop u'll get other sorts of deposits into the loop. make sure those are cleaned properly before use.
the radiators and waterblocks of high end watercooling parts consists of brass(which is copper+zink) and copper, thus they cannot rust. only ferrous metals will rust, ie steel.

be careful with aluminium mixing with copper. thats one thing you should avoid, even if its anodized. the apogee GTX might be an exception coz its nickel/cobalt plated... whether that is ok or not is debatable.
*
yeah the cleaning part is dam important.... make sure your parts are not polluted with other material then ur loop shd be fine with algae and stuff as its a close loop its hard for things to get in after u set it up
sup3rfly
post Jun 4 2007, 08:25 PM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ Jun 4 2007, 06:53 PM)
I just realised... the Stealth is a lot more restrictive than the MCW60 and even the FuZion GFX.
So far the MCW60 is still the least restrictive graphics block out there.

funny swiftech decided to use a different measurement for pressure drop in the Stealth's graphs...

at 1.5GPM flow rate, pressure drop is 5.5 mH2O (@4 C) = 7.8 PSI  shocking.gif

for comparison. pressure drop at 1.5 GPM flow rate and all 1/2" fittings:
Swiftech Stealth = 7.8 PSI
Swiftech MCW60 = 0.8 PSI
Swiftech Storm Rev 2 = 3.45 PSI
Swiftech Apogee = 0.65 PSI
AquaXtreme MP-05 SP LE = 4.25 PSI
D-TEK FuZion GFX = 3.9 PSI
D-TEK FuZion CPU = 1.5 PSI

comparing with Apogee GT/GTX since it has the same base plate. Stealth's flow is diagonal like the GTX. pressure drop all at 1.5 GPM flow rate:
Swiftech Apogee GT 3/8" fittings = 1.2 mH2O
Swiftech Apogee GTX 3/8" fittings = 1.4 mH2O
Swiftech Stealth 1/2" fittings = 5.5 mH2O

Just when you thought the MP-05 and Storm is restrictive... think again... the numbers are shocking.
as you can see... the Stealth is ridiculously restrictive... even the Storm is half as restrictive....
the Stealth which has the same diagonal flow as the GTX... Stealth (1/2" fittings) is already 4 times more restrictive than the GTX (3/8" fittings).

I cant help to think what are Swiftech and D-TEK thinking with their latest graphics blocks?
*
wah my block dam restrictive man >.<
just wanna know is there a lot of temp diff on the mcp655 using low speed and high speed??? and does putting a fan blowing on the pump helps to drop the temp???
sup3rfly
post Jun 8 2007, 02:07 PM

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hey i have a question before i install my wc kit this weekend, i am planning to install a backplate with my block and i found out that the screw thickness is not fit, is that ok if i use a thinner screw instead of the original one as the backplate uses slightly thinner screw....
sup3rfly
post Jun 25 2007, 09:49 AM

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QUOTE(MetalZone @ Jun 22 2007, 04:43 PM)
Wow regret all your life... sounds like a serious life decision. laugh.gif

But well, its true. it's either high end heatsink or fork out more for a good WC. For low budget, a high end heatsink doesn't actually need maintenance and it's much easier to install. Remember, don't just simply go for WC just because it is bling, or just because it is "Water Cooling".
*
yeah get water cooling because u need it to cool down ur hot processor... it really does help....
i do agree with sifu MTZ...if u wanan get low end WC better get an high end air cooling.... smile.gif
maintaining the wc loop is kinda pain in the ass for me as i m still new with watercooling icon_rolleyes.gif
sup3rfly
post Jun 25 2007, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(UPM_Parasite @ Jun 25 2007, 04:09 PM)
SO CAN WE GET WATER COOLING IN RM300 BAGET????  hmm.gif  hmm.gif
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rm300 u better use it for air cooling bro smile.gif
my second hand set already cost me rm1k.... btw the pump and tubing is new smile.gif
sup3rfly
post Aug 13 2007, 05:32 PM

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u may wanna try my way.....

vinegar > boiled water > vinegar > boiled water > vinegar > boiled water

vinegar: 30 minutes
boiled water: until the whole rad gets cold

...i used filtered water to clean my stuffs

best way to drain water out of the loop is move the loop around
1. empty the water in the res
2. then move ur block or rad to fill the res with water
3. empty it... until the whole loop is empty ^^

1 more thing dun put the whole rad into the vinegar u might kill it smile.gif

This post has been edited by sup3rfly: Aug 13 2007, 05:33 PM
sup3rfly
post Aug 13 2007, 05:52 PM

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corrosion happens my fren....

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Corrosion

this is the reason smile.gif

This post has been edited by sup3rfly: Aug 13 2007, 05:55 PM
sup3rfly
post Aug 17 2007, 08:16 PM

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QUOTE(HaHaNoCluE @ Aug 17 2007, 08:06 PM)
i've drain my loop n let them run in tap water... then drain again n refill wif distilled water n run it for an hour... then drain again n refill wif distilled water again... ok ah??? very hard to drain my loop o... maybe next week drain it again (it took me 1 hour to drain that pile of things)
*
well draining the water really take time....just find 1 fine sunday and do it tongue.gif
eh ur house got thouse filtered water?? like those diamond water and stuffs???? use the water to replace the tap water i think it will be better smile.gif

 

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