Wanna ask u guys... i new, really new to wc. I'm using bigwater thinking to add another resevoir to the loop. I know the pump is not "strong" enough, so gonna change to aquarium pump ( nirox mebe ). Any suggestion on where on the loop to add the nirox and resevoir, assuming i'll still be using the bigwater pump.

* I just finished testing my wc yesterday, giving it DIY casing/enclosure, mounting all the items inside except the blocks. I do see reduction is temp tho.

WC inside cpu casing :
CPU
vcore : 1.8v
idle : 44c
full load : 53c

VGA
vcore : 1.7v
idle : 36c
full load : 41c

WC inside DIY enclosure :
CPU
vcore : 1.8v
idle : 40c
full load : 45c

VGA
vcore : 1.7v
idle : 35c
full load : 40c

Yes, i bought the Aquarius II VGA Waterblock. Watercooled my Ti4200.

Heheheh..... planning to upgrade my gfx soon.... bcoz the aqua is universal....

wan to ask the sifu's n guru's. wat the diff wif powerhead n waterpump biasa? can use powerhead in closed loop ah?

sifoo n guru's.... wanna ask something..... food colouring can be use in wc? mine is zalman's waterblock with aquarius II oso ( i think both is copper ). Need to add coolant or plain battery water can do?

Hi guys... i need some feedback. i'm going for pelt/TEC cooling with my wc. But, i'm not going to cool down my proc direcly. Instead, i'm, going to cool down my res. What do you guys think? well my res is DIY Glade .

some of battery water contained manganese. donno if this is chemical or not. And i oso noticed that, w/ battery water contained manganese, the "kecairan" [sorry, forgot already what they wrote there ] is 1 n without manganese, it's 2. The brand i'm using is KOYA, made in JB. They didnt list the manganese as its mixes.

Havent use it yet lah king.... no time changing my wc setup. bz playing w/ my rams. heheheheh

erkkk.... 37 on idle? must be something wrong lah. even my current wc cpu+vga waterblock combined still 38c full load.

Running sp2004 n Real Time HDR together still didnt increase much my temp



This post has been edited by satanhead2003: Jun 16 2006, 12:03 AM

Its...
Pump --> Cpu Waterblock (zalman 3/8 tubing) ---> Vga Waterblock (Aquarius II [here it kills my flow because of the 1/4] )---> Rad ---> DIY Res

n for the PWM... i'm using a self-mod 12cm JMC fans to cool down my rams. the PWM is situated under / beside the ram slots, it automatically cool it down.



i'm on 3/8 tube size. thinking to switch to 1/2 after I mod my nirox.

This post has been edited by satanhead2003: Jun 16 2006, 08:44 AM

Guys i need some guide/info here.

Before :

Zalman WB2 waterblock, Eheim pump, BIP II Rad, 3/8 tubing
Idle : 27c - 29c
Load : 42 - 44c

Now :
Whitewater LE waterblock, Nirox 2800, BIP II Rad, 1/2 tubing
Idle : 30c - 34c
Load : 40c - 43c

Why when using the zalman + eheim, my temp seems lower than usig whitewater + nirox? As in review, whitewater is one of the "challenger" of Storm. But, in my setup, its different story.

Ahahhaha.... dats mean..... kaput la, bro. I already odered MAG 7 pump but it havent arrived yet ( http://www.bestnest.com/bestnest/RTProduct.asp?SKU=PON-02527 ). Will it be enogh? N if it's still not enough, can dual MAG 7 enough? How will the setup be? i mean, how am i gonna connect those?

pump -> whitewater->punp->rad ->T-Line

or

pump -> T-Line ->Pump->whitewater->rad ->T-Line

I got spare nirox lying around. but dont hv any idea abt those setup should be.

Abt the eheim, its 1046.

I've modded my Aquarius II waterblock top by replacing the acrylic top and epoxied 3/8 fitting on it [ it seems that, the acrylic top is restricting the flow, not the copper block ]. Now, my 79GT idle is 44c and load is 47c.

I need help here, I have 1 cooltrek dp120, 1 BIP II, Whitewater Waterblock,Danner MAG7 pump and 1/2 tubing. My prob is, the pump using 68w power. What all sifoo will recommend?



or



Pump is rated at 700GPH ( 2600 LPH ) n HMax is :



This post has been edited by satanhead2003: Jul 25 2006, 01:45 PM

How about the 68w generated heat by the pump? shouldn't it have any rise in water temp?

sorry if this been asked b4, but my clearflex + tygon tubing seems to got "faded" day by day. seems like algae or something "melekat" at the tubing wall. Any way to prevent this? and how do i clean them without harming my other parts?
i've been browsing every oc'ers forums; mainly xtremesystems since got so many leet n gurus there; n they come to conclusion, none of the water additive out there can prevent this frm happening; dunno bout Petras PT Nuke.

if u dis-assemble ur wc oledi, clean it with bleach ( clorox ) but dont run them in ur loop.the most 15s ( but 5s-8s is enough ), all the things tanggal, rinse w/ tap water. b4 u put it in ur loop, clean again w/ battery/distilled water. at least, that i do.

dunno if w/ coolant. but battery water.... i guarantee no conductivity, diff brand.... diff ingridient. how i know? once, my tubing not tighten at wblock, when i notice there's a "pool" of water on the top of my gfx ( right on top of the core).still, that time, i play FEAR... wipe it w/ dry cloth.... then.... sambung main fear...

I use the cl-w0038. but modded lah. change the top to 3mm acrylic, change the fitting to 3/8, widen the U channel.here's the result

idle = 39c-40c
load = max 45c

and its oc'ed 7900GT (450/660 ) to ( 560/860 )

talking about rm90(the waterblock) + rm2.50(acylic) + rm6 (the 2pc L shape fitting).

This post has been edited by satanhead2003: Feb 20 2007, 09:48 AM

y go for GTX bro? everyone in xtremesystems saying that MCR-320 / 220 -QP is the next best thing after thermochill. for the price of GTX's, better buy Thermochill lah.

wahh....i'm talking abt Swiftech MCR320/220 -QP lah, not thermochill. but yeah, if single 120, better GTX lah, since MCR barb is fixed at 3/8. Single GTX is priced about USD71 (random online shop).