I'm using maxis tires on front and kruizer on rear....
Btw I dun think is tires fault la just change my front tires.....u can help me diagnose?

tyres/tires plays a big role on cars roughness and comfortableness, it maybe brand new but the tyres pattern, compound affects the ride. like what yngwie said, the other old, wear out parts also affects. maybe its time to consider autofoam the chassis. sorry i cant help diagnose leh, as i also had brake caliper pin problem if u have read through my post, its solved and reduced the level of roughness too.

agreed.. for me after changing into super bro steering bush.. all the vibrates & roughness of the ride suddenly felt obviously.. b4 all those things doesn't bother me.. now like i really want to change all those worn out parts.. demm~

Haihhh Mao Mao Mao... when u did care all those stuff.... even the 1st time i met u and u drive ur car with KO plug for long tim edi without noticing it hahahahaha I wonder u can tahan driving for 80km/h for that long period lols

i wana change the old wear out parts as never change for 8 yrs ad!!which 1 should start from??i heard dog bone, lower arm and link..which 1 to change 1st...and the estimated price for each parts?

Hi wajarian...

Today I drive my waja campro 2007 1.6 auto for first day...

What i can say... really satisfied with the car... performance and handling i can say worth it all the money i have to pay...

But only this abs signal and handbrake signal... at the morning is everything is okay... but after the first drive... i turn off the engine and turn on back... this two signal will always on...

Any DIY to help me... or any opinion to overcome this issue...



Hope it will not cost so much... because i baru work for 3 month... want to buy sport rim also have to hold first... hahhaa...

hahahaha.. that time my car not i use everyday.. when use oso drive slow2 coz riding with old people.. that KO plug oso actually just change for a week according to my brother before ok.. hahahaha.. that time can see in ur's & alif's face.. like "heh?"
now learn alot edi.. thx to u & elton everytime meet sure poison new stuffs~ demm.. i think after flash & driving in my house area road really sux made me care.. hahaahah

Elton car everytime u meet him is pack with threebond and certain stuff venom hahaha.... but for me i just love to rattle around only lols

elton ar my car after 3bond, primer and change spark plug still will mati engine sometimes...beside flashing or patching no other way ar...@@

I think ABS light up because of the sensor at brake? maybe dirty?
For handbrake i think will be the handbrake sensor as well.

brewoe_1988@
as i suggested earlier, you may need to pool your budget and change em at once to cut on alignment cost.
start with the front parts replacement.
here is a rough estimation ;
sachs / monroe absorber around 250 bucks for both
new lower arm with bushes around 200 for both front (good quality)
absorber link around 100 for both (good quality)
absorber mounting (if your old ones is already worn out) around 100 bucks for both front
labour cost roughfly around 100 bucks.
alignment / balancing maybe cost around 68 or so.

total damage(estimate) = around 850 or so with hidden cost on rubber cover / protector.
but after a rear suspension / arb bushes change, you car will feel like new!
in my case, it was even better than a new car

lets see if this fella will contradict himself again : http://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry44181061

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Added on July 28, 2011, 5:44 pmhows the car after primer? Mati engne the one u'll have to reflash

This post has been edited by ThunderGod_Cid: Jul 28 2011, 05:44 PM

Bro just change front? Rear no need ar?where u get the price?any workshop to recommend?

new lower arm with bushes around 200 for both front (good quality)

200 each or 200 for two pieces? last time i heard original around 200-300, how to change?

estimate price according to market price sometime early of this year.
if you want to change front and rear altogether, it will cost around 2k or so.
and you will only saved about 38 bucks or so on re-alignment cost.

here is an estimate breakdown for the rear ;
2x2 = 4pcs suspension link( short and long) - 100 bucks x2 = 200
rear absorber x rubber protector - 180x2 = 360
rear suspension arm - 1xx bucks x 2 = 2xx
rear arb linkage x 2 - 65x2 = 130

labour around 150 bucks or so.

and since you're working on suspension changes, why not change the arb bushes
in a go? check with elton for a good arb pu bushes for more 'responsive handling feel.

i don't know which area you're staying, how could i recommend a workshop?

200 bucks is an estimate price for both side. its not an original proton but will last for another 5 years or so.
good thing you get rid of the noisy sound when driving over those thick yellow lines.
i don't suggest changing the bushes alone on old lower arm. those worn out arm bearing can't be swapped.
new proton ori cost in the region of 2xx bucks for a pair. not sure if there is a different between abs and non-abs thou.

guys.. besides anti roll bars, what other types of bars help reduce body roll? does the lower 4 point brace (front/lower) helps?

also i'm thinking of installing front and rear anti roll bars from ultraracing.. front 20mm and rear 16mm.. has anyone tried this? i kinda hate my waja handling right now

This post has been edited by reef_d: Jul 29 2011, 09:27 AM

i think the bar reduce body flexing? (correct me of im wrong sifus). reduce body roll also on suspension setup i think..

Yes it reduce the body flex but for normal driving i suggest forget it because you are not going for rally or GRA. If the car had less body flex, it require the absorber and tyres to work harder because all the energy is diverted.... if someone use over stiffen abs.... then the tyre had to do all the job.

To be frank, just replace to a better matching tyres and live with it.... spend the rest others money to do others stuff first. The priority is not there however if you drive like a mad cow all the time and take corner like F1, than that is different story....

not really drive like mad ler but on my neo i do take corners at 110kmh (not really fast i know) but on my waja feels like want to terbalik! max i could go was 90kmh.. was thinking of getting those ARBs, 50profile tyres with stiff walls on my 16"rims + subaru semi bucket seats(my gut and butt is all over the place when cornering on stock waja seats ).. all in the quest to lessen the body roll on my waja..
plan to do all this before raya balik kampung trip..

maybe i could install 1 ARB first..

This post has been edited by reef_d: Jul 29 2011, 09:49 AM

front ori arb thickness is just 19mm. IMO, not much different and worth to change to the 20mm. rear straight go for 19mm.
well u need stiffer abs to reduce body roll.
when u upgrade the rear arb, when u corner u will experience more over steer is u r pushing through corners.
front 4 points helps to reduce body roll a little bit and more precise handling.

This post has been edited by tjroy: Jul 29 2011, 11:24 AM