mao2@
how about gasket change and head parts toughening?

at least, replaced the head screw with a tougher one.
we will never knew what happened during constant 0.6 boosting

none was comfortable enough for daily use. i was on tein superstreet before but now back to apm performax abs and sports spring setup which is a not as stiff as the softest setting on adjustable abs. so far, the best adjustable i've ever use was the hwl with h/l & s/h.
if you plan to use 18", you may need the hardest setting to avoid tire hitting the inner fender.

soft setting with soft spring(lower rate) on adjustable will never works. all you get is a boat like ride
even more bouncing with 'dive' like feel on uneven surface . try and tested.
adjustable has to go with harder spring. customizing the right spring rate is the key. even a customize pajero spring pair with satria gti abs
works fine on waja

poison.... poison

main power window switch console should cost around 100 for waja(with light). you can diy it. just use a test pen or small screw driver to pull up the console (start from right side) and unhook the connector. that's it.
btw, chances of the console spoil in one go is quite rare. it should malfunction one after one .
check the fuse underneath the steering column. sometimes it could be caused by a burn fuse.

neat and clean engine bay. how often you 'blow' 'em?

This post has been edited by yngwie: Feb 1 2011, 08:19 PM

nice and poisonous answer
my engine bay with rojak engine boosting higher still need an additional 'blow-off the dust' from time to time

ok. one mini breather and one non-shiny oct for me.

bullseye s256 with dsm wastegate

ThunderGod_Cid@
i'd rather had 'em install at ea. carvox is fine but tenon is 2way.

the rear suspension bushes was of 2 pc bush. you should consider changing your arb bushes to pu type for more solid feel too.

it's for each rear absorber. one bottom and one on top.
here are the full list of bushes that i upgraded to pu last time around;
front lower arm = x4
front arb = x2
rear lower arm = x2
rear upper arm = x2
rear lateral arm = x2 ??
rear arb link and end link = x4??
rear trailing arm = x2
others are steering rack mount bush = x2 could not remember the exact amount of bushes but it cost me around 1.3k with labour.


btw, guys, i am currently troubleshooting a friend's waja due to some problem.
anyone change the water pump and air-con fan motor before? how much is the cost of both?
need to quote him.

of course the pu bushes is much softer than a hardened conventional bush but its a little noisy compare to new rubber bush.
good thing, you will never need another bush change coz' pu bushes is made to last the car's lifespan!
i changed to pu bushes all round(as listed in early post) at 1.3k a few years back. that time still on 4g18p engine. after changing, feel the different instantly.
car feel more solid and nimble in tight corner. even more solid(but noisier) than friend's 4 months old waja cps after few days of exchanging ride.
for lower arm, i don't suggest changing the bushes alone coz the bearing might worn out after prolonged use.
also, from my experience, for engine mounting, stay away from mmc or racing type, they are cheap and fun in the short time but noise filtering and reliability could be an issue. the original proton engine mounting still last longer and has better engine / road noise filtering.

btw, only drawback with pu was the road noise, which made me fork out another 1k for all round diy dual layer of sound proofing.
now riding on 4g93t with mivec md head, no longer bother about the road noise. the turbo spooling sound beat 'em all.
conclusion; you guys should at least.... BOT! and keep the exterior modification to minimal to avoid jpj / traffic attention.
nothing beat the fun of driving a 'silent killer'.

new or old waja? worn out tire could be the possibility. other than that, check the wheel bearing and also the lower arm bushes. if there is an excessive engine
noise intrusion into the cabin, could be engine mounting problem.
tires tend to become noisy as they the tread wear out.
replacing the worn out tire / bushes / mounting and at least a dual layer all round soundproofing material will definitely improved the nvh rating but it does
come at a price.

1. 5k front and 3k rear spring rate.
2. adjustable(even with soft hard) usually had a stiffer absorber rating compare to conventional ones. if the absorber response rate is slower than the spring, it will give a bouncy ride. also, you may get a 'jumpy' ride when going over speed bump.
if the spring rate is too hard thus causing it to 'control' the absorber response when going over uneven road, ride will be too stiff and this may weakend the lower arm in the long run.
we can't have handling and comfort at the same time but we could get in between by choosing the right set of absorber,a correct tire choice(sidewall factor) and also, monitoring the pressure depending on the environment.

check my previous post for tips / advice.
btw, problem with cabin engine noise intrusion was down to the worn out engine mounting. which will cost you around in the region of 360 - 400 bucks for replacement including labour cost. if you noticed more sound comes from underbody, it was due to the worn out lower arm bush and other bushes.
make sure to get the original proton engine mounting for reliability.
about the soundproofing, single layer is a waste of money, you need at least 2 layer or better with 3 layer on all door, floor and roof area which cost more than 1k for proper job. cheaper with diy.
the dashboard sound was an effect on the worn out mounting coupled with the hardened absorber. in some case, sound may disappear once the above repair done. if you can't get a decent pricing, pm me your contact number and i will forward 'em to my mechanic in kl.
basic tips: if you car have any problem, get 'em repair as soon as possible coz' another problem may arise anytime, especially for an aged car.

you can join the TT(teh tarik / discussion session) among waja owner here for better understanding.
btw, guys, i could not come due to work commitment in east malaysia.

p/s: steven, your car is super fast
added another POISON

This post has been edited by yngwie: Feb 19 2011, 10:40 AM

lolz. but yours is manual. mine seldom on tiptronic mode. usually in auto mode and driven by my sister
btw, are you using twin plate ogura or exedy single hyper?

elton, any news about the oct and mini filter?

twin plate is too hard on your left foot. no compatible exedy single plate hyper? else, stock with mivec flywheel

am currently away in kota kinabalu settin up some business until end of march. possible to keep the item until am back in kl?
else, i can send someone to cod with you sooner.
thanks.

i would not categorize it as a good price. disc already skimmed once. good thing the seller is being honest. a skimmed disc will only last for a little over a year or so.
replacement disc will cost another 430 bucks.

for auto tranny, every 15 - 18k km is fine. depending on the usage. or once you noticed there is a high pitch sound during braking.
make sure to choose the correct pads.

about 189km/h or so on the gps. speedometer in the region of 203km/h. of 5.6k rpm.
195/55/r15. do not do it on stock waja. upgrade to better suspension and suitable tyres. drive safely.

and get the original k&n air filter. micro mesh ss filter is almost hopeless in filtering. it may allow more air (better response)but so does the dust.
look under the light and you will see the ss mesh holes sometimes can be as big as those ball point head.

elton @
any news on the oct and mini filter? rather than waiting, perhaps, i can ask my friend to come and pick it up from you.

p/s: sorry for keep you waiting.

This post has been edited by yngwie: Mar 5 2011, 05:09 PM

andychan@
it's the air-con water that sip thorough the driver side cabin. there is a leakage somewhere inside the air-cond coil area compartment.
get your mechanic to fix it.