damn.. im getting too old for this suspension >.<

DIY ar..?

@mao2

or anyone infact. have you guys try 17" on stock suspension. how is it? rub ar? mayb wan to go back stock... old man d...

hahaha.. ur butt or back old?? if stock abs with stock spring sure no rub.. but the car is high like boat & u'll lose the handling.. i suggest u go for kayaba or performax abs + R3.. quite comfort.. i'm on kayaba abs front & proride rear abs + R3 spring set.. no complains yet.. ask most of the people ride with said my car is good.. just that recently the stupid proride rear abs failing suspect faulty edi so rub like hell with the 9jj width rims.. hahaha..~

right now i got very good handling, layan corner like nobody business on weekend. but i feel less n less desire to do that d now days

r3 + std abs.. sounds good. how much diff in height after swap to r3?

like u seen mine that nite.. same like urs.. just that mine have been using long time edi so the height is lower abit.. so the measurement of r3 springs with standard abs is 1 1/2 finger front & 2 finger rear.. btw i think better go for tougher brands of standard abs.. coz if use the stock abs from proton can only tahan around 8 month or so if u like to pek corner.. btw.. how's hard is hard ur gab? spring rate?

mao2@]
adrian from garage sales used to sell it. check out mudah site. there is one guy from negeri sembilan selling it at 45 bucks. some selling at 65 bucks. easy to diy.

DaBestOne@
yes. most of the soundproofing stuff in my waja was diy. services, engine mounting change and even the engine transplant was part diy. that time, the waja is still my full time ride. now my waja is being driven by my sister back in kl.

WhitE LighteR@
were you on 205/45/17 or 215/40/17? stock suspension is fine if you're not carrying heavy load but at times, it may rub during bumpy road.
r3 spring lower the car by close to 40mm. about 3 finger or 2 fat finger in layman term... jk

mao2@
r3 sport spring need to be pair with sport absorber / short strokes abs to get the handling and reliability. if it doesn't match, you could only choose between handling and reliability. in your case, you've got a quite comfy ride but shorter life of standard abs.
stay away from newer apm performax sport spring. it tend to get softer in shorter time.
so far, the best combination for me is apm performax + custom made spring for rear and monroe sensatrac with
fresh stock spring. the reason am using apm performax for rear is the reliability. tested and proven.
btw, you can always go to halfcut and ask them for a pajero spring

standard for adjustable lor
6kg front / 4kg rear

i saw steven one that day... 8kg front / 4kg rear

im on 215/45/17

i drive solo most of the time... sometimes carry a passenger.. rear is empty 99% of the time. tht is one thing i always no like abt performance spring. you cant pair with standard abs. less than 1 year already ko the abs. short stroke abs are hard to find. and even if you found one, its almost always f***ing expensive.

btw, what is wrong wit the stock rear spring and abs? y u change to apm + custom abs?

due to different working method / rate, pairing a stock abs with sport spring is not advisable. and vice versa.
stock rear spring and stock abs(apm -gas) does not last long. the longest i could use them is one year.
but with apm performax(gas & oil combination) abs and custom spring, it last more than 2.5 years, even with frequent abuse.
btw, after done with engine transplant a few years back, am using apm performax abs all round and custom front and rear spring. with soft abs and stock spring, the heavier gsrt engine caused a bad nose dive during
hard braking.

so u use apm performax gas n oil combination? which is which? front gas rear oil or the other way around? how about d price nowdays? and wat custom spring do u advise me to use if i'm more to comfort? (juz asking for future reference)

while still on 4g18p, monroe sensatrac with stock spring on front and apm performax and custom made spring for rear. front apm performax cost around 165 or so while rear around 120(last year pricing).
after engine transplant was done, am on apm performax all round with custom spring.
from my experience, if you like to attack corners, adjustable setup is fine but they wear out your lower arm in
shorter time.
it's all about understanding the car's behaviour and finding the best solution.

Anyone know if PDT tuning will wipe out the reflashed rom? my 4G18 tuning seems to be unstable and I can't stand it.

The rpm will go down to around 600 when air con kick in, then it goes back up to 900 then slowly 800. and when push into D gear, it'll goes down as long as 600 and whenever push to N will rise back to 800. It just keep fluctuating.

Also, Anyone could share how to retune ourself in SAS mode?

This post has been edited by Andy0625: Jun 18 2011, 11:25 PM

Jerry,

I tot u changing ur ride ???

Mao,

Dun waste time to use tat looks bad knuckle, just service ur caliber, clean or skim the disc and pasang and use lar....

C whether u can get Pajero IO servo to fit in or not.

this is happening to me recently as well.like for the past 1 week. on N, the engine like rev-ing dam actively..feel like the car can move anytime..

hahaha.. jerry still sticking to his car.. btw jerry if wanna let go ur gab i like to test the stiffness.. if i can accept then u know lah~

@kampoon
hehehe.. send those sets to workshop edi to service and skim.. also the shop owner said the bearing seems in good condition.. just that the knuckle plate is abit wacked.. he said he can fix kawtim.. so if ok just pasang the knucle..

Mao x2,
Gud to hear that lor.....let me know the results after u pasang with ori servo......I might want to get one also...

---

Added on June 19, 2011, 10:56 amI guess both of you can PM elton...he can settle it for u and do 3 bond together......

This post has been edited by kampoon: Jun 19 2011, 10:56 AM

2) Turn OFF engine, make sure car key is in OFF position
- turn the air bleed screw all the way clockwise until it locks, not tight - just lock
3) Start the engine & let it run for a minute or so
- engine should open the idle servo to compensate for the lack of air
- engine should automatically rev to >1000RPM then steadily drop to 600/700RPM
4) Engine still running after 1 minute (take your time, let the engine figure out what to do)
- turn air bleed screw 1 full turn anti-clockwise
- engine should again rev >1000RPM then drop to 700RPM or so
5) Let it run a minute or so again
- now ON air-con
- engine should react immediately to the extra load
- ON & OFF air-con a couple of times between intervals of 30 second or so
6) You may turn the air bleed anti-clockwise more, if air-con idle too low
- range is usually 1 - 2.5 turns anti-clockwise

copy paste from : http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/728246

it works.

can ask jerry how its feel with stock servo since he is currently using steve's 2 pot with stock servo.. btw if ur want to get 1 to better do it now as most of the halfcut are selling them at high price since no more stock coming in.. fto set is also a good choice..~

just buy DDpro disc sets RM2800 for 16" disc

Do you remember the spring rate for all your custom spring?

Nope. Wait i become abit more richer....

haha... yea sure. see when you free then we can test each others ride lo. You still got your ori spring?

I going to try this also...

you still have to press the same amount because its still the same servo, but because the bite is now more, the amount of time you brake is lesser now.

what is DDpro disc?