Common Kelvin White Balance Settings : 2500K - very strong orange tungsten light 2800K - strong orange tungsten light 3200K - yellowish tungsten light 4500K M6 - flourescent light (most flourescent tubes are green even though our eyes don't see it) 5500K - flash 6500K - daylight (or daylight-balanced flourescent light) 9900K - strong blue stage lighting or evening light
Xenon lighting is rare but that should be between 7000-9000K.
Whenever you enter a new situation that has different WB, just set your Kelvin WB again and test with one shot. You
should be able to do this with practice.
With the Sony A300 and A350, you can use Live View and see the effect of changing Kelvin WB... live!
M = Magenta G = Green 2500K = Blue 9900K = Amber
Take a picture. Supposing the picture is very Green, you need to add the opposite which is Magenta. If the picture is
too Blue you need to go closer to Amber. So if the picture is very blue-green-ish, you will need to go closer to 9900K
M9.
To prevent the built-in flash from appearing in pictures when in wireless flash mode, you can use any of these
methods, or a combination of them:
- use a darker aperture (e.g. F11) - use a lower ISO (e.g. ISO100) - use a shutter speed faster than your flash sync speed so that High Speed Sync is activated (e.g. 1/320th of a
second) - use a piece of exposed, developed negative film in front of your pop-up flash
Imageshack was unable to recover A200, A300, A350 & A700 userbars and as a result, new userbars were uploaded.. Those using the userbar, please update your URL..
Alpha street pricelist ***updated 30th April 2010***
Camera --------- Sony A230 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM14xx Sony A330 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM18xx Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM20xx Sony A380 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM24xx Sony A700 + 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM33xx Sony A550 body only = RM21xx Sony A500 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT SAM = RM31xx Sony A550 + 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM = RM24xx Sony A550 + 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM40xx Sony A850 body only = RM61xx Sony A900 body only = RM73xx (Studio Zaloon)
The following suffixes identify what lens comes with the camera body:
G = Sony 18-200mm F3.5-6.3 DT K = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT L = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM P = Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT Q = Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM W = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 75-300mm F4.5-5.6 X = Sony 18-70mm F3.5-5.6 DT + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT Y = Sony 18-55mm F3.5-5.6 DT SAM + Sony 55-200mm F4-5.6 DT (2) SAM Z = Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA
Battery Grip -------------- Sony VG-B30AM for A200/A300/A350 = RM6xx Sony VG-C70AM battery grip for A700 = RM9xx Sony VG-C90AM for A900 = RM9xx
Flash ------ Sony HVL-F20AM = RM4xx Sony HVL-F42AM = RM7xx Sony HVL-F58AM = RM11xx
New APS-C / DT Crop Lenses -------------------------------
Sony 11-18mm F4.5-5.6 DT = RM20xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-80mm F3.5-4.5 DT ZA = RM25xx Sony 16-105mm F3.5-5.6 DT = RM16xx Sony 18-250mm F3.5-6.3 DT = RM16xx Sony 30mm F2.8 DT SAM Macro = RM7xx (NEW) Sony 50mm F1.8 DT SAM = RM5xx Sigma 50-150mm F2.8 EX DC HSM Macro = RM30xx
New Full-Frame Lenses ---------------------------
Sony 16mm F2.8 Diagonal Fisheye = RM25xx Sony 20mm F2.8 = RM19xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 16-35mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Vario-Sonnar T* 24-70mm F2.8 SSM ZA = RM54xx Sony 24-105mm F3.5-4.5 = RM18xx Sony 28mm F2.8 = RM8xx Sony 28-75mm F2.8 SAM = RM26xx (NEW) Sony 35mm F1.4G = RM45xx Sony 50mm F1.4 = RM10xx Sony 50mm F2.8 Macro = RM14xx Tamron 70-200mm F2.8 Macro = RM30xx Sigma 70-200mm F2.8 EX DG HSM Macro = RM38xx Sony 70-200mm F2.8G SSM = RM54xx Sony 70-300mm F4.5-5.6G SSM = RM25xx Sony 70-400mm F4-5.6G SSM = RM54xx Sony Carl Zeiss Planar T* 85mm F1.4 ZA = RM50xx Sony 100mm F2.8 Macro = RM23xx Sony Carl Zeiss Sonnar T* 135mm F1.8 ZA = RM48xx Sony 135mm F2.8/T4.5 Smooth Transition Focus = RM36xx Sony 500mm F8.0 AF Reflex = RM25xx Sony 300mm F2.8G SSM = RM20xxx Sony 1.4x Teleconverter = RM15xx Sony 2.0x Teleconverter = RM15xx
IQ : image quality FF : full frame APS-C : crop sensor, 1.5x or 1.6x OOF : out of focus PP : post processing PS : photoshop (a PP standard) (A)WB : (auto) white balance AF : auto focus DoF : depth of field FoV : field of view EV : exposure value NR : noise reduction CA - Chromatic Aberration (Green/Purple Fringing) Coma - Comatic Aberration UV - Ultra Violet
Have tried my flash at home last night. I notice that :
1) shuttle speed is fix at 1/125 when plug in external flash. Unable to manually change the shuttle speed. Is this normal?
2) Will external flash follow body setting ( fill-flash , slow etc.. ) ?
3) When set the external flash on auto zoom, some time will encounter under exposure. This is because of IR light reflection not accuracy? However, manage to recover when go to manual mode ( 24mm, 105mm etc )
4) External flash and body need calibration?
5) What mean by Fn buttom on external flash? No function when I pressed.
6) Felt that external flash is heavy and imbalance, can make our body horseshoe to crack? Is it need any external stand to support between body and external flash?
Have tried my flash at home last night. I notice that :
1) shuttle speed is fix at 1/125 when plug in external flash. Unable to manually change the shuttle speed. Is this normal?
yes. if u put ur flash in bounce mode.if fire straight then can raise until 1/4000 in HSS mode.
QUOTE
2) Will external flash follow body setting ( fill-flash , slow etc.. ) ?
i think so
QUOTE
3) When set the external flash on auto zoom, some time will encounter under exposure. This is because of IR light reflection not accuracy? However, manage to recover when go to manual mode ( 24mm, 105mm etc )
as what other sifus said, auto zoom only 90% accurate. u might need other accessories to help get ur exposure right. first is the AEL button, or use stofen or correct angle of bounce...etc....................
QUOTE
4) External flash and body need calibration?
u want calibrate what?no need la...
QUOTE
5) What mean by Fn buttom on external flash? No function when I pressed.
when u switch modes that time then got use lo...
QUOTE
6) Felt that external flash is heavy and imbalance, can make our body horseshoe to crack? Is it need any external stand to support between body and external flash?
if loose then got hear before....crack then......no...
QUOTE
7) Where can I get F58AM user manual ?
if u buy first hand ori f58..the manual comes in the box
isn't that external flash need to select wireless.. so others cannot choose..
slow flash just slow the shutter i guess.. u can get similar result if play with the shutter..
u select wireless only when u need the flash to be triggered wirelessly although ur flash still can be fired in wireless mode when u place the flash on the hot shoe.
Japanese manufacturer Rayqual has announced adapters for the Sony NEX-5 and NEX-3 interchangeable lens cameras to mount Nikon, Canon FD, Pentax and Leica lenses. Priced between ¥19,950 - ¥25,200 (~ US $210 -$275), the adapters will start shipping next month. The company already makes a selection of adapters for different systems including a range for Micro Four Thirds cameras.
NEX-5 with Canon MP-E 65 for macro user? eg: cjlai
u select wireless only when u need the flash to be triggered wirelessly although ur flash still can be fired in wireless mode when u place the flash on the hot shoe.
i don't have external flash so cannot try..
but let say if select 'fill-in' the flash pop up how? or is it disabled if slot in the external flash?
oh u meant no need to select off or anything.. just slot and good to go? i thought need to select wireless or something..
if put fill-flash and pop up the external flash goes to 'parit' edy..
err....well u need to on ur external flash also..and select flash mode la...cause u can off ur flash on the external flash while maintaining the AF-assist as well...
err....well u need to on ur external flash also..and select flash mode la...cause u can off ur flash on the external flash while maintaining the AF-assist as well...
oo.. later if got extra cash need to get one play²..
Im so sad to find out the shop in Pudu Plaza, Digitals Mania is selling Tokina 11-16 F2.8 sony mount at rm 2300 only ..some more FREE Octopus 1mm Ultra Slim HMC SUPER 77mm UV Filter.
I bought mine from Studio zaloon for rm 2450 + polariser filter rm 150.... tats a lot difference........
Im so sad to find out the shop in Pudu Plaza, Digitals Mania is selling Tokina 11-16 F2.8 sony mount at rm 2300 only ..some more FREE Octopus 1mm Ultra Slim HMC SUPER 77mm UV Filter.
I bought mine from Studio zaloon for rm 2450 + polariser filter rm 150.... tats a lot difference........
Im so sad to find out the shop in Pudu Plaza, Digitals Mania is selling Tokina 11-16 F2.8 sony mount at rm 2300 only ..some more FREE Octopus 1mm Ultra Slim HMC SUPER 77mm UV Filter.
I bought mine from Studio zaloon for rm 2450 + polariser filter rm 150.... tats a lot difference........
no point regretting it now bro...enjoy ur new gear...
i dont really simply haul haul like u all lor.... i need to weigh the needs for it 1st.. whether that piece of gear will be contributing any income or not...
i dont really simply haul haul like u all lor.... i need to weigh the needs for it 1st.. whether that piece of gear will be contributing any income or not...
haha. i think it will add another dimension to ur wedding shots IMO.
and i where got simply haul? i only have 2 lens lea. ><
@lwliam u mean the blue gradient of the sky? can i think.. but confirm cannot remove reflections la..
polarizers increase contrast where reflections exists... clouds, blue skies, water reflections, glass reflections, foliage.. to name a few... if u can find a way to duplicate these with a single image in PP, do let me know.. i'll pay you lunch, anywhere u want...
wah this thread can specialized on hauling lensbaby, G, FF, 70 400 new thread everyone semangat go hauling
btw some hauling i also planned to get soon, just need help abit to choose CPL either B+W or Pro-1D hoya or HD ?? (need slim slim one ) price wise and quality which one preferred?
This post has been edited by mastering89: Jun 17 2010, 12:16 AM
+1, same fate i wonder those always haul, is that you all print money at home? wahaha
some are blessed with no commitment + high income apa. Good for them. I can ogle too. My wifey also ask you always hang around the alphanatics wts thread. i say so at night can have a wet dream about it
some are blessed with no commitment + high income apa. Good for them. I can ogle too. My wifey also ask you always hang around the alphanatics wts thread. i say so at night can have a wet dream about it
den for student like me, even wan fund for a flash, also have to eat grass for whole semester.. hang there see also jealous..
QUOTE(Shah_15 @ Jun 17 2010, 12:52 AM)
guys, if i wanted to sell my a330 how much can i put the price on it?
rather have lost $ for depreciation, why don't you keep it? unless going upgrade la. i would say rm1100~1300
no fair la u people all got money.. look at my gear list. wanna puke and shit at the same time.
me more worse...i only have a550+kitlens 18-55...nothing else.. ..hope to get such present for bday..like a flash unit or a lens..even a cheap prime lens also can ..
Hehehe y everyone so gloomily feeling down for not hauling/owning lens/flash/other accs?
Remember, even kitlens can do great pictures when u use it properly with ur idea..
Everyone become gearheads od ah?
I'd seen people shoot at cola tin with big2 bokeh at the back..is that a picture? Ofcoz it is..but does that pic wins the heart of others?(I mean the crowd, not the gearheads lah)
My frens when they saw my bokeh n strobists pics they just smile But they wowed over my pics that I took when I go to mabul island.. The pics of the kids paddling in their small boat, the pics of the shells on the beach, whereas most of the pics (taken wif film camera) mostly is underexposed..
So I guess we can just allow ourselves to be just the gearhead, or the phototaker (not photographer); Or we can be both? Hehehe just sharing my POV only..
So I guess we can just allow ourselves to be just the gearhead, or the phototaker (not photographer); Or we can be both? Hehehe just sharing my POV only..
Part time gearhead can ? Its life's simple guilty pleasures. Like a wise lembu once said he inspires people to chase their wishlist dream Its a forum. People want to show off their latest acquisition,wishes and wallows comes in territory.
for me, i listed down the rig becoz for a reference, guidance and also to spark on the discussion, not solely for show off or what note.. if want to brag all the time better put the whole world on it..
Hi guys, need help. My Sony A200 18-70mm lens is making a stuttering sound, mcm gear rosak. And the AF is not functioning well. Why ah? sounds like the AF motor didn't functioning well
This post has been edited by nas06: Jun 17 2010, 11:30 AM
dropped edi~ the cheapest a550 + 1855 combo brand new is 2.4k~
Ok thn wat i saw consider normal 2nd hand market price is better save n buy new unit~~i though is cheap tht wat i saw :cry:the camera warranty until May 2011,Free Memory Card 4GB (MS PRO DUO) & Free FDA-MEIAM Magnifying eyepiece
This post has been edited by wp188: Jun 17 2010, 01:48 PM
Yeea i wanna to contact the seller n ask him highly nego~bcz i hope can gt it cheaper bit bcz gt nt much $ student mahhh~~condition can say 9.x/10 i saw the picture is a quite new camera...if body onli come v 1855lens?i think nt right?
This post has been edited by wp188: Jun 17 2010, 02:01 PM
May i know whats the difference between Tamron SP90 F2.8 and the F2.5 ? Other than the 2.8 is latest version right. But the F2.5 still can do auto focus right?
can link me a photo of the fisheye lensbaby? if murah i might haul next month.
actually its not a lens..omg i dunno how to explain...
as what i have said previously lensbaby is smtg like a lens inside a lens...so that 'inside' lens can be removed and change to other optics...the one i am aiming for is double glass optics..then there is wide angle and the fish eye optics..
aiya i also not really sure...wait till i get my hands on it..=D
May i know whats the difference between Tamron SP90 F2.8 and the F2.5 ? Other than the 2.8 is latest version right. But the F2.5 still can do auto focus right?
I only know SP90 F2.5 is 1:2 Macro while F2.8 is 1:1 and the older F2.5 has AF ...
@lwliam: i just started photography seriously less than a year ago, so i think a FF cam and me wont be meeting anytime soon... so APSC is for me now.. haha..... i saw sample photos of 1750 in dyxum and i feel its pretty sharp and the purple-ish hue is not so bad.
@takumicross: Definitely second-hand.. but most of us here buys second hand stuff coz first hand is just too expensive...
@fansoption: lol, uve been asking about that a few times.. haha... i think if FF camera u attach apsc lens, at wide end u can see some vignetting.. im not sure.. im just guessing.. and also FF cameras will detect DT lenses and reduce the image size to the crop version and only at 11-12MP. @zstan: OWH! so, the lensbaby is an adapter + glass? so mean if i get the adapter + fisheye glass.. next time i can just get the pinhole glass and replace with my fisheye glass whenever i want to?
This post has been edited by Mikeshashimi: Jun 17 2010, 07:03 PM
@lwliam: i just started photography seriously less than a year ago, so i think a FF cam and me wont be meeting anytime soon... so APSC is for me now.. haha..... i saw sample photos of 1750 in dyxum and i feel its pretty sharp and the purple-ish hue is not so bad.
@takumicross: Definitely second-hand.. but most of us here buys second hand stuff coz first hand is just too expensive...
@fansoption: lol, uve been asking about that a few times.. haha... i think if FF camera u attach apsc lens, at wide end u can see some vignetting.. im not sure.. im just guessing.. and also FF cameras will detect DT lenses and reduce the image size to the crop version and only at 11-12MP. @zstan: OWH! so, the lensbaby is an adapter + glass? so mean if i get the adapter + fisheye glass.. next time i can just get the pinhole glass and replace with my fisheye glass whenever i want to?
well, since u already know u dont need the longer reach... then might as well go for a faster lens.. always know your priority/style, compare lens of same type, try not to overlap your range in lenses..
well, since u already know u dont need the longer reach... then might as well go for a faster lens.. always know your priority/style, compare lens of same type, try not to overlap your range in lenses..
well... as u know i dont have a kitlens.. and im going to melaka next tuesday.. so.. cant be shooting with my 55200.. hence.... im sorta in a rush.. lol... maybe.... *cough*PTPTN*cough*
ahahaha..
and ive seen examples of 1750 in dyxum and im impressed with its sharpness and control of the fringing.
Joined: Mar 2005
From: ★MALAYSIA★ Status: Photographing
Helloo guys...havent posted here for quite a while..
guys and sifus... wanna ask.. noise at high ISO wise.. how high can the A850 go without having too much noise? and what is a good lens for it? 24-70? i've read that the 2470 has bad bokeh? is that right?
Q : which quality and creative style do I have to use to evaluate the color output of a lens ? Standard JPG ? or the RAW file ?
because I've heard many times about 'minotla color'... and I really want to see and compare it with other lenses.
Here's a shot from a lens that is reported to have Minolta colors - the 20mm f2.8
FYI, I shot in JPG and using Vivid settings.
No CPL and minor levels and curves PP editing done only.
QUOTE(alpha_company @ Jun 18 2010, 04:07 AM)
Helloo guys...havent posted here for quite a while..
guys and sifus... wanna ask.. noise at high ISO wise.. how high can the A850 go without having too much noise? and what is a good lens for it? 24-70? i've read that the 2470 has bad bokeh? is that right?
I can comfortably use up to ISO 1600 with no worries. ISO 3200 has more visible noise but still usable. Dunno about how high your noise tolerance is.
Rightfully, the red channel should max out the red channel only instead of picking up green. This explains the lesser color tones (e.g. Nikon has less differentiation in greens while Canon has less differentiation in reds compared to Sony.)
A bunch of colleagues of mine went to Broga hill with Nikons, and only the one person using Fujifilm Superia and a film camera got much better greens (you could see the different green tones.)
long long time ago~ i remember master albnok mentioned this b4~
and as for minolta color on old KM lens~ its the preference on the old minolta coating compare to the new sony coating~ its a subjective preference to my humble opinion~ but of coz newer coating and optics will improve on IQ, CA and etc generally~ same goes to diff coating from tamron and sigma~ just my 2 cents~ the rest need albnok to elaborate further~
long long time ago~ i remember master albnok mentioned this b4~
and as for minolta color on old KM lens~ its the preference on the old minolta coating compare to the new sony coating~ its a subjective preference to my humble opinion~ but of coz newer coating and optics will improve on IQ, CA and etc generally~ same goes to diff coating from tamron and sigma~ just my 2 cents~ the rest need albnok to elaborate further~
at the end of the day, best to bring our body to the shop, take a few test shots with different lenses, then go back and compare on-screen before deciding which colour is to our liking? since everyones taste is different..
if anyone has done that maybe can post up here la so we can see side-by-side what is tamron/sigma/minolta/zeiss colour.
yo! sunday go GT what lens should i bring 17-50 and 75-300 cukup? or add on 11-18?
don't think u really need wide. or maybe, u need the wide and not the mid range. lol. think of what u wanna shoot and just bring what u need. if have too many lens, u'll end up not using them, or u'll change the lens too often and miss great moments. learn just shoot only with what u have. bring less, shoot more
zstan : gorup shot of leng lui? mastering89 : thank for info signither : i want shoot japan girl and car but i using 2 body mah 1 17-50 one is 75-300 no need change lens lor
bring the 1118... since you're going into the pit.. take closeup shots of the car with the background, the car will pop out from the pic... group shots, blehh.. even a normal 18mm can do that...
example:
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
This post has been edited by lwliam: Jun 18 2010, 01:13 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(mastering89 @ Jun 18 2010, 12:57 PM)
zstan : tempting . i'm waiting for $$ to masuk first, then go Sony Center try test drive the NEX, then only decide
signither : DSLR FTW
fansoption : depends where you'll be sitting that day, if you have the pit pass then consider the 1750. But the wide i dont think is necessary
tested the NEX5 at sony roadshow at 1U last week~ the small grip is surprisingly comfy and firm in my big hand~ somehow it feels better than GF1 altho by looks of the NEX5 in pics isnt that promising for the grip~ image quality is up to apsc standard~ my only complain is the menu function which u need some time to get use to~ then it should be fine~ but hey~ its a outgoing stylo compact apsc camera on the go for casual activities~ so its definitely not the camera u looking for if u want handling and control like the dslr~
really disappointed with my A200 ISO performance ... :-(
Added on June 18, 2010, 2:03 pm
QUOTE(Gouki @ Jun 18 2010, 01:25 PM)
tested the NEX5 at sony roadshow at 1U last week~ the small grip is surprisingly comfy and firm in my big hand~ somehow it feels better than GF1 altho by looks of the NEX5 in pics isnt that promising for the grip~ image quality is up to apsc standard~ my only complain is the menu function which u need some time to get use to~ then it should be fine~ but hey~ its a outgoing stylo compact apsc camera on the go for casual activities~ so its definitely not the camera u looking for if u want handling and control like the dslr~
Is there any regular/conventional user interface for advanced user ? OR we cannot change it ?
This post has been edited by gizmo_pony: Jun 18 2010, 02:03 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(gizmo_pony @ Jun 18 2010, 01:58 PM)
really disappointed with my A200 ISO performance ... :-(
Added on June 18, 2010, 2:03 pm
Is there any regular/conventional user interface for advanced user ? OR we cannot change it ?
well~ the thing about NEX is they have no more than 5 buttons and a dial~ so even to select PASM modes are done in a virtual menu to imitate the mode dials~ then in the shooting liveview menu the dial act as a shutter speed or aperture dial and etc~ its just a matter of getting use to it since its such a compact stylo little device~
a200? try shoot in RAW and convert into jpeg in PC~ much better iso noise~ if not upgrade lor~ like me~ i used to be a200 user oso~
well~ the thing about NEX is they have no more than 5 buttons and a dial~ so even to select PASM modes are done in a virtual menu to imitate the mode dials~ then in the shooting liveview menu the dial act as a shutter speed or aperture dial and etc~ its just a matter of getting use to it since its such a compact stylo little device~
a200? try shoot in RAW and convert into jpeg in PC~ much better iso noise~ if not upgrade lor~ like me~ i used to be a200 user oso~
yup, done that. still cannot control the noise lee feel like jumping to ...
you are using A700 now ? so you really can see the improvement ya compared to A200 in terms of ISO noise ?
Joined: Jan 2003
From: KL/PJ/USJ/Puchong/KKB, Sel.
QUOTE(gizmo_pony @ Jun 18 2010, 02:20 PM)
yup, done that. still cannot control the noise lee feel like jumping to ...
you are using A700 now ? so you really can see the improvement ya compared to A200 in terms of ISO noise ?
of coz~ even at 1600~ the iso on a700 is useable~ but compare to a550~ the a550 high iso still better~ but at low iso~ i prefer the a700~ besides~ i love the a700 more coz its the handling and controls that no other camera come close~ very similar to the a900 feel~ well not exactly but very good feel lar~ the alpha quicknavi is something not to be miss~ but one thing~ nothing beat a200 CCD sensor at iso 100~ still the best and clean pixel u get if u pixel peep lar~
of coz~ even at 1600~ the iso on a700 is useable~ but compare to a550~ the a550 high iso still better~ but at low iso~ i prefer the a700~ besides~ i love the a700 more coz its the handling and controls that no other camera come close~ very similar to the a900 feel~ well not exactly but very good feel lar~ the alpha quicknavi is something not to be miss~ but one thing~ nothing beat a200 CCD sensor at iso 100~ still the best and clean pixel u get if u pixel peep lar~
IC, thanks gouki for the info
desperately need a new body anybody knows where can get dslr using 0% easypayment eh ?
@gizmo_pony say only 0% easy payment, they still charge you (processing fee 4~5% + credit card charge 2~3%) and some they absorb partial charge, but you buy with the retail price.
i am one of the victim. buying a200 at 1499(mark down price) + 5% processing fee for installment although just merely rm75, but when you buy higher end body, all thing become different
@gizmo_pony say only 0% easy payment, they still charge you (processing fee 4~5% + credit card charge 2~3%) and some they absorb partial charge, but you buy with the retail price.
i am one of the victim. buying a200 at 1499(mark down price) + 5% processing fee for installment although just merely rm75, but when you buy higher end body, all thing become different
thanks for letting me know, I really thought that 0% means 0 without any other hidden fees/charges
Added on June 18, 2010, 2:54 pm
QUOTE(jedi_master @ Jun 18 2010, 02:41 PM)
different RAW editors also affect the amount of noise. can experiment around a bit too see first b4 jumping
tried using LR beta 2, the result is quite OK for ISO1600 but not really good for larger size printing ...
This post has been edited by gizmo_pony: Jun 18 2010, 02:54 PM
well~ what u see in a550 and NEX~ expect much better apsc sensor on the a7xx~
Soon not only A7xx ... Sony will also introduce new series of pellix cameras in budget price with around 10fps per second just electronic viewfinder ;D
boring day. trying play with water. didnt use flash as at the moment tengah charge battery [a350 | sal16105 | McD Coke Glass | 1/500s | f/13 | ISO 800 ]
Joined: Jul 2006
From: Sabah, Sandakan Status: Photography Mood ON
Hello all sony maniac~ hehe i have some question wanna ask, 1. i using A380, if i using Sigma/Tamron lens 17-75 with macro is it 1:1 macro? its a nice lens or not? 2. for A380 maximum ISO is how much? kinda lot noise during night shoot. 3. how to check shutter count? 4. a camera quality getting worst when how much shutter count?? 5. there are no 49mm close up filter?
Hello all sony maniac~ hehe i have some question wanna ask, 1. i using A380, if i using Sigma/Tamron lens 17-75 with macro is it 1:1 macro? its a nice lens or not? 2. for A380 maximum ISO is how much? kinda lot noise during night shoot. 3. how to check shutter count? 4. a camera quality getting worst when how much shutter count?? 5. there are no 49mm close up filter?
1. 17-75 =O? Didn't heard that lens before, about macro magnification most of the Zoom Lens with macro ability usually has around 1:4 ~1:4.5 Magnification expect long focal zoom like 70-300 macro series would have 1:2 Macro Magnification
2. A380 has max ISO of 3200
3. I'm not sure but you can look at the playback display where it has the number of many you take
4. Not sure for this either xD
5. For 49mm, you can get the Raynox 250 (compatible from 49mm-67mm) Macro filter
tmj : for 49mm filter thread usually only have UV, but i saw someone selling Hoya +4 close up at Photomalaysia before. for me i just use step up filter 49--> 55mm as 55mm easier to find filter
Well from the specs, it mentions the lens have 1:2.3 magnification which is good enough macro capability for still live and flower but downside for the lens is the aperture of F2.8 only limits around 17mm~20mm?
I think you can try to research it at Dyxum.com about the performance of this lens
This post has been edited by wingster: Jun 18 2010, 08:57 PM
achew : actually not cheaper, some are more expensive than here. like if you can zoom into the pic you can see the used CZ1635 is sold for about 200k yen (near rm7000). the one's that are cheap are probably old lenses like minolta, old tamron, old sigma. but i'm quite lucky got to buy a lens for much much cheaper price , quite new used for 1 week only the buyer made review of the lens then sold it off. But if you're looking for body , damn cheap , a550 used for 50kyen, a700 used for 50kyen...
THere are 2 types of electronic goods sold in japan, Local and International. Local ones are cheaper but the interface, language all in Japanese. The international ones the price are quite expensive, but still the warranty only cover in Japan.
Joined: Jul 2006
From: Sabah, Sandakan Status: Photography Mood ON
yeah i hv thinking of sigma17-70 and tamron 17-50 2.8f, but i wanna know the near range comparing sigma and tamron which 1 nicer? i mean the macro effect
technically, if you do the math, the 17-50 2.8 is just like a 24-70 2.8 on FF, but instead its on an apsc, it gives the same field of view respectively...
if u want macro, go get a proper macro lens... or a tele + raynox would suffice if you're just starting out
a better fix aperture on the longer end , the tamron 1750 offer better bokeh and is a faster lens. Also it is sharper at open wide than the sigma1770 if u refer to my pic.
But u trying to get lens for macro or potrait or walkaround?
tmj: if how also u wan ask which one nicer (which i dont know if u know what you are really looking for or not since u ask this Q), then i'd say go for the tamron...
Joined: Jul 2006
From: Sabah, Sandakan Status: Photography Mood ON
seem everyone choosing tamron too... hmmm because normally i like to shoot people and foods, so gv me some idea im a newbie =D for bokeh a people use how much aperture nicer? because i saw some ppl shoot totally focus the whole people and behind totally bokeh, but i tried with my 50mm1.8f, but seem cant get the whole body of ppl. and need to walk too far for it
you're using a 50mm la bro... u also know how to say 50mm ma.. u take your kitlens, twist to 50mm and see, same view also wad... if u knew u want to take full body portraits, then u shouldve saved on the 50mm and bought the 28mm instead la..
hey guys, first time using adobe light room. still not sure bout the settings, just simply played with it. I edited the photo below but the background is very grainy, any idea wat cause this?
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «
seem everyone choosing tamron too... hmmm because normally i like to shoot people and foods, so gv me some idea im a newbie =D for bokeh a people use how much aperture nicer? because i saw some ppl shoot totally focus the whole people and behind totally bokeh, but i tried with my 50mm1.8f, but seem cant get the whole body of ppl. and need to walk too far for it
betul what lwliam say but if u like shoot people and like bokeh and also love to shoot food, the tamron is best choice . f2.8 have quite nice bokeh. faster shutter gain if to shoot food in restaurant ( usually light is not good ). the min focus distance is quite good also
lwliam... i just join photography world mah T_T many things still dont understand
u bought the 50mm together when you bought your camera? of coz if there's no other ppl who say about the 50mm, you wouldnt know about it right? its usually better for beginners to really fully learn their cameras with the kitlens 1st... but if u got it at a cheap price, then its a different story la... anyhow, slowly learn, play more with it, you'll get the hang of it
Joined: Jul 2006
From: Sabah, Sandakan Status: Photography Mood ON
because i gift the camera to my gf and get that lens at rm400, that time i really dont know anythings bout camera, totally 0 experience, then now seem my gf lazy to capture pics and i catching up learn and learn photography, actually 50mm1.8f use to shoot wat better? wanna learn learn =D
seem everyone choosing tamron too... hmmm because normally i like to shoot people and foods, so gv me some idea im a newbie =D for bokeh a people use how much aperture nicer? because i saw some ppl shoot totally focus the whole people and behind totally bokeh, but i tried with my 50mm1.8f, but seem cant get the whole body of ppl. and need to walk too far for it
so, actually u want bokeh shots or u want full body? give some, take some.. sometimes, u cant have the best of both worlds.. teach u a trick.. use your 55-200, stand further away to include the whole body into the frame with focal length around 100-150mm.. dont care about the aperture 1st, open it as wide as it can go.. then shoot... there u go, nice bokeh... go try it
im a newbie =D for bokeh a people use how much aperture nicer? because i saw some ppl shoot totally focus the whole people and behind totally bokeh, but i tried with my 50mm1.8f, but seem cant get the whole body of ppl. and need to walk too far for it
from these it sounds like u need more readings..understand what aperture/shutter/iso does...n set the them according to achieve what u have in your mind..
maybe u can do some simple trail&error to prove the theories u got from the reading..it makes u understand them better too..
Heavy men my bagpack, bcos i bring 2 body haha , 50mm need or not leh?
see, that's what i mean you will learn what to bring and what not to bring... photography is all learning from experience.. once u know its not good for you, u will not do it again...
u can forget the a200 la, keep it safely at home.. no point... the way i see it, u wont be needing it.. 50mm, how much is it going to cost you in weight? bring or not, its not going affect the weight much...
QUOTE(tmj @ Jun 18 2010, 10:47 PM)
because i gift the camera to my gf and get that lens at rm400, that time i really dont know anythings bout camera, totally 0 experience, then now seem my gf lazy to capture pics and i catching up learn and learn photography, actually 50mm1.8f use to shoot wat better? wanna learn learn =D
50mm, normally ppl will use to shoot half body portraits, detail shots of places, products (in fact i shoot ALL my product shots with my 50mm).. its a very versatile lens in a tiny package
because i gift the camera to my gf and get that lens at rm400, that time i really dont know anythings bout camera, totally 0 experience, then now seem my gf lazy to capture pics and i catching up learn and learn photography, actually 50mm1.8f use to shoot wat better? wanna learn learn =D
other than potraiture and product shoot. try google for shaped light bokeh... for sure u will love it
50mm, normally ppl will use to shoot half body portraits, detail shots of places, products (in fact i shoot ALL my product shots with my 50mm).. its a very versatile lens in a tiny package
hehe, some people treat the 50mm as a cheap toy, for me the 50mm still works good, not as bad as what others said.
@tmj if you want just a blurred background behind your subject. you seriously need a telephoto lens, although DoF are affected by many factors, but focal length is most cheap upgrade (rather choosing upgrade sensor to full-frame/big aperture gun)
bring only laaaaaaaa... why ask so many times? got use then good la, no use then next time smarter edi lor..... better than reach there d, then got great chance to use, but didnt bring...
i agree. is depend how you think you want to compose your pic with that particular time. lets say, when you see the scene but you face limitation at 17mm and there is no place you can step behind, then you will miss your 11mm
Q : guys, as you have already known, the NEX-3 can take 720p video only compared to the NEX-5 which can take 1080p... what actually makes this difference ? Is it hardware-related or simply a software/firmware limitation ?
I asking behalf of my friend... He wanna go to Sepang but dunno what's the price...
if im not mistaken RM200 is the package price for the Grandstand and Pitwalkabout pass the Grandstand ticket is only RM100, cant go take pics of the showgirls , unless u have 500mm f8 reflex
if im not mistaken RM200 is the package price for the Grandstand and Pitwalkabout pass the Grandstand ticket is only RM100, cant go take pics of the showgirls , unless u have 500mm f8 reflex
Added on June 19, 2010, 10:20 pmtomorrow night only upload , bcos some shot i focus wrong no the girl sharp is the car damn i 1st time use my tamron lens and hahaha tomorrow go again and shoot
This post has been edited by fansoption: Jun 19 2010, 10:20 PM
halo guys....long time ever lurk here..anyway i have some problem with my A350 nowadays...
my preview screen always stick with dust these days after u have my shooting session outside...u just ask the shop to clean for me yesterday for rm30...today i went out for shooting again and there is tiny hair and dusts in my preview screen again..it wont affect my images but when im viewing(either it is ovf or liveview, ill see lots of dusts and hair)..and its quite disturbing ..anyone have any idea how to clean it myself??it is such a waste/..i just spend rm30 to clean it yesterday and dusts went in again just now...
and any way to prevent such things happen..it only happen this few days where im shooting during my vacation in sarawak....
This post has been edited by yfchin2: Jun 20 2010, 04:48 PM
yfchin, if thats the case, the dust you're seeing is either on the mirror or the opaque screen right above the mirror, since it can be seen both during liveview and using the ovf. U can see it with bare eyes, using a blower should do the trick. Avoid changing lens in dusty areas outside to avoid problems like these.
yfchin, if thats the case, the dust you're seeing is either on the mirror or the opaque screen right above the mirror, since it can be seen both during liveview and using the ovf. U can see it with bare eyes, using a blower should do the trick. Avoid changing lens in dusty areas outside to avoid problems like these.
ok i might get a blower to blow it..but where to blow..is it the mirror that i can see after i detach the lens?? and another thing is i never change any lens this few days but still dusts went inside...is it usual for this to happen??or i should ask sony to check on my dslr???
ok i might get a blower to blow it..but where to blow..is it the mirror that i can see after i detach the lens?? and another thing is i never change any lens this few days but still dusts went inside...is it usual for this to happen??or i should ask sony to check on my dslr???
the first page sifu albnok got post video on blowing dust. probably the dust masuk when the last time you change the lens. try to take pic with small aperture f/16 > f/22 and zoom in the pic. if got dust there means probably dust inside at the sensor or sometimes at the lens also IINM. blow blow
i dunno why suddenly got this feeling to get potrait lens , either 50mm 1.4 , samyang 85mm or siggy 50mm 1.4(probably not) or sp90(potrait + macro) . what other selection of lens suitable aa?? fast aperture ones, gila kena poison see that bokeh 50mm 1.0 L at everyday pic thread
f/1.0 rich man's toy la. I find it no point la. I'd buy it coz i can afford to, not coz i need it.
Yes, the mirror that u can see once u detach the lens, not the one behind it (not the video in 1st page, that is the sensor). It might be due to ur 1st rm30 servicing did not do a good job, they blew away the hair and dust, but they did not drop out from the camera body, so when u used the camera again, the mirror movement creates some wind to blow around the cavity, the hair and dust got lifted up and stuck back to the mirror again. Always use ur blower with the camera opening faced downwards, so the dust will drop out. Not adviced to bring ur camera back to the shop again, basic servicing also dunno how to do, i wouldnt trust them.
hey today i browse one shop at mines selling a500 at rm2899 + 2 lens one is 18-55 the other one i forgotten but it's zoom type lens, i think it's 55-200. Body made in japan, lens made in china & thailand. It also include 4gb memory, tripod, bag, screen protector & cleaner kit. It's a good deal?
This post has been edited by vexus: Jun 20 2010, 07:47 PM
Joined: Jan 2003
From: Incheon, Korea.. currently in Miri, Soviet Sarawak
QUOTE(lwliam @ Jun 20 2010, 07:44 PM)
f/1.0 rich man's toy la. I find it no point la. I'd buy it coz i can afford to, not coz i need it.
Yes, the mirror that u can see once u detach the lens, not the one behind it (not the video in 1st page, that is the sensor). It might be due to ur 1st rm30 servicing did not do a good job, they blew away the hair and dust, but they did not drop out from the camera body, so when u used the camera again, the mirror movement creates some wind to blow around the cavity, the hair and dust got lifted up and stuck back to the mirror again. Always use ur blower with the camera opening faced downwards, so the dust will drop out. Not adviced to bring ur camera back to the shop again, basic servicing also dunno how to do, i wouldnt trust them.
hahaha willy, sometimes i dunno whats the fuss about those lens with bigger then F1.4... someday if i am rich, i wont even bother to buy a F1.0, i buy a F1.4, open up the aperture and throw it out.... then i got a constant F0.7... come fight la... LOL (must be the coffee talking)
btw i checked for the kwanon f1.2 lens is rm4.5k , f1.0 is rare so i cant find the price. dunno how much la that person bought . found one link in fb bidding for 18k, dunno for real or not
ieR : haha, cute ya. nope not my cat. kucing always lepak near my room at campus. we always panggil him si gemok, but now not so fat already, semester break no one provide him food .
but i would prefer seeing the whole moth without the wing cropped.
hhahaha.. no other lens to use that time... and i tried my best to get the shadow as clear as possible.. placing my flash at my left hand side... and asking my GF to hold white card behind it. haha.. my back pain already lying down on the floor.. somemore i takut the moth suddenly fly to my face. haha.
and also... i tried to get the whole moth also.. but the tile lines on the floor seemed too distracting.. so i had to composed it this way.
hhahaha.. no other lens to use that time... and i tried my best to get the shadow as clear as possible.. placing my flash at my left hand side... and asking my GF to hold white card behind it. haha.. my back pain already lying down on the floor.. somemore i takut the moth suddenly fly to my face. haha.
and also... i tried to get the whole moth also.. but the tile lines on the floor seemed too distracting.. so i had to composed it this way.
and heres the shot i just shot just now at the little Gig... i had to pump the noise... and im a noob at events and portrait of human beings.. lol.. not really my thang.
but here is how u salvage noisy and lousy photos..
Jun 16 2010, 03:06 PM, updated 16y ago
- A200, A300, A350
Quote
)
0.1336sec
0.52
6 queries
GZIP Disabled