So it's for Diesel or petrol? you mean the zinc will slip pass the piston ring and enter the combustion chamber then ruin the catalytic converter? I will try out on my next oil change. thanks.

personally, i would steer clear of it. i mean, it is meant for diesel engine for a reason, right?

unless you're just using it as a flushing method, then yeah thats fine. however for normal usage, using engine oil meant for diesel engines, you're probably looking into long term engine damage (seals in particular).

Yeah. I thought of that too. TBH i knew Delo from victor long time ago and he highly recommends it on diesel engines since its cheap and good. Never cross my mind someone would use it on petrol engines. I'll see how it goes later lah. Thanks of the reminder. its all in the effort to find the best lub oil

aye so long you are clear at what you're doing that is fine, its up to a person's preference at the end of the day.
hopefully nothing bad happens

do update us on the outcome should you decide to go for it

See the specification of Delo 400, it's compatible to use in Petrol engine aswell. Used it once and it feels heavy in my car, maybe previously I'm with xw30 oil though.

Petro Canada Duron E(mineral group II+)[can you find any group II+ in Malaysia for mineral?] it is mineral but performance and VI are like the synthetic oil....

proven as many of my friend achieve 10000km-20000km OCI.....

good High Detergent oil??simply go for Heavy Duty Engine Oil as their additive for Detergent, Zinc and other additive are slightly HIGHER than normal PCMO....

another brand to consider are Valvoline Premium Blue....also proven on many car,SUV like Caldina, Wish, Estima, Alphard and many more.....


as long as there is API S* standard, then the oil are usable on gasolin engine...

sarjantulang

kindly enlighten me regarding this Lexus oil ... does it have anything to do with Toyota/Lexus brand name?

i drive AE92 with Blacktop 20v. i just had the engine's first oil change a few days ago and used shell helix hx7 10w40 (previously it had motul turbolight in it after the engine swap).

i heard a lot about 20v owners experiencing loud valve noise when using thinner oil. some even recommended 20w. any issue with yours? my engine is still healthy though.

quick googling:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1247170/all

http://www.mycarforum.com/index.php?showtopic=2660082

http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/107912..._MOTOR_OIL.html

my opinions/summary:
- refined/blended in saudi arabia that isnt from reputable company?
- *only/apparently* licensed by toyota?
- rm120 for full syn while most if not all good/performance semi syn already cost that much while full syn cost almost/more than twice as much?

personally, i would stay away from it

why not give liqui moly SS engine oil with MOS2 additive a try? while it isn't exactly a top performance engine oil, it definitely is one of the best when it comes to dealing with engine NVH.

btw, how was motul compared to shell helix?

Almost everyone in my circle of Toyota friends use Motul (either 4100 turbolight or 6100 synergy). As for me I don't quite feel any difference because I'm still trying to get the hang of the feel of 4AGE (Toyota newbie).
I think it should be okay though.

If it was B-series Honda I could definitely tell the difference between Idemitsu, Castrol or Shell of different grades. Last time I regularly use Idemitsu 15w40 for my previous B16A. One time I had Shell Helix HX5 in my B16A (just for the sake of trying ... VTEC sometimes didn't engage and engine felt heavy.

i see. well if it helps make you decide, i am driving a 12+ years old proton iswara. if an engine oil could make a difference to an aged old local "potong" like mine, i am quite confident it will to yours as well

if you dont mind taking a leap of faith, why not give LM SS xw40 or even xw30 a try?

So far we have the usuals (shell/petronas/castrol/elf/nasa/idemitsu/toyota/honda) here, and motul, m7, hks, pennzoil, etc. and everything else usually need to outsource from somewhere else. have never seen liquimoly over here.

quite limited choice

the "usual" aka mainstream are generally sub par compared to the more "never heard before" performance/branded lubricants.

for example there are liqui moly, torco, redline, motul (yes motul are also amongst the top), chemlube/amsoil etc

if you're serious about this, i suggest reading up this thread:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/2072678

for my liqui moly review:
http://forum.lowyat.net/topic/1764127?author=Quazacolt
(yes seller thread btw)

hv u try Blitz S2 5W40 Fully Syn engine oil? im using it at my new model estima 3.5cc....so far so good

Motul i only use the Dot4 and RBF series brake fluid only....

u should try... i myself using Liqui Moly... and boy was i surprise for the 1st time when i use it.... car feels lighter, reduce noise sufficiently.... can go faster.... now i love driving my kancil than before...

I'm curious to know how does Shell's "fully-synthetic grade" engine-oil compares to Liqui-Moly/Torco's "semi-synthetic grade" engine-oil...? (In-terms of protection & longetivity/resilience/endurance...?)

If anyone have any idea, it will be good.


An an aside, I've been using mineral-grade engine-oil all this while without experiencing any performance-related issues at all; the car still runs ever smooth, strong, & responsive at idle, cruising, & moving up to higher RPM levels.

I always go for an oil-change every 3000KM or 3-months interval at the very longest (on average) - as long as the car have been used adequately in that length of time. The oil is cheap (but good), and it doesn't cost much to do closer OCIs.

If I use fully-synthetic engine-oil (the mainstream ones), I will also not prolong the OCI for too long... (Perhaps every 5000KM OCI...) It will still be more affordable & safe compared to opting for really expensive premium branded FS engine-oils and opting for really long OCIs...


I will be using FS engine-oil for more engine protection (from the more-affordable mainstream brands) in this coming oil-change. (Just for revving my engine pass 3K RPM + and see how it goes... "Going to miss this old car soon, so I would really like to see it's potential/power that it will be capable of on the road, for the very 1st time actually, as I have been driving really gently all this while... )

BTW, I just feel safer sticking to xW - 40 (as the lowest-viscosity rating) for this old/heavy engine. (I'm just afraid that xW- 30 might be "too thin", with film not strong enough to hold-up the heavy internal shaft float-bearings; which will result in engine wear-and-tear & damage from metal to metal friction...)

This post has been edited by kEITh_22b: Feb 28 2012, 04:50 AM

if you're not really aiming for long OCI, better branded semi syn will serve your purpose much better, especially when it comes to high revving

I have a few friends using the lexus oil in their 20V, seems no issue also... But all of us OCI quite early due to cheap oil, we mostly change it around 5000~7000km.

I believe the loud valve noise is the VVT sound.. Some of my 20V friends already change to TOM's aftermatket cam pulley which replace the VVT and totally no sound at all.. Mine 1 still intact, but previosly maybe i put Bardahl 1 fuel treatment be4, the ticking sound seems soften a bit and still acceptable to me laa.. Even i change from 10W-40 to 5W-40 it seems better.. (maybe the lub is more easy to flow into the VVT?)

What i felt after changing to thinner fully syn oil is that when the VVT kick in, you wont felt a sudden jerk but felt the engine more smooth..

By the way, dont use the wrong oil filter.. for 4A-GE, you will need to use the longer version of YZZE2 (Camry 2.0/2.4 AZ engine oil filter if not mistaken) filter and not the short 1..

Some info sharing, If you manage to get the original manual which i have, the recommended oil for 4A-GE is 5W-30 in Japan... While manual gear oil is 75W-90 GL4.. Auto if not mistaken mostly is DEXTRON 2/3 and not the newest 4! (Take out the Auto oil level indicator and u will see it..)

I have tested 5W-30 (Bardahl semi-syn) before, and the oil thin even faster that why i decided to use 10W-40 (Elf semi-syn) then now using 5W-40 (Lexus fully-syn).. But personally, if ur engine is still new and no issue, 5W-30 really is the best.. Pick-up & VVT kick in really very smooth & light..

This post has been edited by littlefire: Feb 28 2012, 08:51 AM

Just recently I brought one liter of FS engine-oil (Shell brand) for really cheap (I was really surprised)... (In fact it was so cheap, it begin to make all of my previous mineral based engine-oils seems really expensive...)

I certainly think that FS-grade engine-oil is definitely more resilient as compared to mineral-based engine-oils... (It will be able to withstand higher sheer pressures inside the engine, for one... And I'm planning to rev high for a video recording, so FS would be really ideal/suitable for maximum engine protection... )

In addition, opting for a shorter OCI shouldn't be an issue considering the low price I could get for those "mainstream" FS oils (1 liter of Shell FS = RM40+ only)... (I can make it @ 3500 - 4000KM OCI without any problems at all.)


I think Liquid-Moly/Torco/Red-line/Amsoil SS/FS oils would be very expensive. (Which will not justify any OCI below 5000KM I reckon... Or else it would be like throwing money away... ) Again, it is for those people who would like to go for longer OCIs, then that would be ideal.


P.S., I think going for really "cheap" FS oils and changing it like mineral-oil looks to be really ideal indeed for maximum engine well-being, as well as for your wallet...


(See this thread again much later on. ^^)

This post has been edited by kEITh_22b: Feb 28 2012, 08:56 AM

not really bro, the main/most obvious benefits of full syn is the much lower winter viscosity rating and better cold starts (which is, worthless to our country to be very frank) and the fact that the oil base properties degrade/breaks down at a MUCH slower rate (hence the over 10k km OCI)

are you looking forward to long OCI? no? then forget cheap full syn. get better semi syn to serve your purpose.
want protection? i highly recommend LM MOS2, want to high/hard rev? i recommend torco.

if you damn rich, i dare you to stick with your full syn, go 1-2k, do full flush, and try out any of the top branded/expensive semi syn mentioned before
and just FYI, those semi syn can go 6-7k (again, if rich, stick to 5k, no need to go earlier than that) WITHOUT its oil properties degrading or even your engine feeling heavier/sluggish. i didnt do oil property test no doubt, however if my engine arent feeling heavy after 5-6k km driving, i am convinced enough

at the end of the day, their brand are at stake, and the competition is pretty tough. its a very valid "what you pay is what you get" deal.
hell, the way you're OCI'ing your FS, semi syn (RM110-120 for 4 litres) is ACTUALLY even cheaper

I'm using the short YZZE2, damn it... i only remember the part number but totally forgotten about the short and tall version!